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Building a 74 mm Stroke by 88 mm bore with 042 or 044 heads?
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks WIK1, That is my first though that it has oil on it. We had driven it on a 900 mile trip and it did seem to be grabbing a little driving up to Mt. St. Helens in Washington state where we learned that Mt. St. Helens is the most likely volcano in the Cascades to erupt soon.
There are no oil drips where the Bell Housing meets the case. Does it look like this bowden tube is too tight? My other Idea is that the Kush lock Disc is not totally compatible with the Sachs Pressure plate!
Under the Engine View:
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Bowden Tube:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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W1K1
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That bowden tube will definitely cause problems like that
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That thing is as straight as an arrow. No bueno.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, Thanks for your input, That must be it. My bus is getting pretty old and I have not changed the front transaxle mount or the trailing arm bushings not that they would cause it. Things could be moving around, I better check them and get a new bowden tube. Thanks for the Info.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could probably get away with a few washers on it, but they are pretty cheap.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
You could probably get away with a few washers on it, but they are pretty cheap.


Washers aren't going to fix the broken end attached to the tube
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah that broken end is going to raise hell with it if I put in washers! But I have wondered about trying to put some washers in at the rear end of it! Not sure what that would keep it from causing a bind there or where it is cracked but it's worth a try I suppose. Yeah, I am going to go look to see if the front trans mount is tight now. The clutch is quite smooth now what ever it was that made it a little grabby seems to have burned off when it slipped that day. It can probably wait till I pull the engine and change those heads. Still can't decide on the best heads for that engine. It has such nice torque with the Stock VW 113 101 375A Port matched heads I hate to mess that up. I am building a spare engine for it now and am sinking too much money into an Old U case now it looks like it's going to need Lifter bores, It's going to be almost the same engine with 74mm stroke and the 88mm bore Thick Wall cylinders and pistons from AA, On it I am considering running the CB-2231 cam so I can go either way on carbs. Stock or with the 36mm dells. As I understand it the CB-2231 has Stock Lift but some Advance not much and it works well with 40mm X 35mm valves so I may go with the Mofoco 42's or the 044's or the DRD Revmaster 049's on it Just to see how they compare to the VW 113 101 375A heads I am running now.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow. What a gripping read. Highs, lows, hill climbs. Shooting spark plugs.. and still no decision on the heads.

Great detail, I have learnt a lot from reading it through over the last few days. Though I must say I was cringing when you started tapping out that spark plug thread in the head.. .

I hope you make a good decision with the heads and only get more enjoyment from that nice motor.. (just please dont let it take another 10 pages) Wink

I will enjoy hearing what heads you choose, and what improvements you see.

Very Happy
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it's doing so well with the welded stock heads that I have decided to just keep them for now. Building a (slightly milder) spare engine for the bus now which will be almost the same (dual 36mm Dellorto Carbs and all, really like them). Just bought a Webcam 118 camshaft (245' @ .050" .402 Valve Lift) for it (Hoping for better milage and better torque!) Was thinking Steve Tim's 041 heads but now I am worried they would loose a little flow velocity over Stock heads or Perhaps L3's so I am saving up for the L3's. See my links below "Spare Engine" and "Which Cam" . Thanks for the post!
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:52 pm    Post subject: Bus UP Date! Reply with quote

8500 miles and counting: Breaks went out last week. Lucky, got her stopped safely with the e-brake. Rusted metal brake line up front! $6.95 for a new one.
Now running the WIX 51342 oil filter which works much better it does not drain back like the others I have tried.
The engine seems to be running strong and stays in tune. I would like to get a better distributor than the .009 for it though! Perhaps with a Pertronix Ignitor II Ignition.
Gas milage has been averaging about 20 MPG with occasional tanks getting over 22 MPG.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DRD heads are very nice, when I called Darren about heads he spent 45 minutes talking with me asking questions and answering my questions. I will not go anywhere else for heads. DRD provides a GREAT product at a very good price with customer service and knowledge.
Best of luck
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I keep looking at the L3 heads! Strongly considering them. Good to know.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I haven't finished reading through this thread but is that a brake boot cover you're using here on the altie? How is the alternator working for ya?
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sure it's the original 1974 alternator plug and cover and wires holes are molded in! Got it off a 74 Bug engine I got that had a broken crank and was all rusted up. Also used the Alternator Stand the distributor and the flywheel from that engine as well as some of the engine tin.

I had to remove the alternator and work on it again because I failed to properly tighten the ground screw in the back inside the alternator housing. It was causing it to only charge intermittently! But I replaced the screw with a stainless steel one and locktite! It's on the engine and in the bus and has been working fine now for over a year.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
Pretty sure it's the original 1974 alternator plug and cover and wires holes are molded in! Got it off a 74 Bug engine I got that had a broken crank and was all rusted up. Also used the Alternator Stand the distributor and the flywheel from that engine as well as some of the engine tin.

I had to remove the alternator and work on it again because I failed to properly tighten the ground screw in the back inside the alternator housing. It was causing it to only charge intermittently! But I replaced the screw with a stainless steel one and locktite! It's on the engine and in the bus and has been working fine now for over a year.


Glad to hear it. FYI the bug three-prong brake switch uses an identical rubber boot and plug, if yours ever goes south
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is good especially if one of the suppliers like west coast metric has those! I have a spare alternator just like it that I rebuilt! Need another plug for it!
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was haveing Drain back issues with the Mann W719/5 oil filter and have discovered the Wix 51342 seems to slove the problem.
For More See Post: Full Flow Oil Filter Question?
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

October 2015 Past 10K mile mark, Running Strong.




First Start
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Building a 74 mm Stroke by 88 mm bore with 042 or 044 heads? Reply with quote

Just got back from a 700 mile road trip which included the Woodburn Oregon BugFest 2016 and Camping in the Cascades. Engine now has 14000 miles on it.
Got a chance to drive it in hot weather as it was 100 degrees out.
It did pretty well running at about 70 to 75 miles per hour between Eugene and Portland, goes through oil though driving like that but not otherwise. Not over heating! Plenty of power to spare. Got over 23 MPG in the Mountains.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:07 pm    Post subject: Changing Spark Plugs etc... Reply with quote

July 8 2016
Ok checking some things, Changed the Spark plugs, Pretty bad after 15000 miles at least 3 of them. #2 plug is always covered with some kind of sticky deposit. That's the plug hole that had to be re-welded. Something going on there. (Anyone got a good 1971 or so German DP head I can have rebuilt?) Still runs strong though!
This Motorola Alternator wiring to the voltage regulator picture is for my own reference. Broke a wire, the one with the 40 ohm resistor between D+ and the Fuel Pump relay coil trying to get to #1 plug. I have way too much wiring way too close to the #1 plug. Got to fix that next time the engine is out. Everything is in the way even the battery cable! I can't even seem to even plug on the spark wire on it at the time being. Very tight. Well tomorrow! Going to change the oil and put in some 0W40 Mobil 1 too. I will post some photos of the plugs etc...
Nice Link here: VW Engine Specs & Formulas

Motorola Alternator's Regulator wiring:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


#2 Spark Plug after the First 3000 miles: Got changed.
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#2 Spark Plug at 15000 on the engine 12000 on the plug.
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#1 & #2 Plugs shown together. #2 is not as bad as it looks above that's teflon tape that I have been using on #2 only.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


#2 Plug shown with it's new replacement plug.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


#3
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


#4
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Synthetic Oil oil filter:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oil Change from Castrol 5W30 to Mobil 1 10-W-40:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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