Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Bostig RG3 Install
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Forum Index -> Vanagon Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
This page may contain links to eBay where the site receives compensation.
Author Message
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:06 am    Post subject: Bostig RG3 Install Reply with quote

Ok so I decided to just start a new thread for Bostig RG3 installs. Just like the RG1 and RG2 thread, we can keep up with the latest Bostig kit. I'm looking forward to sharing my install and watching the other installs as they progress. I hear insyncro has a new crate motor!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
buildyourown
Samba Member


Joined: March 01, 2009
Posts: 1668
Location: Seattle
buildyourown is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is great. The other thread was great for keeping those of us with older installs up on the possible improvements. I just finished a new throttle cable and intake today on my G16.
Exhaust is next.

One request. Lets keep this thread dedicated to relatively stock RG3 installs. Lets create another thread just for customer designed tweaks.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10-4 buildyourown
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:22 am    Post subject: RG3 Complete! Reply with quote

The whole install took about 70 hours from the moment I drained coolant out of my WBX to the moment the Zetec first sprung to its second life. I received an early release of the RG3 kit because my intent was to do the conversion while my kids were off from school for the holiday. My '85 is a daily driver and serves part-time duty as a school bus so it had to be complete by the 5th of January! I received my shipments from Bostig on the 22nd and immediately got to work. The last trip my 1.9 made was hauling the Bostig conversion kit back to my garage...

Here is a pic of one thing I am looking forward to eliminating. My old WBX is like my tired old incontinent Grandfather for whom I would lovingly clean up after on a daily basis.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JudoJeff
Samba Member


Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
JudoJeff is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great idea to have your own thread. Once these get too long, it's tough to find the info you want.
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JudoJeff
Samba Member


Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
JudoJeff is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:55 am    Post subject: More power? Reply with quote

The NFB design is now up for bid-

insyncro posted:
“Place your bids

http://m.ebay.com/itm/181641441938?nav=BIDDING_ACTIVE

I carefully read the blurb, and here it is in B&W:

“The project has been backburnered for a couple years now since we've been finishing the Bostig System design, and focusing on power adder dev. (which should be out this summer finally)” Jim Akiba

I’m excited, can’t wait to see what’s been done.... Power added development, hmmmmm
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:13 pm    Post subject: RG3 Installed! Reply with quote

I am sorry it is taking so long to update my install notes and pictures...I am having too much fun driving my repowered van!

This is how I received my 2000 Focus motor from a dismantler in LA. It was actually enclosed on a framed pallet that had walls and was wrapped with plastic to cover 5 sides. The motor had been stored inside since the car was dismantled in 2002. It had 21,500 miles on it and I paid $375 shipped. The only damage they reported was that the plastic timing cover was cracked. When I received it, I discovered that the plastic serpentine belt tensioner wheel was damaged by the metal straps they used to secure the engine in an upright position on the pallet. I figured this was a small price to pay to ensure the intake manifold would not be damaged if the engine was stored or fell over on that side. To prepare for the engine's arrival, along with the list of parts required by Bostig to be sourced by me for the install, I ordered a new timing belt, water pump, most sensors, idler and tensioner pulleys, spark plugs, wires, coil, gaskets for the throttle body and IAC, oil filter, air filter, serpentine belt and probably a few other things I am not recalling. I used Rock Auto almost exclusively and was impressed with how affordable all the parts were! Even when ordering the more expensive Motorcraft or Autolite parts, the prices were still very reasonable when compared to similar items for the WBX!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I took the valve cover off - which happened to be metal instead of plastic - and found that the cams and other visible metal bits were clean of varnish. While inside, I used the timing tool I purchased used from Amazon ($18.00) to check timing. It was fine so I left it alone.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I removed the plugs and looked inside and found that the pistons were mostly covered with a layer of carbon. I found this very discouraging but Jim assured me this is normal for a motor that was probably started at the yard to be sure it would run and quickly shut down to dismantle. He said it would burn off naturally. I have not checked it in the 700 miles I have driven it since the installation. If the carbon is still caked on the crowns, Jim said I could warm up the motor and while running, slowly introduce about a cup of water through a vac port to steam clean the deposits. You have to do this slowly in order to not vapor lock the motor and damage it beyond repair!!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is how the old plugs looked. They were dark but not sooty or oily. I was a little worried about this too. I have not pulled the new plugs for inspection yet but the engine is running really well and I expect the new plugs will indicate a normal tune.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


More later...I have to upload some more pics![/img]
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JudoJeff
Samba Member


Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
JudoJeff is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your plugs and pistons looked good! My plugs were rusted badly. You picked up a cherry zetec engine. My idler pulley was also damaged, quick, easy, and cheap to replace.

