2276 Turnkey Build Thread - SCAT Kit

[jason]

Hey Tabari, I picked my case up the day after you dropped your parts off. They did the same thing to my case. It took me forever to get the piston to slide in and out. They deformed it a bit with the tap. He told me which ones he was going to do and it wasn't on his list. I'm just glad they didn't also do the front. I also had an adapter pin installed in the flywheel side bearing which I didn't ask for, he said it was messed up. Kind of weird it was a new case and it seemed to fit fine for me. They also cut my bearing tangs backwards so they had to remodify my bearings. At least their prices are good and they work fast.

[bugguy1967]

Yeah man, there's always some bad with the good there, huh? What did you use to smooth out the piston gallery?
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[jason]

I used one of those hooked de burring tools and a tiny file. I had to take the cutter out and use it by hand. They make an inside de burring tool for this type of work. Not a bad idea if you do motors often.

[bugguy1967]

Ok, I have one of those. Thanks.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[jason]

Any updates? Wondering if you broke her in yet?

[mark tucker]

if you slot the lifter bores instead of the lifter it never need be done again, and if you leave itsty bitsey tiny winey a burr on the lifter....there go's the lifter bore I see no up side to doing that to a lifter. is so than just put it in the lathe and remove the entire aera and that also lightens the lifter. as far as the taping they just did thier normal thing. a good thing to do is to deburr good then clean again....always.

[bugguy1967]

Hey. Funny. I check in almost every day to see if there's any interesting topics, and saw my thread at the top of the page just now. Today, I was planning on posting all the pics I have from this month. Work's been crazy. I get off late and have no time to put in work. I got the shortblock assembled yesterday afternoon. I'll post pics this evening.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

I'm realizing that I have waay too many pics piled up to knock this all out this evening. I'm try my best to get caught up. It's hard between work, and life, and the actual engine to still find time to post. Here we go.

I got everything cleaned the weekend before last besides the pistons and a few small items. I went through the block passages with some "bottle brushes", or whatever you want to call them. I was able to attach them to my drill and knock any stuff loose, though the passages looked really clean. The crankshaft racer spacer needed to be modified because it was too wide, and wouldn't let the clip snap in the groove. I also pressed in the dowels in the crank. There should be an interference fit between them. I drilled out the cooling passages in the heads for the thermostat rod to pass through.

Everything got bagged after cleaning to keep the assemblies as clean as possible. The best thing would be to have a dust proof room. Since I don't have that luxury, this is what I have to do for now:

Installed longer sump studs, or set screws with green Loctite. I never remember the P/N#.

We switched to SCAT's new Ultra 72 Window Lifters because they're said to be compatible with the harder SC-1 Billet. I weighed them, and the lowest weight in grams was 71.0, and the heaviest was 72.8.

Here's a SCAT next to a CB for visual comparison. Both have been slotted. Oh, and Mark, I didn't only cut a groove. I also smoothed out the area.

Here's the 3rd case breather on the inside and outside:

Everything was cleaned in my company's $2000 parts cleaner that gets used about two times a year, besides my stuff. They bought it to see if they could rebuild compressors in-house, but found it to be more costly in labor than to buy new ones. now it just sits.

On Friday, I pulled the case out of its' plastic and installed the plugs with the same Loctite 592 Teflon Paste that I use on the barbs. I won't stake them like I've seen. After installing many NPT plugs in many different applications, I feel there's no reason to. They're not going anywhere.

Before I dropped in the center main bearings, I checked the new case dowels to make sure they didn't protrude too far. I used O.E.M. dowels the first time. I had about a millimeter to .75mm of clearance on all.

The shortblock went together smoothly. I lubed the cam lobes, lifters, rod and main bearings, sides of rods, timing gears, and cam bearings. I used Joe Gibbs engine assembly lube, STP, Permatex engine lube for the gears, and some red Loctite joint sealer for the case halves. the number escapes me at the moment.

