Restoring Camper Top FAQ

notchboy · Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 2:49 pm Post subject:

If you want your bus to retain any kind of value - like as close to a stock presentation as possible then don NOT use Rhino coat or any kind of rubberized coat for the fiberglass top. Im pretty sure it would look decent but at the end of the day it will look like bed coat on your top Confused

Im sure it would ad some unwanted weight as well depending on how thick it was put on.

Fiberglass is easy to fix. Bondo makes a kit that would do that corner in a snap. If you dont want to do it then find a body guy to knock it out. You can go as far as to find a boat place that will re-glass it all for you. Gell Coat.
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MonkeySee · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:50 am Post subject:

All good advice. .

highlandmurf

Thanks to this site, and this thread, I did a nice job on my pop top refresh, if I do say so myself. Pics to come.

In the meantime, I just wanted to throw up some useful info:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

*Oh, and the lock/star washers for the luggage rack bolts are also not on the list

I found Fastenal to be a good place to get fasteners in small quantities.

Anyone got a spec on sheet metal screws for the luggage rack?
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1976 Westy Marigold Yellow
2.0 stock FI
My M-Plate

Manfreds78bay · Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 12:15 pm Post subject:

Yes, this thread was a great resource. You have a lot of choices. You can spend a ton of time painting and sanding and you will get great results. Or you can do what I did, and do some sanding paint and be done and get pretty good results. My bus will never by a show winner, so I more or less just want to preserve it and not restore it. Used a power sander and bought the highest quality outdoor white paint I could find from Home Depot and just rolled it on.

Before:

After:

Before:

After:

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1978 2.0L FI Campmobile

1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI

TXBONE · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:06 pm Post subject:

Good info here.
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Full of energy. Always need to be surfing, riding motocross or riding BMX etc...... I shape and surf retro finless wood surfboards called Alaia's. If your interested and want one made for your bus or wall, let me know.

"Goldy" OG 69' CAMPMOBILE

MonkeySee · Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:22 am Post subject:

What about replacing the wood? Getting the proper curvature and all.
Or did I miss that somewhere?

highlandmurf · Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:00 am Post subject:

Hey all, just a couple of pics of my pop top refresh.

I went with Interlux Bright sides boat paint, because I wanted to get a good primer coat on the top. I had previously power washed it, revealing a lot of rough fibers.
Three coats, took about a quart and a half of paint, and a quart of primer.

I regret using a nappy roller for the primer, it went on too heavy and required a lot (10-12 hours) of sanding. The finished surface was really nice though. filled in all fibers.

I am very happy with the finished product.

Here is the before and after. (roof rack is still primed in this shot)

Between the paint, primer and fiberlass repair, I think I was into it for about $130

Here are a few pics of a crack i repaired using a west system 101 repair kit and some fiberglass cloth.
(I would source these online, The cloth is also available at autobody shops for a lot less than a marina would get)

Westy Sticker location for the perfectionists Very Happy

Thanks again for all the great advice.
_________________
1976 Westy Marigold Yellow
2.0 stock FI
My M-Plate

Dub Owner · Samba Member Joined: June 06, 2005 Posts: 351

tomkiwi · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 3:44 pm Post subject:

highlandmurf · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 4:51 pm Post subject:

Here's a link to an early bay top wood repair:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=366409&highlight=fiberglass+wood
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1976 Westy Marigold Yellow
2.0 stock FI
My M-Plate

Dub Owner · Samba Member Joined: June 06, 2005 Posts: 351

HerrFink

I'm about to get my bus bead blasted and the shop suggested walnut shell blasting the fiberglass top and then i'll put new epoxy prime and then gelcoat on anyone try this and have good results or else know if it is overkill or otherwise?
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-1971 Bay Window Westfalia PopTop Purchased and first registered & Sold in CA in 1970.

Our79Westy · Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 1:09 pm Post subject: here's what I did

This is a very useful thread, thank you everyone. I referenced it before and during my 1979 campmobile poptop restoration/refresh. Not only did I paint my poptop white (and glow in the dark rustoleum), I installed a solid headliner over the flaking flocking. You can check it out on my thread here.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620475

What did you use to seal the mounting hardware bolts penetrating the fiberglass poptop and body?

