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Cb crank oiling question
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont realy fully grove my mains, I do a partial grove leave about1/2" un groved like the calies bearings I used to get for v8 stuff.I dont have bearing issues.over bearing issues...... Shocked possiably Rolling Eyes
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

some pics to make it easier



On the left is a KS bearing for use on a non cross drilled crank. The bearing on the right is for use on a cross drilled crank.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Here is a late VW of Mexico cast crank with cross drill oiling (any 1600 forged German crank is the same)


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



69mm 1500 and many aftermarket stroker cranks are not cross drilled requiring the use of the KS bearing to allow full 360* oil to the rods. Below is a 82mm Scat crank that is not cross drilled but has the journal modification to allow full oiling while using a non cross drilled type bearing.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Northof49
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I 360 groove the split bearings on a lathe?

SRP1's work:



http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/vwparts86/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-02-02_172051_zpsa9f69018.jpg

On second thought, as the back side of these bearings are already grooved, that doesn't leave much bearing left if they are grooved internally afterwards.
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the center bearings can be grooved on a lathe. A fixture must be made to hold both halfs at once. It's not that difficult to do by hand with a Dremmel tool. I tape off both sides of the bearing to protect it and it gives a straight edge to go by. As I said before, I make the groove about .030" wide and as deep.
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85burb
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went and looked at his bearing today. He did groove it but I don't think it was wide enough. And was not centered well. He does have a lathe and he is pretty smart so I am betting he can groove them better some how. He tore a core motor down when I was there that he is gonna build for his next race motor. So we will get to try again.
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it help or harm to make another hole through the bearing at the midway point?
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85burb
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northof49 wrote:
Would it help or harm to make another hole through the bearing at the midway point?


I was wondering that today. I came across a picture of a 944 main bearing and it has slots that go threw the bearing all the way around.
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remember correctly Wasser engines also have the slots in the mains
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
here's another way center main is drilled.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's all Bergy and stuff.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Cb crank oiling question Reply with quote

85burb wrote:
I thought I read someware on here that the oiling holes in the cb crank require oil system mods. My friend has just spun a rod bearing in his circle track motor and compleatly distroyed the hole motor. I am pretty sure it's a 82 stroke with the really nice cb rods. He has built vw motor and vw and ford race motor for ever. This is his second motor to fail like this this year. It was turning 7-7500 rpm when the rod let loose. The motor only had 3-4 races on it and the oil filter has been cut open after every race. No metal was ever found. I would think the rods would hold up to 7500 rpm. Any ideas?


I've recently used two "out-of-the-box" CB cranks (78.4 mm & 84 mm) WITHOUT any modifications to the crank or bearings. Both used CB H-beam rods.

I prefer the steel-backed bearings with outer groove and the two inner scoops (360 groove not needed).

This is in my street-strip Beetle with over 300 races (1/4-mile) on each crank plus 23,000 street miles. Same standard main bearings for both cranks and no rod bearing issues (two sets used when switching from VW size to Buick for the 84 crank).

I have the rev limiter set anywhere from 7500-7900 rpm.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neil68.. do you use 26mm. Or 30mm. Oil pump? And what weight oil?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I refrained from....... refraining because it wasn't part of the question...........BUT.
The FIRST question to ask is what was the rod bearing clearance??

Second what oil and lets see the air filter.

Then we talk about bearing grooves Wink
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85burb
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not sure about the rod bearing clearance. But he turns them so they are all strait up and makes sure they fall at a good speed and all the same. The oil is 15-40 for sure. He has a holley 500 two barrel carb and uses a big round tall air filter that has a outer wrap on it. I think he has a 30mm pump in it. Non full flowed. He is very against full flow cases and of all things duel carbs.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

85burb wrote:
I am not sure about the rod bearing clearance. But he turns them so they are all strait up and makes sure they fall at a good speed and all the same. The oil is 15-40 for sure. He has a holley 500 two barrel carb and uses a big round tall air filter that has a outer wrap on it. I think he has a 30mm pump in it. Non full flowed. He is very against full flow cases and of all things duel carbs.


That's not gonna cut it , fall at the same speed ?/ he needs to know what clearance ???
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Last edited by raul arrese on Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

agnist full flow??? just smile and sell him some more parts and a box of chockalattee candies. stupid is as stupid does. ( not including spellen teacher test's)
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok then it's pretty clear cut. the 15-40 oil is OK choice, but Failed because you can't use thick oil with tight bearings.
Have the crank ground for .0025-.003 bearing clearance and try again.

I am sure the main and cam bearings are ruined too from not having an oil filter.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
Ok then it's pretty clear cut. the 15-40 oil is OK choice, but Failed because you can't use thick oil with tight bearings.
Have the crank ground for .0025-.003 bearing clearance and try again.

I am sure the main and cam bearings are ruined too from not having an oil filter.


As a rule you should have 1 thousandth for every 1 inch of journal and if your revving the shit out of it for long periods then modok is right on .. I like the .0025
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you betcha!
And also consider oil flow and flex. There is a lot of flex in the crankshaft, so not a good idea to have your rods significantly tighter than the mains. If the rods are trying to keep the crank straight it will certainly result in more friction and heat!!
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and skeered of dulling crabs......he's lost without hope of finding him self.those are the kinda guys I refer to toyota for a car.sorry but I call it as I see it. some have it some dont,some think they do and those who do just smile and nod thier head.kinda like cant teach old dogs new tricks but they sure do buy a lot of defective parts to eat up.
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