Project Slowly Underway: Berrien 295

winchin73blazinbaja · Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 4:42 pm Post subject:

nice find where are you putting all of this stuff? you keep finding it all while you are at school i picture your place being loaded out the doors with VW parts. haha

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:02 pm Post subject:

Hahahah, you should have seen the car ride on the way up. Lol. I am lucky enough to have a useable basement this year. It took a lot of love and extra lights, but I have been putting together a makeshift shop down there. Last year I had a small garage that had zero insulation and was no fun to work in. I got frostbite on my left knee pretty bad when welding out there mid March. It turned purple and pealed off a couple weeks later. Yuck! The basement is still far from ideal, but I have been making it work.

The bigger question is...how am I going to move it all come May??? Shocked

We don't worry about the little things. Laughing

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

winchin73blazinbaja · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:56 am Post subject:

Yea I'm not a fan of working on cars in cold weather. I hate wearing gloves so I end up taking them off and then 5-10 minutes later your hands are too cold to move anyways

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 1:24 pm Post subject:

Yeah, that's a bit of a pain.

This is the weld on flange for the Supertrapp spark arrestor. The entry was to large for my stinger baffle, so I had to get creative to make it fit. After cutting it off the pipe it was already attached to, I cut a bunch of vertical slits in the perimeter. Then I took a pliers and bent them all over until it fit right. Now I have to tack it on and go back and weld up the slits I cut in the metal.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

winchin73blazinbaja · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:23 pm Post subject:

looking good

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:21 pm Post subject:

Thanks man. Just picking away at odds and ends as I have time. I can't wait to get back to the engine. There are a few things I need yet before I can really start making headway again. New vacuum hoses, rebutted throttle shafts, spark plugs, some miscellaneous hardware/brackets, and new bearings. Once I get that I should be able to put her together again. Until then, I'll just keep tinkering with the little things that all have to get done.
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

winchin73blazinbaja · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:48 pm Post subject:

Yea I keep having to use small parts off of my air cooled engine (fuel hose hose clamps,etc)

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 11:01 am Post subject:

I started straightening out what I needed for the cooling system. The blower shroud I have is from either a 411/412 or a 914, and has the timing hole in the top of the shroud. I have three blower with different timing marks. The top one is likely off a 1.7 914 Djet or early carbureted 411, but those one year only 411s are rare. Unfortunately it has a cracked blade. The middle one is probably off a 1.8 Ljet, but has two cracked blades. The bottom fan has no timing notches around the perimeter which makes it a bus fan with a notch in the pulley.

I considered transferring the timing notches from one of the other blowers to the bus blower to use with the timing hole in the top of the blower shroud, but with so many variations in the timing marks I decided it was better to just get a bus timing scale. I found one on a junkyard bus along with a blower intake guard. I also took the thermostat cable pulley while I was at it.

I also finally got all the pieces of cooling tin that I need for the engine. Took long enough to find them...going to take a long time to clean up too.

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

sailtexas186548 · Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 11:23 am Post subject:

Get the tin glass or soda blasted, you'll be glad you did
_________________
it's more fun loud and dirty

Bashr52 · Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:25 pm Post subject:

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 1:13 pm Post subject:

They are not quite a drop in replacement. The covers need to be clearanced to clear the engine mounts, and the depth of the drive dog has to be set to fully engage with the camshaft. They are minor modifications, but modifications none the less. The stock T4 gears are 24mm which is still a pretty good size. I know a lot of people get the 26mm T1 pumps pre modified to drop in to replace the T4 pumps because they are cheaper and more plentiful, but this one was in pretty good shape and all I had to do was change the o-ring. 26mm pumps are a big improvement over the sock T1 21mm pumps for performance engines, but they are only a marginal improvement of the stock 24mm T4 pumps, and the 30mm T1 pumps are overkill for bone stock T4 engines.

