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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freemananana wrote:
I have a '74 Beetle that is having some problems. I think it may be the solex carb on it. It has been giving me issues since I bought the car. My question is what carb can I bolt on? It is a 1600cc.

I know there are endless options, but I just want something relatively easy to tune and reliable. It is a Baja style bug that sees very little offroad action. It barely sees the road actually.


What symptoms are you getting that point to it being the carburetor?


If you can determine that it is in fact the carburetor, I would also recommend you e-mail Tim at http://volkzbitz.com/
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Freemananana
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It starts and idles for a little bit, but when it warms up it dies. It has always had an awfully high idle. It is at my father in laws and he says it is the carb or the timing. That's all I have to go off of.

I just remember driving it and it died randomly. Couldn't get it to start for a week or so.
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freemananana wrote:
It starts and idles for a little bit, but when it warms up it dies. It has always had an awfully high idle. It is at my father in laws and he says it is the carb or the timing. That's all I have to go off of.

I just remember driving it and it died randomly. Couldn't get it to start for a week or so.


1. Check the shut-off solenoid. Does it click?
2. If it does, check if you have fuel in the bowl
3. If there is fuel, check the pressure on the fuel pump
4. Clean the jets with carburetor cleaner. If it keeps the car idling, I believe you'll need a rebuild
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Freemananana
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have to check that solenoid. I am searching for some pictures now. I recently dropped the motor when I was cutting the rear end off, so I may have just messed up some wire Rolling Eyes I'll have to check to make sure it is still connected. Just a shame the car is over 2 hours away.
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freemananana wrote:
I'll have to check that solenoid. I am searching for some pictures now. I recently dropped the motor when I was cutting the rear end off, so I may have just messed up some wire Rolling Eyes I'll have to check to make sure it is still connected. Just a shame the car is over 2 hours away.


Let us all know what you find.

I'm in the same boat, except it's just 1-hour. What could take me a couple of evenings of work ends up taking me weeks. I hate it.
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How can the brake light switches actually be torqued correctly? I can't seem to get any type of socket onto the brake light switch.

Would I need to pull the master cylinder in order to do so?
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is a trigger shifter and why would I want one?? Confused
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Save the Supers!!
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably has a trigger that you pull so it will go into reverse!. I have never had one. It's just something that may look cool! Probably junk! But I don't know, Perhaps they can be speed shifted without fear of getting it into reverse!
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
Probably has a trigger that you pull so it will go into reverse!. I have never had one. It's just something that may look cool! Probably junk! But I don't know, Perhaps they can be speed shifted without fear of getting it into reverse!


Hmmm...thanks...but w/all those "probably"s, "just something"s and "perhaps"es I think I'll wait for another answer! Very Happy
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!
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pdowty68
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

(Stupid question) On 68 and up Beetles with the padded dash (Not 1303 supers) are the speaker grilles and glovebox supposed to be black or body color? I've seen it both ways.
Sorry for the stupid question...
Thanks,
Paul

Also feel free check out my 73 super for sale on the classifieds Smile
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdowty68 wrote:
(Stupid question) On 68 and up Beetles with the padded dash (Not 1303 supers) are the speaker grilles and glovebox supposed to be black or body color? I've seen it both ways.
Sorry for the stupid question...
Thanks,
Paul

Also feel free check out my 73 super for sale on the classifieds Smile


I have two 1968s and both have the same color as the body.
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pdowty68
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mrkotfw wrote:
pdowty68 wrote:
(Stupid question) On 68 and up Beetles with the padded dash (Not 1303 supers) are the speaker grilles and glovebox supposed to be black or body color? I've seen it both ways.
Sorry for the stupid question...
Thanks,
Paul

Also feel free check out my 73 super for sale on the classifieds Smile


I have two 1968s and both have the same color as the body.


Thanks Smile
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mrkotfw wrote:
How can the brake light switches actually be torqued correctly? I can't seem to get any type of socket onto the brake light switch.

Would I need to pull the master cylinder in order to do so?


