2276 Turnkey Build Thread - SCAT Kit

[vugbug68]

[bugguy1967]

Thanks Spencer about my building quality. That means a lot. I've discussed turning down the cam past .800" with my client, and it was out of the question. As for the Engle lifters with cam, I doubt they would replace anyways. They'd just blame your failure on something YOU did. Another thing is that the V26 has been around since off the shelf 42x37s have been around. THERE WERE NO ENGLE LIFTERS AVAILABLE YET. What did we use? N.O.S. German or Brazilian, and they worked well! SCAT grinds on the SC1, and they pair theirs up with their lifters. It's all just marketing.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[spencerfvee]

Hi what happens when a cam breaks in two .the part of the cam with the cam gear still turn the frount part of the cam .the back of the broken cam will turn out of sink of the notches .this lets the crank and rods hit the cam .that does not have the notches in the cam and when it did on my motor it broke the 4 lifter bores in two .the lifters fell out of the lifter bores and all hell broke lose in the case like I said it looked like a bomb went off in the case take care spencerfvee.quote="vugbug68"]

[spencerfvee]

Hi I have turned cams down below 800 thou. As low as 750 thou. But I tell the guys if it breaks don't come back wanting me to fix it for free lol there's about 15 of them still running so I guess it worked .for my motors I never go under 800 thou. You must be a old guy like me lol I started in 1969 raceing vws still do drag race vws when I can .i got hurt in Viet nam messed my leg up .we all slow down the older we get lol take care spencerfvee..quote="bugguy1967"]Thanks Spencer about my building quality. That means a lot. I've discussed turning down the cam past .800", and it was out of the question. As for the Engle lifters with cam, I doubt they would replace anyways. They'd just blame your failure on something YOU did. Another thing is that the V26 has been around since off the shelf 42x37s have been around. THERE WERE NO ENGLE LIFTERS AVAILABLE YET. What did we use? N.O.S. German or Brazilian, and they worked well! SCAT grinds on the SC1, and they pair theirs up with their lifters. It's all just marketing.[/quote]

[[email protected]]

so much depends on the springs and rockers. 1.4s are tougher on the cam than 1.1s. You can get away with stuff on VW duals that will bite you if you are running Chevy springs. Etc etc.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[bugguy1967]

Ok, I had a funny lunchtime today. I first called CB and a woman answered. Being completely supportive of everything women's lib, I decided to hit her with the question to see if she'd shock the s*** out of me. I asked if the SC1 billet is compatible with their 28mm Ultralight lifters. She put me on hold.....A guy picked up. I hit him with the question. He put me on hold......Came back on and said that their CWC billets are indeed compatible. I told him that I wanted to know about the SC1 specifically. He put me back on hold.......Came back on and said that he can't say whether or not they are since theirs are all on the CWCs. One thing I found out is that they have two different size cuts for their cams, depending on stroke. They have one for up to 82, and one for up to 86.

I called Web-Cam and asked if their SC1 billets are compatible with CBs, and the guy put me on hold to ask Steve. He came back and said they only use and recommend SCAT lifters for their cams. It's what has been working for them. He had no info on CB compatibility.

Oh yeah, CB told me that SC1s are Chinese billets, and CWCs are American.

No other info was given. I have SCAT lifters here. Maybe I should use those. SCAT sells them with theirs....
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

It's been wet and cold outside, slowing my progress down. This week, I closed up the block with the CB lifters and SC1 billet. I already knew the 19mm O.D. Nuts didn't fit with 94s, but my stubbornness made me still try instead of just cleaning some O.E. nuts. When loosening one of the locknuts, the stud pulled out. What kind of Loctite should I use for that? I have blue (242), red (grade A), red (272), and Loctite green retaining compound, which is super high strength.

Installed some head studs just hand tight to check decks. I remove the rings to make mock-up easier. As soon as I dropped the cylinder down, I saw that the deck height was positive, so I grabbed a couple of .020" shims to stack under the cylinder. Turns out that the deck is -.026". To get .050 deck, I'll need a .076" cylinder shim to get the compression where I need it.

Did a little work on the crankcase evac setup. Threw the alternator stand on the Bridgeport to add a breather on the front of the stand. The typical area at the filler will be plugged. I guess there's many ways this could've been done. This is what we figured.

I'll just put a 90 degree 1/2" barb - 3/8" NPT fitting to wrap around the stand and back to the SS breather tube.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Oh yeah, today, I got the rounded O2 SS bung welded in today. The exhaust is finished. I'll need to plug the crankcase evac valve while wideband tuning.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[mark tucker]

big nuts dont fit??? I only have big nuts, they work great for me.execpt for the type 3 cooling tin needs a bit of tweeking to fit. no not mily sitten on it hmm on second thought...where's she at

[bugguy1967]

Well they fit if you grind them or they happen to stop in the perfect spot to avoid the base fins. Otherwise, the 19mm O.D. nuts only fit on the lower three and front upper stud nearest the flywheel.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Did a bit of work yesterday. Plan to do a bunch tomorrow. I measured all four deck heights. I had some spare .020" shims that I threw under the barrels because of the positive deck. 1 and 2 side measure out to .026" and .027 while 3 and 4 measure out to -.021" and -.022" after subtracting the shims (.041" to be exact).

The barrels didn't drop all the way down because of those thick areas at the bases. I've dealt with that issue a few times before, so it wasn't a big deal to tackle. I just used my Dremel and a sanding roll. Took about 30 seconds per groove to remove enough material.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Still using the VW parts store CC kit. I'm considering buying a buret and actually using a proper CC'ing liquid next year. I CC'd one head before I ran out of time yesterday. I needed 56 CCs, but the machine shop got me closer to 55-55.5, which is fine. I was still going to do a little clean-up work inside the chambers, so I'll get an extra CC from that. After CC'ing each chamber, I just wipe it dry, and spray WD-40, then wipe it dry again.

