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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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 Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:09 am Post subject: |
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| ataraxia wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
And then we finally got around to changing the heater box/muffler gaskets and found that one of the gaskets just crumbled when I tried to slide it back and the ring it was mated to was all distorted
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Yeah...once they get hot, they're shot. One time use items. |
True! I just never had one disintegrate as I touched it. The other side came off fully intact. Then again, I'm not really familiar with these fiber gaskets. Am I going to need asbestos decontamination?
Found a slight issue when sealing up one side with the new metal gaskets....the flared end of the muffler is slightly misshapen in places so the clamp doesn't seat perfectly. I suspect this may have contributed to why we started getting leaks in the first place. |
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Mike Fisher
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Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:25 am Post subject: |
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I believe I would drive it to a Muffler Shop & have the 4 flanges welded on. Using nylock type lock nuts would keep them from vibrating loose.
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jadney
Samba Member
Joined: January 13, 2005
Posts: 263
Location: Madison, WI, USA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Found a slight issue when sealing up one side with the new metal gaskets....the flared end of the muffler is slightly misshapen in places so the clamp doesn't seat perfectly. I suspect this may have contributed to why we started getting leaks in the first place. |
Any time you install a muffler you need to check those flares and straighten them. They are almost always deformed in shipping, storage, and handling, but they can be easily bent back into shape with a decent pair of pliers. Once the muffler is in place, this is much harder, but I suspect you can do it, but a lot depends on where the problem is.
As for getting the donuts to seal, the problem often is that the HEs have rusted away under the area where you expect to seal, so they are smaller in diameter. That often makes sealing impossible. You can get around this by cutting some bits of light alum sheet or heavy alum foil to wrap around the HE pipe to make up the difference. IF you do this carefully, you can make this work.
The welded flanges sound like a nice solution, but they require carefull cuting of the next muffler you install. OTOH, alum sheet is fiddly but it's cheap and it works.
Regarding wire #19, there's nothing wrong with the wire, but you need to crimp a good connector to it and then MAKE SURE that you're not depending on the connector to support the weight of either wiring harness. Use a cable tie, or several cable ties, to bind the 2 harnesses together so that the #19 connectors only have to support their own weight. The fact that your photo shows one wire fallen 4" lower than the other indicates that you had been depending on that wire and those connectors to support the lower harness. Given time, heat, and vibration, that weight will eventually pull apart any connection. If you look at the VW manual photos, you'll see a factory installed cable tie around that connection and the harnesses, taking all the stress off those connections.
As an alternative, I guess you could splice an extension to the body side wire, so that the FI harness could lie down on the engine with #19 always slack.
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Jim Adney
50+ years of VW Type 3 experience
Specializing in VW Type 3 parts and service |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 4:11 am Post subject: |
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| jadney wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| Found a slight issue when sealing up one side with the new metal gaskets....the flared end of the muffler is slightly misshapen in places so the clamp doesn't seat perfectly. I suspect this may have contributed to why we started getting leaks in the first place. |
Any time you install a muffler you need to check those flares and straighten them. They are almost always deformed in shipping, storage, and handling, but they can be easily bent back into shape with a decent pair of pliers. Once the muffler is in place, this is much harder, but I suspect you can do it, but a lot depends on where the problem is.
As for getting the donuts to seal, the problem often is that the HEs have rusted away under the area where you expect to seal, so they are smaller in diameter. That often makes sealing impossible. You can get around this by cutting some bits of light alum sheet or heavy alum foil to wrap around the HE pipe to make up the difference. IF you do this carefully, you can make this work.
The welded flanges sound like a nice solution, but they require carefull cuting of the next muffler you install. OTOH, alum sheet is fiddly but it's cheap and it works.
