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The Baja Bug - First Timer's Thread
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Electrical. Why did it have to be electrical?

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I got out of class around 6:30 this evening and earlier in the day I had thought "Do I even have headlights, running lights, etc?" I knew I had headlights, but only the high beams work when I pull the knob out two clicks. There's nothing illuminated inside, and there are no running lights in the rear. The indicators work all around, but they flash fast like there is no relay and inside both arrows on the speedo light up no matter if I click right or left. The hazards flash all signals fast too, both arrows light up like they should and the knob also illuminates. I'm running my brake lights off of just the first brake switch, but there is another 2 prong set that may go to brakes. Stereo stopped working. No backup light.

Electrical to-do-list:
Headlights - low/high
Two rear running lights
Speedometer light
Flasher relay
Check brake wiring
Check stereo

I've never done any sort of wiring before but I am studying electrical circuits right now so what a time. I'm guessing I can wire in the headlights, rear running lights, and speedo light in tandem so they illuminate at once, and I want it to be independent of the ignition like the hazards are. Then I want to fix the signals. The fast flash doesn't bother me but I want to see the left or right arrow independently.

I want to say it has a VW fuse box but I have reason to believe most of it is not stock anymore, so I'm not really sure where or how to start. Luckily I just got an electrical connector kit, crimp tool, test light, and cheapo multimeter. If I need wire and fuses, I'm not sure what to get. Would switching to LEDs be a good idea?

Other to-do-stuff:
Stop plate adjustment (doesn't like upshifting into 2nd)
Gear oil
Front shocks
Handbrake
Rear brake adjuster tabs
Fuel hose
Oil hoses
Refit the fiberglass front end with a tilt and watertight dash panel


Didn't think you were old enough to know about Indiana Jones.

Wiring diagrams page (top of any page in the Samba Blue bar, right end, "Technical" -- Wiring/Type 1/1972"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

The turn indicator does not show which direction, just one bulb to blink for either one. You get to show your intelligence by figuring out which is on all by yourself. Laughing

Power goes to the headlight switch, then to the ignition switch from there. So headlights and running lights are not ignition switch controlled.

LEDs in the dash lights can be done, but for some functions, like the alternator light and turn indicators, a resistor needs to be added to make up for the lack of resistance which the circuit relies on to function properly. Research it in these forums. Dale is good at that stuff. Someone did a how-to on installing LEDs a few years ago using small wire nuts like used in house wiring to make sockets for the LEDs to fit where the incandescent lamps fit.

1st stop on the headlight switch should turn on the tail lights and front parking lamps. 2nd stop should add the headlights. Dimmer switch should be in the turn indicator lever. There is a blue indicator light in the upper part of the speedo to show high beams are on. The indicator lights and dash lights in the speedo all ground through the speedo housing.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay somehow it has running lights... front left doesn't work but that's an easy fix. Battery was dead dead and I had left the lights knob one click out, so when I started charging the battery the brake lights and front light was illuminated. How did I miss that before? I opened the choke to where it was slightly open too, starts right up now.

EDIT: No so here's the deal. One pull out = running lights, but the ones in back just stay lit, stepping on the brakes does nothing to change it. Two pulls out and all the running lights go out and headlights go on. Still messed up. I think I'm going to add two more lights mounted on the end of the cage and make those brake activated lights while the ones mounted farther back in illuminate the whole rear cage and motor nicely as running lights making it easier to see.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bug got rained on hard the last week. The front end isn't mounted that well but it didn't do too bad a small amount of water collected under the pedals by the stop plate. I couldn't find where it was coming in from but I know if I were driving in the rain it would get slung up under the hood and all over the electronics and probably into my lap. Carb and exhaust are rusting pretty good. I have not driven it for a while so the oil has leaked all out of it by now. It needs to have the push rod tubes and seals replaced at the least but its leaking in multiple places.
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Bug got rained on hard the last week. The front end isn't mounted that well but it didn't do too bad a small amount of water collected under the pedals by the stop plate. I couldn't find where it was coming in from but I know if I were driving in the rain it would get slung up under the hood and all over the electronics and probably into my lap. Carb and exhaust are rusting pretty good. I have not driven it for a while so the oil has leaked all out of it by now. It needs to have the push rod tubes and seals replaced at the least but its leaking in multiple places.


