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allsidius Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010 Posts: 1475 Location: Norway
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 1:59 am Post subject: |
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Weezle wrote: |
Yeh just storing it there.
The castellated nut I suppose should only be tightened to the point the hole is visible. The nylock one could be screwed tighter. I don't think the urethane bushings meet in the middle unless I tighten it down further.
I have to see if there's a torque spec for these nuts |
If this is supposed to be fitted like the original setup, that is not true. The castellated nut is to be torqued to 270 Nm, which is a lot, THEN tightened further until one of the slots line up with the hole in the axle, normally just a few degrees. After replacing brake shoes on my rear drums, I did not have a torque wrench and only tightened till I could get the cotter pin in. After a while the drum worked slighly loose and chewed up my splines, so I ended up having to replace the stub axle as well. This needs to be tight, and I would go with the castellated nut. _________________ 1973 1303S w sunroof Click to view image
1978 1303 convertible (sold)Click to view image
1966 1300 RIPClick to view image
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:02 pm Post subject: Day 87 front struts and other stuff |
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So I decided to reassemble my painted struts with the new inserts and the topline springs. Initially I couldn't figure out how to fit the bump stops and dust covers on because they interfered with the spring compression gadget, but... I just compressed half the spring and it was enough and that allowed me to keep the rubber and plastic stuff on the strut shaft. Then I screwed down the top bolt using new bearings I packed with grease.
To torque this nut correctly, you need a 7/8" offset wrench and a hex head to put into your torque wrench. I'm guessing here that doing it this way will let me torque it down to the 43lbs needed
So these KYB GR2 strut inserts came with two cup shaped bearings each, one silver and large, one black and smaller. I needed the smaller black one on the first strut. On the second strut, guess what? neither bearing fit. There was a plastic sleeve in the strut tube. So I pried it out and guess what again? This tube now needed the larger silver bearing. So I can only assume the two strut towers came from different year cars? That probably explains the two totally different struts I found up front upon disassembly. here's some pics:
big silver bearing in place, spare smaller black one for comparison:
(edit: found the instruction sheet for the strut inserts and it is a year issue - black bearing is for 75-80 and silver is for 73-75)
big silver bearing, small black bearing and the plastic sleeve that I had to remove to make the larger bearing fit:
the taper of the topline springs toward the center makes using the spring compressor gizmo kind of tricky since there is little space inside the spring once the bump stop and dust shield are in place.
viola
other stuff: Welded shut the hole on the fan housing for the Gilmore a/c mod. plan to paint the tins with hammerite to cover up any marks from this mod and rust pits.
rebuilt steering rack and new tie rods/ends:
_________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight=
Last edited by Weezle on Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:31 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:40 am Post subject: Intructions are good |
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Weezle wrote: |
Yeh just storing it there.
The castellated nut I suppose should only be tightened to the point the hole is visible. The nylock one could be screwed tighter. I don't think the urethane bushings meet in the middle unless I tighten it down further.
I have to see if there's a torque spec for these nuts |
So found the instructions for this swaybar. Its a Bugpack 7/8" non lowered front bar. They want the sway bar end nylock nuts tightened to 22 ft lbs.
The instructions that came with the urethane bushings pointed out something I had not noticed: The metal sleeve inside the urethane bushings is about 0.2" longer for the swaybar bushing than the control arm bushing. I wasn't really paying attention when I installed them so I will have to pull it all apart to measure these. and maybe add some more of that special urethane grease everywhere.
(edit: after removing one of the track arms I realized there is no way to mistake the two metal sleeves that are inside the urethane bushings: The diameters are totally different and if reversed wouldn't fit - the swaybar sleeve is a much bigger diameter - I don't know why the instructions that came with it made such a big deal of checking the length. ) _________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight=
Last edited by Weezle on Fri Nov 28, 2014 5:14 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 5:11 pm Post subject: Day 89 - tunnel vision |
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Today I decided to tackle two problems within the tunnel that I've been reluctant to tackle:
1. the nasty splice in the fuel line at the shift junction cover plate and
2. friction between shift rod and one of the conduits deep in the bowels of the tunnel
The splice I fixed by removing the mystery fuel hose and replacing it with BMW quality high pressure hose from Bel Metric. The hose I removed was pretty crumbly and definitely hazardous - especially with the fuel injection pressure. I also ditched the screw type clamps for genuine oettinger type clamps. I then slit a 1" length of the hose and secured the spliced line to the intact line with a stainless tie wrap:
Although I think this is good for many years, I am quite worried about why that splice was needed in the first place??? Was there a leak? If so, is the rest of the line in bad shape? The lines "look" fine but who knows whats going on in the tunnel? Anyway I am really contemplating putting those nylon fuel line repair deals in there. I am NOT going to replace both steel fuel lines. No way in hell. So this problem is still not 100% fixed yet as far as I'm concerned.
