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Insulation / sound deadening thread FAQ
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force3g
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thread. I used Dynamat in my 1970 Westy. I covered every square inch possible, nothing in the engine bay. The doors close solid, no tinny sound. I was not concerned about the added weight of the product. I am thrilled with the results and highly recommend it. There are a lot of good products out there.
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:
http://www.lobucrod.com/

"3/16" closed-cell polyethylene foam core with 99% pure polished aluminum facings on both sides"

I've heard good things, but haven't tried it myself. That said, I am going to try them when I get to my interior overhaul. Some of their sample pics even show a few baywindows all done up with it. Hopefully im as happy as the muscle car guys have been with it...


Yea it was one of the first insulation's other than the name brand that I found. I found that its not great for places under pressure though. It pops like bubble wrap. I would avoid putting it on the floor.


Also MOD's think we could ad this to the tech thread? I included weight links and price to weed out as many questions and limit the amount of searching one would have to do. I think it will be helpful to a newbie in the future.
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matt94gt
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
anything that encourages moisture to wick between it and the body at the edges* is a problem. Something like jute provides sound deadening, thermal protection and it breathes.

It is inexpensive too.

*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capillary_action

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Im looking at insulating and sealing up my 72. I like the idea of putting something like this this in the panels such as you did, did you spray an adhesive and stick it down or is it just wedged in there? This looks like a good product to help with insulation (as I will be camping in the bus).

What about the vapour barrier, I dont see any posts on here regarding that. I want to make sure I dont trap moisture in the panels.

This product seems interesting, has anyone tried it here yet?
http://www.lobucrod.com/

Quote:
A major concern when restoring a vehicle is finding an insulation/sound deadening product that won't cause long term damage to the body of the vehicle. When using foam, cotton or jute backed products, unwanted moisture can easily be the cause of early deterioration in the floor of the vehicle. This insulation prevents condensation and will not absorb moisture. Therefore, it will not mold nor mildew like cotton, foam and jute backed products do. It stops up to 97% of radiant heat transfer, which makes it ideal not only for firewalls, but also for lining engine covers in boats and motor homes. In the winter months, automotive insulation will keep all your valuable heat in your car or RV, where you need it most. It is also an excellent sound deadener, so it will keep out unwanted engine and road noise. This insulation is extremely lightweight (40 sq. ft. weighs less than 2 pounds), totally non-toxic and cuts with scissors or a sharp knife.



What I am thinking

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/spectrum-1-gallon/ - For the floor boards
http://www.lobucrod.com/ - For the side panels
http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html - For the floor boards and other areas, I will just be adding squares and not covering the entire area
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Zelten
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have any experience with GTMAT? They have a 50SQFT kit 110 Mil thick for $145. That doesn't sound too bad for the thickness. But I have no experience with any sound deadening so I'm not sure if it's good or not. I figure the thicker the better.

http://gtsoundcontrol.com/shop/50-SQ-FT-GTMAT-110MIL-Car-Audio-Sound-Deadener.html
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interested in answers for above as well as al's sound deadner


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Y14Q96/ref=wl_it_dp_o...8ZL1DRYOWM
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moab762
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your looking for jute padding. (Someone was...) You can get it here for $3.50 and $5.50 a sq yd. One is thicker than the other. 3/8th's and 5/8th's. It's cheap!

http://www.albrightssupply.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=jute+pad&Submit=Search

But I'm leaning between a combo of Quick Roof, EZ Cool and carpet foam. This is in a type 1. I was considering jute in place of the EZ Cool though. Still haven't made up my mind.
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Ernie Punkin
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

What about a 2 or 3 combo of these items?

http://www.lobucrod.com/

with Dynamat Xtreme

and

Ensolite?