Take that with a grain of salt, it's just my opinion. Others would beg to differ. Wink

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Bashr52 · Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 7:24 am Post subject:

Interesting. When I did my type 4 "camper special" build, the type 4 pump was shot and I dropped in a type 1 with no issue. I didnt have to clearance anything, and the pump drive was able to engage fully as-is. Perhaps it varies from pump-to-pump.

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:15 pm Post subject:

Perhaps. Where did you get your pump from? A lot of places sell them already modified to drop in with zero issues. Aircooled.net, etc etc...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=462927
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:42 pm Post subject:

To remove the one M14 triple square oil pressure control valve retaining bolt, a 3/8in drive socket extension is a perfect snug fit! No joke!

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 2:40 pm Post subject:

Two of the primary runners of the collector were bashed in. Unfortunately the crushed in parts were too close to the other primary tubing to be able to cut and splice in a new section of tubing since it would be impossible to weld all the way around the perimeter. I gave it to a buddy to try to pop out the crushed sections. Plan right now is to tack a bolt to it, heat it cherry red with a torch, and pull it up with a slide hammer. It will turn out wrinkly, and that's fine. I could care less how it looks so long as it opens up those primaries.
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:40 am Post subject:

Got the electrolysis tank up and running. Laughing

Video tells you pretty much everything you need to know about stripping rust from ferrous parts.

Link

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

flashho · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:47 am Post subject:

You are a great teacher and this is an Excellent video.
Vote for a sticky.
_________________
rant _ classified ads with out pics are almost worthless

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:47 pm Post subject:

Thanks man, glad it was worth filming an instructional.

For the record, I have $4 into this set up, and it will do a heck of a lot more than the pile of parts you saw in the movie. For 20 gallons of water, I only put a palm sized slash of sodium carbonate in.

Tub: found it in the basement (0$)
Power supplies: leftovers from previously loved appliances (0$)
Angle-iron for Anodes: ex-appartment mates bed frame he left behind when he moved out...what he doesn't know can't hurt him (0$)
Steel wire for hanging pictures: found an unopened roll (0$)
steel rods for hanging parts from: I think they had something to do with the bed frame, again (0$)
Washing Soda: What? College guys living together in a rental house wash cloths??? Laughing

Just kidding, we do laundry...from time to time.

Heed what I said about Chromium. Don't put anything into the solution with chrome in it. Stainless Steels or Chromed parts are a NO GO. It creates nasty nasty stuff you do not want in your house, and the EPA would prefer did not exist.

Some pictures I snapped of the operation while I was at it...

For these last pictures, I hacked a 5/12 volt laptop computer power supply. Took a little bit to figure out what wires were what. Turns out there is a 3 volt and 5 volt output. The 5 volt is for standby power, and the three volt line turns on the main 10 amp 12 volt power supply when connected to ground. 10 amps lets you do a lot of larger surface area sheet metal parts.

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:33 pm Post subject:

Phase II of the exhaust completed...

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:09 pm Post subject:

Hopefully I will have some more updates soon for you guys. There have been a lot of stuff slowing me down lately. Senior project with Pettibone Traverse Lift has been taking priority lately and consume a lot of time. Once things settle down a bit I will get back to working on the VW stuff again.

I got a few things I can do in my spare time that won't involve to much time or effort. I'll FINALY ship out my cam/lifters to European Motorworks for a regrind exchange. I'll also stop at the junk yard to pop off a valve spring to replace the bad one I had (low spring pressure). While I am out I will pick up a pair of 137.5 main jets and 155 air correction jets from the snowmobile repair shop in town down the road. They sell for a couple bucks a piece, which is way less than I can get them from any VW supply shop. Solex licensed several of their designs to Mikuni way back when. Mikuni carbs are popular on Asian sleds like Yamaha, but also are found on many North American sleds such as Polaris and Bombardier products. To this day Mikuni keeps using the same jet design in many of their modern carburetors, and jets can be had in just about any size you could imagine.