Regarding wire #19, there's nothing wrong with the wire, but you need to crimp a good connector to it and then MAKE SURE that you're not depending on the connector to support the weight of either wiring harness. Use a cable tie, or several cable ties, to bind the 2 harnesses together so that the #19 connectors only have to support their own weight. The fact that your photo shows one wire fallen 4" lower than the other indicates that you had been depending on that wire and those connectors to support the lower harness. Given time, heat, and vibration, that weight will eventually pull apart any connection. If you look at the VW manual photos, you'll see a factory installed cable tie around that connection and the harnesses, taking all the stress off those connections.
As an alternative, I guess you could splice an extension to the body side wire, so that the FI harness could lie down on the engine with #19 always slack. |
Hi Jim, nice to see you back here! Both of us have been swallowed up by work recently so we haven't updated our progress on either of these two "pending" issues but here goes:
The new exhaust gaskets and the Permatex we've put on them are doing okay but aren't perfect. There've only been a few pops out of the exhaust in the last few weeks. However, there's still a slight chirping sound when accelerating and pushing the rpms in 2nd and 3rd. The situation is good enough that I don't think we're going to take any more action until it gets worse. Of course with our luck that'll suddenly happen in the middle of February during a cold snap, but so it goes.
As for wire #19, we were able to get a good enough length of it stripped and connected it to an extension via a metal butt connector which we sealed up up with heat shrink. It's long enough so that it's not bearing any weight at all and it seems like it'll be a durable fix.
Our next order of business is figuring out how to tighten up one of our pop out windows......the part that's affixed to the glass (the round disc on the outside of the window that is attached to the opening mechanism) is loose and that window rattles like crazy when open and we've taken to keeping it closed. There's doesn't look to be any way to tighten this connection at all short of maybe putting a new gasket between the disc and the glass on the outside. Does anyone have any wisdom about how to fix this? I didn't find anything on the forums. |
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jadney
Samba Member
Joined: January 13, 2005
Posts: 263
Location: Madison, WI, USA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 5:57 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Our next order of business is figuring out how to tighten up one of our pop out windows......the part that's affixed to the glass (the round disc on the outside of the window that is attached to the opening mechanism) is loose and that window rattles like crazy when open and we've taken to keeping it closed. There's doesn't look to be any way to tighten this connection at all short of maybe putting a new gasket between the disc and the glass on the outside. Does anyone have any wisdom about how to fix this? I didn't find anything on the forums. |
Sounds like one of the original rubber gaskets has deteriorated and fallen out. You might find something in the plumbing dept at your local hardware store. McMaster-Carr probably has rubber washers in a number of sizes, but you'd have to buy enough to supply the rest of us as well. I just checked there and they have a number of sizes, all 1/8" thick.
There's also a company called Bokers that sells only washers. They'll make anything in the way of a flat washer, but they really want you to buy a large quantity if it's not a stock item. It's possible that they have something in stock that they could sell only 100 of.
Keep in mind that there are 2 washers in your windows. One is flat, but the other is a washer with a sleeve. I don't remember which is on the outside. It would probably be possible to replace both with 2 flat washers and a bit of plastic tubing.
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Jim Adney
50+ years of VW Type 3 experience
Specializing in VW Type 3 parts and service |
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:32 am Post subject: |
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| jadney wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| Our next order of business is figuring out how to tighten up one of our pop out windows......the part that's affixed to the glass (the round disc on the outside of the window that is attached to the opening mechanism) is loose and that window rattles like crazy when open and we've taken to keeping it closed. There's doesn't look to be any way to tighten this connection at all short of maybe putting a new gasket between the disc and the glass on the outside. Does anyone have any wisdom about how to fix this? I didn't find anything on the forums. |
Sounds like one of the original rubber gaskets has deteriorated and fallen out. You might find something in the plumbing dept at your local hardware store. McMaster-Carr probably has rubber washers in a number of sizes, but you'd have to buy enough to supply the rest of us as well. I just checked there and they have a number of sizes, all 1/8" thick.
There's also a company called Bokers that sells only washers. They'll make anything in the way of a flat washer, but they really want you to buy a large quantity if it's not a stock item. It's possible that they have something in stock that they could sell only 100 of.
