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winchin73blazinbaja
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Joined: June 26, 2014
Posts: 648
Location: Michigan
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 Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:45 am Post subject: |
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| everything you have shown in your threads seems much simpler to me. if not simpler it seems to be designed more functionally. |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:22 am Post subject: |
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I would agree. You start noticing it the moment you pop the rocker covers.
It doesn't get much simpler than this. Two end caps, a pair of rockers, a shaft, and a spring. No clips or shims to hold stuff in place like the bug rocker shafts. You might have noticed the zip-ties in the photo holding the pieces together. The zip-ties are strung though the holes that the studs in the head fit into, ultimately holding everything in place. I love the simplicity, and it works great for stock or mild builds that never see extremely high revs.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:01 am Post subject: |
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A short while back I stumbled across something that I found interesting. I was looking for old photos of Gates XT Commando and similar tires and found this picture.
First reason why it is interesting; National brand tires with the XT Commando name. This is the first reproduction of a Gates Commando style tire that actually bears the name XT Commando. National must have bought the rights to use the name or produced the tire under license or something. Very interesting indeed.
The second reason I find this picture interesting is that the buggy has the same exhaust manifold/header combination that I have. My initial intent was to wrap the exhaust behind and over top of the motor like the European Motorworks header. The above picture is at a poor angle to tell for sure, but it appears that there is a lot more breathing room for the blower between the converging exhaust tubes than I initially thought.
New school of thought: If my exhaust shown below happens fits inside of my rear cage (very tight squeeze) I will probably just run it and make a simple heat shield around the tubes near the blower. If it still doesn't fit inside my rear cage, I'll go back to my initial plan to route the exhaust European Motorwroks style. The LAST thing I want is to have the exhaust hang back farther than the cage. I would much rather bang the rear cage against something than crunch the header and have to weld, drill, and tap new exhaust bosses on the cylinder heads.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:47 am Post subject: |
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One of the things I have been dingkin' around with lately is the carburetor linkage. The factory linkages for the dual carbs are pretty cool. This one is salvaged from a '72 bus. You can tell because it has the carb synchronizer built into the drivers side of the linkage. Just take a socket and turn the self locking nut on the top to set the balance. Handy dandy high quality stuff.
Close up of the synchronizer
These linkages are all 42 years old now, and the ball sockets are worn, sloppy, and need replacing. Looks like Grainger industrial supply has a near exact match. I would have preferred a rivet style ball stud rather than a threaded one, but whatever. I can grind off the mushroomed riveted portion on the back side of the linkage, pull the old ball stud out, drill out the hole a little larger, and install the new one. It even comes with those hard to find locking clips to keep the ball joint from popping apart. A lot of buses are missing them because people remove them to pop apart the ball sockets, snap the ball socket back together when done servicing, and then chuck the seemingly redundant locking clip in the trash. Although the linkages usually hold together just fine without them, I prefer to have them for a little extra safety.
Here is a link to the part. Same price as most heim joint rod ends for aftermarket linkages sold at performance acvw stores. 
http://www.grainger.com/product/BANSBACH-EASYLIFT-...?$smthumb$
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Picked some parts for the T4 engine off a junk bus sitting in a bone yard. I yanked the rocker cover and breather chimney bail wires, thermostat, and distributor. More parts to clean up. 
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ORANGECRUSHer
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Joined: June 09, 2006
Posts: 2663
Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 5:37 am Post subject: |
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| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
The second reason I find this picture interesting is that the buggy has the same exhaust manifold/header combination that I have. My initial intent was to wrap the exhaust behind and over top of the motor like the European Motorworks header. The above picture is at a poor angle to tell for sure, but it appears that there is a lot more breathing room for the blower between the converging exhaust tubes than I initially thought.
New school of thought: If my exhaust shown below happens fits inside of my rear cage (very tight squeeze) I will probably just run it and make a simple heat shield around the tubes near the blower. If it still doesn't fit inside my rear cage, I'll go back to my initial plan to route the exhaust European Motorwroks style. The LAST thing I want is to have the exhaust hang back farther than the cage. I would much rather bang the rear cage against something than crunch the header and have to weld, drill, and tap new exhaust bosses on the cylinder heads.
