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Bare metal prep should I start over?
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Scorpwanna
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 7:29 pm    Post subject: Bare metal prep should I start over? Reply with quote

Got a used hood and fender and stripped them down to bare metal for a fresh paint and to get rid of multiple layers of paint. I wiped the metal with lacquer thinner and allowed it to dry, even used a hair dryer. Sprayed it with etching primer (rattle can, rustoleum automotive). Had to do some bondo work on the fender as well.

Will this be ok for long term? I have to prep this hood and fender to get painted by a body shop because I don't trust that they will since they didn't for my car before (however I didn't go down to bare metal that time). They are the only ones who can paint the parts for my car because of the type of paint used and the formula (not paint code).
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BUGGED11111
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should post to the Body/Paint forum. Many sharp body repair people in there. I've gotten lots of help
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2

The problem is that many types of paints and primers are not compatible. Meaning that when the two come into contact, a chemical reaction occurs. Then you can get bubbling, and in a worse case scenario, the paint and primer cam sloth off. Out here in CA, we can only use water based primers and paint now. So if you used am old oil based primer under your new paint, kiss the job behind.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By and large today's quality products are a two part epoxy type system, once mixed....... You use it or lose it.

Rattle can finish is most often a one part air dry system...... A Sub standard finish at best.

As mentioned, paints today are a system, a family of products that works together.

I'd strip off your primer, go back to square one and do it properly using the proper products.

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marklaken
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't trust rustoleum primer - especially if you are buying more expensive paint to put on top of it. I would buy a quart of 2-part DTM Primer and some wax/grease remover (instead of lacquer thinner) and redo. Shouldn't take too much effort - Rustoleum comes off almost as easy as it goes on.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rustoleum is an oil based paint, so if you try and paint over it with a non-oil paint (pretty much anything but rustoleum) you'll likely run into big issues.

That should be fine to keep rust off while you work on it, but someone (you or the shop) will have to remove the primer if you're using "real" automotive paint, which I'm assuming you are if its going to a shop.
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Scorpwanna
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hrm... I took the primer off the hood back down to bare metal again, got some acetone and wiped it on there, allowed it to dry. Used the Rustoleum self etch primer like before. I have no access to good paints or the know how to use them. The paint the body shop uses is Sherwin Williams automotive paint. Its what they used to paint my car in the past. Which I found they didn't prime with their stuff :(. I had primed it with rattle cans just to protect the metal at the time. When I got it back from the body shop it looked fine until a month later when things started happening. Long story short, it was a waste of money and I couldn't do anything about it. But I'm forced to have them paint the fender and hood since they have the paint and everything else to do it. Was a formula and not a paint code they used that no one else around can match. :(
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Manufacture Date: December 12 1970
Left Factory on: December 17 1970 (Emden Germany)
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Scorpwanna
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah, since I used a chemical stripper, how do I paint that hard to reach area under the hood where the 2 pieces come together? The little holes?
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Manufacture Date: December 12 1970
Left Factory on: December 17 1970 (Emden Germany)
Received: Washington, USA
Original Color: L 12 D Shantung Yellow
SOLEX 34-PICT 3 Carb
I've got a Bentley
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never had any problems painting over thin rattle can primer. Paint the whole car a color that you mix. Never let a Painter hold you hostage to his work!
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