And of course, Good luck on yours!
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1979 Westfalia DELUXE 2.0 FI manual
Mexican beigeutiful and mostly original.

See the most up to date status of Constance on YouTube
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCvO1ZedS22IepvvRYaTxiPQ

My 1979 Westfalia Campmobile's sundry Tales of Constance
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620965

1990 Vanagon, Red, Driven 70,000 miles till sold.

Thrasher22 · Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:14 am Post subject:

I used rubber washers on most bolts to keep water out, worked well during heavy rains last year.

Unrelated, but I'm trying to install my new canvas from bus depot (the BD brand) and am finding the rear is INCREDIBLY tight trying to screw the bottom retainer strip. I have to use all of my power to stretch it far enough and am worried it'll rip.

Any advice? The top took a couple tries but looks well aligned (went to all corners with only slight pressure).
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1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701

Our79Westy

Try a search using tight canvas, from what I've read it could be anything from the wrong one to a bad batch. Good luck in the fitment and someone should hopefully have a trick fix to your conundrum.

hey BusterBrown,

Thrasher22

Keith

If you're going for factory correct, all of the aluminum pieces on our westy's are galvanized and should have that dull galvanized finish and shouldn't shine like chrome.

I've used some aluminum and galvanized paints that get the color and sheen damn close and they last but, you don't get the proper pattern that hot dip galvanization creates so, it's not "correct".
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Formerly known in the forums as "OVALTEEN"

"I firmly believe that some villagers from Botswana could probably build a better road than PennDot."- Splitty

"If you do anything to your car someone will hate on you for it. People absolutely love to complain and find fault with others. Don't let it bother you. Just live and have fun."- Lind

Our79Westy · Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 5:43 am Post subject: careful what you shine

Keith,

Thanks for the knowledge, I was wondering why all the aluminum looked so dull and agree that those concerned with factory correctness should consider this during their refresh.

Could you please quantify your statement "and they last". Have you had to or What is your repaint/refresh rate? 5 years, 10 years? Got pictures?

After spending so much time refreshing my poptop fiberglass I was not satisfied with that dull, galvanized look of the mounting hardware. Aluminum has great corrosion resistance and should be alright by itself being washed and waxed periodically with the rest of the bus.

I include a link immediately below on the corrosion properties of aluminum and appropriate choice of fasteners to minimize galvanic corrosion, pitting and failure.

http://www.aluminiumdesign.net/design-support/aluminium-corrosion-resistance/

Without starting a new thread on why they did what they did...hmmm.... I figure the factory galvanized the aluminum to extend the life of these components in the "wettest" most corrosive environments. But again, for my purposes the Shiney waxed natural aluminum oxidation layer is much more visually appealing and possibly easier to restore than repainting as I intend and hope to enjoy the fruits of my labors for decades to come and will let you know how it stands ttot, (the test of time).

Soo, after you painted your hardware, what did you use to seal your poptop bolt hole and bus body penetrations when you put it all back together?

And did you reuse your OG (Original German) nuts and bolts?

Keith and everyone, thanks again for your advice, comments and constructive criticisms.
_________________
1979 Westfalia DELUXE 2.0 FI manual
Mexican beigeutiful and mostly original.

See the most up to date status of Constance on YouTube
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCvO1ZedS22IepvvRYaTxiPQ

My 1979 Westfalia Campmobile's sundry Tales of Constance
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620965

1990 Vanagon, Red, Driven 70,000 miles till sold.

Rumdum · Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 7:32 am Post subject:

highlandmurf · Posted: Fri May 08, 2015 8:40 pm Post subject:

I shimmed my hinges up a half inch in the back with plywood.
You have to account for the wood thickness when installing the canvas.
But, honestly I do not think that it made much of a difference at the rear corner.

In fact, the repair pic above may be with the shim in place.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=552568&highlight=

_________________
1976 Westy Marigold Yellow
2.0 stock FI
My M-Plate


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