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manxter wiring
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jrailer
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:49 pm    Post subject: manxter wiring Reply with quote

How are you guys wiring your buggies? Hiding wires I like how Scott did his manxter with the tubes glassed in. Or running inside side bars? Any ideas
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suggest running wires down side in a tube ... That is what I did,,,

Also so for actual wiring suggest wire loom from Rebel Wiring... Although I did mine years ago with "individual wires" I believe Rebel kit has good reputation and quality product...

http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Wire%20Kits

Dale
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wiring is the main reason the glass tubes are there.
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jrailer
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new bodies do not have tubes to run the wires in
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
Wiring is the main reason the glass tubes are there.


In older bodies it was cardboard and was a "stiffener" for body lip...

Dale
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jrailer wrote:
The new bodies do not have tubes to run the wires in


Go to Big Box store and get some 1 inch "flex conduit" (electrical section - usually blue and corrugated) and glass it in under body lip.... Did this on one "no name body" build, works great....

Dale
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the Manxter I just run it inside some DR25 Heat Shrink and then cable tie it to the Side Bar.

If you do want to use conduit then get the smooth sides flex with the smooth inside and the bulk head fittings. You can then simply use a bulk head 90 deg at the front into the tub and the same at the rear but round the back. Using the smooth side means you can run wires easier and it doesn't get caught on the conduit or create rub points.

The stuff I am talking about is usually grey in colour.
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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another great option for tubing is sump pump tubing from your local HD or Lowes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wayne-1-1-2-in-x-20-ft-Sump-Pump-Discharge-Hose-Kit-66000-WYN1/100119536

20 feet is more than enough for both sides of the buggy. Its 1 1/2" which is a good size. Its cheap at around $10.

I glassed mine in and to run wires I took a roll of twine and stuffed some into the tube. I then used my little shop vac to blow air through the tube. The twine will come flying out the back. Pull about 10 feet through and make a loop. Now you can pull wires through back and forth easily.

When done I left the twine in there and sealed the ends up with silicone. If I ever needed to run additional wires the twine would be there.
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a picture of Jon's Manxter, he used DilliBlock
. Very nice job'

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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0BudgetProductions
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just took off my tubes (cardboard and two layers of fiberglass) and replaced them with PVC and 3 layers of fiberglass. Was informed by a senior member of the Fraternity of Fiberglass that these were used as support so I made sure I balanced strength and weight. The wiring was 50 years old...horrible!
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bim55
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iguana, there's nothing wrong with that wiring job, nice.
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 8:35 pm    Post subject: Manxter Wiring Reply with quote

I'm going to use the 1" flex conduit, run it on top of the side bars and strap it down. A heavy velcro strap should be a good option. If you glass it in there might be problems if you ever wanted to install the side curtains . I got the wiring kit from Watson's Street Works as advertised in Hot Vw's. Still in the box...
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bim55 wrote:
Iguana, there's nothing wrong with that wiring job, nice.


Not saying their is, as I said with the picture it is a very nice job, the entire buggy is a very high quality build. By using the DilliBlocks and a hand made loom he was able to get a very good result.
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:35 pm    Post subject: Manxter wiring Reply with quote

So when I put together the wireless connectors, do you use both the heat shrink tubing along with the silicone dielectric grease, or just the heat shrink tubing. Been reading conflicting reports.
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dbsmith
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:15 am    Post subject: Re: Manxter wiring Reply with quote

dbsmith wrote:
So when I put together the wireless connectors, do you use both the heat shrink tubing along with the silicone dielectric grease, or just the heat shrink tubing. Been reading conflicting reports.


I prefer with silicone dielectric grease.... BUT .... Dielectric grease is a non-conductor and can insulate a connection also.... That said, dielectric grease does also seal a connection and keep out moisture and oxygen, the causes of corrosion, IF you have GOOD MECHANICAL CONNECTION under the grease its non-conduction factor is a non-issue... ITS all about the MECHANICAL CONNECTION, whether crimp is tight and proper, or screw connection is clean and tight etc:... IF wiring is not going to see any harsh weather grease may not be needed.... My buggies (both) are wired using the grease and I have never had a wiring issue with connections/connectors in 12 years since I rebuilt my red one, and the race buggy that came and went inside the 12 years parameter of red car...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dale
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you opt to use a screw-down connection on the ends of stripped wire, I'd recommend that you solder tin the bare ends first. This allows you to terminate the wire end without smooshing* out the wires. Another option I've used are Wire Ferrules on the ends of stripped wire when used in terminal blocks.

http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/WIRE_FERRULES.htm

* 'Smooshing' - a good general-purpose Engineering term.

bnc
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know people recommend certain brands of wiring kits and some swear by the Rebel kits. I have used Rebel and Watson's and like them both. I have also used the $45 "buggy bag of wires kit" and didn't like that at all. The reason the Rebel is cheaper is that you get no ground wires or connectors. The wiring diagram is better for the Rebel if you use VW switches, otherwise, I think the quality is about the same. Tom
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
If you opt to use a screw-down connection on the ends of stripped wire, I'd recommend that you solder tin the bare ends first. This allows you to terminate the wire end without smooshing* out the wires. Another option I've used are Wire Ferrules on the ends of stripped wire when used in terminal blocks.

http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/WIRE_FERRULES.htm

* 'Smooshing' - a good general-purpose Engineering term.

bnc


I do not recommend tinning the wires together if you are using screw terminals. Lead has a problem with cold creep, it moves slowly under pressure at room temperature. This tends to cause pressure connections to loosen over time.
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have crimped, soldered and heat shrink-ed every engine and lighting connection on my buggy and have not had a wiring related issue with it in ten plus years and almost 45,000 miles.
YMMV
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
didget69 wrote:
If you opt to use a screw-down connection on the ends of stripped wire, I'd recommend that you solder tin the bare ends first. This allows you to terminate the wire end without smooshing* out the wires. Another option I've used are Wire Ferrules on the ends of stripped wire when used in terminal blocks.

http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/WIRE_FERRULES.htm

* 'Smooshing' - a good general-purpose Engineering term.

bnc


I do not recommend tinning the wires together if you are using screw terminals. Lead has a problem with cold creep, it moves slowly under pressure at room temperature. This tends to cause pressure connections to loosen over time.


I'll be certain to note your point and discuss it with my engineering team at Phoenix Contact that designs & manufactures the terminal blocks & specs out the design & usage criteria.

Happy Holidays!

bnc
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