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Axle Boots
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dcheek
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
I am curious to see how those axle boots hold up. After having seen many "quality" boots fail in as little as three months, I have switched to using the cheap EMPI accordion boots. No leaks, and they don't fall apart on their own. Plus, you can get them in all kinds of wonderful colors to match your custom bus. Very Happy


I'll let you know if I have any problems. I will tell you that the fit was perfect and the quality of the rubber was very good.

Dave
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&Dan
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
I am curious to see how those axle boots hold up. After having seen many "quality" boots fail in as little as three months, I have switched to using the cheap EMPI accordion boots. No leaks, and they don't fall apart on their own. Plus, you can get them in all kinds of wonderful colors to match your custom bus. Very Happy


I will second this- it's true.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, axles level, bus on ramps, use silicone and push in the small end clamp. How much do you push it in?
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Campy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just push it a little. The more rigiid side of the boot (seam) will keep you from pushing it in too far. As you are pushing on it, tighten the clamp.
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Who.Me? Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this is an old thread, but having just spent hours lying on my back in a cold, damp garage trying to fit a pair of split boots, I have to say that it sucks.

Probably not as much as fitting 'un-split' boots, but it sucks none the less.

Do VW own a trained octopus that I was supposed to rent for the day, to hold everything together, do up the world's smallest nuts, retrieve said nuts when they ping off across the garage, wipe up the sealant when the tube bursts and it all squirts out of the fat end (thanks Permatex - I'll remember to send you a Christmas card) and to fit the plaster on my thumb after I slice it open, and do it all before the sealant goes off?

Sorry, I needed to write this to regain my Karma.

And now I think I shall go and get drunk.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And I bet it still leaks after I've done this. Sad
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it stops leaking it is probably out of oil.
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to pull my splitcase trans this winter for a rebuild and would like to hear the latest opinions on the best axle boots?

Febi?

Some un-split boots would be nice.
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esde
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

StockNazi wrote:
Going to pull my splitcase trans this winter for a rebuild and would like to hear the latest opinions on the best axle boots?

Febi?

Some un-split boots would be nice.


I use the ones from Wolfsburg West whenever I have to do them and have the opportunity to have the trans out of the car. They hold up to this method of installation pretty well. IF you go this route, remember to turn the boot inside out before stretching it over the bell..

Link

I have tried some other non split boots that weren't tough enough, and ripped. Ended up pressing the ends off for those, not a problem for a straight axle trans, but more of a pain for those with reduction boxes
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who.Me? wrote:
I know this is an old thread, but having just spent hours lying on my back in a cold, damp garage trying to fit a pair of split boots, I have to say that it sucks.


I usually remove the rear wheels and do it from the sides - it's easier(?)
I never tried doing it from underneath.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Who.Me? wrote:
I know this is an old thread, but having just spent hours lying on my back in a cold, damp garage trying to fit a pair of split boots, I have to say that it sucks.


I usually remove the rear wheels and do it from the sides - it's easier(?)
I never tried doing it from underneath.

I've never pulled the wheels off to do this. I have this concern of working under a vehicle without wheels. I worry that they might fall off the jack or axle stands. If I do work under a jacked up bus, I always put things under the frame rails. I've been in a few sturdy earthquakes.

It's not so bad to change out the boots. I generally undo the clamps and cut the old ones off over an oil drain pan. I have a fluorescent work light to see what I'm doing. Screw the split of the new boots together, then push it up against the tranny and snug the big hose clamp, last snug the small hose clamp.

If your garage floor is cold, lie on a piece of cardboard or carpet.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
If your garage floor is cold, lie on a piece of cardboard or carpet.

Ah, the poor man's creeper.
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Who.Me? Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for indulging my whinge Laughing

I had the wheels off and on stands, but forgot to jack the first side up to get the axle level while I put the boot on, so it refused to go over the flange on the gearbox - until I remembered the jack Rolling Eyes

My garage is about 10 x 20ft, so there isn't much room to work from either side, I had to keep climbing underneath too.

At least I got a decent work out.

I am a little concerned that the boots wouldn't pull together completely at their widest end. The seams are together where the bolts go, but the widest end where the clamp goes still have a gap. I tightened the clamps up well, but couldn't go any more for risk of cutting through the boot.

The seams are at 10 & 2, facing rearwards. I'm just hoping that they don't fill to the brim with oil, when in use?
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Culito wrote:
Clara wrote:
If your garage floor is cold, lie on a piece of cardboard or carpet.

Ah, the poor man's creeper.

Creepers are annoying. During a garage clean-out I found I had several, none of which I had bought. I gave them away.

I used to have one of those thin foam rollup mats, the kind you used for camping. Found that during the Maple Valley activity. It was nicer than carpet or cardboard, and as a bonus, did not absorb water. Very Happy
Took it to extract a 63 standard (attaching a tow bar means lying on the ground, probably damp ground) and while we weren't looking the annoying neighbor dog grabbed it and tore it to pieces. Evil or Very Mad

Do have a piece of carpet in the garage for this sort of thing, though. And a fold up vinyl covered pad, with handles

The oil level is abound the level of the bottom of the fill hole.
Often you have to push the rubber boot into shape before snugging the clamp.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who.Me? wrote:
... the sealant ...


Shouldn't need sealant.

I get zero leaks by only putting a tiny daub of silicone at each end of the castle blocks where the split is by the bell and axle. Put all the screws and first washer in first before lifting it to the axle. Rotate it to the o-clock after you do the seam where you are most comfy or like Clara said. Only start to smish the baby screws into the seam for the best seal. Use the worm type clamps to slide and pull the rubber together. Then when it's all in place, squirt a silicone cap over each second washer and nut to keep it till it rots away.

The EMPI (VW style not accordian) ones are the only boots that the seam actually meets without stressing. Why the others quit being built correctly I can't even comprehend.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Shouldn't need sealant..


I guess with the seams at 10 and 2, and the oil level at the filler, as Clara noted, it probably didn't need sealant as the seam will be above the oil level, but I wasn't sure how good the boots that I had were, and I wasn't sure if they filled with oil in use, so I played it safe.

The boots I used came as part of an axle seal bundle (I had to replace my RH hub seal).

I hadn't intended to use them until I found a one-inch hole in one of the boots on the truck.

The sealant I used was pertex blue, which is basically silicone.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
Culito wrote:
Clara wrote:
If your garage floor is cold, lie on a piece of cardboard or carpet.

Ah, the poor man's creeper.

Creepers are annoying. During a garage clean-out I found I had several, none of which I had bought. I gave them away.


My garage is carpeted with leftovers from the house. They used to be caked in sawdust, now they're caked in grease Embarassed

I also have a creeper, but it won't creep on the carpet, or the rough concrete underneath, so it sulks in the corner and occasionally trips me up. I think it might be doing that out of spite.
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