stumped again! ej22 quit ruining

Racerrojo · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:07 pm Post subject: stumped again! ej22 quit ruining

So I've got this '85 westy with and older '95 ej22, it drove from Arizona to New Mexico, just fine, except for the fact that was running to cold, the needle never went past the first line of the gage.
The first thing to do is to replace the thermostat with a subaru OEM part. Well now it would over heat.
So I redid the whole cooling system at the engine compartment , pulled th he KEP style copper pipes ( even think they where nicely made ) and replaced it with a reversed coolant manifold , and routed it like I've done with other conversios successfully.
When I put it all back together , it would not start, because I forgot to plug the camshaft pos. sensor .
Once I plugged it back in, the van started right up. But it only ran for about five minutes, then sounded like it was running out of fuel and died.
Now it won't start at all , cranks, sputtered, back fire (some times) but won't run.
Fuel pressure is 40#
Spark plugs are new and have spark.
Tried a different ing. switch
It feel like a timing issue , but timing belt is good just about two year old, both cam wheels marks line up.
I do hear a humming coming from the idle control valve, even when the key is off.
Could that be the culprit?
Any help or suggestions are welcome and appreciated as all ways.
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ScottShelley · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:27 pm Post subject:

Did you check the codes?

danfromsyr · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject:

overheat?

Does the motor have a Thermostat heater bypass loop to give the T-stat a temperature signal? in my experience this is imperative..
pull the plugs, check for coolant in the cylinder and compression..

overheat?
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Racerrojo · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:14 pm Post subject:

Pulled a code p0105. ( manifold absolute pressure )
And while it was over heating, I kept tabs on the temperature and never ran it for long. I Think my problem then was air in to system, but I'm not sure if I fixed that, until I get it running again.
I have and "H" bypass at the heater lines, and a line from the manifold to a "T" at the hose from heater to the Thermostat.
What ever it is is going on with it now, I don't think is cooling related. It did not run long enough to warm up before it died on me.
I also did the head gasket test when. Was having the over heating problems, and as far as I ca tell , is all good.
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

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Racerrojo · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:31 pm Post subject:

I made the mistake of turning the key on while the manifold was off the engine, not realizing that my battery was conected ( don't ask how)
That made the fuel pump turn on, I snapped to it and turn the key off and pulled from the ign right away, but the weird thing is that the fuel pump did not shut off and spill fuel all get the top of the engine and my drive way, I had to unplug the wire to the FP to make it stop.
I did had the intake holes covered so no fuel who'd have gotten in the block.
Now I'm wondering, if that some how made the ecu go all loopy on me. And now it can get the firing on the plugs or the injectors
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Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

kalispell365 · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:11 am Post subject:

If you have one, try a different MAF sensor (connects to the air box). They are a little fragile when not mounted up. If you have that code, I would start there.
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1983 Diesel Vanagon Westfalia chassis with Subaru 2.2l

ftp2leta · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:22 pm Post subject:

When an engine was running fine and you did some work and it's now NOT running fine/starting. You have moved/cut/remove something. It as nothing to do with the: To hot - To cold.

Unrelated to Subaru

Ben
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Racerrojo · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:05 pm Post subject:

All I did was subaru related cooling system. I did had to plug the EGR boulevard inlet as it interfered with the reversed coolant manifold.
That should not impede the engine from starting , as far as I could find out it would not affect the performance.
I'm trying to locate a new MAF for an AT ( 4 wire,connector ) I have two extras but they are (5 wire) for standart transmission
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

newfisher · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:21 pm Post subject:

Im no suby expert but can tell you that on a tracker/sidekick 8v envine when you pull the egr and block the passage, it will crank stumble not start and if it does finally catch and run, it doest run well or run long. Put the stuck egr back on and it would start and not run well. Install new egr and runs like a champ. Try installing the egr again and see what happens?

Racerrojo · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:17 pm Post subject:

The EGR interferes with the reversed coolant manifold, in order to make it work, I would have to cacti ate a metal line to clear the gap.
That said. I Disconnected and capped the vacuum lines, installed a new battery, and the van fired right up. To make sure that was the cause, I uncapped the vacuum line, and the engine died right away. But now even with the capped line it won't start again. Brick wall

I'm leaving the battery disconected and I'll try again morning. Fingers crossed
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

Racerrojo · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 3:20 pm Post subject:

I think I've got it!
I disconnected an capped the EGR vacuum lines, reconnected the battery , and fired right up.
Just go check, I uncapped the vacuum , and it quit running, capped an tried to start it to no avail. Only disconnecting the battery ( left it like that overnight) it started on the first try in the morning. I've not had the chance to leave it idling to make sure, but I think I'm getting closer
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

Racerrojo · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 3:22 pm Post subject:

NOT!!!!
Ran great for a few minutes, never even got hotter than 140* then started idling erratically and died
The battery trick is not working anymore.
I'm taking the intake out again and we if I have a bad wire or something.
I need a beer r four !
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

kalispell365 · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 10:24 am Post subject:

Check out the IAC valve plumbing/ wiring. It sounds as if the problem starts when the valve closes. This may be a vacuum leak on the intake.

Did you remove the intake when you just worked on the van?
_________________
1983 Diesel Vanagon Westfalia chassis with Subaru 2.2l

Racerrojo · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 12:42 pm Post subject:

Yes i removed the intake. When I instaled the reversed coolant manifold.
I also suspect the IAC, tho the pluming looks OK , I wonder if I'm pinching a wire when I re installed the manifold. Or if the gasket is broken. But if the gasket Wes the problem wild run rough from the get go.
It always seem to take about the Same time for the rough running to start , unless I rev it I and down, then it starts doing it sooner.
And every time I dies, t won't start until the battery has been disconnected for a while.
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

wcdennis · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 2:37 pm Post subject:

Check your coolant temp sensor--they are prone to failure. You might want to just swap it for a new one. They are not expensive.

Racerrojo · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:23 pm Post subject:

EUREKA!
She's running!
Not sure what did the trick.
I pulled the intake, to check for broken wires but found none.
I left the EGR "transducer"( brown thingy wit scoreobprong plug and vacuum lines attached to it) disconnected , installed the manifold back ( new gaskets )
The new sensor was bad , so I used the old one.( with the reversed manifold, the sensors sit next to the alternator and since I have no AC they are easy to service)
Any way is running , and I think my cooling system lay out is doing good.
I'll know more when I take it for a drive.
_________________
Tight is tight... too tight is expensive!!!!

Too many vans and mostly all projects Smile

newfisher · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:37 pm Post subject:

Glad to hear! Having a suby in mine, im always lookjng for solutions that people find when there are problems. Enjoy your drive.

kalispell365 · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:46 am Post subject:

Ill bet the intake had a leak at the gaskets. Years ago, I had a customer with a EJ25 that I did head gaskets on and somehow I missed a piece of debris and had a slight intake gasket leak...kind of odd how it ran!

Glad its going good now for you.
_________________
1983 Diesel Vanagon Westfalia chassis with Subaru 2.2l

SyncroGhia · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:54 am Post subject:

A friend of mine had his EJ25 die on him while he was half way over a high rocky pass while it was tipping down.

Nothing he could do would get it running. He ended up being towed off the route and recovered home where he spent the next 3 weeks going through everything from ECU, loom, sensors, fault codes etc etc.

In the end he didn't have one of the two main loom plugs (on the engine loom to car loom) clicked in properly!

MG
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kalispell365 · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 12:00 pm Post subject:


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