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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8206 Location: San Dimas
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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Clatter wrote: |
Bah! Onward and upward!
No sense in going backwards and putting the old stuff back on.
Drop spindles work much better than a beam that was just cut n' turned (adjuster-ed).
If you are going with the CB 2" beam (or one from the same place in Brazil that sells to everyone),
Watch out for the height range in which it was set up to adjust.
They always made their beams as a "lowered beam" where the adjustment range was from low to really low with standard spindles.
If you were like me, and got drop spindles to use with your adjustable beam, the highest setting will still be too low.
They now sell 2" beams with the adjusters set so they work well with drop spindles, too.
So get the beam for drop spindles, not the usual one, or you will end up like me, with chunks of your driveway missing.... |
Agree with the sentiment Clatter Im keeping the dropped spindles and going the narrowed beam with adjusters. Good tip on where the adjusters are set. My current stock beam has adjusters installed and the photos with the tyres rubbing is it set at the lowest position with no engine or fuel tank. So my current beam with adjusters is probably perfect just needs narrowing. Tossing up now whether to narrow myself or save myself the trouble and buy one. If I bought one, are the EMPI beams OK(not sure if this is the Brazillian one you refer to??) They just have the single plate on the sides for the shock tower, and are the cheapest.
sputnick60 wrote: |
The beam I have now is set to take drop spindles from the normal height to lowered. I got the geometry to stay as close to stock with the intent of keeping the ride comfortable with full travel.
Nicholas |
Is your custom Nicholas or off the shelf?? If off the shelf what make?
Thanks for the tip darrel, Ive got a growing number of parts on this build that after purchase, havent made the grade and gone to the circular filing cabinet. I'll take you advice and get a good one. |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8206 Location: San Dimas
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djway3474 Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2011 Posts: 2576 Location: The Real NDK So Cal
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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I narrowed one and it was not that difficult.
A large 3/4 blade pipe cutter is the best way to get straight cuts. |
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Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7527 Location: Santa Cruz
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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The OG German beams are better than aftermarket for many reasons.
If you have the facilities to do it yourself - Go For It! _________________ Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:45 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the encouragement guys, Ive decided that I will have a crack at narrowing the beam myself. Before then though I wanted to get the rest of the wiring in the rear finished.
Time to sort out the birds nest
Felt padding over the tar panels to hopefully cut down the noise
Side cover on
Ready for the engine. Still need to make a wooden packer to fit under the battery strap to suit shorter modern battery.
I also finally got my heads back from the reconditioners. There were a few cracks which took them a little longer than they expected. Allowed me to port the manifolds ready for the dual 44s
Next was cutting the heads to accept dual valve springs
Then assembly of the long block
got to remember those deflectors
Heads on and torqued up
Long block nearly finished. Next is to take the engine off the stand and fit the flywheel. Have to colour spray all the tinware before finishing to the engine, so time to get back to that front beam.
Found this awesome video on Youtube, which I will go by
Link
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kiwighia68 Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2013 Posts: 2867 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:33 am Post subject: |
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I've been following your thread for some time now for leads and for inspiration. I'm some steps behind you still. Could you please tell me what you used to insulate the firewall between the engine and the internal luggage compartment and where I may buy some? I have the original tar-board for my '68 Ghia but it is very untidy and cracked and I would like to replace it with something that looks original.
I saw your post on the upholstery thread and would like to know more about Kevin (AussieTrimmer?) I may come across to Oz later when my car is up and running for a custom but original look interior. Where does one source those chrome trim pieces on the doors?
I apologise for making my problems yours but hope you won't mind. _________________ Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015 |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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No Problems Chris, to tell you the truth I didnt put that much thought into the insulation between the engine and fire wall because I still had the OG double layer on the other side of the firewall inside the cabin. In the engine bay I mainly wanted it to be neat. I used a bit of left over dynamat just to take any ring out of the firewall, and then used the cheaper fire wall kit that KGPR sells. They sell a more expensive german one, but I bought one years ago for my bettle and wasn't that happy with it, not sure if its the same type. But for now Im happy with this one. The test will be what happens when there is heat in the engine bay and what happens to it.
I think kev makes the best panels for the early ghias with the different panel sections. For later ghias TMI makes what looks to be the welded panels in single colours. Im pretty sure you can get the lower aluminium moldings from KGPR, kev makes the chrome strip just under the door handels, but Im not sure if they are on the 68 panels. May be have a chat with him to see what is meant to be on the 68 panel |
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djway3474 Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2011 Posts: 2576 Location: The Real NDK So Cal
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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:10 am Post subject: |
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I narrowed my beam 2 inches. It was not that hard and I am not much of a metal man.
I think I saw that same video myself.
Go for it. |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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djway3474 wrote: |
I narrowed my beam 2 inches. It was not that hard and I am not much of a metal man.
I think I saw that same video myself.
