Heater core replacement

[flyboy705]

Hi everyone !

I need to replace my front heater core and blower motor on my '86 Westy Vanagon. My Bentley manual only speaks about how to split the air box case and doesn't mention if I have to remove the box for servicing the core and blower motor.
Do I have to take the air box out ? And if so, how does it come out ? Looks like a big deal.

Thanks

[metropoj]

Searching through some of the posts here will guide you.

Also check out Ben's site for a step by step to get to where you want to go ... http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm

It is a big job but not impossible nor overly technical.

[flyboy705]

Thanks ! Excellent help ! Ben's the best !

I was afraid I had to tear everything apart, but then it's fun too.

[61Scout]

[WestyBob]

Good link Metropoj and good info 61Scout.

I hafta deal with mine too later so am saving this thread for reference.

[Vanagon Nut]

x2

I've done this job by myself twice now and each time I was quite leery of knocking the fluid reservoir off the brake master cylinder.

Inspect clutch pedal clevis pin hole and clevis pin. There was a recent post of wear at these parts.

Neil.

[flyboy705]

Thanks Neil ! Good hint as my clutch pedal is making noises anyway. The Bentley doesn't say anything about removing the pedals either. I assume it's a hole lot easier once the dash is out ? Is it the two bolts between the pedals and the clevis before it comes out ?

[Vanagon Nut]

I'm sure much more accurate info has been written here on this, but basically, yes; it's easier to see clevis hole/pin wear with dash off. However. With dash still on, from under with a mirror, you should be able to inspect the clutch pedal hole. Or, with instrument cluster off looking from above?

Check the image gallery here. I bet there's pics of the pedal assembly. IIRC though, the pedal assembly is held to the aluminum frame with one large pin and circlip. Also, vagcat.com has drawings you can look at. (you need to sign up)

I have yet to inspect wear on the clutch pedal repair I did some years ago,

https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/clutchpedalrepair

but repair feels like it's holding up. i.e. even brazing on a chunk of steel worked ok. A 110VAC MIG would do better?

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[GreggK]

I removed my front seats and steering wheel before pulling the dash out. Made it real easy to just pull the whole unit out take a few steps backwards and out the slider door.

[IdahoDoug]

Yep though I left steering wheel on and lowered it onto a handy cardboard box.
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Vanagon Nut]

.... and those whacky cone head bolts holding the steering column to dash can be replaced with cap head bolts.

(says he who put back the OEM "cone head" bolts)

Also, this isn't a bad time to check the rubber bushings where upper part of steering column joins lower. edit: if your later model year bus has them. Image from this page, showing worn and new bushings, shown below

https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/SteeringBushing#5840520714138571266

[djkeev]

This road has been trod before by many.
BenPlace's dash removal post is helpful with many photos.....

In the Stickies are several links you can read to help you.

The task isn't hard, just be aware that all of the plastic is OLD and FRAGILE, thus little tabs and bits can easily be broken.

Here is a link to the Stickies, scroll down to Heater/Ventilation

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6236057#6236057

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[ftp2leta]

Wile your there and something not stated on my page, check the ground on the left side, there is 2-3 ground junction spot. Check them carefully.

Ben
_________________
Working with rust, grease, dirt and dust is a sad truth.
------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta

[squeegee_boy]

+1 on the grounds. I just r/r'd my wife's dash last weekend. During that I took off the ground stars, wired brushed them until they sparkled, filed off the paint around the screw hole, replaced a few of the spade connectors that were deteriorating, and gave everything a light coat of dielectric grease.

Her headlights are noticeably brighter now.

Robyn
_________________
1984 FrankenSyncro Westy. EJ25 RMW kit
1971 Super Beetle with an EJ22. Oh yes. Daily driver

[jasonpap2002]

[flyboy705]

Wow ! Thanks everyone for all the good info and hints. This community is just awesome.
I'll pull the dash out this weekend. I got many more parts than I originally expected like brake and clutch master cylinders, heater core and motor with a set of new clips for the box, a few new ground trees ( 3 for under $5).
I'll share my progress

[morc22]

good to spray a heap of rustproofing all over the place while you have the dash out, like fish oil especially the seems of the front panel, up in the air inlet and up under the windscreen sill.

[flyboy705]

I got into it yesterday and it took about 2 hours to get the dashboard out. I was well prepared thanks to all the good advice and hints. Especially Bens guide how to take the dash out is extremely helpful. Special thanks to Ben !

The heater box was still welded and, really, what a pain in the butt to crack all those tabs apart. Some of them ended up just busted off altogether. It certainly was time to do the core and blower motor as the core was leaking and the motor almost seized.
Next new ground trees and some new connectors. They were both corroded.
Then I went on and got the clutch pedal with the master cylinder out. Holy macro, no wonder it was making a racket:

I wonder how long that would have lasted ? Today, I went to Princess Auto and bought bronze bushings, 1/4 I.D by 1/2 O.D. . I filed and enlarged the hole for the clevis pin to weld a pipe with 1/2 I.D, then I pressed the bushing in and enlarged the bore to take the new pin. Here's the end result:

I wonder how strong this is in comparison to the original, which had more solid 'meat' around the clevis pin hole ? Time will tell I guess. At least no more squeaking noises or slop in the pedal. Plus I greased it and being bronze and steel it shouldn't have any wear the next two decades.

Tomorrow, I'll get the two new master cylinders bled and maybe lubricate the wiper mechanism.

[IdahoDoug]

Nice. Takes balls sometimes to drill a LARGER hole in something you are repairing, eh? I have a mountain bike frame I've been needing to do something like this on a shock mount. Can't handle the stress. I will eventually take it to a machine shop, I guess.
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[flyboy705]

Got it finally all back together again.
Cleaned and scrubbed everything behind the dash. The heater box looks like new and has a new blower motor and core in it. To fill the core with antifreeze with only the bottom hose attached was a great tip. also to do the foam seals inside on the flaps and outside box to chassis makes a world of difference. No more whistling noises and a lot more air where I want it. Nice dry heating - no more smell of antifreeze.
A note on the blower motor I bought from VanCafe: the bearing is not open to the dirt and dust stream like the old stock one. A great improvement !

I replaced the ground trees with new ones. Some of the ground connectors were so old that they didn't keep their shape and just slipped off with little or no force on them. I just replaced all of them. I re routed and cleaned up some of the wiring, too.
The first test drive was very pleasant. Nice tight clutch without noises and slop. The breaking seems improved with the new master cylinder. The heat/fresh air is much much better and doesn't smell like antifreeze.

All in all I have to say that it certainly was worth the time and money.