I have a ton of mods to do to the F.I. shroud. I forgot to add the relocation of the throttle cable and the cutouts for the breather tubes that'll run under the shroud directly beneath the alternator backing plate.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

I know everyone east of me will think I'm being a wuss, but this 50-55 degree weather has been slowing me down. South Cali people get it though. I've had the heater going in the garage with my coffee or tea just to keep me working. I grabbed some cylinder shim assortments and O.E. quality valve covers yesterday and today I just spent the day fixing the match porting job and getting an extra half cc out of each of the chambers. I asked for 56, but it looks like I got closer to 55, so some more grinding was necessary. I brought home a stick of Castrol grease that we use for cutting at work. Idk what it's called, but it really helps when grinding on aluminum to not gum up the sanding drums. I wish I could show the before and after alignment of the intake ports and the manifolds, but it was too hard to get a clear shot with my phone.

I have .069" worth of shims under one of the barrels right now (.047" actual deck), which would put me around 9.9-10.0:1 static, but I'm thinking I should just go and grab some .080" shims, which will probably be in the high .070s after deburring them. I'd feel safer in the 9.8:1 range. I installed one head just to see how long those studs actually were. I need to shorten them about 7mm so they don't interfere with the tins, manifolds, or rocker shafts. I'm wondering if I should cut them on the lathe or just use a cut-off wheel.

Tomorrow, I'll run to the shop, grab the shims, and re-fill on my shaft shims. I probably have over 30 more measurements that I still need to take, so I need to get on it.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[Anvil]

[Anvil]

[wilbur]

I thought I was familiar with the Castrol product line...

[bugguy1967]

Yeah, that's what it must be! Stick wax. I can cut twice as fast vs grinding dry.

Also, about the dowels, that is a good point. The intake manifolds were off up to a millimeter in certain areas. The stud holes are fairly tight, so there's not as much movement as some brands. I wanted to ream the out and install some brass inserts that snugged them up perfectly, but with all the mods that I'm already doing elsewhere, it may not happen.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Went and refilled on rocker side-play shims and got some more cylinder shims. These days, the EMPI cylinder shims are a lot better than Bugpack's. They're wider, and they Appear to be cut, instead of stamped.

I made a rookie mistake this evening. I got everything ready to set up these rockers when I realized that the EMPI/Bugpack shims that are available in most shops aren't the same I.D. as the ratio rocker shims. The rockers came without shims, so all I have right now is the .033" shims that are on the rocker assy. I went online and ordered some spring steel shims with the same dimensions from a hardware supply in .2mm, .3mm, .5mm, and 1.0mm for waay less than I could get them for in a parts store. They'll come in the mail on Friday.

I mocked up a cylinder head for rocker geometry, and was curious to see how the tin would fit. With .057" deck, the tin fit very well. We're settling on .050" even, so it'll actually fit even more snugly.

Was interested to see how well the oiling holes lined up, so I checked the oil hole in the rocker in comparison to the hole in the adjuster. The rocker's hole was more or less in the dead center of the adjuster boss, 7mm deep on each side. For the oil holes to line up, 1.5mms need to be exposed from the cup side, and 8.1mms need to be exposed on the allen socket side. There is almost 2.5mms of clockwise adjustment before there would be an oiling issue. This info is good to know when setting up geometry.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[mark tucker]

you got kinda thin between the intake ports,there's not much power there at all but can be a good place for the gadget to go missing.and yes the shims are different, you need the .767 shims(.762 shaft). see all those forging lines on the rocker's? I remove all that exsess and totaly deburr so less chance of a failure due to stress rizer's.
also try to keep close to a .040 piston to head clearance for a good quench and clean burn. I aggree on the empi vs bugpoop.oh somuch empi stuff is much better then the bugpoop stuff these days although you cant convince a die hard empi hater.I for one dont care who's name is on the package most of the time because they dont make it any way.I do prefer cb stuff,then scat or empi bugpoop is the last well just befor latest rage.Ive just had and seen too much crap over the past 5 years from bp.and all they do is blame somebpody else.most everywhere I go it's a joke worse than empi was just 5 years ago.it's a total shame as they have the capability to do good work but would rather put out poop and flame the guys that speak up about crap. I do assume they do still make some good stuff(package it)...but I havent seen it.

as far as tin fitment I use some plastic/rubber "C" chanel on the tins so they dont eat at the case like they tend to do. and seal better,no chafing &rusting of the tins. and be sure to fit the intakes to the tin also.

[bugguy1967]

Yeah Mark, it is thin in that area, but was already pretty thin. The problem was, the intake manifolds weren't really matched. I'm sure SCAT just orders a bunch of heads and a bunch of manifolds and the head guy just uses his template to knock out a lot of sets at once. No actual matching was done. As for getting the .040" deck, the closest I can get is .038". I'm at .050" right now, and the .010" shim actually measures out to .012".

Yesterday, I started to try and get the geometry worked out. I first checked to make sure the valve's tips were aligned. If they're off, they can cause problems if you measure on one of the lower ones. If they are slightly off, either get them aligned, or work out geometry on the highest one. These were all dead on. I torqued the head onto one cylinder to 18 ft lbs dry, for now with one my twice-a-year calibrated torque wrench.

I marked one lash cap with a Sharpie to see the contact area. On my last build, I modified my adjustable pushrod to mimic a regular pushrod better. More on my pushrod later...

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"