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UPDATE -With Picture. Coolant weeping - from where?
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GreenG
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:20 am    Post subject: UPDATE -With Picture. Coolant weeping - from where? Reply with quote

Hi all - I have a relatively new to me 88 Westy. As I was changing out the fuel lines I noticed some white spotting on some of the water hoses right around the thermostat housing. I thought one of the 37 hoses going into that housing might be leaking, but that does not seem to be the case. After a drive, there is a very slight wetness on top of the motor just back from and under that area (where the head/cooling jacket is). After some research I'm now thinking this is the dreaded head gasket leak??? I guess it didn't occur to me, because when I think head gasket leaks, I think coolant escaping into the combustion chamber not out to the outside, but it's a pressurized system, so I guess that makes perfect sense if there is a weak point in the seal there. Is there a real fix other than pulling the motor? If it's minor, can it wait, or is this one of those things that turns bad quickly?

Sorry for the long post...

UPDATE:

I did pressure test and found a small pinhole, but I am also seeing water on top of the head dripping down. Here's the picture - Thermostat housing at the bottom of the picture -water circled in red. Notice the white spots on the surrounding area. Dried coolant I think... It looks like the leak is starting somewhere under the intake - my diagnoses is one of the center head bolts - seems like I could remove one at a time and reseal...


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Last edited by GreenG on Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:30 pm; edited 5 times in total
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post a pic?
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be a leak from many possible places..some are bad news (head gaskets..the water jackets) or good news..an "O" ring on a temp sensor or sender..

See if your local FLAPS has a loaner program for a cooling system pressure tester..with the VW adapter..or just buy one.

Pressure test the system (to about 12psi..and cold so you don't scald yourself) when the Vanagon is up on ramps or on a lift so you can go under and look with a flashlight..

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GreenG
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dobryan wrote:
Can you post a pic?


Good idea Embarassed

I'll put one up as soon as I get home this evening.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AtlasShrugged wrote:
...See if your local FLAPS has a loaner program for a cooling system pressure tester..with the VW adapter..or just buy one...


Most FLAPS have the loaner tool but I could not find one that had the adaptors.

I got them from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKTJXM/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKTJYG/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_2
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davideric9
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can try the Subaru Coolant conditioner. I just found a leak between the thermostat housing and the block, and a crack in the housing at the screw hole. Clean up that area and confirm the leak location.

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djkeev
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you start dumping sealer chemicals in, find your leak.

Pressure test when cold.

That plastic thermostat housing is known for cracking after two decades, it wouldn't be foolish to replace that along with the plastic dustribution tower mounted to the right firewall as well.

And your plastic front to rear coolant pipes..... The ends crack
And your plastic heater tees.......
And your heater valves.....
And your mostly clogged radiator......
And your seeping heater core along with your seized blower fan and remove the mouse crap while you're in there.....
While it's drained, replace the smaller hoses, especially around the oil coolers....
Of course the oil coolers fail as well......

Wink

Ka Ching!

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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No sealants until ALL fasteners, clamps, hoses, junctions, heater cores and engine gaskets are properly checked, tightened and tested Exclamation

Once you have validated an exterior head gasket weep as the issue, seal it up with your choice of sealant and get ready for a complete engine reseal, it is time.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the mileage on your rig?

What is the mileage since your head (water jacket) gaskets were replaced?

What is the mileage since your engine was rebuilt?

The answers to the questions may be important in deciding which course of action to take.
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GreenG
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
What is the mileage on your rig?

What is the mileage since your head (water jacket) gaskets were replaced?

What is the mileage since your engine was rebuilt?

The answers to the questions may be important in deciding which course of action to take.


Ha! 217K total. 115 on "new" engine built by PO (an airline mechanic).
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head gaskets last on average 80k miles when DIYed in my experiences.

Sounds like it is time for a reseal.

I highly recommend The Right Stuff sealant and NEW AMC heads for the longest duration of sealing.

If the heads were JB welded to mend past corrosion, new ones are needed for reliability.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

<<If the heads were JB welded to mend past corrosion, new ones are needed for reliability

Amen to this---
The JB weld tactic is at best a slipshot move--instant gratification patch.

How fast foks levitate to the repair in a bottle in a tough to locate leak situation--
Don't fix it--dump a bottle of the liquid repair in a bottle--
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GreenG
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a fix it once, fix it well kind of guy, and I like working on the thing, so I'll probably put new heads on (or maybe new motor Very Happy ).

Here's my question/thought - if it's just weeping the slightest amount and I'm not having to add coolant I'm tempted to not worry about it too much at the moment unless this is the type of issue that tends towards catastrophic failure rather than gradual....
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Plastic coolant parts = possible catastrophic occurance.

Quick uncontrolled coolant loss can very well cost you an engine ..........very quickly.

Dave
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GreenG
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
Old Plastic coolant parts = possible catastrophic occurance.

Quick uncontrolled coolant loss can very well cost you an engine ..........very quickly.

Dave


Just to be clear, I'm not talking about the thermostat housing or the associated hardware. That's on my list to replace anyway - I'm just talking about the small weep from (possibly) the head.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GreenG wrote:
djkeev wrote:
Old Plastic coolant parts = possible catastrophic occurance.

Quick uncontrolled coolant loss can very well cost you an engine ..........very quickly.

Dave


Just to be clear, I'm not talking about the thermostat housing or the associated hardware. That's on my list to replace anyway - I'm just talking about the small weep from (possibly) the head.


A weepy head (water jacket) gasket can be controlled for 10's of thousands of miles by using the Subaru Coolant Conditioner. If you leak is from something worse, like the head bolts failing nothing will keep your engine together for long.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There ya go.
Don't repair the problem.
Toss a bottle of liquid band aide into the cooling system.

Standard operating procedure here.
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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 1.9 engine had a small coolant leak and slight coolant smell when I bought it and after reading these forums I thought it must be a major problem. But all it needed was a new o-ring on the water pump and it is perfectly fine now.

These forums can be a bit like those medical web sites where you can find a fatal disease that can match any symptom you have even when it is really nothing major.

I would forget about new heads or an engine rebuild until you have done your pressure test and found the problem - it may be something very minor that is easily fixed.
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GreenG
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think pressure testing the system sounds like the best first step here. What PSI does the system run at?

Interestingly, the PO did include a bottle of the Subaru stuff, but told me not to use it unless it was the only option to get home...
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GreenG wrote:
I think pressure testing the system sounds like the best first step here. What PSI does the system run at?

Interestingly, the PO did include a bottle of the Subaru stuff, but told me not to use it unless it was the only option to get home...


Sounds like your seepage may have been around for a long time. Using the Subaru Conditioner will not hurt anything, it is a conditioner after all and will lessen corrosion and other cooling system problems. I have been using the Subaru stuff for at least 5 years at this point and used the NAPA cooling system conditioner for decades before that. I pretty much won't run without it. Had your PO used coolant conditioner regularly over his ownership you might not have a leak now, plus both your radiator and heater cores might be in better shape.

FWIW, my Toyota has not had an antifreeze change in over twenty years at this point and when using both coolant test strips and a meter the coolant checks out fine, coolant conditioners works!
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