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Rough running after freeway miles--checklist
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your drawing is correct. You can plumb in the return "Y" either before or after the fuel filter...remembering that the fuel in the return has already been filtered

You may get just a little bit better fuel accumulation for the pump by putting the return in between filter and pump. Either should be fine.

Be sure to use a "Y" and not a "T" fitting. Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray, have you ever cleaned the slider contacts on the gauge float? What gets those clean?
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Lars S
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
Your drawing is correct. You can plumb in the return "Y" either before or after the fuel filter...remembering that the fuel in the return has already been filtered...


Ray, I have read that many skip the Y and just block off the extra return when moving to 2-port pumps, dont know about the Ranger pump but many pumps are told not to need the extra return. Not having the extra return could benefit to cure vapor lock issuses since the pump is forced to use "new" gas from the tank and not keep re-circling most of it in the engine bay...or...?


/Lars S
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really a problem on type 4. I did some direct measuring back in 99/2000. Even in 100+degree ambient in Dallas there is no appreciable rise in fuel temp from the return Line. I calculated fuel in line time as well and posted it years back. Its under 10 seconds just hoing off memory. The engine uses only a fraction of the fuel in the pipe.
there is no cumulative fuel temp rise while driving due to the large surface area of the tanks and lines.
However....in hot, climate if the car has been sitting still for a while the fuel will reach ambient temps. Its still not a problem. Ray
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Lars S
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tanks Ray!
And pump wise, do generally a 2-port pump need the Y return at all?
Edit:
From what I understand the 3rd pump port on Djet pump is the outlet from a pressure relief valve protecting the hoses etc from to high pressure if say the return line is blocked off.
Lars S
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lars S wrote:
Tanks Ray!
And pump wise, do generally a 2-port pump need the Y return at all?
Edit:
From what I understand the 3rd pump port on Djet pump is the outlet from a pressure relief valve protecting the hoses etc from to high pressure if say the return line is blocked off.
Lars S


That im not 100% sure of. I know the 3 port D-jet pump "pulled" or suck better than the two port L-jet pump.
Really....that difference from everything I can find....having had both pumps open and looked at the insides.....the primary difference I can find between them that, explains better priming is the port and feeding arrangement.

The D-jet through its plumbing, feeds from an accumulated surplus. I know it helps the L-jet pump. The Ford pump is similar enough in layout to L-jet that I am assuming it should help it as well.
It would be nice to know for sure if the Ford pump could run without return feed......but im not going to experiment on my car Wink
Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
bradself wrote:
Wow, thank you, yes! I can send you this set from the spare harness here. I'll
Pm you my snail mail addy.


No problem. Basically I have made a little pair of jigs that I use to grind off the wire ferrule from the connectors. I leave a straight uniform tang sticking out.

I use use modified telecom but connectors with a slot in the connector end that slip knto the tank and fit the fork end in the slot. I then use a ratcheting crimper with a 2.5mm octagonal coaxial, cable crimper die to crimp the old fork into the new wire ferrule.
I have another little jig that allows me to slot the other end of the ferrule to create a crimp barrel and wire strain releif so a normal open barrel, crimper can be used. I will dig one out and send a picture. Ray


Hey Ray, if you have a quick second a pic of the mod'd telecom and the number of the Paladin die you use for this would be great info.

IIRC you use silver tubing from McMC--whatever info you can share I'd greatly appreciate it. I have a spare harness to salvage these ECU connectors, I'd like to not butt splice cut offs, but I can under duress. Thanks man!!!
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