Once I verify I have the correct throttle bodies for my carbs, I will take them down to our schools machine shop and bore out the bodies on a lathe for larger throttle shaft bushings while no one is watching. Haha. I ordered some new bearings I think will be much better than the stupid bronze bushings that original came on most Solex carbs. Bronze is a poor material of choice for carb bushings for a couple reasons. First is the lack of good lubrication. A shaft pivoting in a bronze bushing, especially at such a low surface speed, does little to draw the impregnated oil out of the pores in the bushings. As a result, the bushings run dry and grind down. To make maters worse, fuel vapors break down the lubrication. The second reason bronze is a poor choice becomes evident over long periods of time. It is called galvanic corrosion. In the case of the throttle shaft and bushings, the steel shaft is more anodic than the bronze, which is more cathodic. As a result of the difference in galvanic series, the steel shaft (anode) will corrode and dissolve in any conductive moisture in contact with both the steel and bronze, such as lubricant/fuel residue. Surprisingly, the hard steel shafts wear just as much as the soft bronze due to galvanic corrosion. I got undersized bearings to compensate for the shaft wear. I'll just have to polish them down to size.

The iglide T500 bearings I chose are engineered plastic resins blended with reinforcing fibers and solid lubricants. The fibers keep the plastic from cold flowing/deforming which causes air leaks. The solid lubricants blended into the mixture keep the friction low even during pivoting motion since they do not need to be wick out of pores in the material, like oil impregnated in more traditional sintered powdered metal bronze bushings. Since they are dry lubricants they will not attract dust and won't be washed away by the presence of fuel vapors. iglide T500 bearings are pretty tough and have a PV (thats pressure*velocity, PSI*Ft/Min in US units) rating similar to most bronze bearings. So why will glide T500 last longer than a bronze bushing if it has a similar PV rating? First, the PV rating assumes ideal lubrication. Oil impregnated bronze bearings don't build an adequate lubrication film under slow pivoting motions. Seconds, the oil attracts grit. Third, galvanic corrosion attacks the steel with bronze bushings. In addition, the iglide T500 bearings I will be using have much more surface area, so the pressure, P, on the bearings will be much lower. Stock bronze bushings are about 2mm wide. The iglide T500 bearings I will be installing are 1/2in wide each.

They should easily last a couple motor rebuild. I designed for the absolute worst case scenario (totally unrealistic to daily driving) which is pivoting motion at 30 cycles per minute at 40 degrees (80 degrees total from closed to full throttle) with a two pound edge load on a 5/16in (undersized from 8mm) steel shaft, 3/8in diameter bearing in an aluminum housing, 2 x 1/2in wide bearings, 0-150degF with 200degF max ambient temp, and a presence of dust with a 100% duty cycle, and a wear limit of 0.004 inches, they should last 175k-200k hours. That is a LOT of time. Again, this is absolute worst case scenario. Nobody EVER drives by fully depressing and releasing the throttle once every two seconds all day every day. Realistically the bearings will last much much longer than 200k hours in normal driving, even off road.

Sounds expensive? Surprise, it's not. Plastic bearings are the new hot thing since they can be mass produced inexpensively by injection molding and can be designed to have mechanical qualities that out preform their old school bronze predecessors. This pack of iglide T500 bearings I got were only a couple bucks more expensive than your average joe blow oil impregnated powdered metal sintered bronze bushings you can get at a hardware store.

New igus iglide T500 bearings:

This shows you how small and wimpy the original Solex throttle shaft bushings were. The replacement bearings I am using are much much larger, and should work fantastic for a very long time.

_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Project Slowly Underway: Berrien 295
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3 ... 13, 14, 15 ... 37, 38, 39 Next Jump to:

	Forum Index -> HBB Off-Road	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3 ... 13, 14, 15 ... 37, 38, 39 Next Jump to:
Page 14 of 39