1835/1914

Mr.Sandrail · Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 10:05 pm Post subject: 1835/1914

which is a stronger motor?

Howard 111 · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:18 am Post subject:

The one with the best parts?
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Kjell Roar · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 2:40 am Post subject:

VWCOOL · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 4:20 am Post subject:

The one machined and built by someone who knows what he/she is doing

Glenn · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:23 am Post subject:

Displacement is only one factor.

Cam, carbs, heads all matter.
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GTV · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 7:57 am Post subject:

All other things being equal, of course the 1915 will be "stronger".
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vwracerdave · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:37 am Post subject:

Power is in the heads and the larger piston allows for more valve and porting work. A top quality 1915 can produce more HP but it will not last as long as an equally well built 1835.

So to answer your question........... the 1915 would be "stronger" if you mean more horsepower. The 1835 would be "stronger" if you mean how long it will last.
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Mal evolent · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:44 am Post subject:

I live in the desert, Mohave for 15 years and Sonoran for 21 years. every VW mechanic I talk to says avoid the 1835. 1835s use 92s, and the mechanics say they always come back with cooked rings and pistons.

1914 or 1915s: If you use 3.14 as pi in the calculation, you get a 1914; if you use 3.1416 you get a 1915. 1914s use 94s, which all the gray haired gurus I meet say work fine in the desert.

I am thinking about a 2007: 90.5 X 78. 94 X 78 makes a 2165.
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Jzsquared · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:14 am Post subject:

An 1835 with thickwall pistons in theory should be stronger. You will have a little less horse power but it all depends on what your final expectations are. If you are still in the starting stages have the block bored to 94s then research which way to go. I'm going with 1835 but that also because I'm staying with a single carb until I save enough for a mexican FI kit from Mario. My Thing will never be fast and I don't care about topend but a 1835 will move along quite fine light off-roading

stan_tichomirov · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:14 am Post subject:

If you don't want to have the case opened up for 94s due to 10mm studs, thick wall 92s that slip into a 90.5 case is a good option. I like my 1835, I've been beating on it and doing all sorts of experiments but it runs fairly strong, does not run hot or use oil. If all goes well, it will become a turbocharged experiment some day.

Stan
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VWCOOL · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject:

IIRC, 1835s have a narrower seating surface at the bottom of the barrel and this allows the barrel to sink into the case so head torque is affected. And once this happens, it's rebuild/freshen time for the engine

1916s are wider in this critical area, hence more durable (stronger) as daily driver type motors, as well as on-track where the extra cubes and bore contribute to valve unshrouding, better breathing, snappier low-down torque and a higher power output

This characteristic is usually only evident in higher-mileage motors (daily drivers) where servicing/head torques are few and far between and there is lots of heat cycling (ie: cold starts) between maintenance.

Most track engines tend to not suffer as head torques are usually performed with greater diligence

In other words - if done right (and that is the critical factor) a 1916 will tolerate more abuse

Hope this helps

Mr.Sandrail · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:35 pm Post subject: So what's the scoup on a 1914

Duel 40/44 eis carbs 110 cam, lightened flywheel, and all the bells and whistles on could add,009 distributor. In a sand rail with approx. 950 lbs total weight car and motor. 5" front wheels with 12" wheels on the rear
from a bus. Never taken off road show and some street racing at times. Any good or should I build a bigger motor with turbo. I own Supras also love the turbos.
Benny Alongi
OBTW this is my second custom built motor from MoFoCo quality all the way.


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