Go for it. |
Did you have to do any mods to the body to fit it in? I pulled the beam out the other night and measured the the distance between the shock tower seam and the body and the most I reckon I can narrow by plating one side of the shock tower as shown in the video is 20mm (3/4") either side. I am going to pull apart the rest of the beam tonight and see if I can narrow a bit more by taking some material off the ends of the tubes. Unfortunately this video is the only thing I can find on narrowing a OG king and link pin beam, havent found anything on the Samba. Plenty of topics but no instructions |
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motorhead364 Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2008 Posts: 715 Location: Amarillo Texas
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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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Looking awesome! What color silver did you use? That's the color I'm going with. _________________ 63 ghia coupe |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8206 Location: San Dimas
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djway3474 Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2011 Posts: 2576 Location: The Real NDK So Cal
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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motorhead364 wrote: |
Looking awesome! What color silver did you use? That's the color I'm going with. |
Thanks Motorhead, the colour is called Asteroid silver and was found by accident. My ghias original colour was Lavender going off what I could see in the hard to reach places and the factory colours for 1962. Lavender isnt the most flattering colour for ghias so I was originally going to repaint in the colour the PO painted it which was Alpha Romeo red. My wife convinced me to paint it silver, so I went to the local auto shop and went with a premixed colour they had on the shelf. I started doing all the painting myself, separating the body then painting the undercarriage. Not sure what they are called in other countries, but this paint was an acryllic and I used a isocyanate free 2 pack clear top coat, both of which can be spayed by the diy without a booth. When it was time for the top side to be painted I handed it over to a professional who painted it in 2 pack (basecoat then clear coat) which by law can only be painted in a booth. I told him the colour not realising there would be different versions and he painted it in Asteroid Silver GMH (General Motors Holden local car manufacturer) which had a slightly bluer tinge which I prefer anyway. Being a General Motors colour theres probably a local equivalent.
Last edited by Rich62ghia on Sat Feb 07, 2015 7:31 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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c21darrel wrote: |
2 inches narrowed should be a bolt on, shouldnt hit anything |
I think thats true for a ball joint front end, your 68 looks great BTW.
I re-measured last night(pics to follow) and I only have 3/4" either side if I cut half the shock tower and plate , hopefully this will be enough. Seeing if there are other ways of bringing in the trailing arms another 1/4" each side.
Yeah I watched all 4 parts. Good tips if you are installing adjusters, mine already had the adjusters. |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8206 Location: San Dimas
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jpjohns Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2014 Posts: 882 Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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Rich62ghia wrote: |
The PO installed adjusters on the front beam, but I wasnt sure if the car would end up low enough, so after much deliberating decided to go with dropped spindles as well.
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How far did you want to drop it? That looks a little more than 2 1/2 inches. _________________ -Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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DONGKG The Araneta Boys
Joined: August 28, 2006 Posts: 5475 Location: Cainta, Rizal, Philippines, "A Certified Type 3 and Karmann Ghia Maniac"
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:54 am Post subject: |
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jpjohns wrote: |
How far did you want to drop it? That looks a little more than 2 1/2 inches. |
Im not sure how far from stock I want to drop it. I wanted the pan clearance to be roughly 6 inches with 175/65/R15 tyres. With the adjusters at their lowest setting it didnt look like it would be enough. I was buying a porsche stud pattern disk brake kit, which included the dropped spindles, so decided to install as I can always adjust up if too low.
DONGKG wrote: |
Your kg looks awesome! Gosh i need to go back to my kg that has been hibernating! Cool ride! |
Thanks DONGKG |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:04 am Post subject: |
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I started dissecting the beam on the weekend. First was to measure how much I could narrow it by, by plating the inner side of the shock tower.After checking then re-checking looks like I can narrow by 20mm(3/4 inch) at most either side without modifying the body.
Then pull the beam out after removing spindles, steering box, damper, tie rods etc
Remove the swaybar
Loosen grubscrews, slide out trailing arms and remove lower torsion springs
Then upper torsion springs
Beam dissasembled
Need to measure how far the trailing arms sit in the tubes to find a safe area to narrow, taking into account I didnt want to lose the steering damper mount, ended up being about 145mm in from the shock towers
After trying to cut with an angle grinder and going through 2 chinese blades hardly making any progress, I used a trusty old hacksaw to finish the job.
Trying to get a couple more mm by pushing in the needle bearings and grinding off the ends. It seems that you can only gain 2mm without fxxking the bearing, I pushed the first one in 3mm before realising I was crushing the ends, it now needs replacing .
I can see why most people opt for purchasing a narrowed king and link pin beam, but at least I know this will work and where the adjusters will be. Looks like I will be able to narrow 22mm either side, 44mm or 1 & 3/4 inches, not quite 2 inches but hopefully enough for what I need. Looking to get this finished in the next couple of weeks. |
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