Keep in mind that there are 2 washers in your windows. One is flat, but the other is a washer with a sleeve. I don't remember which is on the outside. It would probably be possible to replace both with 2 flat washers and a bit of plastic tubing. |
They fit the 65 and later Type 1 pop outs as well as the 60 and later Ghia.
113 847 205 and 113 847 207 are the part numbers.
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:06 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
However, there's still a slight chirping sound when accelerating and pushing the rpms in 2nd and 3rd. |
Sometimes the muffler heat shields vibrate and crack, causing a chirping noise from vibration. There are stress points and they tend to crack there. I have had to braze the cracked corners a few times over the years to stop this. |
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D/A/N
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Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:39 am Post subject: |
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Well, fortunately, Airhead Parts sells a "kit" of washers for both windows for only $4.25. That seems like the easiest solution for the windows, assuming the rubber is good quality.
I hadn't considered the heat shields on the muffler as a source of the chirping noise so I'll see what's up there. |
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D/A/N
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Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:15 am Post subject: |
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A little bit of old business finally got tended to. While it's not a perfect color match, this nylon strap should last even longer than the OG cotton one did.
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:36 am Post subject: |
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Looks great! 
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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So after a long quiet spell, some niggling issues are starting to pile up and I've got one that I'm having a hard time thinking through on a Thursday night at the end of what seems like an eternal work week. Here's what's up:
Yesterday, I went to signal a turn and no flash or click. Nothing happened. I pulled over and found fuse #9 had blown. Put in a new one, got turn signals back and went on my merry way.
Then, driving home from work tonight in the dark, I realized that even though my turn signals worked fine, I had no brake lights....people behind me kept riding my ass more than usual and a few people behind me in traffic honked more than usual. When I pulled alongside a car and saw my reflection, I noticed the brake lights didn't work. Also, the generator light came on faintly at idle.
Since everything else associated with fuse #9 worked perfectly fine, I figured maybe the bulbs had burned out. Put one new bulb in, applied the brakes and all of a sudden no turn signals, and still no brake lights. The #9 fuse blew again and was quite warm to the touch. Didn't bother with the other side though I know I should just to see if there's a problem with one side or the other.
Otherwise, anyone have a suggestion of what to dive into first? My brain has gone a little soft but I'm guessing I'm looking for a short somewhere? FWIW the brake light bulbs were replaced over the summer and nothing electrical has been touched in a long time so I can't relate this to any recent work. It's just one of those sudden irritating surprises. |
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periscopebill
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Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Maybe check your brake light switches? I had to replace mine earlier this summer. They were pretty corroded, probably from the lovely winter we had last year. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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Horn, brake lights, and power feed to the 4 way switch are all on that fuse. I'll bet it's either a horn or a brake light switch issue.
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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Just got in from checking out the horn wiring, the 3 way connector on the driver's side of the trunk, the wires and connectors on both sides of fuse #9 and the connectors behind the taillight carrier. All of these things are fine. Checked out the connectors to the brake light switches on the MC and found this corroded and broken little beauty. Unfortunately, changing it for a new one didn't help at all
Put in a new fuse and it blew after pressing on the brake three times. Ran out of white fuses and put a red one in (not advisable, I know) and we drove around the neighborhood for a good 5 minutes before it popped. Dunno why. Here's a quick recap of stuff which will hopefully make sense to someone:
I noticed that the #9 fuse popped the other day because I had no turn signals. When I changed it, I happened to notice that the #8 fuse was actually a blue 25 amp instead of a red 16 amp. It was also blown. I changed the #8 to a 16 amp and replaced #9 with a new 8 amp. The next day, I realized I had turn signals, horn, etc. but no brake lights. When I changed a brake light bulb, it blew a fuse and the brake lights never came on. Today, the lights worked after we cleaned up the wiring by the MC but soon popped a fuse.
