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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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 Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
He doesn't mention any desire for doing a multi-year body off/show car restoration so I'm guessing NO. I'm sure he'd save at least a year buy leaving the body on it.  |
Mike, he's already owned it for 5 years.  And it doesn't take multi-years to do a body off. Plus, you CAN do full length pan halfs and leave the body on. Like Tram, Notchboy, and myself along with several others keep saying, if you're going to jump in, jump in with both feet. That way it's done, and you're not constantly repairing it all the time. It might cost a little more up front, but the long term results outweigh the short term gains. Continuous repairs get old real quick. I'd rather spend the extra time up front, do it right, and be done with it. That way I can enjoy it.  Having actually done several restorations in the last 10 to 15 years, I feel it's the better way to go in the long run. There's nothing worse than having a really nice looking car sitting along side the road because something was cheaped out, while trying to save a buck. I've got a friend who waits until it's broke before he'll actually fix something. Then he wonders why it cost so much to repair it (when it could have been repaired cheaper before it broke). Another friends wife blew a head gasket, due to a small leak in the heater core (ran it out of coolant  ), because she just kept on driving it like that trying to get home.
Now, don't get me wrong, I've patched my share of floor pans before, but that's usually in an attempt to save money, or the parts aren't available. |
Fair enough... I have had it for a few years. But I don't think this should automatically put me in some group of folks trying to cheap out on shit. I've spent the time and $$$ to source good used and NOS parts to get the disc brake front end on this put back to stock, and I've spent the cash on the correct S&P fabric for the interior. What makes you think I'm going to cheap out going forward? Honestly, I'm patching the pans because I think that's all they need. They're really not that bad, but if I get into it and decide that it needs more than I had originally planned, I'll go further. I'm not the guy that ignores stuff that needs attention. I've owned and driven VWs for years... Cut me some slack. |
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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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| Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| That is a nice rear deck! Some 1/4 patch pans from ISP West and Master Series silver & black for the pans & chassis? |
My thoughts exactly!
Only problem here is I was planning to only use the ISP parts to replace the passenger side batter try and driver side under-seat area (planning to chase pinholes and make custom patches for the other smaller holes), but I was shipped a passenger side under-seat pan piece instead of a driver side (as best I can tell). Bummer!! I just got the parts from ISP West on Monday and didn't notice and email them about the error until yesterday so I'm not expecting to hear back until after the holidays. But hopefully I'll get that worked out.
In the mean time I've already patched/filled 99% of the forward part of the driver side pan (all mig welded & ground), and next up is removing the kick panel piece for the rear seat so I can get to that section of the pan. |
Hey, that's cool. Not everybody has the skills to do this kind of work. At least you've made up your mind how you're going to attack it, and have a game plan in place. That's all we can ask for. Like Jason, I like to see original pans repaired, but most of mine have always been too far gone to do that. And living in the "salt belt", you definitely want to keep all the water out, and the metal sealed as best as you can.
Are you going to strip off all of the "re-spray paint"? Or are you going to take as much of it off as you can, then fix the worst spots to blend it all together? Just curious. I think someone from California was doing that to a Square this past summer using Easy Off oven cleaner. But we never saw the end result (she quit posting). Her car went from blue, back to orange, where she got most of the resprayed paint off.  |
Where am I conceding skills here? Because I'm using an IPS West piece? Not a gerson? Or an OG pan piece? I'm trying to save every bit of savable original metal I can... Let me know where you're coming from. I'm in this to do it right.
My plan is to strip back the paint that's been put over top of the OG paint as best I can to see what sort of shape the OG paint is in. If it's in good enough shape I'll keep it where I can. That said, I know that there'll be an area on the driver side that will have damage and likely poor OG paint. There's also a couple of other rust areas that I plan to weld in patches for (I need to post up some pics of those areas) and for that I'll spot blend in to the OG paint. But if the OG paint ends up too rough then I may strip the body and do a full repaint. Right now the OG paint route seems promising, but I really won't know until I dive into it more. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22727
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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| cdollar wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| That is a nice rear deck! Some 1/4 patch pans from ISP West and Master Series silver & black for the pans & chassis? |
My thoughts exactly!
Only problem here is I was planning to only use the ISP parts to replace the passenger side batter try and driver side under-seat area (planning to chase pinholes and make custom patches for the other smaller holes), but I was shipped a passenger side under-seat pan piece instead of a driver side (as best I can tell). Bummer!! I just got the parts from ISP West on Monday and didn't notice and email them about the error until yesterday so I'm not expecting to hear back until after the holidays. But hopefully I'll get that worked out.
In the mean time I've already patched/filled 99% of the forward part of the driver side pan (all mig welded & ground), and next up is removing the kick panel piece for the rear seat so I can get to that section of the pan. |
Hey, that's cool. Not everybody has the skills to do this kind of work. At least you've made up your mind how you're going to attack it, and have a game plan in place. That's all we can ask for. Like Jason, I like to see original pans repaired, but most of mine have always been too far gone to do that. And living in the "salt belt", you definitely want to keep all the water out, and the metal sealed as best as you can.
Are you going to strip off all of the "re-spray paint"? Or are you going to take as much of it off as you can, then fix the worst spots to blend it all together? Just curious. I think someone from California was doing that to a Square this past summer using Easy Off oven cleaner. But we never saw the end result (she quit posting). Her car went from blue, back to orange, where she got most of the resprayed paint off. |
Where am I conceding skills here? Because I'm using an IPS West piece? Not a gerson? Or an OG pan piece? I'm trying to save every bit of savable original metal I can... Let me know where you're coming from. I'm in this to do it right.
My plan is to strip back the paint that's been put over top of the OG paint as best I can to see what sort of shape the OG paint is in. If it's in good enough shape I'll keep it where I can. That said, I know that there'll be an area on the driver side that will have damage and likely poor OG paint. There's also a couple of other rust areas that I plan to weld in patches for (I need to post up some pics of those areas) and for that I'll spot blend in to the OG paint. But if the OG paint ends up too rough then I may strip the body and do a full repaint. Right now the OG paint route seems promising, but I really won't know until I dive into it more. |
I think you misinterpreted what Bob said. The "skills" thing was in general, I think. His point was that most people just dive in without a plan because they've never done this sort of thing before and therefore lack the skills to even be able to plan a restoration.
Nothing wrong with the ISP pans.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
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Soul Built
Pimpin' Aint Easy
Joined: August 28, 2004
Posts: 1636
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:53 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| That is a nice rear deck! Some 1/4 patch pans from ISP West and Master Series silver & black for the pans & chassis? |
Only problem here is I was planning to only use the ISP parts to replace the passenger side batter try and driver side under-seat area (planning to chase pinholes and make custom patches for the other smaller holes), but I was shipped a passenger side under-seat pan piece instead of a driver side (as best I can tell). Bummer!! I just got the parts from ISP West on Monday and didn't notice and email them about the error until yesterday so I'm not expecting to hear back until after the holidays. But hopefully I'll get that worked out.
In the mean time I've already patched/filled 99% of the forward part of the driver side pan (all mig welded & ground), and next up is removing the kick panel piece for the rear seat so I can get to that section of the pan. |
Hey, that's cool. Not everybody has the skills to do this kind of work. At least you've made up your mind how you're going to attack it, and have a game plan in place. That's all we can ask for. Like Jason, I like to see original pans repaired, but most of mine have always been too far gone to do that. And living in the "salt belt", you definitely want to keep all the water out, and the metal sealed as best as you can.
Are you going to strip off all of the "re-spray paint"? Or are you going to take as much of it off as you can, then fix the worst spots to blend it all together? Just curious. I think someone from California was doing that to a Square this past summer using Easy Off oven cleaner. But we never saw the end result (she quit posting). Her car went from blue, back to orange, where she got most of the resprayed paint off. |
Where am I conceding skills here? Because I'm using an IPS West piece? Not a gerson? Or an OG pan piece? I'm trying to save every bit of savable original metal I can... Let me know where you're coming from. I'm in this to do it right.
My plan is to strip back the paint that's been put over top of the OG paint as best I can to see what sort of shape the OG paint is in. If it's in good enough shape I'll keep it where I can. That said, I know that there'll be an area on the driver side that will have damage and likely poor OG paint. There's also a couple of other rust areas that I plan to weld in patches for (I need to post up some pics of those areas) and for that I'll spot blend in to the OG paint. But if the OG paint ends up too rough then I may strip the body and do a full repaint. Right now the OG paint route seems promising, but I really won't know until I dive into it more. |
I think you misinterpreted what Bob said. The "skills" thing was in general, I think. His point was that most people just dive in without a plan because they've never done this sort of thing before and therefore lack the skills to even be able to plan a restoration.
Nothing wrong with the ISP pans. |
I agree with Tram, I think Bob was commending you for having a gameplan when most people do not.
Anyhow, very cool car. I tried taking my Notch down to OG paint and got a similar result by way of old bondo hiding under the respray. The front fender was cool but the door and rear had filler in them to cover very minor damage...ended up painting the whole car.
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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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| Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 8:18 am Post subject: |
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| Soul Built wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| That is a nice rear deck! Some 1/4 patch pans from ISP West and Master Series silver & black for the pans & chassis? |
Only problem here is I was planning to only use the ISP parts to replace the passenger side batter try and driver side under-seat area (planning to chase pinholes and make custom patches for the other smaller holes), but I was shipped a passenger side under-seat pan piece instead of a driver side (as best I can tell). Bummer!! I just got the parts from ISP West on Monday and didn't notice and email them about the error until yesterday so I'm not expecting to hear back until after the holidays. But hopefully I'll get that worked out.
In the mean time I've already patched/filled 99% of the forward part of the driver side pan (all mig welded & ground), and next up is removing the kick panel piece for the rear seat so I can get to that section of the pan. |
Hey, that's cool. Not everybody has the skills to do this kind of work. At least you've made up your mind how you're going to attack it, and have a game plan in place. That's all we can ask for. Like Jason, I like to see original pans repaired, but most of mine have always been too far gone to do that. And living in the "salt belt", you definitely want to keep all the water out, and the metal sealed as best as you can.
Are you going to strip off all of the "re-spray paint"? Or are you going to take as much of it off as you can, then fix the worst spots to blend it all together? Just curious. I think someone from California was doing that to a Square this past summer using Easy Off oven cleaner. But we never saw the end result (she quit posting). Her car went from blue, back to orange, where she got most of the resprayed paint off. |
Where am I conceding skills here? Because I'm using an IPS West piece? Not a gerson? Or an OG pan piece? I'm trying to save every bit of savable original metal I can... Let me know where you're coming from. I'm in this to do it right.
My plan is to strip back the paint that's been put over top of the OG paint as best I can to see what sort of shape the OG paint is in. If it's in good enough shape I'll keep it where I can. That said, I know that there'll be an area on the driver side that will have damage and likely poor OG paint. There's also a couple of other rust areas that I plan to weld in patches for (I need to post up some pics of those areas) and for that I'll spot blend in to the OG paint. But if the OG paint ends up too rough then I may strip the body and do a full repaint. Right now the OG paint route seems promising, but I really won't know until I dive into it more. |
I think you misinterpreted what Bob said. The "skills" thing was in general, I think. His point was that most people just dive in without a plan because they've never done this sort of thing before and therefore lack the skills to even be able to plan a restoration.
Nothing wrong with the ISP pans. |
I agree with Tram, I think Bob was commending you for having a gameplan when most people do not.
Anyhow, very cool car. I tried taking my Notch down to OG paint and got a similar result by way of old bondo hiding under the respray. The front fender was cool but the door and rear had filler in them to cover very minor damage...ended up painting the whole car.
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You're probably right... My apologies for reading to much into what Bob was writing.
I'm hoping that any filler I find stripping back the paint is limited to that driver side door and back from there to the fender. Really hoping! When I stripped my old single cab back to it's OG paint I came across a ton of (what seemed like) unnecessary skim coat that really complicated the process. But I figure what the hell... Going for the OG paint is a fun experiment and worst case I'm just stripping the car for another repaint the hard way.
But I don't plan to mess with the paint much more here in the short term. I want to get all the welding done on the pans so I can give it all a coat of masterseries. Once I'm done with that I'll have a better surface for getting in under the dash and sorting through some of the "custom" wiring done to it over the years. |
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65Nsqback
Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2004
Posts: 1256
Location: Grantsville UT
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| Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:11 am Post subject: |
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Very cool I remember this car nice to see it getting some love 
This is one a of my favorite cars that's popped up over the years a big button Birch Green Square don't see manny of theses that's for sure. In fact it's the only one I know of
Looks like your well on your way and it sounds like you know what your doing and have a plan for what you want it to look like when it's done so carry on carry on  Ill be watching
_________________
Wow look at that THAT'S A "SHOW CAR"!!
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you can't be something your not...be your self by your self stay away from me
__________________________________
I'm Trying to help you.......but you don't hear me... |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Soul Built wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| That is a nice rear deck! Some 1/4 patch pans from ISP West and Master Series silver & black for the pans & chassis? |
Only problem here is I was planning to only use the ISP parts to replace the passenger side batter try and driver side under-seat area (planning to chase pinholes and make custom patches for the other smaller holes), but I was shipped a passenger side under-seat pan piece instead of a driver side (as best I can tell). Bummer!! I just got the parts from ISP West on Monday and didn't notice and email them about the error until yesterday so I'm not expecting to hear back until after the holidays. But hopefully I'll get that worked out.