I wouldn't do the "steam cleaning" of the pistons, no need really.

Hope you saved all the parts to use as spares, I'm sure they are in good condition.

Most, if not all engines, come with cracked cam timing covers.
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:34 pm    Post subject: DIY Purple Fuel Injection Harness Plug Installation Reply with quote

The Bostig DIY kit to convert your fuel injection wiring harness from whatever plug it came with to the required 'purple plug' was a piece of cake to install. The provided instructions from Bostig were excellent. The kit comes with the plug, male contact pins, rubber seal rings and a special crimping tool. The only other tools required are a wire stripper and a tiny flat blade screw driver to release the pins from the existing plug. The process involves removing each of the existing pins, cutting the existing pin off the wire, strip about 5/16" of insulation off of the wire, crimp a new provided pin and seal ring onto the wire and insert into the proper spot in the new plug. You perform this operation removing one wire at a time from the existing plug, crimp the new pin and insert into the new plug. The operation is done one wire at a time to keep the order consistent. You will be converting a plug with 4 rows and 4 columns of pins to one with 2 rows and 8 columns of pins.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You insert the screw driver in such a way to release the plastic tab that secures the pin. In this picture, I have already removed the red-plastic cover to expose the tabs that lock the pins

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This horrible picture is shows how you clip off the existing pin as close to the end of the wire as possible in order to preserve as much of the wire length as possible.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This equally bad picture shows about 5/16" of exposed wire ready to have the new pin crimped on.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Slide the seal ring onto the wire as such.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Crimp the new pin to the wire using one slot in the tool - a larger slot is used to crimp the bottom of the pin to the insulation to further secure the connection.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Insert the pin into the new plug in such a way that the barb on the pin is secured by it's counterpart inside the plug.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Once complete, you install the purple 'comb' to align and lock all the pins in an upright position

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The purple face of the plug is actually a cover that snaps into position once all the pins are inserted. If you made a mistake with the wire order and you have to remove some pins to swap positions, you remove this cover to release the tabs that secure the barbs of the metal pins.

This process took me about an hour and the hardest part was being able to see the small and faint letters and numbers inscribed on the plugs that indicate the order of the pins.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jbnova
Samba Member


Joined: August 20, 2010
Posts: 118
Location: Ellensburg, WA
jbnova is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 11:20 pm    Post subject: Zetec Motors Reply with quote

countrybicycle wrote:

This is how I received my 2000 Focus motor from a dismantler in LA. It was actually enclosed on a framed pallet that had walls and was wrapped with plastic to cover 5 sides. The motor had been stored inside since the car was dismantled in 2002. It had 21,500 miles on it and I paid $375 shipped.


I'm shopping for my motor for RG3. Other than countrybicycle's low-mileage motor for $375 shipped, what kind of mileage and prices is everyone dealing with for their builds? I've got lots of 80k mile engines in the $450 range within an hour or two of me. But I'm also seeing lots of engines with less than 50k miles under $350 (+shipping) in other parts of the country.

What's everyone comfortable with as far as mileage and cost go? How much is it worth to you to see the engine first-hand before you buy it and bring it home?

Paying an extra $150-$200 seems worth it to me if I don't have to buy something sight unseen. And if I don't have to spend half a day calling different yards around the country.

Seems like 80K miles is nothing for these engines. Is it worth holding out for a well-priced, low mileage engine that's been sitting in the tall grass since 2003?

Thanks!!
Justin
_________________
1986 Westfalia Weekender
2wd; Bostig RG3
GoWesty (H&R) 1.5" Lift Springs + 0.5" pad in rear.
Bilstein Shocks
16" Mefros, Cooper Discoverer AT3 (215-70-16)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JudoJeff
Samba Member


Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
JudoJeff is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Justin,

An 80,000 mile engine can outlast a 40,000, all depends on how its' been treated. The zetec is a 200,000 mile design, if well taken care of.