Have you started it lately? Run it a little bit every month or your gonna gum up your carb. S.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtkeeper wrote:
EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Bug got rained on hard the last week. The front end isn't mounted that well but it didn't do too bad a small amount of water collected under the pedals by the stop plate. I couldn't find where it was coming in from but I know if I were driving in the rain it would get slung up under the hood and all over the electronics and probably into my lap. Carb and exhaust are rusting pretty good. I have not driven it for a while so the oil has leaked all out of it by now. It needs to have the push rod tubes and seals replaced at the least but its leaking in multiple places.


Have you started it lately? Run it a little bit every month or your gonna gum up your carb. S.


And put some gas preserver in the gas tank like Stabil. The current gasoline with alcohol gums up VERY quickly.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know what this is? I think it's related to the emergency flashers. That's also a burned wire that runs to the rear of the car.

*Dual circuit brake warning light


Last edited by EnjoyNukaCola on Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:40 pm; edited 2 times in total
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone tell me what that electrical piece is? Maybe a flasher relay that's causing all my grief?

I finished installing new pushrod tubes today, cleaning everything the best I could where possible and replacing gaskets. Passenger side was much easier than the other for some reason. For the drivers side I put to use the zip tie method, which worked wonders.
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You can add this one to "how to not paint your engine". Old, yellow, chipping paint everywhere, sucks.
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Got everything buttoned up, added fresh oil, ran a second check, started and within a minute my oil filter flowed over onto the exhaust pipes and made a mess. Brick wall
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to bypass the brake warning light. When I installed the MC I reattached the two prong wiring to the farthest brake switch. I recently saw another tied up pair of two prong wires so I attached them to the closest brake switch. It fried the blue wire that runs to the VR, hazards, and charging light. (Blue wire tied in with K7, K2, and C1 on the wiring diagram). A fuse was also blown recently. It seems when I connected the second set of wires to the MC, it completed the circuit whenever I had the brakes pressed and the wiring was incorrect so it fried from the warning light to the VR while the generator light wire was intact. At the moment I've disconnected the fried wire leaving me without a generator light and subsequently opening the flasher relay to the hazards. So I want to bypass the warning light altogether, restore the gen light and hazards. After that I still have to diagnose the fast flashing lights, although the relay is fine so I think the problem lies with ungrounded wires to the rear signals. (PO Applause)

In other news, a couple of the push rod tubes sprung a leak on the drivers side at the head, passenger side valve cover is leaking, numerous spots still dripping around the case seam and nuts, and broke a stud off the drain plate, sigh. Going through cardboard like a mofo because every day is a rainy day under there.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like your wiring is FUBAR. (F'ed Up Beyond All Repair)

Without the generator warning light, the system will not generate power.

There is a good chance the pushrod tube seals are leaking because of the chipped yellow paint. Just one of the many reasons why it's not good to paint a VW engine. Along with it not cooling well.
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Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not exactly, it's 90% intact. The system charges fine, the light simply went out with me disconnecting the wire. I want to fix that sans the brake warning light, how can I do that when I don't have three prong wiring etc.

The leak is on the head side, no paint there. The seals arnt perfect because of the angle.


Last edited by EnjoyNukaCola on Wed Feb 04, 2015 1:30 am; edited 1 time in total
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That wire, regardless of whether the light is lit or not, provides the signal to the regulator to charge. If that wire is disconnected, it will not charge. If that light is replaced with an LED, it will not charge. It needs the resistance of the original setup. If the bulb burns out, it will not charge. If the bulb is out of place, it will not charge.
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue goes, orange stays. Would work?

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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ran another wire back to the VR, so the generator and light is functioning properly.

Unfortunately, I broke a nut off the drain plate the other day, and although it was a previously stripped nut I'm not sure if I can find a replacement. Its basically an acorn nut but with threads coming out like a bolt.

