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69dailydriver
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 8
Location: SF Bay Area, California
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 Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:59 am Post subject: |
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...and I think I'm piecing it together. Whether or not this is the right cable, I'll need the speedo dust cap with the square cut out. The c-clip is to keep it from pulling back through the hub.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D111%2D405%2D691%2DB
Anything wrong with cip1 parts?
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'69 Type 1 1600DP |
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vamram 
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7307
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Dang, you stumped me. I'm too dumb for that question, i only use stock rims.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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69dailydriver
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2014
Posts: 8
Location: SF Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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| vamram wrote: |
| Dang, you stumped me. I'm too dumb for that question, i only use stock rims. |
Haha thanks for your help anyway! You pointed me in the right direction; I'm the idiot trying to find the square hole in the dust cap... in the aftermarket rims. Whoops.
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'69 Type 1 1600DP |
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Plantman
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004
Posts: 688
Location: Brevard,NC
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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The dust cap from CIP is what you need. That is to keep the dirt out of your bearings. The cover for the rim is just for appearance. The rims you have look to be Gurneys. I have the same on my bug. If your cable doesn't have the grove for the cir-clip and has a hole instead, just use the largest piece of wire that will fit in the hole and twist a loop in it to keep it from backing out.
Good luck, David
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Every day may not be good, but there is something good in every day,
No matter where you go, there you are.
'69 bug & '71 Ghia |
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irvc
Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2008
Posts: 5
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| Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 5:09 pm Post subject: 1974 standard beetle |
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| I have a bracket that came from the trunk and I believe it go's with the fuse box can anyone help the bracket is l shaped and about 6 inches long and about 4 inches tall[/b] |
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Akantares
Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 7:01 am Post subject: |
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Hey guys, so I recently got a 1969 Beetle. It's great, runs and drives wonderfully, but it's got some electrical problems. I'm a complete VW noob as well, so, sorry if these questions are a bit dumb. (but i guess this is the stupid question thread so...)
First off, the speedometer backlights don't work. I've replaced the bulbs and still nothing, so I think there might be a problem with the headlight switch. Thing is, I can't reach the damn thing with the wiper assembly in the way. Is there any other way to fix this issue without taking out the wiper motor and everything?
Second problem, the fuel gauge doesn't work. I don't even know where to start with this. I took the sender out of the fuel tank and it doesn't look like there's anything wrong with it but I'm not really sure what to even look for.
Third, my brake lights don't work. Oh and the left tail light doesn't either, think that might just be the bulb though. The right one still works, it's just that the brake lights don't come on when I press the brake pedal or the b button in the middle of my dashboard.
One last thing, there's this occasional weird ticking/clicking noise coming from the rear of the car when I'm driving. It sounds almost like an electrical spark, and it gets faster or slower in proportion to the engine speed. Any ideas?
Thanks so much guys. |
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Volks Wagen
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013
Posts: 2926
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:59 am Post subject: |
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| cjsuner wrote: |
So i was looking through my box of old parts, and looked at my Dizzy,
it is a bosche, made in Germany, FJ4, but the numbers ends with 49.
So what kind of dizzy is that? is it a 009? (it is a DVDA) |
What's the full bosch number? Look it up here: http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm
_________________
1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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Lmcook919
Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2014
Posts: 4
Location: Beck Row, UK
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| Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 8:04 pm Post subject: 1303 original engine? |
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I just recently bought a 1303 (1973) beetle. What I gather from my chassis nmber (133-2353-283) is that I have a 1973 chassis. On my V5 it says that I have a 1600cc engine. However, what I can gather from the data plate on my engine I have a 1300 cc engine. The engine code looks similar to this (B 5556-AB-308903) The AB indicates that its a 1300 cc... and the V5 reflects to appropriate engine number (308903) but says its a 1600cc.
Any guidance on what that engine number might be or if there were any non-us 1303 beetles shipped with a 1300cc engine? |
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GArBa
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2014
Posts: 2105
Location: Milano, Italy
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| Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:33 am Post subject: |
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A 1303 with a 1300 is quite common in europe.
that said, you likely have a remanufactured engine (refer also to this thread) on which they re-stamped the original engine number. Thus the number no longer reflects its production specs: it may have been rebuilt as a 1600.
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cars:
'97 type 1 1600i
'14 type AA Seat Mii (sadly dead after 270.000 km)
'22 type C1 T-Cross
'23 type AC3 Hyundai I10 (VW no longer makes small cars!)
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moped:
'82 Benelli Magnum 3v |
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[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2011
Posts: 1593
Location: Louisville, ky
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| Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:56 am Post subject: |
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| Akantares wrote: |
Hey guys, so I recently got a 1969 Beetle. It's great, runs and drives wonderfully, but it's got some electrical problems. I'm a complete VW noob as well, so, sorry if these questions are a bit dumb. (but i guess this is the stupid question thread so...)
First off, the speedometer backlights don't work. I've replaced the bulbs and still nothing, so I think there might be a problem with the headlight switch. Thing is, I can't reach the damn thing with the wiper assembly in the way. Is there any other way to fix this issue without taking out the wiper motor and everything?
Second problem, the fuel gauge doesn't work. I don't even know where to start with this. I took the sender out of the fuel tank and it doesn't look like there's anything wrong with it but I'm not really sure what to even look for.
Third, my brake lights don't work. Oh and the left tail light doesn't either, think that might just be the bulb though. The right one still works, it's just that the brake lights don't come on when I press the brake pedal or the b button in the middle of my dashboard.
