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Are deep sumps really needed
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WD-40
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

earthquake wrote:
Has any body ever made a sump that has tubes for air to flow through to help with cooling like a "True cool" automatic trans pan? I was working on my own deep sump and thought I add tubes in the pan for added cooling. I even thought about using a flat plate and bolting a Auto trans pan for the sump.

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/14200.html

Casey


For a formed sheet steel pan, running tubes through like that is a quick and easy way to add lots of surface area.

For cast aluminum parts, you just include external fins in your original castings and you're done, with no additional machining/welding steps needed.

I'm not sure the additional work to weld aluminum tubes into a cast aluminum sump would be worth it... nor am I aware of any formed steel VW deep sumps? Question
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Last edited by WD-40 on Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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modok
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Super-Oil-Suction-Kit-p/3058.htm
Max Welton wrote:
So you're saying it sucks but it works well? Laughing

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the concept is sound, execution is not perfect. They do not need to be made of aluminum.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vugbug68 wrote:
Sumps keep oil down at the pickup tube at all times, at least that's the idea. Before I added a sump, my oil light would come on from hard cornering. On my super I have a thin 1 liter sump that does the job.

X2
And forget about much cooling. As always, if it isn't broken don't fix it.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To answer the question about the tubes through a sump. I seen a modified Berg sump done with aluminum tubes by Ray Vallero in Auburn, Ca. It was on a friends car and he said it worked well.

This is one thing that is done on a off road racing engine for controlling oil slosh.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I have also use the BugPack Oil Suction Kit that Glenn mentions with a link to John's site showing it with good success in off road racing engines and my own engines. When you have clearance issues it works. Does not matter if it aluminum, it works and stays in place.

Dry Sump is really the best solution except for having to use a small crank pulley.
I really wish someone would start remaking the Cummins/Isky drysump pump. It was an offset pump that lowered the outside gears to clear a larger crank pulley. I know they work, I knew people that used them with great success. I have not seen one in use in many years. Petersens Publications did articles on them in the first VW book they produce and also the Off Road Fun Cars book.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some guys also have a lot of success with something like

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Mini-Sump-Kit-Type-1-2-and-3-Engines-3051-10-p/3051-10.htm
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Brian
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so 2110 that never goes over 5000k offroad, better without?

2180 that wont go over 5000k offroad, not needed?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just like steel because:
you can solder or braze on the pickup tube

Steel drainplate less likely to bust if hit, and less likely to strip the drain plug.

And prior bad experiences trying to weld aluminum oil pans back together Shocked
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advinnie
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all thanks for all the replys. I have decided to go ahead and use my 1.5L sump but I do have a question. Now once the engine has been put together and the sump fitted will it be ok (will the external sump take the weight) to stand the engine on the sump and to jack the engine up into position by placing the jack under the sump? I don't what to go through all the hassle of fitting the external sump then while jacking the engine up into position it cracks cause it can't take the weight of the engine. Do this makes sense ?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kind of hard to put a jack under it if the car is lowered Wink I've done it on my own cars, but jack it up on the lower shock mount is better Wink
Bergs have internal bracing on the 4qt's not sure on 1 1/2's?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok but what I'm getting at here is when installing the engine. Is it ok to lift the engine with a jack with the jack head on the sump plate witch is on the external sump. Will the sump take it if not how are after people installing there engine with the sump installed on them?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea I do it all the time,if it don't hold for that it ain't worth a fuck Laughing
don't see how else to pull a motor Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you said that cause that's hiw I was planning on lifting the engine back into the car it's just that someone had told me that the sump wouldn't take the weight of the engine and would collapse?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:28 am    Post subject: deep sump Reply with quote

In a lot of cases when a person installs a deep sump they will use the original stock mounting studs and the deep sump would have to be the same thickness where the studs come through as stock. If you set the engine on the new deep sump you have the possibility of cracking around the mounting holes especially if you tip the engine off balance due to the wider sump creating more leverage if the weight of the engine is not perfectly centered. Instant oil leaks. This can happen even with the thicker/longer stud mounting type deep sump by breaking the seal between the engine and the added on sump. This creates a "Weeping" type leak that is hard to find.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For peace of mine I would not jack the engine on the sump.I would install the sump after the engine was installed.But I'v never had a sump so take it for what it's worth.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That mini sump looks cool, but would be a bitch to balance a motor on.

Any suggestions as to who has the best mounting system for a deep sump? Do you ever modify what it comes with to something better? What to look for in mounting?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I install my motors with deep sump on and jack it up by the sump plate. No issues at all. Heck if a sump is as flimsy to break during an install it ain't worth putting on the motor. But it does make it a little harder to balance. A motorcycle jack is ideal.
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