In the mean time I've already patched/filled 99% of the forward part of the driver side pan (all mig welded & ground), and next up is removing the kick panel piece for the rear seat so I can get to that section of the pan. |
Hey, that's cool. Not everybody has the skills to do this kind of work. At least you've made up your mind how you're going to attack it, and have a game plan in place. That's all we can ask for. Like Jason, I like to see original pans repaired, but most of mine have always been too far gone to do that. And living in the "salt belt", you definitely want to keep all the water out, and the metal sealed as best as you can.
Are you going to strip off all of the "re-spray paint"? Or are you going to take as much of it off as you can, then fix the worst spots to blend it all together? Just curious. I think someone from California was doing that to a Square this past summer using Easy Off oven cleaner. But we never saw the end result (she quit posting). Her car went from blue, back to orange, where she got most of the resprayed paint off. |
Where am I conceding skills here? Because I'm using an IPS West piece? Not a gerson? Or an OG pan piece? I'm trying to save every bit of savable original metal I can... Let me know where you're coming from. I'm in this to do it right.
My plan is to strip back the paint that's been put over top of the OG paint as best I can to see what sort of shape the OG paint is in. If it's in good enough shape I'll keep it where I can. That said, I know that there'll be an area on the driver side that will have damage and likely poor OG paint. There's also a couple of other rust areas that I plan to weld in patches for (I need to post up some pics of those areas) and for that I'll spot blend in to the OG paint. But if the OG paint ends up too rough then I may strip the body and do a full repaint. Right now the OG paint route seems promising, but I really won't know until I dive into it more. |
I think you misinterpreted what Bob said. The "skills" thing was in general, I think. His point was that most people just dive in without a plan because they've never done this sort of thing before and therefore lack the skills to even be able to plan a restoration.
Nothing wrong with the ISP pans. |
I agree with Tram, I think Bob was commending you for having a gameplan when most people do not. |
Yes to both to what Tram and Kevin said. We've seen a bunch of people start digging in without a plan or skills, only find out a month later the project is for sale and it ends up in the "whine thread" (sticky at the top of the page).
You've got a very cool project going, and I'll keep watching the results as you post them up.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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| Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Soul Built wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| cdollar wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| That is a nice rear deck! Some 1/4 patch pans from ISP West and Master Series silver & black for the pans & chassis? |
Only problem here is I was planning to only use the ISP parts to replace the passenger side batter try and driver side under-seat area (planning to chase pinholes and make custom patches for the other smaller holes), but I was shipped a passenger side under-seat pan piece instead of a driver side (as best I can tell). Bummer!! I just got the parts from ISP West on Monday and didn't notice and email them about the error until yesterday so I'm not expecting to hear back until after the holidays. But hopefully I'll get that worked out.
In the mean time I've already patched/filled 99% of the forward part of the driver side pan (all mig welded & ground), and next up is removing the kick panel piece for the rear seat so I can get to that section of the pan. |
Hey, that's cool. Not everybody has the skills to do this kind of work. At least you've made up your mind how you're going to attack it, and have a game plan in place. That's all we can ask for. Like Jason, I like to see original pans repaired, but most of mine have always been too far gone to do that. And living in the "salt belt", you definitely want to keep all the water out, and the metal sealed as best as you can.
Are you going to strip off all of the "re-spray paint"? Or are you going to take as much of it off as you can, then fix the worst spots to blend it all together? Just curious. I think someone from California was doing that to a Square this past summer using Easy Off oven cleaner. But we never saw the end result (she quit posting). Her car went from blue, back to orange, where she got most of the resprayed paint off. |
Where am I conceding skills here? Because I'm using an IPS West piece? Not a gerson? Or an OG pan piece? I'm trying to save every bit of savable original metal I can... Let me know where you're coming from. I'm in this to do it right.
My plan is to strip back the paint that's been put over top of the OG paint as best I can to see what sort of shape the OG paint is in. If it's in good enough shape I'll keep it where I can. That said, I know that there'll be an area on the driver side that will have damage and likely poor OG paint. There's also a couple of other rust areas that I plan to weld in patches for (I need to post up some pics of those areas) and for that I'll spot blend in to the OG paint. But if the OG paint ends up too rough then I may strip the body and do a full repaint. Right now the OG paint route seems promising, but I really won't know until I dive into it more. |
I think you misinterpreted what Bob said. The "skills" thing was in general, I think. His point was that most people just dive in without a plan because they've never done this sort of thing before and therefore lack the skills to even be able to plan a restoration.
Nothing wrong with the ISP pans. |
I agree with Tram, I think Bob was commending you for having a gameplan when most people do not. |
Yes to both to what Tram and Kevin said. We've seen a bunch of people start digging in without a plan or skills, only find out a month later the project is for sale and it ends up in the "whine thread" (sticky at the top of the page).
You've got a very cool project going, and I'll keep watching the results as you post them up. |
Understood. I know what you mean. And thanks. |
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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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| Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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I don't have much progress to report for today. Started with carefully removing the rubber mat covering on the rear seat kick panel. It's amazing how well the glue was still holding after all these years! The driver side came off in great shape, but the passenger side had a couple of cracks that opened up a bit more. I'd say they're in pretty good shape all things considered.
Then I started removing the kick panel metal itself, which ended up taking way longer than I thought. The bottom flange where the panel is welded to the pan was pretty rusted and thin, and will take some more metal repair before I can re-install it. The upper curved flange over the tunnel was in great shape, and I managed to drill out those spot welds.
There's a couple more pics of the process in the gallery.
Then I removed the 2 mounting bracket pieces on the passenger side and set the pan pieces in just to see how things would line up. Looks plenty workable to me. Next up is a bit more pre-fit, and then I think I'm going to weld the 2 pan pieces together so I can do the final fit and install as 1 unit.
Pan pieces set in place
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bobnorman
Samba Newfoundlander
Joined: August 09, 2010
Posts: 1389
Location: Newfoundland
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| Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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Hey there, nice car, and looks to be fairly solid. I have a 64 Birch Green, and my plan is pretty much the same as yours. Restore it to stock (as you say-stock is where it’s at), and strip off the re-spray to get the OG paint back. Great job so far, you’re flying along with this car by the looks of it.
I’ve done some stripping with Goof Off , lacquer thinner, razor blades and 0000 wool, I have also ran into swirl marks stained with primer in the softened paint. I have an area on the lower rear pax side ¼ that looks as if it were burned that I’ll have to retouch. But, I recently bought 10 spray cans of L-511, from a guy here on the Samba. He bought it for a similar strip and touch up project, but discovered that he had ordered the wrong colour. He had 15 cans, so he probably still has five left. I can PM you with his info if you’re interested.
Also, I guess you’ve checked out this thread…. The missus stripping the Ghia vert on page 31 was pretty inspiring, particularly the two After pics at the bottom of the page.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7...;start=600
I’m inclined to agree with Ev about the Canadian clues, the 1500 instead of Variant being a big one, along with the MPH and sealed beams, could be a tourist delivery? Also, I have M445-cannot be identified- as well, a few of us have been working on a theory that that is a kind of blanket Canadian equipment code. MonT3 has a 63 with the M-445 and is also showing Germany as country of destination,
I have not had the luxury of time to get at mine like I want to yet..,.aside from a few little things like the pushbutton rebuild, but I’m not in a rush. I’m hoping to get to it sometime soon, although I have twins coming my way so I could be delusional about that. Best of luck with it, looking forward to updates. |
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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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| Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 10:55 am Post subject: |
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| bobnorman wrote: |
Hey there, nice car, and looks to be fairly solid. I have a 64 Birch Green, and my plan is pretty much the same as yours. Restore it to stock (as you say-stock is where it’s at), and strip off the re-spray to get the OG paint back. Great job so far, you’re flying along with this car by the looks of it.
I’ve done some stripping with Goof Off , lacquer thinner, razor blades and 0000 wool, I have also ran into swirl marks stained with primer in the softened paint. I have an area on the lower rear pax side ¼ that looks as if it were burned that I’ll have to retouch. But, I recently bought 10 spray cans of L-511, from a guy here on the Samba. He bought it for a similar strip and touch up project, but discovered that he had ordered the wrong colour. He had 15 cans, so he probably still has five left. I can PM you with his info if you’re interested.
