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richardc Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2010 Posts: 269 Location: New Jersey & North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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First check boot from air meter to throttle body, see thats it is intact, if it is... then go on line and research l-jetronics how to check fuel pump contacts inside a/f meter. What i thing is happening is fuel pump is energized during cranking(with ign. switch) thats why it starts , but when you release key a/f meter should take over sending power to fuel pump and its not ...causing it to die. _________________ 1970 Ghia vert
1970 Beetle sedan |
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richardc Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2010 Posts: 269 Location: New Jersey & North Carolina
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:38 am Post subject: |
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Another thought came to mind if airflow sensor checks ok is loss of power to coil, there may be power to it during cranking but lose it in run position. _________________ 1970 Ghia vert
1970 Beetle sedan |
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RTope13 Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2012 Posts: 106 Location: North Ogden, Utah
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:58 am Post subject: |
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am i wrong here but in 75 they werent FI engines? |
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richardc Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2010 Posts: 269 Location: New Jersey & North Carolina
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 10:24 am Post subject: |
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For the life of me i thought he said it was FI....don't get old _________________ 1970 Ghia vert
1970 Beetle sedan |
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ekingtulsa Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2014 Posts: 2
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 11:30 am Post subject: |
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richardc,
I'm Gimpy's dad, in reading through this post this morning something you said caused me to rethink a discovery I made last night. You said that it may not be getting power in the run position to the coil. That power comes from the dual relay correct?
Last night as I worked through the engine again I noticed that someone had installed a fuse holder with a 16 amp fuse in one of the black wires on the coil. It was blown and the contacts inside are quite corroded. The schematics I've seen show no fuse there so obviously it's a PO mod. I'm getting another fuse today as it's the bullet ended type of bussman but can we just remove it altogether and splice in a new wire???
Yours or anyone else's help to solve this mystery is greatly appreciated . . .
ekingtulsa |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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Welcome!
For the record, the way this set up works is that when you turn the key to the "start" position, one side of the double relay powers up the fuel pump (located under the tank near the right front wheel) so that your son should be able to wiggle under there and feel it vibrate if indeed it is getting power to the pump. This only happens when the starter is running. Y9ou should expect to see 12 volts to the pump and it should pump out about 1L of fuel in 30 seconds.
After the engine starts, the double relay "shifts" to the other side of the relay and the pump runs off a little microswitch insde the AFM unit. Sometimes you have to insert a long skinny screwdriver in there after removing the air cleaner to open the little door that constrols the little swinging door.
Have your son invest $25 in a dwell meter to verify that he has indeed got juice running through the points. Buy this one...
http://www.searsoutlet.com/Dwell-Tach-Volt-Meter/d/product_details.jsp?pid=12234&mode=seeAll
The double relay is about $100, so we test it before we spend real money on a new one....
http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=5459 |
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ekingtulsa Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2014 Posts: 2
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Randy will do. It's been a pretty frustrating ordeal trying to get it back on the road . . . |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5481 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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ekingtulsa wrote: |
Last night as I worked through the engine again I noticed that someone had installed a fuse holder with a 16 amp fuse in one of the black wires on the coil. It was blown and the contacts inside are quite corroded. The schematics I've seen show no fuse there so obviously it's a PO mod. I'm getting another fuse today as it's the bullet ended type of bussman but can we just remove it altogether and splice in a new wire??? |
I believe you are looking at a factory fuse. The reverse lights tap power from the coil, through a fuse in the engine compartment and around to the transaxle reverse light switch. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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