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"Texas Tacky". A new build
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

your engine code should be stamped on the generator stand not that pic you showed us.
That head is pretty crusty, but don't be sad, there are a lot of old stock heads laying around out there you just have to find em and they shouldn't be expensive. That is if you're a little strapped for cash right now and just want to put that thing back together for the time being and see how long it lasts.
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OrangeCrushER
Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc
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biotex
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ORANGECRUSHer wrote:
your engine code should be stamped on the generator stand not that pic you showed us.
That head is pretty crusty, but don't be sad, there are a lot of old stock heads laying around out there you just have to find em and they shouldn't be expensive. That is if you're a little strapped for cash right now and just want to put that thing back together for the time being and see how long it lasts.

The engine code is AE, so it matches up with the heads. That is what I was trying to say. Looks like it has never been apart.

I am going to clean this engine up without splitting the case. I might be wasting my time, but the worst that can happen is I end up doing it all over again. By getting the engine running and installed into the buggy, I can at least decide which direction to go. Build from scratch or refurbish Texas Tacky. Who know, I might do both.
I found a spare engine. Was running when pulled, but was burning oil. I am going to look at it later. If I purchase it, then I will definitely end up with two buggies.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry about that.
I agree with your plan though. I know a dude that would just run a hone through those cylinders and call it good. Check ring gap and slap it together. You know you'll prolly get busy working the inevitable kinks out of the rest of the rig anyway. Heck if you get that other motor, sounds like that's a prime candidate for the hone and bone technique, then just slap it in this rig. There will be plenty of time to go balls out on the motor later when everything else is perfect.

Either way I hope it all works out for ya. We got your back.
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OrangeCrushER
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HERC
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just split the case on the best of what you got and just build a reliable motor. Who knows whats going on with that thing and the lack of end play could just be corrosion taking up space.
Then again, it could run forever just throwin it together.
I suppose I have a habit of looking at potential bug motor hours, since I drive one daily.
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biotex
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HERC wrote:
I would just split the case on the best of what you got and just build a reliable motor. Who knows whats going on with that thing and the lack of end play could just be corrosion taking up space.
Then again, it could run forever just throwin it together.
I suppose I have a habit of looking at potential bug motor hours, since I drive one daily.


I looked inside with an LED flashlight, and she looked very clean inside. At least what I could see. I have never split a case, so am hesitant to do so. I have the book (bible) on engine rebuilds on the way. I'm positive I could handle it after buying a few metric specialty tools, but honestly I would prefer to see how it runs as is. I can do a full rebuild at a later time.
I have a lot of suspension work ahead of me that I would rather spend my money on at this time.
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biotex
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not finding any threads showing the best way to cut out the rusty floor pan off my donor chassis. I'd like to cut out the factory sheet metal and go back with some aluminum plate. My concern is with the factory U-channel along the outboard perimeter. Should I remove it completely and duplicate it in square tubing, or leave it and add tubing inside it?

Anybody know some good links to help me out in case I go this route? I'm checking into a Warrior knock down kit, but may build from scratch since I have all the tools.
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biotex
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I took the front axle off of the beetle chassis just now. I went to take off the rear shafts, but it looks like an 8mm 12 point star wrench is needed there. I only have standard sizes, so will have to wait before I can remove the tranny and the arms. I did have a 17mm allen wrench, and so that seems to cover the rest of the bolts.
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Scott88ag
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi bio,

Unless you are building a rail with a full body kit from a registered manf like Berrien, you can forget making a rail that is street legal.
In April Texas changed up the codes so you can't title a vehicle without a body.
And if it's new, they make it pass all the 2014 safety and emission codes as well.

Mine has been titled for several years so I can still putt around town.
Go with a baja if you want street legal.
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biotex
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott88ag wrote:
hi bio,

Unless you are building a rail with a full body kit from a registered manf like Berrien, you can forget making a rail that is street legal.
In April Texas changed up the codes so you can't title a vehicle without a body.
And if it's new, they make it pass all the 2014 safety and emission codes as well.

Mine has been titled for several years so I can still putt around town.
Go with a baja if you want street legal.


Thanks Scott. I jst got off the phone with a shipping company to get a quote for a Berrien Warrior. Looks like I can get the complete knock down kit crated and shipped to my door for around $667. This might be the better way to go. There are no emmisions testing in my county. Not even a visual. All I need is an inspection and registration. It will be a lot easier with a Berrien kit than something home made for sure. I just need to figure out a way to get it past the chief executive financial officer!
I have already used the advice that it is better to ask for giveness than permission too many times.
Cool
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Scott88ag
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I have already used the advice that it is better to ask forgiveness than permission too many times.


Man, I know that story all too well!!

Good luck, I hope you can pull it off.

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biotex
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My new cylinders, pistons etc... finally showed up. I plan to get the engine rebuilt, installed into Texas Tacky, and get the buggy running. Then I can start tweaking the frame to suit my style better.

I have decided that the beetle body and tub are too rusted to save, so I am going to scrap that project. I will keep the good parts for a future Berrien buggy build.

Pictures to come as I get started on the engine assembly.
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biotex
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the rust I decided not to mess with. Going to scrap this body.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I feel it is not worth the trouble and expense. YOUR THOUGHTS?
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sell the body, don't scrap it!
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OrangeCrushER
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

biotex wrote:
Here is the rust I decided not to mess with. Going to scrap this body.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I feel it is not worth the trouble and expense. YOUR THOUGHTS?


That rusty heater channel you are worried about? Just cut it out and replace it. NO big deal
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brooksinc1976
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 if you got the fab skills. But, a lot of it depends if you want a show off baja or a user friendly one. I think the trans pecks market would be hard to see it quick and I doubt you would be more than 200 for the scrap.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Orange Crush body was worse than that and I sold it for a Benny. It was totally worth it cause the guy fixed it up and put it on another pan. That rust is just old hat to a 'body guy'. Unfortunately I'm not one if those either. Sold quick too.
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OrangeCrushER
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biotex
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm tempted to fix it, and I do have all the tools and skills to get the job done. I figure it will cost about 500 to 600 bucks. I was thinking I would have a lot more fun If I spent that on a berrien kit. I'm so back and forth on this.

The rust on the heater channel doesn't worry me. It's the A pillar and forward on the driver side and the B pillar on the pass. side that I'm concerned with.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hated having to cut up orange crush to make my berrien. I felt the then the same way you do now. It's money either way. I just hate to see another car disappear. Bajas are more fun. Smile
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mkparker
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are too many rust free Bug bodies in Texas to fool with repairing rust for a Baja. Scrap it and find a better body if you still want to go the Baja route, is my opinion.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like I need to move to Texas then
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