Dash Pod colour needed

[PastDown]

Hello all,

I'm after the colour (White) for the speedo pod, the previous owner removed the paint.

Is it L62 or L81?

Many Thanks,

Roib

[PastDown]

Anyone? I'd like to get the correct colour.

Thanks

[mandraks]

i did not think they were painted?
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regards

Uli

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'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

[Sameleon]

Yes, Some bakelit dash pods are painted white/ivory. I have same issue. Speedo pod are ok, but clock pod has paint removed. My plan is to mix exactly the same color as on speedo pod.

[coolparts]

L60 ivory. You can buy a can of krylon at home depot that's real close.

[EverettB]

From this older thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=578146

[pastellgreen]

Hello,

does nobody have the exact paint code for deluxe dash pods?
In this threat I find L60, L62 and L81.

On the german site "oldbug.de" I found the code "L 75 lichtbeige" for the wheel-center of deluxe beetles from 1951 and 1952. I have read anywhere in this forum here, that the colour for these wheel centers and dash pods have had the same formule.
Anyway: L87 pearlwhite is not the correct code for both, centerparts of wheels and dashpods

But as there are other faults on oldbug concerning paint codes, I just want to know, what you are thinking about it...

[johnshenry]

My experience is that Krylon Ivory is the closest match. I am restoring a few pods right now, including an original ivory bakelight one. I will try to remember to take some pics comparing the colors and post here. Although the shades of the original ivory bakelite varies quite a bit. I also have an NOS, in the VW parts box, pod that I use as a comparison.
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John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab

[PastDown]

Thank you for all help. Living in UK it's not easy getting hold of that paint but I found some on Amazon

Thanks

[johnshenry]

Here's s a couple pics comparing the Krylon Ivory (right) with an original unpainted ivory pod. One pic with a flash, one with out. The original ivory is a bit yellower. I do have an NOS painted pod that I would take pics of too.

Will say that if you paint a pod with this paint, it is best to glass bead the pod, block sand it with 400 and 600 grit, then use a high solids primer and block sand with 1000 grit, then spray the Krylon. One barely covered "flash" coat (wait 10-15 mins) then another. If you don't do this, you will get coverage problems, pooling of paint, etc.

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John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab

[johnshenry]

Here's a better pic:

The pod on the top is painted with the Krylon Ivory (over Rustoleum sandable primer) and it has original knobs. The pod on the bottom is an original '49 ivory bakelite pod with reproduction knobs. The color is very close.
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John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab

[Brezelwerks]

Couple things to consider.

A solid spray enamel has virtually no depth, whereas the old bakelite has considerable depth/translucency. So bad comparison, which is easy to see as shown above.

Also, original bakelite, NOS or not, is now also over 60 years old, age affects its original color alot, so not a way to determine what spray can color to use today. Ideally you would look to see a polished area of the more often seen solid dark colored bakelite pods that were painted an off white of unknown color code based on many prior discussions in the past.

From my experience in repainting my share of pods in the past, when I used to use a Krylon, it was not "Ivory", this was far too light in color, instead "Antique White" is/was the closest match, and sometimes you can locate this color or RustOleums' Painters' Touch in Antique White, both are very similar, easy to lay down, forgiving as hell, and play the part nicely.

However, I only suggest a spray can enamel if you have no other option, because its an enamel, not a lacquer, or a urethane, which actually fully dry and are far more durable, than a cheap general purpose enamel such as Krylon.

Unless you plan to almost never actuate either of the pod knobs, I do not recommend a spray enamel since eventually its too easy to score, or chip, or flake off due to accidentally hitting your fingernail in the area, or your key accidentally slips off the ignition keyway into the paint, or just pressing too hard on the face of the pod knob into the paint when turning, an eventually this will start to mark and/or ding the paint. Krylon is actually a poor quality enamel, even when used with a primer, Krylon is not forgiving to hard or firm objects resting or riding against it. So unless you like to use touchup, avoid it.

Today most of us, at least here in the US, have much better options. Today you can go to just about any half decent auto body supply store, and even some of the better retailer auto supply stores, and either provide them with a color chip you want, or pick from a color chart, and they can make you up a base color spray can of the "ivory" you want, which is polyester based, not an enamel, far more durable, and the cans and sprayer nozzles are 3x nicer than any general purpose enamel spray can.

This is how I only spray now, and then top coat with Proform's UV stable clear coat acrylic spray can, to bring up both a nice gloss as well as that nice depth you would be ideally looking for. So, 3 light coats of base, wait an hour, 2-3 light coats of clear, wait 48hrs, buff to how you please. Easy to use, as forgiving as Krylon, better result, no gun cleaning mess, and 10x more durable.

Now a can of Krylon will set you back just $6, whereas the custom poly ivory will set you back $30, can of clear @$12, well worth it IMO for actually a professional solution, and materials, that you can do yourself.

Alternatively, you can also fairly easily acquire urethane sprays in cans now as well, from your local shop, and online, for about the same as the polys, which are marginally more durable.

Better choices are out there for not alot more money, but should eliminate any future headaches and disappointments from eventual paint damage by using an inferior enamel product. Please note also, just passing this information along as I no longer offer pod resto/painting work, just interested in passing along better ideas, and seeing others achieve the highest quality work possible.

[930]

Any consensus on the L-color code of the pod? It's impossible to find Krylon-paint around here so it'd be nice to know the color code so I can get the right paint...

Thanks in advance!