Removing aftermarket paint to get OG paint

eyetzr · Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:49 pm Post subject:

X2 leave the paint, looks nice. Stipping off paint is a pain & if it was done properly you will end up at factory prime (if stronger stripper, bare) & then have to respray & hope you get a nice job. Stripper will also remove putty & bondy filler if it is left on long enough
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done"

slaphappytrav · Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:04 am Post subject:

Dennis_ · Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:05 am Post subject:

Guys, what are your thoughts on this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It's probably red lead paint, most common way to get it off is burning it, not exactly an option.. anyone with experience with this stuff?
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IN2VWS · Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 3:23 am Post subject:

I mentioned it previously in this topic, a hot water high pressure cleaner works pretty good.

My recent bus acquisition, had the roof respary still on it. The previous owner had already removed most of the paint on the other panels with oven cleaner.

Here is a short video showing the paint being stripped with my Karcher set at 150ºC (hottest it will go.)

http://vimeo.com/113190584
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anthnmnt · Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 2:33 pm Post subject:

What's the color of primer? I started with the Graffiti remover to get off the primer. I then see a brown and black and the original Turkis. Not sure if the brown/black is primer or another paint job.

epbooker · Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:40 am Post subject:

Looking for some advice on my 63 Ragtop project.
I figure for now I will keep it as itd sits until I have it completely mechanically sound and a happy daily driver, just curious for the future, what you all might think on uncovering the OG paint.
All panels on the car are original, each panel has at least a few parts where the respray (A ok/decent home paint job, done in the 80's) shows through to the original Beryl green paint.

From what I can tell, the grey primer shows through a moderate amount. Im guessing the car was sanded to prepare for respray.

Looking for thoughts and advice.

Idkutet · Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 4:08 am Post subject: Single cab loosing its spots

Graffiti remover , 0000 steal wool & couple hours of elbow grease
Coming off a whole lot easier than I thought

ExtremeBean · Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 7:41 pm Post subject:

I've read this whole thread and it's pretty awesome "unearthing" what's underneath all these crappy resprays to bring back the OG paint. I'm somewhat of a purist so it's really cool actually.

I bought my car in primer and I know the original color is Fjord Blue ('59 bug). All the fenders, hood, and deck lid are the same color underneath (don't know if they're original matching or not) The car was resprayed a pastel yellow at some point, I'm guessing sometime in the 80's. It's looks flat and not very thick at all. Then the primer as it sits now. Should be a fairly easy job compared to some of what I've seen on here.

So my questions are this. I think the car has been hit at some point, I'm guessing the rear quarter panel. There also seems to be some Bondo on the rear apron. Another thing, ugh, and it pains me to say this, but the PO started to deseam/shave the drip rails. He only did half of one side, so that's the good news. I got such a deal on it that I decided I could live with it/fix it.

Anyways, what do you guys do about replaced panels/other shoddy body work? The only answer I've come across is to buy factory matching paint and feather it in. That may work in small spots, but what about a whole quarter panel? Shaved drip rail where there's obviously welds and some metal smoothing done? I figured worse case scenario, I get to learn every square inch of my little beloved German piece of history and it would be good prep for a "real" paintjob. So at what point does rolling the OG paint become not all its cracked up to be? Is it worth going down to bare metal at that point? At what point is it not worth the time, effort, and money and should just send the shell to get soda blasted? I'd love and appreciate some real answers as I believe this issue has yet to be addressed in this thread.

Thanks for reading my long winded post

Idkutet · Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 9:44 pm Post subject:

Extremebean color matching is tough I'm going to bring in the gas filler door to the paint store for vehicle color match hoping that I can cover up a few of the bare metal spot on my single. The original color may stick out like a sore thumb, hoping the aged paint match will work.

I'd start with the worst area on your car, if it comes out to your liking then the rest should be smooth sailing.

You've got some challenges ahead , try the graffiti / oven cleaner method.... If it doesn't work out . Go all the way with blasting / aggressive sanding. Good luck ... Look forward to seeing some pictures !!

strfish7 · Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:55 pm Post subject: I think this paint can be saved

Hello,

I've been reading this thread and was inspired to find out what's underneath what looks like a cheap rattle can paint job. I decided to do a test spot to see how hard it would be to remove the shitty paint, how long it would take, and whether the paint underneath looks any good. I used 600 grit wetsanding, followed by 1500 grit, and some rubbing compound, followed by sealant. I think there's definitely potential here! What do you guys think?

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willieb · Posted: Wed May 06, 2015 6:28 pm Post subject: after stripping the paint

What should I do after the crap paint is off? The og paint is a bit dull and was wondering weather to buff the paint or not.

EverettB · Posted: Wed May 06, 2015 10:30 pm Post subject:

Yes, buff it out.
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willieb · Posted: Thu May 07, 2015 1:05 pm Post subject: clear coat

Thx Everett I'll practice on this 61' bug first. One more question, should I clear coat after buffing?

strfish7 · Posted: Thu May 07, 2015 4:37 pm Post subject:

You probably want to respray the base coat, at least to cover the blemishes, and then clear coat. Don't forget the tedious but rewarding color sanding the clear coat after...
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willieb · Posted: Thu May 07, 2015 6:38 pm Post subject:

Thx Strfish7, I want to keep it original so the blemishes will have to stay, I guess it will be a rat look project. I might try that with my 67' bus when the time comes. willie

FritzCP · Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 1:30 pm Post subject:

dont clear it, just use a good solid wax and apply by hand after your done buffing.
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willieb · Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 2:22 pm Post subject:

Thanx volksheime, that's what I wanted to hear. But there are a few bare spots with no paint what do about them? Thx willie

FritzCP · Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 2:30 pm Post subject:

If they bare metal spots are pretty small, id just leave them bare and use the wax. if large areas, I use Dupont Nason etching primer (grey) to cover up and match it. you can buy matched ruby red paint in rattle cans from tower paint that match well and are good value. but everything i see on your ruby red car above, I would roll it as is. Wet sand with 1500, then 2000. and 3m compound by hand. or run 3m compound with a wool pad on the elec buffer and go to town. Its nice enough to look cool as is, but not too nice that you will screw it up or make it worse while learning and getting your system down.
try a fender out and post up the pics Smile

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Removing aftermarket paint to get OG paint
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