They are tapered threads, in a steel body. Tighten them a good grunt. Have a helper step on the brake just as hard as they can. If the brake light switches do not leak they are tight enough.
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
mrkotfw wrote:
How can the brake light switches actually be torqued correctly? I can't seem to get any type of socket onto the brake light switch.

Would I need to pull the master cylinder in order to do so?


They are tapered threads, in a steel body. Tighten them a good grunt. Have a helper step on the brake just as hard as they can. If the brake light switches do not leak they are tight enough.


I didn't think to have someone step on the brakes. I'll redo it.

Maybe I'm missing something here, and you've explained it already, but how would I go about getting a good grip? So I don't necessarily need to torque it to spec (I believe 23 ft.lbs or 14 ft.lbs?)
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 2:58 pm    Post subject: single whheel Reply with quote

Howdy does any one have a blow up / schematic of a single wheel trailer axel set up ? I.E. allstate Question I am curious about how that spring works.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 3:32 pm    Post subject: VW 340 tool plate?? Reply with quote

This seems to be the thread for this question...too. Very Happy

Can anyone tell me what this plate is for and how it's used? I have the complete VW340 tool which includes this, but for the life of me I can't figure out exactly how this piece is used, placed in the tool, on the spring, taking off, putting on, etc.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1542843

Thanks!

Victor
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!
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bustythebeetle
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so im having a problem with my 1600cc 1973 motor (not superbeetle ). every time i go to push the clutch in when i stop the car wants to die but if it does die when i go around a corner and pop the clutch it starts back up violently for a sec then its good till i stop again. Evil or Very Mad

also when i get to about 25 to 30 mph and up the motors rpms rev up but the car does not want to go anywhere.




CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME THIS IS MY DAILY AND I DONT HAVE ANYTHING ELSE Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bustythebeetle wrote:
Ok so im having a problem with my 1600cc 1973 motor (not superbeetle ). every time i go to push the clutch in when i stop the car wants to die but if it does die when i go around a corner and pop the clutch it starts back up violently for a sec then its good till i stop again. Evil or Very Mad


Sounds like a nasty vacuum leak.

bustythebeetle wrote:
also when i get to about 25 to 30 mph and up the motors rpms rev up but the car does not want to go anywhere.


Your clutch is shot. Or seriously out of adjustment. Do you have more than 3/4" of play in the clutch pedal?
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
bustythebeetle wrote:
Ok so im having a problem with my 1600cc 1973 motor (not superbeetle ). every time i go to push the clutch in when i stop the car wants to die but if it does die when i go around a corner and pop the clutch it starts back up violently for a sec then its good till i stop again. Evil or Very Mad


Sounds like a nasty vacuum leak.

bustythebeetle wrote:
also when i get to about 25 to 30 mph and up the motors rpms rev up but the car does not want to go anywhere.


Your clutch is shot. Or seriously out of adjustment. Do you have more than 3/4" of play in the clutch pedal?


By violently, did you mean that it shakes? If so, yeah, your clutch is shot.

Check for vacuum leaks. Get a properly rated fire extinguisher and a can of carburetor cleaner and spray around the manifold intakes, base of the carburetor. If the RPM goes up/down, you got a leak.

After that, you'll most likely need to pull the engine and replace the clutch/clutch release bearing.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:12 pm    Post subject: Re: single whheel Reply with quote

calvinater wrote:
Howdy does any one have a blow up / schematic of a single wheel trailer axel set up ? I.E. allstate Question I am curious about how that spring works.


There is an accessories forum here on the samba which is where the allstate trailer guys hang out.

The sheet of paper is there to establish size. The swivel mechanism is two thick steel plates, one with a 2 inch diameter stub and one with a 2 inch diameter hole. The swivel parts had a grease channel that according to the owners manual you were supposed to take apart and grease every few thousand miles. I added grease fittings, they do a great job of forcing grease to every last corner.

Tire size 4.80-8

The smaller spring is actually supposed to be a rubber puck, I have ordered one, it has not yet arrived.

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