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Question for a sound system guru
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toss a coin. Either would be fine.
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D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
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wellcraft
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

one last question as I forgot to ask, does it matter if I put it on top of the computer of the car? The comp of the car is under the seat and I would be placing the amp there, or could I be affecting the comp with the amp on top?
don't know if there is a signal or some shit that may affec, don't know, just asking.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunatly, I dont know the answer. Would definately take cooling into consideration though. Also keep in mind that a lot of folks mount things like amps in the front trunk. Just make sure no water can leak onto it.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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wellcraft
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey man, just wanted to thank u again for helping me with all this stuff. I decided to go with 5 channel ppi amp. What to do it the right way once as I always try to do. It should be here by Wednesday. Is more than I wanted to spend but at the end I belive I will have a nice sound system.
Btw, I got the 2 jbl's gto and they are indeed new. I hook it up to my z which it has an ame with sub and it sounds amazing. Probably I will be using 1 of the gto's for the z.

Thanks again for ur help but specially your patience.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No prob - glad I could help.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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wellcraft
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
No prob - glad I could help.


Hi man, I need some help. I was able to hook up everything and is working. For some reason the remote from the head unit stop working so the amp wasn't getting any signal. I called sonic electronix and they told me to connect the remote from the amp to the red positive of the hu And it's working even better. Before that, the amp was just shutting off constantly. Now is not doing that.

Is there any problem if I leave it like that?

When I tried to connect the equalizer to the remote from the hu, it didn't worked as is supposed to work.

Now, I need to build the sub enclosure and I can't understand the instructions. I did a search and it seems that the enclosure is supposed to be bigger than I was thinking. what would he the smallest I old build the enclosure so I can accommodatesomewhere in the car?

I already have the materials but have no idea how small I can build it. Do u have pics of the one you built for yours?

I read something about a port but have no idea what they are talking about.

This is what I read http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-co...to804.html
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If not using the remote power for your amp, that means its on all the time, whether the head unit is on or not. Not a problem if its a switched 12V source.

Sub enclosure. As I had mentioned, mine is under the rear seat, but I have one on the package shelf behind the rear seat in the woodie. The instructions in the JBL box give you different options depending on whether you want a ported or sealed box. A ported box lets the speaker move further and is tuned so you dont have any phase cancellation and some other stuff. A sealed box dampens speaker movement a little and is usually a little less efficient and may have a slightly weaker bass response. There is a lot more to this stuff and honestly you dont care. Its a box for a sub in a bug. no rocket science needed.

I seem to think the JBL sheet gives you a desired sealed enclosure volume. Bottom line for me was that I essentially built a 10" or so cube and installed the speaker. I like to put some fiberglass insulation inside. If you want to make it fit somewhere else, take into account the speaker dimensions and try to come up with a box that gets you close to the JBL spec dimenions. Thats all there is to it. Don't overthink it.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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wellcraft
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I just going to try and build something like u didn. how deep is your cube?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

10" cube is same dimension on each side. You need to make sure its big enough inside to clear the speaker. STRONGLY suggest using glue and screws to assemble.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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wellcraft
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I built the box but still need to glue it. I built it 10 16x7 because I didn't have more space as my car has a factory ac and don't have much space and under the seat is the computer of the car. It sounds good but not that impress with bass but I'm pretty sure is because of the box. the speakers have almost as much bass as the sub. I adjusted everything in the amp and with the equalizer.

My other option would be installing the sub in the trunk, but we need the extra space.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK - you have your amp set up wrong. You have HPF (hi-pass) and LPF (low pass filters) on the channel pairs.

The way this is supposed to work is that there is no low bass in the regular speaker and no higher stuff in the sub.

Hi pass is what is means - passes high frequencies. You want to set that maybe around 100 to 200 hz. Those channels feed youre regular speakers.

Low Pass is what feeds the sub. Set the frequency the same as the Hi pass. Now you can balance the sub level to the other speakers. All you should be getting out if the sub is real low stuff - should sound real muddy and thumpy.

You can fine tune the frequencies that they are set at, but they should be set at pretty much the same level. Adjust one maybe a little one way or another and see if it helps. Gonna tell you more than you want to know now. The Hz (hertz) that you do the split is rarely a sharp split. Usually there is a bit of a slope and the rate of slope depends on the design of the crossover. Bottom line is set them both the same and adjust levels. THEN adjust the crossover frequency a little one way or another - probably on the HPF one - and see if it sounds a little better or not. You probably wont end up with the frequency being any different that 2X or 1/2.

That should get you close - the box isnt really magical - and what you have should be fine.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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wellcraft
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Joined: September 12, 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I need to adjust ghe amp them. Now the problem im having is that my alternator is over charging and need to fix that as the amp is shutting down for protection. I was suspecting an issue with my alt a few weeks ago.

I starteda new thread asking where the voltage regulator is in this newer bettles and or newer alternators. Is over charging at about 16v most of the time except when idling.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah - you dont want to cook your electronics. Would disconnect pretty much everything you can until you resolve it. FYI - theres several types of alternator - internally regulated or externally regulated. All of my cars use internall regulated ones (just the wire for the idiot light and the big power lead), have used one that used the little Motorola regulator with (I think) the round plug with 3 or 4 connections. I am sure that you will get pointed in the right direction.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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wellcraft
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Joined: September 12, 2014
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Location: Georgia
wellcraft is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be pulling the engine next week to fix an oil cooler leak, check the clutch and fix the alternator issue.

I ended up disconnecting the whole sound system just in case.

Today I worked with the factory ac system and the motor/blower that's in the back needed some help, was able to fix it and i will be putting it back tomorrow.

I think that I'll be replacing the ac seals when pulling the engine next week and refill the system again. Need to check what I need while working on that as I never done this before. I belive I need some oil, r134 and something else.
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