03 golf lower control arm bushings

[MMW]

My daughter has a MK4 golf 2003 that needs lower control arm bushings. In looking for replacements I see I can get oem type by Moog or Dorman for almost double the price than Energy suspension urethane ones. Is there any reason to buy the more expensive rubber/oem type?

set of four $33 for polyurathane
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Volkswagen/G...3117G.html

$11 each for rears
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Volkswagen/Golf/Moog/Control_Arm_Bushing/2003/MOK200093.html

$21 each for fronts
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Volkswagen/Golf/Moog/Control_Arm_Bushing/2003/MOK90719.html
_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle

[ps2375]

The rubber will last longer, are quieter and offer a better ride. But the urethane can add feel to the steering wheel and sharpen the handling some.

[73sports]

I believe that the rear urethane pieces are designed to be used in conjunction with the stock bushing, at least that's the way they did it on the earlier generation of cars that has a similar bushing design. There's CJVWS people that work at dealers, you might be able to get a better deal on the factory parts!
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I will never lie, but sometimes the truth changes.

Central Jersey VW Society

[MMW]

No need to stiffen it up or anything. Just my daughters daily driver.

Thanks I will post on the club site.
_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle

[73sports]

They do need to be pressed in and out of the arm, don't know if you have access to one. Could always give Billy a call.
_________________
I will never lie, but sometimes the truth changes.

Central Jersey VW Society

[MMW]

Finally getting around to doing this job. I bought Moog bushings.

First issue I'm having is the drivers side front bolt for the lower control arm won't come out. It hits the transmission pan. I love it when cars are designed like this. I haven't looked how much work it will be but I assume I'll have to unbolt trans/motor mounts & jack it up if possible? Or take the trans pan off & hope that there is nothing inside it to block the bolt.

Edit below

I just found a great video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF7A-_0oDCI

Disconnect the engine mount "dogbone" underneath & pull engine forward to give you enough room to remove the bolt. I'll report back.
_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle

[MMW]

Driver side done. Both bushings installed. I was able to get the front bolt out by moving engine forward but it was difficult. Pulling the engine forward just gives you enough room to wiggle/twist/pry the bolt out, it doesn't have enough room to slide out easily.

I scribed around the three ball joint bolts to get them back in the same location so I shouldn't need an alignment. I'll keep an eye on tire wear just to make sure. I did not remove any of the brakes or the tie rod end. Pressing the rear one out/in was easy. The front one a little more difficult. Not sure how you would do the front one if you didn't have experience with pressing bushings etc. My front bushing was fine but since I had already purchased new ones I decided to install it. I could of easily just left the old one. I have read that usually is the case.

Pay attention to the orientation of the rear one as it has to go in a certain way. Nothing I read or watched mentioned this. Just look at the old one & put the new one in the same way.

Passenger side should be a breeze now.
_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle