| Best way to strip a body and a pan |
| plastic media blasting |
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64% |
[ 9 ] |
| soda blasting |
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14% |
[ 2 ] |
| alkaline dip / electrophoresis |
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21% |
[ 3 ] |
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| Total Votes : 14 |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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 Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 2:52 pm Post subject: soda vs. plastic media blastic vs. alkaline dip |
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I have found 3 types of ways to strip the pan and the body of my 79 vert within an hour of my home.
One place does soda blasting
two places do plastic media blasting
one place does a double dip- alkaline to dissolve crud and electrophoretic
to remove rust
(the dip is something like 2-3x the expense of blasting)
oh and they all offer to shoot some primer on your car, but I'd much rather prep the surface myself so that the whole paint job doesn't peel off later 
So what to do? I have heard good results and bad results/ horror stories with all the above methods. Please advise! Thanks. |
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skills@eurocarsplus
Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007
Posts: 16863
Location: sticksville, ct.
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| Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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plastic or soda gets my vote
_________________
| gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
| Brian wrote: |
| Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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CanadianBug
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2008
Posts: 222
Location: South Western Ontario
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| Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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I've had several body shells and a lot of panels media blasted over the years... it gets my vote as the #1 way to get things stripped.
Mike
_________________
| skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
bodywork isn't a fucking race. |
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Matt K.
Paint and Body Nutcase
Joined: January 14, 2005
Posts: 2598
Location: Hemet, So Cal.
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| Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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I have never worked on anything that was "Dipped".......always had the items blasted with great results.
_________________
This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.) |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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skills@eurocarsplus
Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007
Posts: 16863
Location: sticksville, ct.
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| Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 9:07 am Post subject: |
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my understanding is unless you can neutralize the 'dip' it keeps eating away at stuff.
the only way i would 'dip' is if i could also dip the whole car in epoxy after the fact.
your car will literally rust from the inside out
tried and true sand/soda is the best way to go imho
_________________
| gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
| Brian wrote: |
| Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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CanadianBug
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2008
Posts: 222
Location: South Western Ontario
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| Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 10:40 am Post subject: Re: similar thread |
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They told you the truth.
_________________
| skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
bodywork isn't a fucking race. |
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abritinthebay
Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2012
Posts: 294
Location: San Francisco, USA
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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| skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
my understanding is unless you can neutralize the 'dip' it keeps eating away at stuff.
the only way i would 'dip' is if i could also dip the whole car in epoxy after the fact.
your car will literally rust from the inside out
tried and true sand/soda is the best way to go imho |
This... is just wrong.
When you dip the car you first dip it in a warm Base liquid - this strips all the paint, gunk, etc. The BASE is what does most of the eating and stripping. THEN they dip in in a huge acid bath. If you remember your high school chemistry then you'll know this neutralizes the base so theres no more eating of anything from this point on other than rust. Why rust? Well the acid is just standard phosphoric acid. Basically a bulk version of Ospho or many of the other things that Samba peeps put into their cars restoration process without freaking out and thinking it'll eat their car. It won't do anything to your car other than eat rust and protect the metal.
After that it leaves a great protective coating on the metal so it won't flash rust (phos-acid is awesome that way). Most places will do a water dip or hose down then dry it off with towels and leave in a hot curing-type room to evaporate any remaining water.
It's quite simply the hands down best way to strip your car of EVERYTHING. Nothing comes close.
This has downsides:
- you need to remove EVERYTHING from the shell. Everything. No chrome, no pot metal, no VIN plate. Everything.
- It will remove it everywhere - including inside square stock. This can be a good thing, but you need to know it so you can then re-protect the inside of metal.
It's not going to be for everyone but if you're doing a ground up restoration... it's probably the best and quickest way to get to a solid back-to-basics base shell. |
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CanadianBug
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2008
Posts: 222
Location: South Western Ontario
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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| abritinthebay wrote: |
This... is just wrong.
When you dip the car you first dip it in a warm Base liquid - this strips all the paint, gunk, etc. The BASE is what does most of the eating and stripping. THEN they dip in in a huge acid bath. If you remember your high school chemistry then you'll know this neutralizes the base so theres no more eating of anything from this point on other than rust. Why rust? Well the acid is just standard phosphoric acid. Basically a bulk version of Ospho or many of the other things that Samba peeps put into their cars restoration process without freaking out and thinking it'll eat their car. It won't do anything to your car other than eat rust and protect the metal.
After that it leaves a great protective coating on the metal so it won't flash rust (phos-acid is awesome that way). Most places will do a water dip or hose down then dry it off with towels and leave in a hot curing-type room to evaporate any remaining water.
It's quite simply the hands down best way to strip your car of EVERYTHING. Nothing comes close.
This has downsides:
- you need to remove EVERYTHING from the shell. Everything. No chrome, no pot metal, no VIN plate. Everything.
- It will remove it everywhere - including inside square stock. This can be a good thing, but you need to know it so you can then re-protect the inside of metal.
It's not going to be for everyone but if you're doing a ground up restoration... it's probably the best and quickest way to get to a solid back-to-basics base shell. |
This is correct, all of it.
Just don't be forgetting that all the seam sealer removed in the dip will need to be replaced.
Mike
_________________
| skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
bodywork isn't a fucking race. |
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VWCOOL
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006
Posts: 1821
Location: Down under
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2014 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Media (garnet, glass or plastic) on my next restos, as in the past
I do exterior only: Damned if I want to seam-seal and entire car, then re-treat every nook and cranny inside the sills and body reinforcing...
That trebles the effort and costs... on stuff you can't see! |
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motorhead364
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2008
Posts: 715
Location: Amarillo Texas
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shortride
Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2010
Posts: 1323
Location: Oklahoma
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clarkster75
Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2006
Posts: 161
Location: Lots of good clean livin' Utah
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| Posted: Sat May 31, 2014 12:01 am Post subject: |
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I bet I am sounding like the world biggest salesman on this but....If you can, try and look for glass media. Its better than soda, or sand, and probably cheaper than plastic, or dry ice, or walnuts.
You can watch on you tube under "dustless blasting." or the website under the same.
There are other companies that sell the equipment like Farrow and Geoblaster.
Don't have any tips on finding anyone in your area except maybe contacting a glass supplier somewhere, or Farrow/G.blast, and see if they sell to anyone where you are.
Where I live the guy said he would come to my house for $500 for the whole car. I think that is what the you tube Impala video (price) was too.
Hope this helped. |
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CiderGuy
Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2013
Posts: 1351
Location: Bucks County, Pa
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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I know this is an older thread, but I just got two prices to soda blast my car. Both were $150.00 per hour. $600 to $1200 depending on how many layers of paint that they find.
_________________
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Cars Currently Owned:
1970 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Project car for sale
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (Body off restoration)
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Thrasher22
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010
Posts: 858
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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| skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
the only way i would 'dip' is if i could also dip the whole car in epoxy after the fact.
your car will literally rust from the inside out |
This is my concern as well. While dipping your car will remove all the unseen rust inside pillars and behind generally inaccessible panels, it'll also remove all remaining paint as well. I can't imagine the acid coating will protect as well or for as long as good old paint.
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1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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abritinthebay
Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2012
Posts: 294
Location: San Francisco, USA
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| Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 1:01 am Post subject: |
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That's why you'd do an e-coating application after or use something like Eastwood's interior frame spray kit.
Being lazy or doing the job half assed isn't an argument against doing it the best way (dipping). Also it came unprotected from the factory so you're at least as good as new 
If you don't dip you're just leaving rust there to rot your car. Your call. |
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Anejo
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2008
Posts: 25
Location: Milton Georgia by way of Los Gatos
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| Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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Until you've dipped a car, spent countless hours prepping, only to see a blob of paint bubbling goop rise out of your 100 hours and 2 grand worth of paint and supplies while baking will you swear to not ever dip again. Soda has always worked well. I'm sure there's other media that works well too.
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64' Vert L519
65' Deluxe L519 |
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skills@eurocarsplus
Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007
Posts: 16863
Location: sticksville, ct.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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| abritinthebay wrote: |
| Also it came unprotected from the factory so you're at least as good as new . |
ummm, try again.......
_________________
| gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
| Brian wrote: |
| Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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Anejo
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2008
Posts: 25
Location: Milton Georgia by way of Los Gatos
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:26 am Post subject: |
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Hello, not sure what the great photos of VW's process is meant to suggest. I like all the old photos by the way. Yes all the cars were dipped in a cleanser and paint when they were virgin steel for the 1st coat. They were also then sanded and painted at least 3 more times with a gun as I recall. A wonderful and expensive process. This is however significantly different than dipping a completely aged and hardened and sometimes several layers of paint. It only takes a couple grams of chemically softened paint across and entire seam to ruin a paint job. The reason I prefer soda is the paint that will never be seen, hidden in a seam, will remain hardened and never come back to haunt you in the oven.
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64' Vert L519
65' Deluxe L519 |
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