The importance of choosing the correct oil weight.

[Quokka42]

I can't believe this is still going on.

Give it up guys - you will never convince them, it's like religion. It's not just VWs, either - lots of classic car people believe "my original owner's manual said single grade oil, so that's what I'm going to use." While theoretically it provides less lubrication by splash and being thrown out of the rods until the engine is warmed up, it is hard to measure the difference so the main disadvantages are cost and an increased chance of blowing your oil filter. The advantages are bragging rights and, um, ...
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There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross.

[michaeljsmyth]

I guess so much internet communication has clouded your idea of conversation, and the definition of some english words...

theres no point in bsing with you. you say it doesnt matter use whatever you want but your the one posting sarcasm and dissaproval of straight weight oil. along with the others that seem to believe straight weight is something no one should use.

again, get over yourself and dont be such a hypocrite maybe? and have a happy thanksgiving.
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The JBug

[EverettB]

Here are some vintage VW engine heaters from the classifieds:

There was a company named "Kats" that made a lot of them.
I have seen them NOS in the box a few times.

Pics from one of a few ads on here:

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http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/ignorant?s=t

[ig-ner-uh nt]

adjective
1. lacking in knowledge or training; unlearned: an ignorant man.

2. lacking knowledge or information as to a particular subject or fact:
ignorant of quantum physics.

3. uninformed; unaware.

4. due to or showing lack of knowledge or training: an ignorant statement.

Note that Ignorant != stupid, which is what a lot of folks think it means and then discussions get sidetracked.

[EVfun]

But let's be honest... Who in western WA, or central or southern CA, has seen a local Bug with an engine heater? I've seen lots of Bugs running straight weight oil in western WA, generally 30 in the summer and 20 in the winter, but I've never seen a local with an oil heater.
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[Wildthings]

[SBD]

[neil68]

Here's a reason that a block heater is needed...check out this video.

I realize that this shows 20W50 being poured at -20 C. or +7 F. However, the mid-70's VW Owner's Manual showed 20W50 being good down to -10 C. or +14 F. and my experience is that it is not a good choice even though was rated as such. Anyway descriptions such as "syrup" and "tar" are certainly appropriate:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmtSh4HMryw
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Neil.

Der Kleiner Rennwagens
68 Beetle 2332 cc, 204 WHP
12.5 seconds @ 107 mph
Dynojet Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo

[Wildthings]

[neil68]

[fivelugshortaxle]

[Kjell Roar]

[fivelugshortaxle]

Pulled pump cover last night and found my issue....more than. 004 play. Gears to pump body were. 004.....and I had a thick gasket on there. Cleaned off the mating surfaces and applied an almost invisible layer of loctite 518. Gear end play is now .oo4. I'll run it after this weekend's work shifts and see what it does.
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Good things come to those who wait.
2332 with lots of goodies....
Rotating assembly balanced by Brothers VW
4340 84mm crank
AA 94mm p&c' s
Total seal 2nd ring, rest are Grants
5.5 h beams
Magnum straight cuts
Steve Long XR310 on a 106
CB 1.4 rockers
CB Magnaspark 2 distributor
NGK D7ea plugs
A1 lowdown 1 3/4 with single muffler
Dellorto 48's with 40 venturies
Kennedy Stage 2 with Daiken disc

[mark tucker]

If your oil pressure is higher than 45lbs, the oil cooler will be "bypassed".[/quote] .So if my op is higher than that....I wonder how the cooler still gets hot... FYI the cooler is never out of the circuit.unless you remove the cooler.

An alternate metered galley is opened witch keeps the cooler from seeing all the cold thicker oil untill it gets a chance to start thining out and pushes the thick oil through the cooler slowly so the bearings dont starve and the cooler dosent launch into space...

[fivelugshortaxle]

[jason]

How do you know the 518 is .004 thick?

[SBD]

[fivelugshortaxle]

[blues90]

I have to say this topic on correct oil weight has me lost.

