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ORANGECRUSHer Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006 Posts: 2675 Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:27 am Post subject: |
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your engine code should be stamped on the generator stand not that pic you showed us.
That head is pretty crusty, but don't be sad, there are a lot of old stock heads laying around out there you just have to find em and they shouldn't be expensive. That is if you're a little strapped for cash right now and just want to put that thing back together for the time being and see how long it lasts. _________________ Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:00 am Post subject: |
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ORANGECRUSHer wrote: |
your engine code should be stamped on the generator stand not that pic you showed us.
That head is pretty crusty, but don't be sad, there are a lot of old stock heads laying around out there you just have to find em and they shouldn't be expensive. That is if you're a little strapped for cash right now and just want to put that thing back together for the time being and see how long it lasts. |
The engine code is AE, so it matches up with the heads. That is what I was trying to say. Looks like it has never been apart.
I am going to clean this engine up without splitting the case. I might be wasting my time, but the worst that can happen is I end up doing it all over again. By getting the engine running and installed into the buggy, I can at least decide which direction to go. Build from scratch or refurbish Texas Tacky. Who know, I might do both.
I found a spare engine. Was running when pulled, but was burning oil. I am going to look at it later. If I purchase it, then I will definitely end up with two buggies. _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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ORANGECRUSHer Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006 Posts: 2675 Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:21 am Post subject: |
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Sorry about that.
I agree with your plan though. I know a dude that would just run a hone through those cylinders and call it good. Check ring gap and slap it together. You know you'll prolly get busy working the inevitable kinks out of the rest of the rig anyway. Heck if you get that other motor, sounds like that's a prime candidate for the hone and bone technique, then just slap it in this rig. There will be plenty of time to go balls out on the motor later when everything else is perfect.
Either way I hope it all works out for ya. We got your back. _________________ Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc |
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HERC Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2007 Posts: 1003 Location: Menifee
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:54 am Post subject: |
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I would just split the case on the best of what you got and just build a reliable motor. Who knows whats going on with that thing and the lack of end play could just be corrosion taking up space.
Then again, it could run forever just throwin it together.
I suppose I have a habit of looking at potential bug motor hours, since I drive one daily. _________________ Herc |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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HERC wrote: |
I would just split the case on the best of what you got and just build a reliable motor. Who knows whats going on with that thing and the lack of end play could just be corrosion taking up space.
Then again, it could run forever just throwin it together.
I suppose I have a habit of looking at potential bug motor hours, since I drive one daily. |
I looked inside with an LED flashlight, and she looked very clean inside. At least what I could see. I have never split a case, so am hesitant to do so. I have the book (bible) on engine rebuilds on the way. I'm positive I could handle it after buying a few metric specialty tools, but honestly I would prefer to see how it runs as is. I can do a full rebuild at a later time.
I have a lot of suspension work ahead of me that I would rather spend my money on at this time. _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 5:16 am Post subject: |
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I'm not finding any threads showing the best way to cut out the rusty floor pan off my donor chassis. I'd like to cut out the factory sheet metal and go back with some aluminum plate. My concern is with the factory U-channel along the outboard perimeter. Should I remove it completely and duplicate it in square tubing, or leave it and add tubing inside it?
Anybody know some good links to help me out in case I go this route? I'm checking into a Warrior knock down kit, but may build from scratch since I have all the tools. _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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So I took the front axle off of the beetle chassis just now. I went to take off the rear shafts, but it looks like an 8mm 12 point star wrench is needed there. I only have standard sizes, so will have to wait before I can remove the tranny and the arms. I did have a 17mm allen wrench, and so that seems to cover the rest of the bolts. _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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Scott88ag Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2013 Posts: 57 Location: DFW - Texas
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Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:56 am Post subject: |
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hi bio,
Unless you are building a rail with a full body kit from a registered manf like Berrien, you can forget making a rail that is street legal.
In April Texas changed up the codes so you can't title a vehicle without a body.
And if it's new, they make it pass all the 2014 safety and emission codes as well.
Mine has been titled for several years so I can still putt around town.
Go with a baja if you want street legal. |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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Scott88ag wrote: |
hi bio,
Unless you are building a rail with a full body kit from a registered manf like Berrien, you can forget making a rail that is street legal.
In April Texas changed up the codes so you can't title a vehicle without a body.
And if it's new, they make it pass all the 2014 safety and emission codes as well.
Mine has been titled for several years so I can still putt around town.
Go with a baja if you want street legal. |
Thanks Scott. I jst got off the phone with a shipping company to get a quote for a Berrien Warrior. Looks like I can get the complete knock down kit crated and shipped to my door for around $667. This might be the better way to go. There are no emmisions testing in my county. Not even a visual. All I need is an inspection and registration. It will be a lot easier with a Berrien kit than something home made for sure. I just need to figure out a way to get it past the chief executive financial officer!
I have already used the advice that it is better to ask for giveness than permission too many times.
_________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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Scott88ag Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2013 Posts: 57 Location: DFW - Texas
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Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
I have already used the advice that it is better to ask forgiveness than permission too many times. |
Man, I know that story all too well!!
Good luck, I hope you can pull it off.
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:34 am Post subject: |
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My new cylinders, pistons etc... finally showed up. I plan to get the engine rebuilt, installed into Texas Tacky, and get the buggy running. Then I can start tweaking the frame to suit my style better.
I have decided that the beetle body and tub are too rusted to save, so I am going to scrap that project. I will keep the good parts for a future Berrien buggy build.
Pictures to come as I get started on the engine assembly. _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 6:54 am Post subject: |
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Here is the rust I decided not to mess with. Going to scrap this body.
I feel it is not worth the trouble and expense. YOUR THOUGHTS? _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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ORANGECRUSHer Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006 Posts: 2675 Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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Bashr52 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2006 Posts: 5666 Location: On an island in VA
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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biotex wrote: |
Here is the rust I decided not to mess with. Going to scrap this body.
I feel it is not worth the trouble and expense. YOUR THOUGHTS? |
That rusty heater channel you are worried about? Just cut it out and replace it. NO big deal |
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brooksinc1976 Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2014 Posts: 140 Location: Pasadena
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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X2 if you got the fab skills. But, a lot of it depends if you want a show off baja or a user friendly one. I think the trans pecks market would be hard to see it quick and I doubt you would be more than 200 for the scrap. |
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ORANGECRUSHer Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006 Posts: 2675 Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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My Orange Crush body was worse than that and I sold it for a Benny. It was totally worth it cause the guy fixed it up and put it on another pan. That rust is just old hat to a 'body guy'. Unfortunately I'm not one if those either. Sold quick too. _________________ Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc |
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biotex Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2014 Posts: 316 Location: Alpine, TX
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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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I'm tempted to fix it, and I do have all the tools and skills to get the job done. I figure it will cost about 500 to 600 bucks. I was thinking I would have a lot more fun If I spent that on a berrien kit. I'm so back and forth on this.
The rust on the heater channel doesn't worry me. It's the A pillar and forward on the driver side and the B pillar on the pass. side that I'm concerned with. _________________ ACME Cruiser Sand Rail, 1776, Combo spindles,
Coil Over conversion in progress |
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ORANGECRUSHer Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006 Posts: 2675 Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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mkparker Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2004 Posts: 332 Location: Sherman, Tx
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Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:49 am Post subject: |
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There are too many rust free Bug bodies in Texas to fool with repairing rust for a Baja. Scrap it and find a better body if you still want to go the Baja route, is my opinion. _________________ Michael
Pit Boy 6163 Spec Trophy Truck |
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ORANGECRUSHer Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2006 Posts: 2675 Location: West Coast (Michigan's)
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