Also, I guess you’ve checked out this thread…. The missus stripping the Ghia vert on page 31 was pretty inspiring, particularly the two After pics at the bottom of the page.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7...;start=600
I’m inclined to agree with Ev about the Canadian clues, the 1500 instead of Variant being a big one, along with the MPH and sealed beams, could be a tourist delivery? Also, I have M445-cannot be identified- as well, a few of us have been working on a theory that that is a kind of blanket Canadian equipment code. MonT3 has a 63 with the M-445 and is also showing Germany as country of destination,
I have not had the luxury of time to get at mine like I want to yet..,.aside from a few little things like the pushbutton rebuild, but I’m not in a rush. I’m hoping to get to it sometime soon, although I have twins coming my way so I could be delusional about that. Best of luck with it, looking forward to updates. |
I just took a look at the thread on your car - Nice! And an interesting story too.
I have seen that thread, and I really need to go through it all again. I love those before and after pics! I've not been able to find any more of the Jasco Green Strip stuff I've used in the past, so I need to get some ideas of some substitutes. I think I may have some Goof Off in the garage so I'll give that a try next time I dig into the paint. From all I can tell they did little if any prep work when the car was repainted the darker, metallic-ish green (didn't even remove the rear bumper!), so hopefully the stripping will be worth it in the end. This thread has a few pics from when I stripped my old single cab back to OG paint (you can see my square tucked back in the garage in one of the pics) http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4991394&highlight=#4991394
The Canadian thing is interesting. IIRC there was more than just some canadian money in the glovebox when I bought it (receipts or maps maybe?), so between that and the other clues it very well could be. I need to dig out all that old paperwork and whatnot on the car and go through it all again.
My square has obviously sat for quite a while, but it's been a blast getting started on it. I'm not in any real rush either… Just trying to keep moving forward with it and keep it fun. I've had a bunch of time off work for the holidays so it seemed like a good time to jump into the project. Insulating and heating the garage this last year helped my motivation too! Thanks for the support! |
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cdollar
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 293
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
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| Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:51 am Post subject: |
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I got started on the fit and install of the passenger pan quarter this week. Full disclosure… I still consider myself a welding novice, so my welds don't look all that great in some areas, have some burn throughs, etc. But hey, I'm learning, and more practice is the only way I'll get better.
My first step was to begin to test fit the battery tray portion. The original battery tray looked like it had been punched by rocks or something pretty bad and was really bent out of shape. After getting the shape of the OG pan leftovers and patch panel somewhat decent I did a quick check to make sure the floor piece looked like it would line up OK, and then I welded the 2 pieces together.
At this point I still had about an inch of overlapping metal between the old pan and the patch. I started fitting the patch in, supporting it from below with my floor jack to help keep it level and in the correct place. Did a bit of hammer work to make sure the old and new pieces were snugged up tightly, had the same curve, etc., and then used clekos to attach the old and new metal where they were overlapping.
Full disclosure again… I've not done any pan replacement before. I've done some big patching in a single cab bed, installed a T2 dogleg, but nothing quite like this. The way the battery tray curves was really turning out to be a complicating factor in trying to make sure everything was lined up. The last thing I wanted to do was line everything up, make my cuts, and then have things end up not lining up.
So I took the approach of using a really thin cutoff wheel to go through both the new patch and leftover end of the OG pan. I made my cut 10-12" across, letting all the other remaining clekos outside of the cut line keep everything lined up. Next was to do any last tweaks with the hammer, etc. to make sure the panels where totally lined up, and then I started butt-welding that section of the seam.
After getting that section secure I started working around the perimeter. Now that I'm past the battery tray it's lining up much easier. These sections I've welded still need some finish work, and I've got one area that I blew through with the welder that needs a lot of work, but I'm happy with how it's coming along.
Just enough room from below to grind the seam (still needs some more grinding).
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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Your pans look good! About time to get out the Master Series to keep them from rusting and move on to your next fix? You could just use the silver now and save the black for later?
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Jason37
Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2004
Posts: 1028
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| Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:50 am Post subject: |
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| Nice work! And a quick question. Why would you use master series or similar product, rather than an etch prime and paint? (I am planning to etch prime mine, but if the master series is a better way to go, I will go that route) |
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65Nsqback
Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2004
Posts: 1256
Location: Grantsville UT
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| Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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Any updates
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Wow look at that THAT'S A "SHOW CAR"!!
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bad1916
Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2010
Posts: 224
Location: Camarillo ca
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| Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome car. It was built on my birthday. I kept hoping mine was as well but it's 1300 cars after yours.
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1963 SQUAREBACK |
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bobnorman
Samba Newfoundlander
Joined: August 09, 2010
Posts: 1389
Location: Newfoundland
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