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I have a VW buddy and we've been trying to figure out how to run an exhaust on this type 4 engine he just picked up. He has a few different styles he's picked up but none of them seem to work right. He has a stinger with dual flanges but it points them right at the oil filter. He also has "F" pipes which could work, but no exhaust system to mount to those. He's also interested in putting a small turbo on it in the future and would like to have provisions for that but the main thing is to just put an exhaust on it for now.
I was just curious where you got the headers in this picture. He has some stock headers with the heater boxes but they are so stinkin heavy and bulky. Are the pipes going into the heater boxes all one piece running through that cast aluminum(basically heatsink)? We're thinking if they were we could melt the aluminum off the heater boxes to lighten them up and have a set of headers that will clear the oil filter and fan shroud. Maybe that's what you have up there??
Last I talked to him he said there was a $70 exhaust system that would work with the "F" pipes he has so I told him that would prolly be a better way to go than fabbing an exhaust from scratch. Since then he wants me to visit again because he has some welding for me to do. Wonder if he already fingered this out? lol
Neat little engines though
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc |
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Bashr52
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Joined: July 16, 2006
Posts: 5666
Location: On an island in VA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:12 am Post subject: |
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| I ran that exact same exhaust on my type 4 powered Berrien Warrior. No clearance issues on the cage or engine. |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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| ORANGECRUSHer wrote: |
| I was just curious where you got the headers in this picture. He has some stock headers with the heater boxes but they are so stinkin heavy and bulky. Are the pipes going into the heater boxes all one piece running through that cast aluminum(basically heatsink)? We're thinking if they were we could melt the aluminum off the heater boxes to lighten them up and have a set of headers that will clear the oil filter and fan shroud. Maybe that's what you have up there?? |
I have the stock bus 72-74 heater boxes with the aluminum heat sink removed. They can be cut off or melted off. I know a guy who cut the sheet metal off and then threw them in a bonfire. The aluminum melted off. Worked well. Just clean the flanges up afterwords with a file and you will be good to go.
As for the header, I can't help you there. I don't really know anything about it. I got if from a guy who hoarded a lot of vintage VW parts. I'm sure this header hasn't been produced in years. Never seen anything quite like it for sale. You might have to keep poking around TheSamba classifieds, Pelican Parts, and Ebay. Stuff like it comes up once in a while. You might get lucky.
| ORANGECRUSHer wrote: |
| Neat little engines though |
Neat engines for sure. Ever see a T4 block next to a T1? Much larger. A good deal heavier as well. One case halve of the T4 weighs about as much as an entire T1 block.
| Bashr52 wrote: |
| I ran that exact same exhaust on my type 4 powered Berrien Warrior. No clearance issues on the cage or engine. |
Good to hear! The 295 is nearly identical to the Warrior as far a I can tell. You don't happen to have any pictures of that rig, would you? I'm always looking for inspiration. 
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Vanapplebomb
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ORANGECRUSHer
Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006
Posts: 2663
Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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| Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 7:28 am Post subject: |
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| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
| ORANGECRUSHer wrote: |
| I was just curious where you got the headers in this picture. He has some stock headers with the heater boxes but they are so stinkin heavy and bulky. Are the pipes going into the heater boxes all one piece running through that cast aluminum(basically heatsink)? We're thinking if they were we could melt the aluminum off the heater boxes to lighten them up and have a set of headers that will clear the oil filter and fan shroud. Maybe that's what you have up there?? |
I have the stock bus 72-74 heater boxes with the aluminum heat sink removed. They can be cut off or melted off. I know a guy who cut the sheet metal off and then threw them in a bonfire. The aluminum melted off. Worked well. Just clean the flanges up afterwords with a file and you will be good to go.
As for the header, I can't help you there. I don't really know anything about it. I got if from a guy who hoarded a lot of vintage VW parts. I'm sure this header hasn't been produced in years. Never seen anything quite like it for sale. You might have to keep poking around TheSamba classifieds, Pelican Parts, and Ebay. Stuff like it comes up once in a while. You might get lucky.
