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im_buggin
Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2013
Posts: 11
Location: Roseville, CA
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 Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:30 pm Post subject: 205AJ dizzy with Solex 30/31 carb |
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I've been looking around the Internet and haven't been able to find much information as to weather or not this dizzy/carb combo are appropriate. Anyone have any insight for me?
If I should be running something else, what combo should it be?
I have a 1600 sp from a 71 I believe.
Btw, I'm new around here. I've been a quite observer for a while but finally joined the sight last week. Ive always loved bugs and I got my first one about a month ago. I'm pretty stoked. It's a 68 standard. I look forward to getting your guys insight on getting this thing in too notch shape! |
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Luft kühl
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009
Posts: 1178
Location: Allentown, PA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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1970 was the only year for the 1600cc single port. This was the "B" code engine. You can verify this by looking at the engine number which is located directly below the the generator stand.
The 1970 engine had a 113 905 205 T distributor and 30 pict-3 carburetor. This is the combination that I would suggest that you use for the 1600 sp.
Since there were so many different models used, always use the entire part number when posting a question about a distributor.
I am assuming that 205 AJ means that you have the 113 905 205 AJ model. This distributor was paired with the 34 pict-3 on the 1971 dual port engine. A 34 pict-3 will not fit on your single port intake manifold.
Have fun with your new beetle ! |
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im_buggin
Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2013
Posts: 11
Location: Roseville, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:18 am Post subject: |
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I was indeed talking about the 113 905 205 AJ. And yes if I remember right the engine is a BR... does that sound right?
What a bummer, I was hoping I could replace either the distributor or the carb to fix the mismatch, but now I need both! lol. It doesnt run bad at all. It actually runs really well. I was just looking into all of this stuff to see what kind of mismatched puzzle I was working with. Thanks for your knowledge though! Time to start saving for expensive parts! |
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cletus_zuber
Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2010
Posts: 2407
Location: Gladstone, Ore
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| Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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_________________
1972 1302
HPMX 40's & 019 |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry if this is a bit off topic but I have a question about a carb as well, I have a 1973 Superbeetle engine I got for my dune buggy build and I've started taking it apart and I'm curious about something that was bolted onto the carb, Its a metal tube that goes down and bolts into sheet metal and is bent at an angle. it looks to have had a rubber hose on the underside at one time but I have no idea what it is or what it was for. I have several old VW books at home but nothing that has this on any engine... any thoughts?
Edit: I'm on my phone so I don't have a pic at the moment but I was able to find one online. its the shiny one that looks like its about to touch the belt and pulley
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/306938.jpg |
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Aussiebug
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:45 pm Post subject: |
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| im_buggin wrote: |
I was indeed talking about the 113 905 205 AJ. And yes if I remember right the engine is a BR... does that sound right?
What a bummer, I was hoping I could replace either the distributor or the carb to fix the mismatch, but now I need both! lol. It doesnt run bad at all. It actually runs really well. I was just looking into all of this stuff to see what kind of mismatched puzzle I was working with. Thanks for your knowledge though! Time to start saving for expensive parts! |
Hi buggin, and welcome.
Luft Kuhl had it almost right. The B series 1600 sp engine in the bug was USA 1970 only (still 1500 H engines elsewhere in the world that year - plus 1300s and 1200s as options). But the 1600 B series engines were also used on 68, 69 and 70 buses all over the world. If it was originally a bus engine, there would be extra (unused) holes in the case below the oil pump - the buses used a cross member support there which bugs dont need/use.
The 1600sp B engine originally came with a 30PICT/3 carb, and it used an SVSA (single vacuum single advance) 113 905 205T distributor - that means vacuum advance only, no mechanical component.
The H30/31 carb is fractionally larger in the throat than the 30 carbs (up from 24mm to 25.5mm) for good airflow, BUT they have a very low vacuum signal, so they struggle to pull in vacuum advance on either the SVSA distributors or the later SVDA distributors.
The H30/31 usually comes with very lean jetting too - an emissions thing, which makes it hard to tune and to keep in tune. In fact the main jet supplied is so lean they have to use an oversize idle jet to stop it stalling at lower rpms. So they usually run better with altered jetting - for a vacuum distributor, try 55 idle, 125 main jet, 125 air correction (it usually has that already) and 60 or 65 power jet. The idle and power jets are interchangeable so you might be able to swap one or other and only buy one extra.
So some options are...
1. You can either get an SVDA (single vacuum double advance) distributor like the 043 905 205, the 113 905 205AL or the Mexican 043 905 205ZB and get the points plate spring lightened so the available vacuum will pull in the vaccum part of the advance, or
2. You can use a 009 distributor which has only centrifugal (mechanical) advance, but doing THAT means you will almost certainly have the dreaded 009 sumbles, because the 009 will not begin to advance until about 1200rpm when the engine wants some advance right off idle, so you then need to mod the carb for richer running to partially compensate (55 idle, 127.5 main, 125 air correction and 65 power jet, plus set the accel pump for max squirt) or
3. You can try to find a Euro 31PICT/3 carb which was used on the 1971+ 1300 twin port engines which were still common outside the USA. These have the larger throat of the H30/31 but still have the better vacuum signal so should work with unmodified vacuum distributors. They work fine with a 1600sp engine and will fit straight on the inlet manifold.
Have a chat to Tim at www.volksbitz.com - he can make some suggestions and is very good at carbs and distributors.
_________________
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com
Last edited by Aussiebug on Mon Dec 15, 2014 1:33 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Aussiebug
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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| eschmi wrote: |
Sorry if this is a bit off topic but I have a question about a carb as well, I have a 1973 Superbeetle engine I got for my dune buggy build and I've started taking it apart and I'm curious about something that was bolted onto the carb, Its a metal tube that goes down and bolts into sheet metal and is bent at an angle. it looks to have had a rubber hose on the underside at one time but I have no idea what it is or what it was for. I have several old VW books at home but nothing that has this on any engine... any thoughts?
Edit: I'm on my phone so I don't have a pic at the moment but I was able to find one online. its the shiny one that looks like its about to touch the belt and pulley
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/306938.jpg |
That was for exhaust gas re-circulation (EGR) - an emissions thing. If it's not connected up now you can remove the whole thing and block any exposed holes in the carb. The pic in that link also has a throttle positioner on the throttle arm - they were designed to shut the throttle slowly when you lifted off, to reduce unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust. If your carb has one, it can be removed to turn the carb into a "straight" 34PICT/3.
_________________
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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| awesome! Thanks for the info! I was worried it was something important lol |
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Zafara
Samba Member
Joined: October 31, 2013
Posts: 76
Location: Southwest Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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I have a 30/31 and a 205T on my 1600SP, and I am totally happy with the combo. Good power, 25mpg, and good acceleration. I'm not sure if the carb has been re-jetted or not (PO had a 009 in it), but I plan on keeping this combo.
_________________
'70 Beetle, 80k miles in the early 80's, gone.
'65 Bus, 250k+ miles '80's-00's, gone.
'69 Beetle, daily driver now! |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm probably sticking with the stock carb for now since I'm on a budget for this build :/ |
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Aussiebug
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Zafara wrote: |
| I have a 30/31 and a 205T on my 1600SP, and I am totally happy with the combo. Good power, 25mpg, and good acceleration. I'm not sure if the carb has been re-jetted or not (PO had a 009 in it), but I plan on keeping this combo. |
It would appear that you have a good H30/31 then, one with enough vacuum signal to pull in the vacuum-only advance of the 205T.
It's great when things work well.
_________________
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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| what's a straight 34 pict? I know absolutely nothing about carbs except that they regulate the fuel/air mixture. I'll try to get a pic of mine up tomorrow |
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