Ok, onto the shift rod thing. This I find strange because I don't know how it happened unless I shifted something in the tunnel while replacing the shift rod into the bushing mount right at the shifter. It seemed that the shift rod was in conflict with one of the conduits in the tunnel, specifically the left side driver's foot well cable control conduit.
This conduit was the culprit:
Here's a tunnel shot, I needed the flashlight as it was way in the tunnel and the iphone flash couldn't reach it. Its way up there and you can see the shift rod right next to that conduit (it is NOT the nearer conduit - it only looks that way because the shift rod is dropped down onto the bottom of the tunnel in this shot, when lifted up it moves away from that nearer conduit but hits the one further in):
The reason I knew it was binding was because the shift rod wanted to fall to the right in the back under the access panel. Every time I tried to move it center inline with the hole in the pan where the tranny enters, it would make a banging noise from deep in the tunnel:
shift rod clear of obstruction over here:
but when in place here, it was rubbing the conduit:
There was really no way to get to that conduit to push it to the left so that it didn't rub the shift rod. It rubbed enough that it would definitely affect the force needed to shift the gears. And also wearing through that conduit would probably be a nuisance in the future as well. I couldn't get a clear view of it through the shifter mount hole as the bracket that holds the bushing was in the way. I could see it pretty clearly after removing the left heater control, but even my longest screwdriver couldn't really get to it to apply any leverage to move it over. After farting around with it for an hour or so I decided I needed a better view and access, so I did something I didn't want to do which was drill a hole in the tunnel. I used a 1.25" hole saw and drilled this access hole:
I left the disc of what was cut attached thinking maybe I could fold it back and maybe hold it in place with JB weld or MIG weld it, but it snapped off anyway.
Here's the clear view through that hole, a straight shot to the conduit in question:
The conduit in the foreground is the passenger foot well vent control cable and the one that is the problem is in the background running from the top left to bottom right. I managed to put the hole exactly where I needed it - lucky guess. Anyway I used a wooded handle and started tapping at that conduit, checking the shift rod as I went and working the heater controls to make sure I wasn't actually crushing the conduit. Luckily after a few hard taps it was out of the way and the heater cable was still good.
I'm thinking of sourcing a rubber plug for that hole. Its too small to make any structural difference.
Anyway I hope this post might help someone who encounters the same or similar issue.
I'm going to post a request for help regarding the nylon fuel line insert. I've read all the fuel line threads but still have some questions. I will post that in a more general section of the forum. Thanks for looking. _________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Dodgy Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 513 Location: Leicester, UK
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 2:22 pm Post subject: This is really weird... |
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So a while back I bought these nice powder coated backing plates for the rear brakes. I figured for the price it was worth it vs. cleaning, derusting and painting mine and the powder coat would be nicer anyway. So today I tried to work on the brakes:
what is wrong with this picture?:
Am I crazy or is there no way to get to the star adjusters for the brake adjustment?
Ok, so I'm thinking I will paint my old ones, but the holes for the adjusters on those are all tore to hell and the rubber plugs wont fit in there anymore:
Cip1 has new OE vw backing plates but they are pricey. At least the pic shows the adjuster holes.
And today my offset box end wrench arrived so I could torque down the nut on the strut bearing. Here is the Rube Goldberg device to torque the nut to 43 ft lbs:
So that's an offset wrench for the nut, a 1/4 " drive hex head socket for the shaft, a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter so that I could use my 1/2" drive torque wrench. Well it worked. _________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:01 pm Post subject: stub axles |
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So today I continued on the trailing arms, pulled out the stub axles. The grease seals weren't too easy: On the outer ones I had to use a chisel to bend the outer edges in to relieve the tight fit a bit then wacked it out from the other side with a chisel. You can hit it from the other side all you want, but it ain't going anywhere until you push the outer edges in toward the center to loosen it up. The rears I pried out with a chisel after cleaning up enough to make sure I wasn't prying the C-ring. That ring wasn't too bad, once a screw driver got under one end it pretty much popped of.
Gettting the bearing out I hit the side of the trailing arm where the bearing seats:
I had to smoothen it out with my dremel
You will be my hero if you can tell me how to get the inner bearing spacer off the stub axles:
maybe heat it up with a torch? I don't even have a torch _________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight=
Last edited by Weezle on Mon Dec 01, 2014 6:43 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Dwayne1m Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011 Posts: 3538 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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Propane torch at any Lowes/Home Depot will work, but I just loosened mine by first spraying a little penetrating oil on it and then taking a small chisel and gently tapped it away from the axle. Don't damage the sealing surface. You might have to take some fine sandpaper and smooth the axle surface so the spacer will slide off. |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Dwayne1m Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011 Posts: 3538 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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Kinda looks that way but my 78 was not a body off job, but my 74 is. |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 1:49 pm Post subject: Inner bearing spacer removal |
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In our last episode I had removed the stub axles but the inner bearing spacers seemed welded to the axles with rust and time.