I'm a newbie with a 77 Westy being updated for serious long camping expeditions across Canada and in PNW. I'm must really curious about this topic, but reading the posts has my head spinning. Confused

There certainly aren't too many clear cut "formulas" or pre-determined recommendations to piggy back on it seems, or maybe I just have a lot to learn still. Embarassed

I'm going to have a glossy black marine paint on pop top - please don't cringe. Smile So any ideas anyone can share for minimizing heat transfer through the pop top would be welcome. This is in addition to heat insulation and at least some sound insulation (engine and road noise) in the main "cabin" and front cab areas.

Has anyone ever tried to put a fabric like TMI's mohair on top of any heat reflective material added to the underside of the pop top? I suppose the heat reflective material would have to be thin to avoid any closing/clamping down issues, especially if trying to add a fabric topping. The fabric idea is to hide the scary fuzzy stuff.

The shop working on my Ernie has tons of experience in van/bus projects. For now I'm really just curious to hear what the world of VW wizards has to say for this scenario - pretty extensive use the cool damp PNW and more time in that part of the world with just 2 1/2 months of summer, a.k.a. "Canada".

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Help pretty please?

Comments from another post:
Quote:

I liked working with the Dynamat. I found it easy to cut and install. The sticky layer doesn't appear as tacky as the Raam Mat, which makes it easy to reposition. Once it sets though, it will definately stay stuck. It also has a little stretch to it, which is nice to get into all the crevisis.

Pros:
- Readily available (Circuit City, eBay, etc)
- Thicker foil topper
- Thicker Butyl layer
- Easier to install because Butyl layer isn't as sticky initially

Cons:
- Sharp foil topper (I have cuts all over my hands and legs)
- Expensive

Raam Mat:

I found this mat a little more difficult to work with. The Butyl layer is quite gooey. It makes for a messy install. It is also VERY sticky - which means it is hard to position into small areas (like the inside of the doors).

Pros:
- Cheaper than Dynamat (it comes in a large roll)
- I like the additional Ensolite material - easy to install

Cons:
- Very sticky and hard to reposition
- Has more of a smell than Dynamat
- Not as thick as Dynamat

Overall I'm happy with my install. Installing the sound deadening really helps reduce the ambient sounds in the cabin and really seems to kick the stereo's sound up a few notches.

I think the Dynamat is a good product. I think the addition Ensolite material is what helps Raam Mat with overall sound deadening.

If I had to do the whole thing over again I would have purchased Dynamat as the Butyl layer and then purchased Ensolite as a topper.

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mojogoat
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm currently doing a promaster van, I'm using ezcool, closed cell foam, MLV, hard foam insulation and 3m thinsulate. Thinsulate is probably the best product you can use next to aerogel as it has the highest r factor and does sound proofing to boot. The foil covered butyl rubber stuff only needs to cover 25% of the panels, anymore helps but not that much. MLV is the main product to use for sound reduction but you have to decouple both sides of the MLV with some foam in order for it to work. So I'm ending up with butyl rubber,thin closed cell foam,MLV,thin closed cell foam, hardfoam, then thinsulate on both sides of the exposed panel. roof I'm using ezcool then thinsualte to keep it thin for max headroom. If money were no object I would use aerogel and thinsulate.
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moab762
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a handy chart I found about stick on sound deadeners:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And a recent long thread I contributed to. That went from "let's use the cheap stuff" to "there's a sale on second skin this friday at 30% off. and it's WAAAAYYY better than anything else I've looked at for the price.".

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7437778#7437778

I think bus' (I probably spelled that wrong.) have alot more options than bugs because of the vast square gaps and spaces to be covered. But if your just looking for a stick on sound deadener and some sort of heat shield. I don't think you can go wrong with either Raamat or Damplifier Pro (on sale black friday 30% off) coupled with EZ Cool. And then whatever carpet and padding you choose to finish the job with.

Second Skin (Damplifier Pro) also has some "B" quality amounts of sound deadener that is cheaper. Thickness is random. As is size of sheets. But it's discounted quite a bit. And with that 30% off sale on friday. I jump on it.