Could I have fixed the initial problem but then screwed up the wiring on the MC or would the brake lights just never have worked? The connectors were so loose that when I pulled back the protective boot, they slipped right off and I never got to see which one went where...I just followed the bend of the wires when replacing them. The Bentley wiring diagram is no help because it shows 3 wires going to 3 posts and we only have 2 connectors (each with two wires) going to 2 posts.
This is frustrating!! |
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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| D/A/N.....old business....did I ever send you an under dash original type 3 stereo mounting plate? I seem to remember someone asking for one and I thought it was you. I just unpacked it last night if you still need it. Ray |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| D/A/N.....old business....did I ever send you an under dash original type 3 stereo mounting plate? I seem to remember someone asking for one and I thought it was you. I just unpacked it last night if you still need it. Ray |
Hi there Ray.....yeah that was me, but we found another one and all is good now. I sure wouldn't mind some tips on how to fix this blowing fuse though! |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
| D/A/N.....old business....did I ever send you an under dash original type 3 stereo mounting plate? I seem to remember someone asking for one and I thought it was you. I just unpacked it last night if you still need it. Ray |
Hi there Ray.....yeah that was me, but we found another one and all is good now. I sure wouldn't mind some tips on how to fix this blowing fuse though! |
Stupid question... but when you replaced the bulb, did you use the right type? A single or double filament bulb where the opposite is required will fit but cause issues. Hey- it happens!
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
| D/A/N.....old business....did I ever send you an under dash original type 3 stereo mounting plate? I seem to remember someone asking for one and I thought it was you. I just unpacked it last night if you still need it. Ray |
Hi there Ray.....yeah that was me, but we found another one and all is good now. I sure wouldn't mind some tips on how to fix this blowing fuse though! |
Stupid question... but when you replaced the bulb, did you use the right type? A single or double filament bulb where the opposite is required will fit but cause issues. Hey- it happens! |
We replaced a double with a double. Of course there's no need for it to be double as the brake light is single function. Should I try a single filament bulb just for fun? Anyone have a contemporary part # for that? With the forum search function down I can't locate a #.
I'm getting a sinking feeling that this is going to be one of those issues that we chase around for weeks. Or am I just bitter that I'm going to have to daily drive the Type 1 until we figure this out? |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
| D/A/N.....old business....did I ever send you an under dash original type 3 stereo mounting plate? I seem to remember someone asking for one and I thought it was you. I just unpacked it last night if you still need it. Ray |
Hi there Ray.....yeah that was me, but we found another one and all is good now. I sure wouldn't mind some tips on how to fix this blowing fuse though! |
Stupid question... but when you replaced the bulb, did you use the right type? A single or double filament bulb where the opposite is required will fit but cause issues. Hey- it happens! |
We replaced a double with a double. Of course there's no need for it to be double as the brake light is single function. Should I try a single filament bulb just for fun? Anyone have a contemporary part # for that? With the forum search function down I can't locate a #.
I'm getting a sinking feeling that this is going to be one of those issues that we chase around for weeks. Or am I just bitter that I'm going to have to daily drive the Type 1 until we figure this out? |
Look down inside the socket. Are there two copper tangs or just one?
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
| D/A/N.....old business....did I ever send you an under dash original type 3 stereo mounting plate? I seem to remember someone asking for one and I thought it was you. I just unpacked it last night if you still need it. Ray |
Hi there Ray.....yeah that was me, but we found another one and all is good now. I sure wouldn't mind some tips on how to fix this blowing fuse though! |
Stupid question... but when you replaced the bulb, did you use the right type? A single or double filament bulb where the opposite is required will fit but cause issues. Hey- it happens! |
We replaced a double with a double. Of course there's no need for it to be double as the brake light is single function. Should I try a single filament bulb just for fun? Anyone have a contemporary part # for that? With the forum search function down I can't locate a #.
I'm getting a sinking feeling that this is going to be one of those issues that we chase around for weeks. Or am I just bitter that I'm going to have to daily drive the Type 1 until we figure this out? |
Si Senor.
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| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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