I'd look for an engine with around 30,000. Plenty of them here in New England. car-parts.com is the best way to find them. One with 14k and another with 5k were available in CT, last time I looked. (EBay has the highest priced, highest mileage engines.) Or just move through the listings from your location state-by-state, until you find one you want. (Closer=cheaper shipping fees)

Shipping is at most, $200. Ask the yard a lot of questions, and look at the photos. Most have a cracked cam cover, $50 to replace. (no big deal) One important piece of information is, does the crankshaft turn?

If you post photos of your possible picks, I'll comment on what I see.

Keep in mind the yards don't have much of a market for these engines, they don't fail often enough! So they sell to Bostig folks or to an engine re-manufacturer for a low core price of $100.

A BIG advantage of the Bostig system is IF your engine does fail after xxx,xxx miles, you just yank it and put in another used engine. Everything else is there.
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jbnova
Samba Member


Joined: August 20, 2010
Posts: 118
Location: Ellensburg, WA
jbnova is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JudoJeff,

How do you get photos of the engines? Do you request them from the yard? Unless I'm missing something, I don't see any images with the listings on car-part.com.

Thanks!
Justin
_________________
1986 Westfalia Weekender
2wd; Bostig RG3
GoWesty (H&R) 1.5" Lift Springs + 0.5" pad in rear.
Bilstein Shocks
16" Mefros, Cooper Discoverer AT3 (215-70-16)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
JudoJeff
Samba Member


Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
JudoJeff is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, it can't hurt to ask, they don't have many buyers, honest.

If they won't/can't send photos, ask a lot of questions.
I wrote a "for dummies" engine buying checklist on the Bostig site, because I'd never even seen a zetec when I bought mine. While the Bostig instructions were excellent, it was all Greek to me.

You don't have to be concerned they are lying about the mileage, it's a huge Federal fine, and they'll get kicked off car-parts.
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:52 am    Post subject: HCOP Install Reply with quote

I think the Bostig high capacity oil pan should be a stock item in the kit. I installed mine before I installed the engine so I never got to see what the Zetec oil pan would look like in the van but I imagine it would hang down pretty low!
The new HCOP kits do not come with the oil level sensor so if you want that option, be sure to order it. I thought the HCOP was a pretty easy install. I used The Right Stuff gasket maker in the caulk tube. It fits in a common painter's caulk gun and makes dispensing of the TRS relatively easy and accurate. I had no mess to clean off of my surroundings and the oil pan remains leak-free after the 1000 miles the engine has seen since installation the first of 2015.
While trial fitting the components of the HCOP, I made the mistake of installing the provided replacement oil pickup before I installed the pan. Doing so will make the interior pan bolts closest to the flywheel side of the engine impossible to access. The directions clearly state to install the pan then the pickup. Since I am smarter than the Bostig guys, I thought this was an error in the order of assembly. Once I realized the flaw in my logic, the assembly went without a hitch.
Step 1) FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

WRONG! Try again...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the plug that comes with the kit if you do not install the oil level sensor.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:16 am    Post subject: WBX Removal Reply with quote

I used the 'boat winch method' to lower the WBX from the van and again to raise the Zetec/transaxle assembly back into position. I first saw this method posted by another Samba member and detailed in the RG!-RG2 install group posts. If I find his name, I will give proper credit here.
A friend who performed a Subaru swap at the same time I did my Zetec purchased this boat trailer winch from Harbor Freight for about $30. He built the 'beam' from 2x6's and made the spacers from 2" wide able blocks. This allowed the strap to pass through the slot without restriction. The winch sits on another maple block and includes a set bolt to secure the winch anywhere along the beam. The beam is further elevated off the engine opening by 6x6 blocks. Note that the 6x6's are secured to the beam unifying the unit to keep it stable when hoisting the load.
This 'hoist' is highly recommended. It is much cheaper than a 'real' engine hoist and it is easy to store.
I lowered the WBX and transaxle onto a large flattened cardboard box i sourced from a bike shop and drug the assembly out from under the van. Once clear of the van, i separated the engine from the transaxle and used a chain hoist to raise the transaxle and place it on a furniture dolly to make it easy to move out of the way. I raised the sad WBX high enough to back my pickup under it and lower it into the bed to removed from the premises. I shed a tear...but only one for its service. Good riddance!

