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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:49 pm Post subject: manxter wiring |
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How are you guys wiring your buggies? Hiding wires I like how Scott did his manxter with the tubes glassed in. Or running inside side bars? Any ideas |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20379 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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Suggest running wires down side in a tube ... That is what I did,,,
Also so for actual wiring suggest wire loom from Rebel Wiring... Although I did mine years ago with "individual wires" I believe Rebel kit has good reputation and quality product...
http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Wire%20Kits
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6767 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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Wiring is the main reason the glass tubes are there. |
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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The new bodies do not have tubes to run the wires in |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20379 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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BL3Manx wrote: |
Wiring is the main reason the glass tubes are there. |
In older bodies it was cardboard and was a "stiffener" for body lip...
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20379 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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jrailer wrote: |
The new bodies do not have tubes to run the wires in |
Go to Big Box store and get some 1 inch "flex conduit" (electrical section - usually blue and corrugated) and glass it in under body lip.... Did this on one "no name body" build, works great....
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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On the Manxter I just run it inside some DR25 Heat Shrink and then cable tie it to the Side Bar.
If you do want to use conduit then get the smooth sides flex with the smooth inside and the bulk head fittings. You can then simply use a bulk head 90 deg at the front into the tub and the same at the rear but round the back. Using the smooth side means you can run wires easier and it doesn't get caught on the conduit or create rub points.
The stuff I am talking about is usually grey in colour. |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5156
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Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Another great option for tubing is sump pump tubing from your local HD or Lowes:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wayne-1-1-2-in-x-20-ft-Sump-Pump-Discharge-Hose-Kit-66000-WYN1/100119536
20 feet is more than enough for both sides of the buggy. Its 1 1/2" which is a good size. Its cheap at around $10.
I glassed mine in and to run wires I took a roll of twine and stuffed some into the tube. I then used my little shop vac to blow air through the tube. The twine will come flying out the back. Pull about 10 feet through and make a loop. Now you can pull wires through back and forth easily.
When done I left the twine in there and sealed the ends up with silicone. If I ever needed to run additional wires the twine would be there. |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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Here is a picture of Jon's Manxter, he used DilliBlock
. Very nice job'
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0BudgetProductions Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2013 Posts: 53 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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I just took off my tubes (cardboard and two layers of fiberglass) and replaced them with PVC and 3 layers of fiberglass. Was informed by a senior member of the Fraternity of Fiberglass that these were used as support so I made sure I balanced strength and weight. The wiring was 50 years old...horrible! |
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bim55 Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2005 Posts: 438 Location: Dennis Port, MA
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dbsmith Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2012 Posts: 240
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Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 8:35 pm Post subject: Manxter Wiring |
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I'm going to use the 1" flex conduit, run it on top of the side bars and strap it down. A heavy velcro strap should be a good option. If you glass it in there might be problems if you ever wanted to install the side curtains . I got the wiring kit from Watson's Street Works as advertised in Hot Vw's. Still in the box... _________________ dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done.... |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 10:16 am Post subject: |
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bim55 wrote: |
Iguana, there's nothing wrong with that wiring job, nice. |
Not saying their is, as I said with the picture it is a very nice job, the entire buggy is a very high quality build. By using the DilliBlocks and a hand made loom he was able to get a very good result. |
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dbsmith Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2012 Posts: 240
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:35 pm Post subject: Manxter wiring |
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So when I put together the wireless connectors, do you use both the heat shrink tubing along with the silicone dielectric grease, or just the heat shrink tubing. Been reading conflicting reports. _________________ dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done.... |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20379 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:15 am Post subject: Re: Manxter wiring |
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dbsmith wrote: |
So when I put together the wireless connectors, do you use both the heat shrink tubing along with the silicone dielectric grease, or just the heat shrink tubing. Been reading conflicting reports. |
I prefer with silicone dielectric grease.... BUT .... Dielectric grease is a non-conductor and can insulate a connection also.... That said, dielectric grease does also seal a connection and keep out moisture and oxygen, the causes of corrosion, IF you have GOOD MECHANICAL CONNECTION under the grease its non-conduction factor is a non-issue... ITS all about the MECHANICAL CONNECTION, whether crimp is tight and proper, or screw connection is clean and tight etc:... IF wiring is not going to see any harsh weather grease may not be needed.... My buggies (both) are wired using the grease and I have never had a wiring issue with connections/connectors in 12 years since I rebuilt my red one, and the race buggy that came and went inside the 12 years parameter of red car...
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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didget69 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004 Posts: 4927 Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 11:22 am Post subject: |
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If you opt to use a screw-down connection on the ends of stripped wire, I'd recommend that you solder tin the bare ends first. This allows you to terminate the wire end without smooshing* out the wires. Another option I've used are Wire Ferrules on the ends of stripped wire when used in terminal blocks.
http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/WIRE_FERRULES.htm
* 'Smooshing' - a good general-purpose Engineering term.
bnc _________________ I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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Tom_Kathleen Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2004 Posts: 919 Location: Vernon, CT
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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I know people recommend certain brands of wiring kits and some swear by the Rebel kits. I have used Rebel and Watson's and like them both. I have also used the $45 "buggy bag of wires kit" and didn't like that at all. The reason the Rebel is cheaper is that you get no ground wires or connectors. The wiring diagram is better for the Rebel if you use VW switches, otherwise, I think the quality is about the same. Tom _________________ Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5475 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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didget69 wrote: |
If you opt to use a screw-down connection on the ends of stripped wire, I'd recommend that you solder tin the bare ends first. This allows you to terminate the wire end without smooshing* out the wires. Another option I've used are Wire Ferrules on the ends of stripped wire when used in terminal blocks.
http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/WIRE_FERRULES.htm
* 'Smooshing' - a good general-purpose Engineering term.
bnc |
I do not recommend tinning the wires together if you are using screw terminals. Lead has a problem with cold creep, it moves slowly under pressure at room temperature. This tends to cause pressure connections to loosen over time. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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clonebug Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 4027 Location: NW Washington
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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I have crimped, soldered and heat shrink-ed every engine and lighting connection on my buggy and have not had a wiring related issue with it in ten plus years and almost 45,000 miles.
YMMV _________________
vwracerdave wrote: |
Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see. |
Paul.H wrote: |
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
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Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
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http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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didget69 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2004 Posts: 4927 Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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EVfun wrote: |
didget69 wrote: |
If you opt to use a screw-down connection on the ends of stripped wire, I'd recommend that you solder tin the bare ends first. This allows you to terminate the wire end without smooshing* out the wires. Another option I've used are Wire Ferrules on the ends of stripped wire when used in terminal blocks.
http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/WIRE_FERRULES.htm
* 'Smooshing' - a good general-purpose Engineering term.
bnc |
I do not recommend tinning the wires together if you are using screw terminals. Lead has a problem with cold creep, it moves slowly under pressure at room temperature. This tends to cause pressure connections to loosen over time. |
I'll be certain to note your point and discuss it with my engineering team at Phoenix Contact that designs & manufactures the terminal blocks & specs out the design & usage criteria.
Happy Holidays!
bnc _________________ I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door. |
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