Just bought a used '71-'72 AE 1600dp-now Autostick-now what?

[67 Sunroof]

I pulled the flex plate off yesterday. I need a new oil pump (obviously)
I would like to get an oil pump with filter on it.
Looking at the CB performance one with the sideways spin-on filter. What else should I be considering?

Going to go through it and check plugs, points, rotor, cap, timing, and valve adjustment. Then plan on checking the compression and see where I stand.
The man I bought it from said it was maintained by an old German mechanic. Before the mechanic died he asked if he could buy it and said it had low miles on it.
I'm "thinking" that because it was an Autostick maybe the #1 bearing won't be in too bad of shape? I read in the Wilson book that clutches are hard on the #1 bearing because of the constant engaging/disengaging.
The man I bought it from I have known for awhile and is a very trustworthy man-in fact he said if she runs bad to come back and he'll give me my $400 back...hahaha. I never expected a warranty with it and certainly wouldn't blame him if something DID go wrong.
Any thoughts on stuff I need to purchase for my new motor? Trying to get a list together for CB Performance Black Friday sale!!
Clutch
Pressure plate
Main seal
Plugs, cap, rotor, condenser, wires
Oil pump with filter
What else?? Thanks!!

[Casting Timmy]

flywheel shim pack, flywheel, I'd probably get a gasket set as well since they are relatively cheap and replace a lot of the easier seals while the motor is out (Oil cooler, valve covers, obviously oil pump, oil pan plate)

[67 Sunroof]

I've got a 12vt flywheel already. I was told I should adjust the endplay or it won't last long because it was a Autostick.

[Dale M.]

End play always NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED..... ... Book says .003th to .005th

To loose it will only get worse, to tight it may bind up....

Dale
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"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

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Be careful when resetting the end play. Make sure the front bearing has not worn the case, and is actually moving in and out. If the bearing is moving .003, and you set your end play at .004, only .001 is actual end play, and the engine won't run very long with that. If the bearing is moving, it also will only get worse, and chance completely destroying the case, so it should be torn down to get thrust cut/line bored.

[67 Sunroof]

Wait, so you are saying I should tear the motor down? Is there any way of checking the bearing otherwise? I don't think you can...?
Also, if I am staying pretty much stock (other that some baby dell's frd34b's)
Is the spin on filter and a "hot dog" muffler a good combination? I think the spin on filter from cb will only fit with certain muffler flanges....

[theKbStockpiler]

An acvw's thrust bearing is the first bearing on the flywheel side. Because mag is soft , heat and use will compress the case where the bearing should be snuggly affixed and the bearing will be allowed to move in relation to the case which it should not.

I have not tried this but it may work:
If you test fit the flywheel with too many shims, all of the play is removed from the flywheel and thrust bearing ,when putting slight force on either end of the crank it will display if your case and thrust bearing have a loose fit and hence your case needs to be align bored.
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