With the exception of the cradle bolts and front trans mount, all connections to the van have been severed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Beam in place

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Shows the strap hooked to the D-ring at the hoist loop on the motor

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dragging it out...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
buildyourown
Samba Member


Joined: March 01, 2009
Posts: 1668
Location: Seattle
buildyourown is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 10:26 am    Post subject: Re: Zetec Motors Reply with quote

jbnova wrote:


I'm shopping for my motor for RG3. Other than countrybicycle's low-mileage motor for $375 shipped, what kind of mileage and prices is everyone dealing with for their builds? I've got lots of 80k mile engines in the $450 range within an hour or two of me. But I'm also seeing lots of engines with less than 50k miles under $350 (+shipping) in other parts of the country.

What's everyone comfortable with as far as mileage and cost go? How much is it worth to you to see the engine first-hand before you buy it and bring it home?

Paying an extra $150-$200 seems worth it to me if I don't have to buy something sight unseen. And if I don't have to spend half a day calling different yards around the country.

Seems like 80K miles is nothing for these engines. Is it worth holding out for a well-priced, low mileage engine that's been sitting in the tall grass since 2003?

Thanks!!
Justin


I wouldn't hesitate to buy and engine with 100k for $400 if it looked good and I saw it in the car. That's about what mileage mine had on it. It was very recently wrecked so it hadn't been sitting in the rain for years like some of these. If an engine has 20k on it, its been sitting for at least 12-13 yrs. Stuck injectors, rusty plugs, ring marks on the cylinder walls, etc. All stuff you wont have to sort on an engine that was running recently.
Find a yard with a few of them and make the drive and pick the best.
Also, many yards have varying interpretation of what is included in the engine. Then you get one without the coil or throttle body or whatever.

If you get one in the car, and have them pull it, you can often get lots of other stuff cheap. PS pump, airbox, A/C, etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:25 pm    Post subject: Zetec engine shim and flywheel install Reply with quote

Back to step 1) READ THE DIRECTIONS

During engine prep, we are instructed to remove the Zetec flywheel and stock engine shims. The stock engine shims are secured by plastic push fasteners. We are instructed to remove these carefully because they are to be reused to secure the new Bostig engine shims. The instructions clearly state that these plastic fasteners can be easily removed once the plastic pin that is inserted through the center of the fastener is backed out thereby releasing the tension that holds them in place.
Despite reading the manual cover to cover several times while I waited for my kit to arrive, I somehow glossed over this detail and used the destruction method to remove my push fasteners!
I was able to source new push fasteners from Lowes. The new fasteners do not have the handy expansion pin that helps secure the fastener but rather simply 'barbs' itself inside the hole. According to Jim, this is fine since the fastener is only there to locate the shim before the big aluminum conversion plate is bolted on. Once the plate is in place and torqued, the shims are sandwiched between the plate and the back of the engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note only two push fasteners are needed at the lower shim. The upper shim is located and secured by two large roll pins already on the Zetec - unless you have a crate engine in which case you will have to install these two pins.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note the flywheel holder. The same holder that works for the WBX also works in this application which I guess is no surprise.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Even though it is not shown in the preceding pictures, I did salvage the roll pins from the WBX flywheel and install them into the Bostig flywheel as instructed. Be sure to measure the height of the pins before you remove them and set the pins to that same depth at the new flywheel.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:47 pm    Post subject: Oil Pressure Sender Installation Reply with quote

