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Zeen
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
With is the best route in terms of Optima? I see the colors each have different "uses" my starting battery is ~5 years old, and the aux. battery is who knows how old. I'm thinking an optima is really best suited for the aux. because it will hold a charge better and can stand to be charged and nearly completely discharged. Is there a better option for the starting battery too? Or should I go with two optimas?

Which color/size?


For starting you want the Red Top 34R, R for reversed terminals, correct for a bus. http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en/shop/redtop/o...rsed-post/

I've had great luck with mine, holds a charge all winter and fires right up in the spring. And no rust in the battery tray from acid fumes or spillage.

For auxiliary, a Yellow Top deep cycle would be better.

You can get them on Amazon for a decent price, with no core charge and free shipping if you a Prime member.
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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the red top is best for a starting battery while the yellow tops are better for the aux battery?

EDIT:

I did some reading, answered my own question on group/size.
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Zeen
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
So the red top is best for a starting battery while the yellow tops are better for the aux battery?
I'm guessing that they are classed similarly in group?


Correct. Either one can work in either application, but the Red Tops deliver more surge amps for starting, while the Yellow has more reserve capacity and is more tolerant of deep-cycling.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a side note on the Interstate batteries, they have a warranty on them for at least two years' free replacement. You should be able to call Interstate or stop by a shop that sells them, and they will take care of you..Probably will need the receipt though.
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mygreenbus
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Yellow Opitmas are deep cycle, great for auxillary. The red are the everyday battery. I run the Opitma 34R in all our VW's.
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The Quaint Gypsy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to bring an older post to life but I am looking to replace the battery in my 70 Bay. It (supposedly) was brand new when I bought her less than two years ago but now the battery is not holding its charge like before. My hand is currently covered with deep tissue burns so I cant pull the darn thing out to see what brand and size, so while searching for info, I happened upon this posting. While looking at the picks, I see that on the batteries, the negative is to the front of the vehicle, while on my current battery the neg is to the rear, the posts being on top of the battery and on the ide cloet to the engine ( on passenger side of the bus). I do not run a radio or any externals and have no draw on mine, it is just time to replace it so I want to replace it correctly, so any brand and series/model number would be great and yep, I on am a fixed income budget so reasonably priced too would be great.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are correct that the replacement battery should have terminals arranged so that they are inboard (on the engine side of the battery), and with the negative terminal forward. This is done so that if the battery were to break free in a crash, it would be the negative terminal that gets slammed forward into the metal of the body, not the positive (which would start a fire).

As for which brand/type is best, this information changes all the time. What may have been a great brand 5 or 2 years ago may not be the best today.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I researched and then replaced my battery several years ago with an Interstate. I found that the $cost per months of warranty was about the same for all sizes. I went with the biggest battery with the longest warranty. It was the most expensive, but in the long run the $/month value meant fewer replacements over the years. I drove the camper to Interstate and disconnected the old battery. I pleaded old age and they removed the old battery and put the new battery in the tray. I bolted it down, hooked it up and I was on my way.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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The Quaint Gypsy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok. but your terminals are hard to get to from the way you have it installed: I cant hardly get to the terminals as it is with them facing the engine But thanks for the good to know info and pic =])
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Quaint Gypsy wrote:
ok. but your terminals are hard to get to from the way you have it installed: I cant hardly get to the terminals as it is with them facing the engine But thanks for the good to know info and pic =])


The ground strap has a post clamp with a bolt and wing nut. It can be undone or tightened with a finger and an opposing thumb. Very easy to disconnect when doing electrical work or for storage. The positive cable is a red 2g from Pep Boys. With a long battery warranty it only needs to be unfastened every five years.

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The Quaint Gypsy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay, i see what you are saying now. TY!
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merlinj79
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
WhirledTraveller wrote:
I will probably spring the extra dough for an Optima battery, for the simple reason that they are completely sealed and should not contribute to the rusting of my battery tray.


Or use a standard battery and put it in a plastic battery box. And coat the terminals and cable ends with the goop that totally elimates corrosion. Eleven years and I have never cleaned the terminals, cable ends or tray. They are as immaculate as new. Replaced the battery twice but they were as spotlessly clean and dry as when new.


I've always used standard batteries but am thinking of switching to sealed to ease maintenance and reduce corrosion.

But a benefit of standard IMO is that, although I have to add water, I can use the opportunity to check the health of each cell. In SOCAL I never need massive cold-cranking amps so I can routinely get 7-8 years out of a battery. In my experience if any one cell gets to where it won't charge to 50%, then it's time for a new battery. But as long as each cell floats at least two balls after a long charge, I've never been stranded (in SOCAL, don't try this in Edmonton).

If I switch to sealed, I won't have that kind of insight into the health of the battery. Are there cheap testers equivalent to the ones the FLAPS uses, and are they any good? For that matter are the FLAPS testers any good? Or are they just good at selling batteries?
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The Quaint Gypsy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one in My bus is not sealed but yet, you cannot add water to it and I have not been able to add water to any "modern" batteries I have bought for years.... Back in the 70's and 80's it was required but these day, they batteries I have do not allow it and they are not "sea;ed' batteries, but the lower cost "normal" batteries... so I am curious....
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of information here, but it will bring us up to date on nomenclature, useage, and maintenance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead–acid_battery
the link only takes you to Lead Sad
you may have to cut and paste into google to get the battery info

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery

this tool is your friend
http://www.harborfreight.com/battery-terminal-cleaner-94450.html
available at all flaps

Aloha
tp
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The Quaint Gypsy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, but that still leaves those like me, who live in rural "american" areas, with retailer/service people who either do not have knowledge of vintage VW's or do not want to do so, and as such, are not able to know at least a list of common access batteries for their vehicles... the best type/ size and vendor that works with the stock would be nice, then we can figure it out from there when we have numbers to research....
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/Content.aspx?ds...2147384906

Interstate All Battery Center
1730 South E Street
San Bernardino, CA 92408
(909) 381-2082

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tp
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The Quaint Gypsy
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know that battery, its posts are not the match up I like.. I do not like having them to the inside and not facing the engine given how hard it is just to get hte battery in and out PLUS my Bay hasbody damage too... so I need something with the neg to the rear that also is closer to the engine and not body... I do have tabs I attqach so I can run a thing or two in winter but they are only hooked up in winter and I am disab;ed, I need to be able to reach them at any given moment without more than normal effort. Having the above posted battery just does not work for me. and again, I aplogize for typos but right now, typing with deep tissue burns to my hand and fingers...
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Quaint Gypsy wrote:
... how hard it is just to get hte battery in and out ...


The interstate battery has a five year warranty. Do it now with a convenient ground strap clamp with stud and wing nut and be happy for five years. It's easy to reach with either hand, no tools required. If it's absolutely necessary to have the posts facing the engine, install it on the driver's side. Why make a simple thing so complicated?

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tp
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udidwht
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Powell wrote:
The Quaint Gypsy wrote:
... how hard it is just to get hte battery in and out ...


The interstate battery has a five year warranty. Do it now with a convenient ground strap clamp with stud and wing nut and be happy for five years. It's easy to reach with either hand, no tools required. If it's absolutely necessary to have the posts facing the engine, install it on the driver's side. Why make a simple thing so complicated?

Aloha
tp


Or just turn the battery around (passenger side). Even simpler.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading through various posts, I decided to go with a group 75 batter because of the side mount post plus higher CCA than the group 41/42. The battery is also smaller.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bought Interstate battery at Costco in Temecula Ca for $89.00. A deal imo!
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