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Putting together a toolbox...
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GraysonM
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm lucky, I've inherited a lot of snap on, Hazet, Mac, and Matco tools from my father, but it's expensive stuff, and if I had to buy tools, there's no way I could afford everything he's bought over the years.

Craftsmen is good stuff, but after using snap on, the difference is easy to tell.

I tend to think of nice tools like nice stereos. Your stereo sounds great...until you hear someone's nicer (and usually more expensive) set up. Then you cant help but hear everything wrong with your rig. Same is true for tools.

before you go out and buy all nice tools, make sure wrenching on your car is something you actually want to do. If you've bought a beetle I'd imagine that you've probably already committed to it to some degree. Buying a mechanics tool set like the one craftsmen or kobalt makes is a great way to get a lot of tools quickly and affordably. Over time you'll know what you want more from and upgrade those.

BluePoint is a subsidiary of Snap-on that make great tools of very similar quality to Snap-on, but are usually more affordable.

Slightly off-topic, but can someone give some testimonials as to the S/K stuff? I've got experience with a lot of other tools but not a ton with their stuff. Hows it compare to Matco or MAC? USA made?

Thanks guys!
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1970VWGUY
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get the back drums off & on you need a 36mm or 1 7/16 socket and a torque wrench...
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strelnik
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gt1953 wrote:
Did anyone mention a feeler gauge or two.


Feeler gauge is definitely important!


I recommend a MAPP gas torch instead of propane with a finer tip.

MAPP is about 12.00 a tank, but when you have to remove stubborn parts through heatoing, it is better in many cases than acetylene and propane doesn't count.

MAPP gas with a slightly finer torch tip can heat even a small nut and make it very easy to remove.

Just don't pick it up bare handed from the floor lol!

I learned this from a guy who uses acetylene and lead to fix rusted body panels. He's a little slow, but the work has no Bondo!
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strelnik
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gt1953 wrote:
Did anyone mention a feeler gauge or two.


Feeler gauge is definitely important!


I recommend a MAPP gas torch instead of propane with a finer tip.

MAPP is about 12.00 a tank, but when you have to remove stubborn parts through heating, it is better in many cases than acetylene and propane doesn't count.

MAPP gas with a slightly finer torch tip can heat even a small nut and make it very easy to remove.

Just don't pick it up bare handed from the floor lol!

I learned this from a guy who uses acetylene and lead to fix rusted body panels. He's a little slow, but the work has no Bondo!
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a professional mechanic with 40 years experience you can consider what I have to say.

1st any tools that say drop forged and or were made in USA will work for you,and I will assume you know which standard sizes will work for metric. Many,many tools made here prior to 1970s such as Truecraft,wizard,blackhawk,Plomb,(which later became Proto), but my favorite obsolete brand from way back was called "none better". So now days you find these at garage sales,estate sales,flea markets this stuff goes for cheap because people do not recognize these brands. For instance all the stuff branded Plomb carried a lifetime warranty which is still honored at any WW Grainger store, note Plomb went away in 1948, neat huh? SK tools went bankrupt and warrantee coverage is now impossible but that doesn't mean they aren't good tools, just don't break them. Craftsman tools have gotten worse over the years, try to get the older versions. When you get into the premium brands Snap On,Mac,Matco etc you'll do so much better buying used. Again check the auctions and especially better estate sales, and cities and towns in and around where there used to be major manufacturing, when these guys die off the kids sell it all.

If you got a minute ck eBay and use these parameters. 13mm snap on wrench. Buy it now. Or snap on VW tool. Doing it this way you avoid all the pages of bullshit auctions and go for a sure thing. Using this I've managed to buy many tools for less than 10 dollars and some for 5 which often times includes free shipping. One of the obsolete snap on wrenches was a transaxle wrench which fit between the frame horns to remove the fill plug or drain and the other end was 21mm box which fit generator pulley nuts. You'd be surprised what's out there if you have the time to look, getting back to flea markets,garage sales and the like that's where you'll get stuff really cheap. Look at this website www.garagejournal.com. Or. Www.collectingsnapon.com
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BUGGED11111
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just get the usual socket set, screw drivers pliers. Anything else I would buy as I need them.
No reason to shell out a ton of money all at once just to have a full tool box
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:31 am    Post subject: Re: Putting together a toolbox... Reply with quote

HankScorpio wrote:
If you just bought your Beetle and didn't have any tools, what should you buy for your toolbox (garage).?
Also which tools should be premium (eg snapon?) and which can be cheap (eg harbor freight)?
It's a bit late for me but I thought this might be an interesting post for the newbies if it hasn't been asked before


I know old John Muir sometimes gets a bad rap here but he did make a pretty good tool list, actually three versions. Beginner,intermediate, professional. Harbor freight is for guys that cannot discern what is good quality and shop for price alone. They do not give a shit about buying products from Red China. People that go there should be ashamed of themselves but I'll bet someone can rationalize it in some convoluted way that sounds trendy or hip. Fact I can buy anything that harbor freight carries used and usually American made. I like that. So it sounds like I may have some issues with that place Very Happy Ive been there and why does it smell funny in there?.
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RLFD213 wrote:
Wrenches, sockets and even screwdrivers. Don't go cheap on them. Find a snap on truck and try their stuff vs. the cheap crap. Even a Phillips screw driver has a different feel. Now with that out of the way. Stuff like hammers, pliers and other tools that may not be used often like feeler gauges , punches, chisels or bushing drivers you can buy cheap. I would spend money on a good torque wrench too, don't buy used on torque wrenches because you don't k ow if it has been dropped or something. Keep an eye on Craigslist for stuff.


Good advice I might add that when you store the torque wrench you release the pressure, take it back down to zero otherwise the spring under compression for long periods of times will take a set. This is per the manufacturer.

The click type or micrometer setting wrenches are the best. Used torque wrenches such as snap on can be sent back for calibration or in larger cities you might find a standards lab that will do it for you. I've seen used snap on torque wrenches go for less than twenty bucks, that's value. Again haunt eBay and pounce on the buy it now adds.
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