98K miles, engine out, how far do I go?

[gevans]

Ok, based on inspections so far, here is the updated shipping list:

AA cylinder heads
AA 88mm pistons & Cylinders
CB Performance "cheater cam"
CB Lifters
CB USA cam gear
CB bearings
CB 26mm oil pump

Am I going wrong with anything here?

[citroen]

Did you mike the crank and case to see if they are in specs and the case does not need to be line bored and the end play in the case is ok, also replace the flywheel seal and check the clutch

[gevans]

No, I did not split the case yet because I forgot to pick up the socket for the flywheel nut.

The clutch is near new. Sachs brand. 8.5 mm thick and still has machining marks on the flywheel. Got a flywhel seal on hand, and the o-ring.

After a lot more reading, I think I am going to go with the Mofoco 040 heads. Same price as AA but made in usa.

[citroen]

You don't need to remove the flywheel to split the case and maybe it is me but I will not use any parts from CB performance most of their parts are made in China I would stay with a Engle cam and lifters

[hobie16]

[gevans]

[gevans]

[Jzsquared]

I actually first purchased the Engle lifters for my car but switched to CB light weight ones. Be careful using Engle simply for the fact that the head is twice as think as the CB style. I would of had to cut the lifter bores if I stayed with the Engle to reach the minimum.040 gap need in between the cam lobe and lifter base.
I run the CB2280 and CB light weight lifters and the match is perfect

[Jzsquared]

[gevans]

Shoot, and I just picked up a set of brand new mofoco 040 heads for a good discount. Surely there is a way to open a passage through - I hope….

I am definitely running the thermostat as I already spent $100+ to get one of the OE style new ones.

[gevans]

The other reason I didn't go with the AA heads is that their chamber is big, so unless the heads are cut the compression ratio goes into the 6's on close to stock displacement engines.

[citroen]

I don't know what the cam specs or on the CB cams because I will not use their product but the Engle 100 cams lift is 420 with the stock VW rockers and 276 duration and they say it is for street , small displacement engines and I have used quite a few of the 100 camshafts without a problem and I don't use the small head light lifters for street use I would rather cut the case and use a heavier lifter . But use what you think best I am just giving you what I use which may be right or wrong for your use. I am only saying this from running a VW machine shop for over 40 years. I have not had to cut the case for a 100 cam but I always check I do cut them on larger cams.
You should be able to see on this picture were I have cut the lifters to clear a larger cam and line bored the case.

[Jzsquared]

[Jzsquared]

I want to share one item that I'm REALLY glad I purchased and that's a starter kit. Pretty much a cut off bell housing that you mount your starter to. This way you can hook up a battery and start it out of the car to check for leaks & stuff.
I'm having a real issue with one of my Jaycee push rods (why I went with these I'm still asking myself) but if I would have installed it in the car I would be more upset.
I can just wheel it to the back of the garage and start it up to see if the leak is fixed. I'm on try number three with these darn things but at least it's out of the car and easier to try. I'm going to give it one more try than off with heads and windage tubes I will go.

I found my starter kit in the classifieds here , best $100 I ever spent

[gevans]

Ok case split. Needs a line bore (measured 2.561 at the widest point of if #1 saddle). Not too beat up, but it's oval by 0.001 or 2.

Also #3 bearing seems like it was moving around:

Crank mic'd in spec, but right at the lower limit and kinda grooved up from dirt (there is a fine later of oily silt on the bottom of the case).

So now on the list:
Line Bore
Crank polish, or replace
Bearings
Pistons & cylinders
Heads
Cam & lifters
Oil pump

And of course the REAL question now that it is all apart and ready to go shopping:
What configuration do I build? Here are the ones I am looking at, and the part costs for pieces unique to those setups:


1679 69x88 thick wall
Cost: $60 crank polish + $150 P&C = $210
Pro: lowest cost
Con: Crank grooved, not much CC increase, 7.6:1 CR (could be OK?)

1776 69x90.5
Cost: $60 crank polish + $150 P&C + $60 case bore = $270
Pro: Common configuration
Con: Crank grooved

1800 74x88
Cost: $140 crank + 150 P&C = $290
Pro: New crank , torquier than 1776, no cutting of original case.
Con: May need pushrods/fitment issues due to added width?

1904 74x90.5
Cost: $140 crank + 150 P&C + $60 case bore = $350
Pro: Moar POWR!!!
Con: Beyond limit of 34pict3? 8.3:1 CR too high for 91 pump gas? May need pushrods/fitment issues due to added width? Getting costly.


The common parts among these are:
New heads (mofoco 040 'super street', mild port & polish, single HD springs, no step, 54cc chamber, bored for 90.5/92)
Tight deck (0.070" or less)
Mild cam (probably CB cheater or web 86)
Stock exhaust
34PICT3 on stock intake
DVDA distributor
Oil Filter!

I am leaning towards the 74x88 as it would be torquey, but (hopefully?) long lasting and still compatible with the 34PICT3. Also the romantic in me like the idea of keeping the original case configuration. I am the first one to take it apart since it left the factory 41 years ago and it seems a shame to cut bigger windows in the side. Dumb I know but…its how I feel.

[Jzsquared]

You may have heard this already but your stick exhaust will make all your upgrades seam like a waste of time. I have both stock and the Vintage speed exhausts and there is a big difference in power simply because it's not restricted. I'm also in the same boat of keeping it looking stock but I changed the exhaust when I upgraded mine to a 1835. The car may run hot as well because the exhaust will not flow as well

[citroen]

You do realize that to run the 88 thick wall cylinders you do have to cut the case they do not fit in a stock case. I do not know calif prices but that sounds like a lot just to polish a crank . I only charge 10.00 here in Louisville Ky.

[apba12m]

after you spend all this money making the engine new again protect it with the GB oil filter and added sump. I also did a full balance and it runns sooo nice..

[gevans]

That is useful advise about the exhaust. I do like the vintage speed stuff, it's probably well worth the extra $200. A restrictive exhaust actually forces things to run cooler as it gives a stronger EGR effect. The retained exhaust gasses cannot burn and cylinder temps decrease as a result. None of this is desirable form a power standpoint but it does not cause the engine to run hot.

Cali machine shop prices are all over the place. That is what I was quoted from the place down the street to clean, measure, inspect for cracks, and polish.

88 thick walls will fit in the standard case, at least the AA ones will. They are 85.5mm size at the base and 90.5/92 size at the top.

[Bashr52]

If you're going to do it, do it big! Once you taste a little bit more power, you will always be left wanting more.

2232 in mine: