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Rich's 62 ghia build
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1261462.jpg

Those clear caps are terrible, known to cause timing scatter. get a good one and avoid problems.
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
Bah! Onward and upward! Very Happy

No sense in going backwards and putting the old stuff back on.
Drop spindles work much better than a beam that was just cut n' turned (adjuster-ed).

If you are going with the CB 2" beam (or one from the same place in Brazil that sells to everyone),
Watch out for the height range in which it was set up to adjust.
They always made their beams as a "lowered beam" where the adjustment range was from low to really low with standard spindles.
If you were like me, and got drop spindles to use with your adjustable beam, the highest setting will still be too low.
They now sell 2" beams with the adjusters set so they work well with drop spindles, too.

So get the beam for drop spindles, not the usual one, or you will end up like me, with chunks of your driveway missing....


Agree with the sentiment Clatter Im keeping the dropped spindles and going the narrowed beam with adjusters. Good tip on where the adjusters are set. My current stock beam has adjusters installed and the photos with the tyres rubbing is it set at the lowest position with no engine or fuel tank. So my current beam with adjusters is probably perfect just needs narrowing. Tossing up now whether to narrow myself or save myself the trouble and buy one. If I bought one, are the EMPI beams OK(not sure if this is the Brazillian one you refer to??) They just have the single plate on the sides for the shock tower, and are the cheapest.

sputnick60 wrote:
The beam I have now is set to take drop spindles from the normal height to lowered. I got the geometry to stay as close to stock with the intent of keeping the ride comfortable with full travel.
Nicholas

Is your custom Nicholas or off the shelf?? If off the shelf what make?

c21darrel wrote:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1261462.jpg

Those clear caps are terrible, known to cause timing scatter. get a good one and avoid problems.


Thanks for the tip darrel, Ive got a growing number of parts on this build that after purchase, havent made the grade and gone to the circular filing cabinet. I'll take you advice and get a good one.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

concur with Clatter. I had an aquaintance narrow my beam. I asked for it to be indexed so that i could lower slightly but i didnt want to scrape asphalt. I also have 2.5 drop spindles. It ended up too low and no upward adjustment. It was a lot of work (had to remove beam) to lengthen the holes to get upward adjustability. I was able to add about 1.5- 2 inches. So, order your beam based on your need.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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djway3474
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I narrowed one and it was not that difficult.
A large 3/4 blade pipe cutter is the best way to get straight cuts.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The OG German beams are better than aftermarket for many reasons.

If you have the facilities to do it yourself - Go For It!
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the encouragement guys, Ive decided that I will have a crack at narrowing the beam myself. Before then though I wanted to get the rest of the wiring in the rear finished.

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Time to sort out the birds nest
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Felt padding over the tar panels to hopefully cut down the noise

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Side cover on

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Ready for the engine. Still need to make a wooden packer to fit under the battery strap to suit shorter modern battery.

I also finally got my heads back from the reconditioners. There were a few cracks which took them a little longer than they expected. Allowed me to port the manifolds ready for the dual 44s

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Next was cutting the heads to accept dual valve springs
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Then assembly of the long block

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got to remember those deflectors

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Heads on and torqued up

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Long block nearly finished. Next is to take the engine off the stand and fit the flywheel. Have to colour spray all the tinware before finishing to the engine, so time to get back to that front beam.

Found this awesome video on Youtube, which I will go by


Link
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been following your thread for some time now for leads and for inspiration. I'm some steps behind you still. Could you please tell me what you used to insulate the firewall between the engine and the internal luggage compartment and where I may buy some? I have the original tar-board for my '68 Ghia but it is very untidy and cracked and I would like to replace it with something that looks original.

I saw your post on the upholstery thread and would like to know more about Kevin (AussieTrimmer?) I may come across to Oz later when my car is up and running for a custom but original look interior. Where does one source those chrome trim pieces on the doors?

I apologise for making my problems yours but hope you won't mind.
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Problems Chris, to tell you the truth I didnt put that much thought into the insulation between the engine and fire wall because I still had the OG double layer on the other side of the firewall inside the cabin. In the engine bay I mainly wanted it to be neat. I used a bit of left over dynamat just to take any ring out of the firewall, and then used the cheaper fire wall kit that KGPR sells. They sell a more expensive german one, but I bought one years ago for my bettle and wasn't that happy with it, not sure if its the same type. But for now Im happy with this one. The test will be what happens when there is heat in the engine bay and what happens to it.

I think kev makes the best panels for the early ghias with the different panel sections. For later ghias TMI makes what looks to be the welded panels in single colours. Im pretty sure you can get the lower aluminium moldings from KGPR, kev makes the chrome strip just under the door handels, but Im not sure if they are on the 68 panels. May be have a chat with him to see what is meant to be on the 68 panel
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I narrowed my beam 2 inches. It was not that hard and I am not much of a metal man.
I think I saw that same video myself.
Go for it. Cool
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djway3474 wrote:
I narrowed my beam 2 inches. It was not that hard and I am not much of a metal man.
I think I saw that same video myself.
Go for it. Cool


Did you have to do any mods to the body to fit it in? I pulled the beam out the other night and measured the the distance between the shock tower seam and the body and the most I reckon I can narrow by plating one side of the shock tower as shown in the video is 20mm (3/4") either side. I am going to pull apart the rest of the beam tonight and see if I can narrow a bit more by taking some material off the ends of the tubes. Unfortunately this video is the only thing I can find on narrowing a OG king and link pin beam, havent found anything on the Samba. Plenty of topics but no instructions Confused
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motorhead364
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking awesome! What color silver did you use? That's the color I'm going with.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 inches narrowed should be a bolt on, shouldnt hit anything
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXSv0FdVPJg
I took many tips from this video
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

motorhead364 wrote:
Looking awesome! What color silver did you use? That's the color I'm going with.


Thanks Motorhead, the colour is called Asteroid silver and was found by accident. My ghias original colour was Lavender going off what I could see in the hard to reach places and the factory colours for 1962. Lavender isnt the most flattering colour for ghias so I was originally going to repaint in the colour the PO painted it which was Alpha Romeo red. My wife convinced me to paint it silver, so I went to the local auto shop and went with a premixed colour they had on the shelf. I started doing all the painting myself, separating the body then painting the undercarriage. Not sure what they are called in other countries, but this paint was an acryllic and I used a isocyanate free 2 pack clear top coat, both of which can be spayed by the diy without a booth. When it was time for the top side to be painted I handed it over to a professional who painted it in 2 pack (basecoat then clear coat) which by law can only be painted in a booth. I told him the colour not realising there would be different versions and he painted it in Asteroid Silver GMH (General Motors Holden local car manufacturer) which had a slightly bluer tinge which I prefer anyway. Being a General Motors colour theres probably a local equivalent.


Last edited by Rich62ghia on Sat Feb 07, 2015 7:31 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

c21darrel wrote:
2 inches narrowed should be a bolt on, shouldnt hit anything


I think thats true for a ball joint front end, your 68 looks great BTW.

I re-measured last night(pics to follow) and I only have 3/4" either side if I cut half the shock tower and plate Sad, hopefully this will be enough. Seeing if there are other ways of bringing in the trailing arms another 1/4" each side.

djway3474 wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXSv0FdVPJg
I took many tips from this video


Yeah I watched all 4 parts. Good tips if you are installing adjusters, mine already had the adjusters.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Embarassed
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jpjohns
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich62ghia wrote:
The PO installed adjusters on the front beam, but I wasnt sure if the car would end up low enough, so after much deliberating decided to go with dropped spindles as well.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



How far did you want to drop it? That looks a little more than 2 1/2 inches.
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DONGKG
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your kg looks awesome! Gosh i need to go back to my kg that has been hibernating! Cool ride!
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jpjohns wrote:

How far did you want to drop it? That looks a little more than 2 1/2 inches.

Im not sure how far from stock I want to drop it. I wanted the pan clearance to be roughly 6 inches with 175/65/R15 tyres. With the adjusters at their lowest setting it didnt look like it would be enough. I was buying a porsche stud pattern disk brake kit, which included the dropped spindles, so decided to install as I can always adjust up if too low.

DONGKG wrote:
Your kg looks awesome! Gosh i need to go back to my kg that has been hibernating! Cool ride!

Thanks DONGKG
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Rich62ghia
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started dissecting the beam on the weekend. First was to measure how much I could narrow it by, by plating the inner side of the shock tower.After checking then re-checking looks like I can narrow by 20mm(3/4 inch) at most either side without modifying the body.
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Then pull the beam out after removing spindles, steering box, damper, tie rods etc
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Remove the swaybar
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Loosen grubscrews, slide out trailing arms and remove lower torsion springs
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Then upper torsion springs
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Beam dissasembled
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Need to measure how far the trailing arms sit in the tubes to find a safe area to narrow, taking into account I didnt want to lose the steering damper mount, ended up being about 145mm in from the shock towers
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After trying to cut with an angle grinder and going through 2 chinese blades hardly making any progress, I used a trusty old hacksaw to finish the job.
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Trying to get a couple more mm by pushing in the needle bearings and grinding off the ends. It seems that you can only gain 2mm without fxxking the bearing, I pushed the first one in 3mm before realising I was crushing the ends, it now needs replacing Mad.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I can see why most people opt for purchasing a narrowed king and link pin beam, but at least I know this will work and where the adjusters will be. Looks like I will be able to narrow 22mm either side, 44mm or 1 & 3/4 inches, not quite 2 inches but hopefully enough for what I need. Looking to get this finished in the next couple of weeks.
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