I followed some advice given here with a little twist and got those suckers off. Here's a step by step:
1. Soak overnight in penetrating oil
2. Using a chisel very gently tap on the small gap between the spacer and
The cv bolt on flange area. By gently I mean about a dozen light taps while turning the axle to keep the forming gap the same size all around and avoid "jamming" the bearing cock-eyed on the axle
3. when the gap is about 2mm put your two largest screwdriver blades into the gap on either side. Pull up on on the handles and the bearing will break loose.
4. Turn the screwdrivers handles to move the bushing further.
It was also necessary to buff up the axle and lube it with penetrating oil. _________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Dwayne1m Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011 Posts: 3538 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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Yep. That's how it's done. |
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014 Posts: 685 Location: ORLANDO
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Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject: Rear Bearing pack and replace |
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On the left side of the car I stop to take a lot of pics so hopefully this will help another member. there is a description of this in the orange manual, but a better one is here:
http://www.vw-resource.com/rear_suspension.html#bearings
stuff you will need:
I used this grease:
fill the inner (ball) bearing with grease:
This is the place on the inside of the diagonal arm where the bearing goes. Notice a groove - that's where a spring ring type clamp goes to keep the bearing in there. Between the inner and outer bearings is a kind of cavern that you have to fill with 2oz of grease per the orange book. You can pack the walls of that cavern now.
It helps to have one of these bearing drifts, the kit is cheap at harbor freight:
push the bearing in as far as you can, then put the drift on it, then tap it the rest of the way with whatever you have. I think a dead blow hammer is ideal. I used a small sledge hammer.
The bearing is home. you can see the groove is now showing so that you can put the spring clamp in there
I used the circlip pliers to hold the ring smaller while I introduced it into the opening. Once the entire clip is contained within the opening, you can let go the pliers and gently tap it into position - it will snap into place in the groove.
These are the two smaller bearing spacers:
they are different and it matters. The one with the beveled inner edge goes on the axle with the bevel toward the CV joint. the one with the beveled outer edge goes in last just before or with the outer grease seal and the bevel is also toward the inside, touching the inner race of the roller bearing.
you can put the inner small bearing spacer on the axle and set it aside:
Thats the bearing I had to loosen up and slightly chisel off in an earlier post. I did get all new bearings and spacers. Used spacers will come in handy in a minute...
time to put the grease seal on, put it in the hole and use the same bearing drift to knock it home gently:
Now you can put the axle in from the tranny side obviously. Then you slide the large inner bearing spacer over the axle. You can see that there is a big gap between the large bearing spacer and the "wall of grease" you place in there earlier. this gap has to be filled up with grease.
fill it and use your finger to push it in the gap, and repeat until it doesn't want to accept any more grease:
Grease the outer (roller) bearing and slide it on the axle. Its tricky because unlike the ball bearing, the inner race on the roller bearing isn't held in place by anything. So here's the problem: you can't just drive the outer race in, nor just drive the inner race in, or at least I don't think its good for the bearing. I drove them it together, doing each a little bit at a time but keeping the inner race at least 50% within the bearing during the process. First put the outer small bearing spacer on, with the outer shoulder bevel facing in - that small surface is all that touches the inner race of the roller bearing.
Bearing on:
outer spacer on:
old middle bearing spacer is used as a tool here. then the axle nut is slowly screwed in. This will move the inner race further onto the axle shaft:
at some point the outer race will bind up and you'll have to start tapping on that to get it in
here both the used middle bearing spacer and a used smaller spacer are used and the axle nut tightened to drive the inner race all the way home
another few mm and the inner race should be home:
Here it is all the way home. The inner bearing spacer beveled shoulder can be seen. Beyond that is the inner race and its on the same plane as the outer race
this is the bearing cover inner surface. the outer grease seal was tapped into place from the other side and the inside of the seal was filled with grease:
backing plate and the o-ring goes on next:
grease seal and outer bearing spacer in place:
grade 10 bolts torqued to 43 ft lbs with washers and spring lock washers:
was planning to continue and put the brakes back together but the pin for the emergency brake lever didn't fit into the brake shoe. the hole in the shoe was too small. I have to drill it out a bit. Its the "super stopper" brake shoe from aircooled.net. I have a new pin, spring washer and clip, but just to be sure I tried the old pin and it too didn't fit so its the shoe not the pin.
I hope this helps someone else to do this job!
PS - IF ANYONE SPOTS AN ERROR HERE, PLEASE LET ME KNOW SO I CAN EDIT IT - I'M NOT A MECHANIC. you won't hurt my ego....its the first time I have done this procedure _________________ I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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