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I should have just waited. I went over last night and he has melted the aluminum off in his neighbor's bonfire. Person in question is Dave who I believe you know too.
Anyway, one of his pipes is missing the cast head fitting that orients and bolts the pipe to the head. He has a couple spares he cut off some other rigs so I told him it looked like those were originally given a couple heavy tacks and then brazed onto the pipes or even tigged with silicon bronze. If he can heat up one of his spares enough to get the brazing to let go he oughta be able to slide the fitting off and then I can braze it onto the pipe he wants to use that is missing one. Sound about right?
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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That is pretty funny you mention that because Dave posted some photos of a set he threw in a fire just a couple days ago. I actually got mine from him. He is a really good guy.
As far as the exhaust flanges that mate with the cylinder head, mine are fully welded onto the pipes. When your buddy goes to weld them back on, make sure he uses a cylinder head as a jig because they sit at a funny angle. Get it wrong and you will have fun trying to get the flanges to slide onto the exhaust studs.
I would fully weld the pieces together. Exhausts are heavy. Off-roading is bumpy.
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Vanapplebomb
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Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 8:51 am Post subject: |
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Looks like the distributor will need a bit of work. The fiber washer between the drive dog and housing has disintegrated. I can only imagine the other one inside of the housing isn't far behind. I'll have to replace both. Lucky the shaft doesn't have excessive slop in it, so the bushings are still good. Guess I will just take it apart for a good cleaning and replace the two fiber washers. I will need a new cap and I will replace the points, rotor, condenser, and the shaft o-ring for good measure. That way I will start everything off fresh since I am uncertain about their condition.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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Got some ignition parts the other day to replace some stuff on the distributor. Rotor, breaker points and cam grease, condenser, and a coil as well. Also ordered a wire set which should be in soon.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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I measured the resistance of the two rotors that I have. The black one is the mystery rotor which was in the distributor when I picked it off a junkyard bus. The orange one is the new one I just got. The original Bosch rotors had internal resistors with about 5k ohms of resistance. The replacement I got measured in at 5.26k ohms, which is within the correct range. The mystery black one that was in the distributor when I found it was 141.2k ohms, way off. Either the resistor was burnt out in it, or it was the wrong rotor entirely. Good thing I decided to get fresh parts to be on the safe side. When in doubt, chuck it out.
New Rotor:
Old Mystery Rotor:
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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I also measured the resistance of the new coil. Coils are pretty generic and there are a ton of them out there that fit VW/Porsche engines. The original system did not have an external ballast resistor. Instead, there was a resistor installed internally on the primary (12v) side of the coil to increase the resistance to limits the current draw. Original Bosch black coils had a primary resistance of 3 ohms, but those have been NLA for ages. The replacement Bosch blue coils available today have a 3.4 ohm primary. The aftermarket coil I got also has a 3.4 ohm primary resistance. Bosch black original coil secondary (high voltage) resistance was 5.7k ohms and the Bosch blue replacement has 7.79k ohms which will produce a hotter spark than the original because of the higher turns ratio. The aftermarket coil I got has a 7.97k ohm resistance, so the spark will likely be slightly hotter than the Bosch blue coils, but not as hot as performance racing coils like the Pertronix flame throwers with 9.5-10k ohm secondaries. The coil I got is a nice happy medium, which is good news. As for durability, it is oil filled like most standard coils, so it will cool well, but won't be as resistant to vibration as epoxy filled performance coils. This could be an issue long term off road, but we will see.
Primary:
Secondary:
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Fishmaster85
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Joined: November 17, 2014
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Location: Pismo Beach
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| Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:37 am Post subject: |
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| nice build, lots of info. |
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Vanapplebomb
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ORANGECRUSHer
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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Just ordered four of these guys to refresh the dual carburetor linkage. Should be in Friday morning. Then I can get to work drilling out the old ball studs and replicating the two ball socket linkage arms. With some fresh hardware the dual carb linkage should be good as new.
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Vanapplebomb
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