Why , because of all the countless different altered systems ( added coolers , added filters , race engines and on and on. How can anyone base or compare what oil weight is better on this info? Why not just base it on a stock engine with all the proper tin in place and the stock oil pump?

Who actually sells accurate oil pressure and temp gauges?

How about how a type 3 which is what I happen to have with it's completely different cooling system than a buss or beetle?

When anyone states that thicker oil causes oil leaks , how so and where? Perhaps the oil pump gasket . Oil pressure does not pressurize the entire case and the case vent system is all that would cause an oil leak if it were plugged. It may blow an oil cooler or it seals provided the cooler bypass valve is stuck closed?

My 73 type 3 has all the tin and the cooling flaps and a working thermostat plus it has the large what are called super cool tins that direct cooling air all around the cylinder fins. All the tin fits proper including the plug wire seals .

I can't and won't claim my VDO oil pressure and temp gauges are close to accurate . I know when I rebuilt this engine in 97 and maybe have 40K on the engine. I broke it in on Kendall 40 weight . I used the crank in it with standard bearings as well as the cam because they checked out fine and it had standard bearings. I had the heads done by a machine shop that did tons of VW machine work including off the road units. I exchange my rods for the same type with new wrist pin bushings and were checked to balance and true. Replace the pump with a new New German stock 26mm pump and got new push rod tubes and valve adjust screws and nuts all German made stock. I replaced both springs and valves even though they were not stuck.

Once Kendall changed and went away I decided to get 40 weight Castrol then decided against it based on a site that said 20/50 Castrol was a better choice. Flushed the oil cooler.

I am not going to say 20/50 is the best choice and can't say the cooler is not being bypassed .

As it is I change oil at 2500 miles and realize here in southern Calif temps outside rarely get below 60 F and can reach over 100 F .

I see 60 PSI on even a 100 F day on start up and after the engine is hot at 1000 RPM I see 25 to 30 PSI and near 42 to 45 PSI @ 2500 RPM .

Perhaps this is to high. I will try Valvoline 10/40 and see if things change.

I also want to add I don't due any driving over 45 , haven't been on a freeway since 2006 except once . Yet never do I sense the engine it hot I can hold the dip stick even though it's quite hot it's never to hot to burn me.

As I said I don't feel the gauges tell the truth , I use them as a base only to tell if anything is telling me hold on the pressure has dropped and temp is well about the 180 F it normally reads.

I have no idea what my bearing clearance is.

If all is well with 10/40 I may try 10/30 conventional , maybe. Or I might try 15/40 Shell Rotella since I read it's good yet oil companies don't share their composition . It may have higher zinc I have not idea.

Since some of my oil posts were locked I would expect to hear back from someone rather than see this post vanish like a fart in the wind.

I was directed here and to the other oil post . So lets hear it . I would like anyone to explain what I asked above with the ? at the end.

If not then none of you really know for sure what you are talking about.

[modok]

Choose the viscosity based on oil temperature and bearing clearances.
if you do not know what those are, then a good WAG is 10-30 cold weather and 15-40 for hot weather and cross your fingers the temp and clearances are average.

It does not matter if it is a type-1 or type-3 or an air compressor or a truck or a teabag packaging machine. Oil is oil and bearings are bearings.

Since an old VW does not have a CAT, and does have an iron flat tappet cam, it is good idea to use an oil for classic vehicles. Read the label on the oil. does it say Flat tappet cams? yes/no? easy.
The requirements of modern engines are quite different than ours, in these respects.

once you understand something fully, it becomes easy and concise to explain

it is true that the cooler will bypass if pressure is high, but fudging the viscosity to fix some other problem is not the best solution, although it is a solution. If you want better control of the cooler then a oil thermostat is what you need. The VW system may not close the bypass valve until 170-220 temp depending on conditions and RPM, and while that's kinda screwy.... it's good enough for most. I think gauges cause just as many problems as they solve.