Here's the Second Skin sale:

http://marketing.secondskinaudio.com/admin/temp/newsletters/26/black%20friday%20email%20ad.jpg
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alikatcraig
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also check out the Noxudol site for their 3100 sound deadening product.
It sprays on as a thin coat, but has great sound reduction properties. Priced at $125/gal, but relatively light weight compared to Dynamat etc and no problems with glue coming unstuck on roof panels etc. Another benefit is it is waterbased. They seem to aim for large scale users (NYPD cars I believe is one). They also have a sprayable thermal barrier coat, but the minimum seems to be 5 gal. Interesting video demonstration of sound deadening on a box with an alarm bell inside. It also has rust prevention properties, so I may spray under the bus with it on the belly pans. Their cavity/black underbody wax products are the same as those used by VW in Europe. My bus cavities are swimming in wax!
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ultralite
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie Punkin wrote:
I'm must really curious about this topic, but reading the posts has my head spinning. Confused


Amen to that. I'm in the Southeast and our weather is fairly mild. I don't need the insulation temperature control my northern brethren may need for winter camping.

I'd like my long distance trips to be a little more quiet. I have this crazy idea of talking to the person in the passenger seat, not shouting.

I currently have my interior out for new carpet and upholstery. It would be an ideal time to put something down. But good grief the different opinions/methods on this topic. Shocked
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just pick the best you can afford on that chart. And go with what you can afford. I got some second skin on xmas sale. Otherwise I would have gone with Raamat. It seems to be the best midline product out there. And fairly inexpensive. Then some EZ Cool over that to help with heat and additional sound control. Maybe just over your engine bay and/or roof.
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BUSBOSS
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=373683
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Comparison between driver's door which has pieces of Reckhorn ABX (dynamat type material) in it vs the passenger side which doesn't.


Link

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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The great insulation/ sound deadening thread... Reply with quote

Reckhorn ABX

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Reflectix velcro'd on

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Home Depot Acoustical barrier (mass loaded vinyl)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 6:24 am    Post subject: Re: The great insulation/ sound deadening thread... Reply with quote

Pinetops wrote:
Reckhorn ABX

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Reflectix velcro'd on

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Home Depot Acoustical barrier (mass loaded vinyl)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Have you driven your Bus since this install? Thoughts?
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 6:49 am    Post subject: Re: The great insulation/ sound deadening thread... Reply with quote

Yep, there is a significant difference in engine noise. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 11:49 am    Post subject: Floor covering questions for my 68 bay Westy. Reply with quote

safedude wrote:
Hello, I am hoping someone can steer me to some threads or give advice on how to proceed. I am replacing the floor covering. The Z bed and floor is out. I was thinking about putting some stick on pipe wrap(the stuff at Home Depot) directly on the floor before putting the new plywood in. There is no rust or any problems with the floor panel. I'm hoping to achieve some sound deadening and thermal insulating. Any advice is much appreciated.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Floor covering questions for my 68 bay Westy. Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
safedude wrote:
Hello, I am hoping someone can steer me to some threads or give advice on how to proceed. I am replacing the floor covering. The Z bed and floor is out. I was thinking about putting some stick on pipe wrap(the stuff at Home Depot) directly on the floor before putting the new plywood in. There is no rust or any problems with the floor panel. I'm hoping to achieve some sound deadening and thermal insulating. Any advice is much appreciated.


Just consider if you use it on the floor and moisture gets under it, it will cause rust. The wood and floor covering and maybe a piece of carpet should cut down on a lot of noise coming through the cargo floor.

After doing a lot of research I would not use asphalt based materials. The kind home depot sells is asphalt as is the cheapest car specific types like low end Fatmat (fat mat also make higher quality sound deadending).

Butyl based is what you want. I shopped around a lot and the Reckhorn ABX is the best butyl type I found for the money.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 2:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The great insulation/ sound deadening thread... Reply with quote

Ordered some reckhorn and will be installing soon, I am still trying to decide what to install on the celling and side walls. I am leaning towards ezcool.
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