One last thing, there's this occasional weird ticking/clicking noise coming from the rear of the car when I'm driving. It sounds almost like an electrical spark, and it gets faster or slower in proportion to the engine speed. Any ideas?
Thanks so much guys. |
So many questions so little time.
1. I like to take the radio out instead of the wiper assembly off. There is also a little tool for taking the nut so the wiper switch conveniently dangles in the now radio hole so you have full access and viewing. I made my own special tool by rounding and notching a piece of spare flat steel.
2nd fuel guage. Short the wire going to the tank, should read full, at least you can tell whether it is the guage or sender. It could be both. There is like an inch long piece on the back of the speedo assembly that the fuel wire connects to. If it is metal, replace it with the new plastic one before proceeding. The old ones could destroy the guage.
Third, maybe it's time you got a voltage tester. It would help on 1 and 2 also. That way you can trace the wire instead of guessing if the bulb is bad. There are really good, and really confusing to a newbie wiring diagrams in the technical section here on the samba. It takes a while but once you figure out how to read the wiring chart it is easy. I don't leave home without it. |
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Lmcook919
Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2014
Posts: 4
Location: Beck Row, UK
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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| GArBa wrote: |
A 1303 with a 1300 is quite common in europe.
that said, you likely have a remanufactured engine (refer also to this thread) on which they re-stamped the original engine number. Thus the number no longer reflects its production specs: it may have been rebuilt as a 1600. |
Thanks for the information. I checked out the link you referred me to and unless I am reading it incorrectly it still doesn't give any information on what engine came with that chassis. I have to make sure its the original engine size in order to ship it back to the states when I come back. Is there a way to tell find out if it is 1600cc or 1300cc without having to tear the engine apart?
I am going to rebuild the engine regardless, I just do not want to dive into a rebuild on an engine I will have to swap to send it home anyway.
Again, thanks for any and all information/help you guys can provide. |
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eyetzr
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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Why?? I am sure the kid in the wagon is thinking the same
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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enjoyther1de
Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2010
Posts: 1279
Location: chino,ca
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Because you can.
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HBB took me to BBV. |
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enjoyther1de
Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2010
Posts: 1279
Location: chino,ca
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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Because you can.
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HBB took me to BBV. |
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4therush
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2013
Posts: 4
Location: Fort Huachuca AZ
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 7:56 pm Post subject: What is the best Ragtop kit out there. |
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I am thinking of making my 72 Super a ragtop. But really have no clue who makes the best kit. Any suggestions are appreciated.  |
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hitest
Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2008
Posts: 10296
Location: Prime Meridian, ID
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: What is the best Ragtop kit out there. |
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| 4therush wrote: |
| I am thinking of making my 72 Super a ragtop. But really have no clue who makes the best kit. Any suggestions are appreciated. |
Volkswagen does- in the form of a graft. Besides doing it right, you can still buy aftermarket kits from slidingragtops.com. I wouldn't do anything before talking to Grumpy's Metal.
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| EverettB wrote: |
I wonder what the nut looks like.
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'62 L390 151, '62 L469 117, '63 L380 113, '64 L87 311, '65 L512 265, '65 L31 SO-42, '66 L360 251, '68 L30k 141, '71 L12 113, '74 ORG 181
FU#5 |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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Volks Wagen
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013
Posts: 2926
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Lmcook919 wrote: |
| GArBa wrote: |
A 1303 with a 1300 is quite common in europe.
that said, you likely have a remanufactured engine (refer also to this thread) on which they re-stamped the original engine number. Thus the number no longer reflects its production specs: it may have been rebuilt as a 1600. |
Thanks for the information. I checked out the link you referred me to and unless I am reading it incorrectly it still doesn't give any information on what engine came with that chassis. I have to make sure its the original engine size in order to ship it back to the states when I come back. Is there a way to tell find out if it is 1600cc or 1300cc without having to tear the engine apart?
I am going to rebuild the engine regardless, I just do not want to dive into a rebuild on an engine I will have to swap to send it home anyway.
Again, thanks for any and all information/help you guys can provide. |
I assume you have to have a 'original spec' car or something to allow you to import? Whatever the prob is...
From what I'm hearing, you will likely need to either persuade the wankers in the registration office that the engine is 1285cc dual-port (original AB spec), or make it a 1285cc DP and then get someone to verify or certify that for you somehow so that the wankers in the MOT will accept it. Then you have to see if they give you new docs. To be honest, no-one will know the difference from the outside of the motor, they'd have to pull the heads and measure the bore and stroke or shove some fancy ass equipment in there to measure it. I would talk to the f*ckers first and see what your chances are - tell them exactly what you are trying to do with the car and what the documentation problem is...
If you need to rebuild to 1285cc you might have a problem sourcing dp 1285cc heads and P&C's, as many of them have been rebuilt to 1600cc.
Normally, I would never suggest anyone lie and deceive, as it is the lowest, but with the bureaucratic bullshit you will likely encounter that effectively will only waste resources and serve no reasonable end, I would not only suggest it in this case, but I would recommend it. The stupidity and absolute nonsensical red-tape and bollocks you will likely encounter is even lower than lies and deceit used to a good and simple, logical end.
Then again, you might get lucky.
_________________
1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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EverettB
Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7307
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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Glad to be back on this thread! 
I have a couple of dumb questions today.
I just bought this for my '72's oil bath air filter.
Can anyone tell me which of the two ports connects to the intake manifold? The brass one or the black plastic one?
Also - even tightened down, the air filter remains loose on the carb so i'll probably end up w/a vacuum leak. Any good way to ensure a tight seal w/out crushing the ventury?
Thanks!
Victor
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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