My new push rod tubes also started leaking on the passenger case side now pretty bad. It's not really the tubes fault or my fault from what I can tell so I'd say dustymojave is right about the chipping paint (PO). At this point, what's the best type of RTV to use LOL. Brick wall
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My first weld today...
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And I saw this last week outside of Big Johns Performance on Creekside Rd.
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Larger: http://imgur.com/EnC4eJv
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going to put some sealant on the pushrod tubes, get some Three Bond 1184 or 1194. It's a semi drying liquid gasket type sealant for high temp and resistant to oil and gas. I found it online at amazon, but they have it or its equivalent at motorcycle shops too.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spring 2015 semester started today.
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I should have done this a long time ago but I just got around to flushing the trans today. This is just criminal.
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After adjusting my pedals and clutch, I got back in and went around the block. I pulled the headlights and heard two fuses go, now I've lost my left turn signal and the whole turn signal assembly feels broken now. DAMN these push rod tubes, I bought the Jaycee one's but one has started leaking at the o-ring. There was also a "gush" of extremely dark oil on top of a push rod that came from the cylinder mating surface. I was going up a hill and revved it up really high on accident and saw a waft of smoke in my mirror so that may have been it. IMO the whole car needs to be re-wired and I should start putting together a new motor.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
Spring 2015 semester started today.
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College of The Canyons...Been there a time or 12.

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
I should have done this a long time ago but I just got around to flushing the trans today. This is just criminal.
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Looks pretty nasty. What oil did you put in? 90wt? A lot of newer manual gear boxes use ATF or similar thin oils. And lots of young folks think a Bug should too because that's what they're familiar with. But an old school gearbox like a Bug needs 90wt. Nice and thick and gooey. Fill it with ATF and it will fry faster than you can shut the engine off.

EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
After adjusting my pedals and clutch, I got back in and went around the block. I pulled the headlights and heard two fuses go, now I've lost my left turn signal and the whole turn signal assembly feels broken now.


Your wiring definitely needs some serious attention from someone who knows what they're doing in there. It's relatively simple wiring


EnjoyNukaCola wrote:
DAMN these push rod tubes, I bought the Jaycee one's but one has started leaking at the o-ring. There was also a "gush" of extremely dark oil on top of a push rod that came from the cylinder mating surface. I was going up a hill and revved it up really high on accident and saw a waft of smoke in my mirror so that may have been it. IMO the whole car needs to be re-wired and I should start putting together a new motor.

Hope you didn't damage anything else when you overrevved it. It MAY have pulled a cylinder stud which would allow cylinder/head blowby/leakage.
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Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Masterpro GL-5 80W-90. I'm going to do some research on here and order some wiring stuff by this weekend.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm considering going with a Rebel kit, either the Bug std or deluxe. I figure after the cost of everything it would be close to the same if I bought all of it separate, and it wouldn't look or be as nice. I want all the basic stuff with room for expansion (auxiliary lights, stereo with a sub). I like the idea of using individual toggle switches over the push pull switches for the fuel pump, running lights, head lights, hazards, and wipers. Might fix the dome light and plan for a tach, oil pressure, oil temp and cyl head temp gauges. Might move the stereo up under the dash, setup a switchbox where the stereo went and put the gauges on the far side at an angle. I saw Pelican makes a waterproof case that I think I want to put the fusebox in and mount under the hood like this:
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Side question, why does that one have so many relays and what would they be for?

If I were to switch to an alternator in the future would it only require me to rewire the VR/battery area?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CB Performance has a sale... want disc brake kit... with their 10% its under 300 for their ball joint kit (4 lug). I love those centerlines but they run pricey and the disc brake kit for those are nearly twice as much. The wide 5's seem mostly aesthetic and "exclusive" hence the prices. I'd go thing rear drums to match though I should plan for all this in the future, CB has lots of sales... must do wiring fiiiirst! Brick wall Should I go deluxe harness or standard? The deluxe has two accessory circuits left open, so I could add extra lights to that correct? Is it worth the extra 20 dollars?

EDIT: Oh and this is important. The wiring diagram it comes with, is it in color or is it labeled directly. The orange bentley vw manual I have is labled like BK/Y for black and yellow instead of just color. I'm a little color blind and the text labeling would help me a lot.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe I have the rebel kit in my jeep and the wires are labeled every foot or so ad to what they are form plus they are color coded. As for all the relays the guy could be overly causious. Headlights, highbeams, starter relay, ignition relay, front spot lights, rear spot lights, fuel pump, side spotlights maybe, oil cooler fan. Anything that draws high amps.
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