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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21513 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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Your drawing is correct. You can plumb in the return "Y" either before or after the fuel filter...remembering that the fuel in the return has already been filtered
You may get just a little bit better fuel accumulation for the pump by putting the return in between filter and pump. Either should be fine.
Be sure to use a "Y" and not a "T" fitting. Ray |
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bradself Samba Member
Joined: January 13, 2013 Posts: 167 Location: SF, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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Ray, have you ever cleaned the slider contacts on the gauge float? What gets those clean? |
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Lars S Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2007 Posts: 783 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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raygreenwood wrote: |
Your drawing is correct. You can plumb in the return "Y" either before or after the fuel filter...remembering that the fuel in the return has already been filtered... |
Ray, I have read that many skip the Y and just block off the extra return when moving to 2-port pumps, dont know about the Ranger pump but many pumps are told not to need the extra return. Not having the extra return could benefit to cure vapor lock issuses since the pump is forced to use "new" gas from the tank and not keep re-circling most of it in the engine bay...or...?
/Lars S _________________ Porsche 914 -72, Bahia Red daily driver
VW411 2-d -70, White, sold
VW412 4-d, -73, Gold Metallic, daily driver
Suzuki T500, -69, Candy Gold, sold
Suzuki K50, -77, Black, daily driver
BMW R69S -69, White, sold
Husqvarna 118cc, -47, Black, Sold |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21513 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Not really a problem on type 4. I did some direct measuring back in 99/2000. Even in 100+degree ambient in Dallas there is no appreciable rise in fuel temp from the return Line. I calculated fuel in line time as well and posted it years back. Its under 10 seconds just hoing off memory. The engine uses only a fraction of the fuel in the pipe.
there is no cumulative fuel temp rise while driving due to the large surface area of the tanks and lines.
However....in hot, climate if the car has been sitting still for a while the fuel will reach ambient temps. Its still not a problem. Ray |
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Lars S Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2007 Posts: 783 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:38 am Post subject: |
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Tanks Ray!
And pump wise, do generally a 2-port pump need the Y return at all?
Edit:
From what I understand the 3rd pump port on Djet pump is the outlet from a pressure relief valve protecting the hoses etc from to high pressure if say the return line is blocked off.
Lars S _________________ Porsche 914 -72, Bahia Red daily driver
VW411 2-d -70, White, sold
VW412 4-d, -73, Gold Metallic, daily driver
Suzuki T500, -69, Candy Gold, sold
Suzuki K50, -77, Black, daily driver
BMW R69S -69, White, sold
Husqvarna 118cc, -47, Black, Sold |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21513 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:07 am Post subject: |
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Lars S wrote: |
Tanks Ray!
And pump wise, do generally a 2-port pump need the Y return at all?
Edit:
From what I understand the 3rd pump port on Djet pump is the outlet from a pressure relief valve protecting the hoses etc from to high pressure if say the return line is blocked off.
Lars S |
That im not 100% sure of. I know the 3 port D-jet pump "pulled" or suck better than the two port L-jet pump.
Really....that difference from everything I can find....having had both pumps open and looked at the insides.....the primary difference I can find between them that, explains better priming is the port and feeding arrangement.
The D-jet through its plumbing, feeds from an accumulated surplus. I know it helps the L-jet pump. The Ford pump is similar enough in layout to L-jet that I am assuming it should help it as well.
It would be nice to know for sure if the Ford pump could run without return feed......but im not going to experiment on my car
Ray |
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bradself Samba Member
Joined: January 13, 2013 Posts: 167 Location: SF, CA
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Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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raygreenwood wrote: |
bradself wrote: |
Wow, thank you, yes! I can send you this set from the spare harness here. I'll
Pm you my snail mail addy. |
No problem. Basically I have made a little pair of jigs that I use to grind off the wire ferrule from the connectors. I leave a straight uniform tang sticking out.
I use use modified telecom but connectors with a slot in the connector end that slip knto the tank and fit the fork end in the slot. I then use a ratcheting crimper with a 2.5mm octagonal coaxial, cable crimper die to crimp the old fork into the new wire ferrule.
I have another little jig that allows me to slot the other end of the ferrule to create a crimp barrel and wire strain releif so a normal open barrel, crimper can be used. I will dig one out and send a picture. Ray |
Hey Ray, if you have a quick second a pic of the mod'd telecom and the number of the Paladin die you use for this would be great info.
IIRC you use silver tubing from McMC--whatever info you can share I'd greatly appreciate it. I have a spare harness to salvage these ECU connectors, I'd like to not butt splice cut offs, but I can under duress. Thanks man!!! |
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