While the engine was out, I decided it would be prudent to install My Bosch oil pressure sender for my gauge. There is an oil pressure sensor already on the Zetec but it is just for the idiot light and the Bostig wiring harness connects to this sensor to make the Vanagon oil pressure idiot light functional. We like numbers, though, and you can't get numbers from an idiot light!
The Bosch sender has 10mm threads. 1/8"npt also works which is great since these fittings can be easily sourced from Lowes. Home Depot and the like.
The Zetec has a few 1/4"npt plugs on the intake side of the engine. They are at the same approximate level as the Zetec oil pressure sensor. I removed the plug next to the Zetec OP sensor.
From Lowes, I selected two fitting to make a 90deg. adapter. One fitting is a 1/8" to 1/4" adapter. The 90deg. fitting is 1/8"npt on both ends. I used Permatex automotive thread sealer at the fittings. This was a super easy mod and has proven to be leak-free since installed 1k miles ago. I have not installed my gauge yet but with this in place, the rest should be easy.
It sits at a slight angle because that where the adapter kind of ended up when it was tightened down.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 1:02 pm    Post subject: Cobrahead Modification Reply with quote

I read that some installers who tried the 'cobrahead' intake boot before it became stock with the introduction of the RG3 kit had trouble getting the boot to fit over the throttle body diameter. I found that out of the box, the Cobrahead intake is a little smaller than the diameter of the throttle body. To remedy this, I used a heat gun to gently soften the intake side of the CH. I heated the rubber of the CH and tested the fit often. Eventually, I was able to soften the material enough to stretch over the throttle body. Once it fit, left it in place on the TB to set as it cooled. Now its a perfect fit and only requires normal effort to remove and reset. The other side of the CH fits the stock Focus MAF/Airbox without modification.
The only other mods I performed to the airbox was to cut off the 3 legs so it will fit in the left side alcove of the engine compartment and to install a 5/8" to 5/8" brass barbed hose adapter (also from Lowes plumbing department) in the airbox port where the breather hose is attached. This makes the breather hose supplied with the Bostig kit actually fit onto the airbox. The other side of the breather hose is run to the inlet on the valve cover. The installation is very clean. My airbox even retains the stock Focus resonator.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
countrybicycle
Samba Member


Joined: February 23, 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Birmingham, AL
countrybicycle is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 2:03 pm    Post subject: Transaxle and Engine Compartment Cleaning Reply with quote

While it would have been faster to slam the Zetec back into the van and start driving ASAP, there was no way I could accept bolting my shiny clean Zetec to my disgusting, leaking transaxle! Performing an engine conversion is a feat of genius to most mere mortals. Showing it off is mandatory. It is not so impressive if its dirty! The only thing that is dirty is the dirty little secret that this kit is so well designed that almost anyone could perform the conversion on their own!
While the trans was out and before I cleaned it, I drained all the oil out. Check out my afro! My trans does not grind into any gear and while I am unsure how it was treated before I came to own it, I have always taken care not to let it grind into reverse.
I drained the oil not only to take the opportunity to refresh it, but to be able to roll it around and stand it up on the bell housing while I scraped, brushed, scrubbed and picked all the grime off.
I used the Purple Power degreaser. I bought two gallons from Lowes and a spray bottle. I let the trans sit outside for a few days bell housing down on a pallet and I would douse it with the degreaser periodically to try and break down the accumulations. Before that, I scraped off as much buildup as I could so that what was left could easily be penetrated by the degreaser.
When the day finally came to do a final cleaning, the last layer of grime was scrubbed off. It was a difficult time consuming tedious project but the results were what I hoped to achieve. To further ensure the transaxle would stay clean, I took the opportunity to replace the output shaft seals and the selector and pilot shaft seals. I also cleaned out the breather port. It can be seen in the picture of the transaxle serial number.
Not pictured is the overhaul of my CV joints. This was such a nasty job that I did not take any pictures!
I used the Mobil Delvac 75w-90 synthetic gear oil. One 4qt bottle filled the transaxle to a 'bent finger' below the fill port. I found the best price at Zoro
I am fortunate to have a garage space where I can do my wrenching. Cleaning the engine compartment required rolling the van outside, however. With the WBX and tranny removed, the van rides a little taller than normal. As it is, the van barely clears the 7' door height of the garage opening. With the weight off the back, there was no way to get the van out of the garage! Being too lazy to remove the roof rack (complicated by the presence of my solar panel), I engineered a method to lower the van enough to clear the opening and roll it outside....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Vanagon All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Page 1 of 6

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.