Packed the pump for quick priming. Lubed the gear's shaft and the contact areas in the bore beforehand.

Off topic, check out how this German HATZ diesel engine has a very similar layout. It uses solid tappets with conventional diesel oil, even though that's not supposed to work anymore. It has cast iron finned cylinders and the head and pushrod layout is similar.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[auslander]

Those Scat lifters window machining looks rough? You got some better pics? How many breathers you going to have on the engine? Besides the head I like to run a breather hole from where the fuel pump usually is.
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[mark tucker]

window was edm'ed, please deburr it and chamfer it too as it may just slice the case when it rotates to a high thrust location.I like window lifters but thats not quite what i would want or do. Ive run "windo " lifters since the early 1990 or 91 when we got some prototype cranes with lotsa holes&windoes in thier extream roller lifter,I still have a set and may put them in my 2332. I think compcams or somebody else has that lifter now that crane has gone, went&came back. I was looking at some tool steel chevy &ford takeouts on flebay there cheep,wish I could find sometool steel mushroom chevy lifters for $40.....

[bugguy1967]

I did clean up the windows. They are pretty rough looking, but don't actually protrude outwards. I went into the corners until nothing caught my fingers. Like everything else, they need modification.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

[bugguy1967]

Hey all! I have tons of pictures backed-up on my phone, so I'll do a little at a time till I get them all uploaded here. I completely blueprinted the cylinders recently. The complete list is as follows: measured ring gaps, measured piston skirt-to cylinder clearances, measured barrel lengths, measured for barrel taper and ovality, measured ring side-play, and "knocked the tooth" of the cylinder walls, which means to flatten out the small high spots made from the factory honing job that could only be seen with a magnification device. This will hopefully aid in better ring sealing.

These are all the measuring tools used to get all except for the knocking off of the teeth:

Installed the head studs with a borrowed stud installer. These are really nice, but out of my budget for what they do. For now, I just borrow when needed.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

My client wanted to get the pistons within tighter weight tolerances, since the SCAT advertised weights were within .5 grams of each other, but in reality, they were over a gram off according to my scale. By the way, my Ohaus digital scale gets checked by my company's calibration department every six months to ensure accuracy. By merely swapping components, I was able to get the weights within exactly .5 grams of each other. No modifications needed! Below, are some of my scribblings that I used to figure which parts were going to what assembly.

On another note, I'm not sure what kind of equipment they use to weigh their parts, but I got completely different weights.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Prepared the cylinders by using wet 600 grit paper with WD-40. I sanded in the same directions as the cross-hatches, then wiped them off, cleaned them in the solvent tank with a Scotch Brite pad, dried them with a series of white rags until I could not wipe off any more black residue, sprayed off the lint, and packed them in new, clean bags.

I also washed a set of 17mm O.D. M12x1.5 nuts to replace the 19mm O.D. nuts that were on the engine. I used the ARP lube on the threads and torqued the six down to 25 foot pounds, one at a time.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

When the heads came back from the machine shop, I opted for Jorge to leave everything apart, so I could properly lube, clean, and re-install the way I liked. I re-installed everything just with the outer springs for break-in and bought a Schley spring installer for when the head is attached the the motor. Some say to leave the springs the way they're going to be ran, and some say to remove the inners. If I knew for sure that the parts would be fine with the duals for cam break-in, I'd do it. Nobody can prove to me that they will though. I had a SCAT cam on SCAT lifters fail on me with SCAT duals about six years ago, and have followed the cam grinder's recommendations ever since. I also made sure that the keepers didn't touch when re-installing.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[mark tucker]

greese under springs??you dont want the spring to spin or slip, and greesee can keep the oil from removing the heat. I also noticed the small gally plug not taped&pluged, but the one under the FF fitting was.witch shouldent be.(takes a lot of care to not effit up reaming&taping it)
your almost ready!!!!zooom zoom zooom

[bugguy1967]

Yeah, lol! I was just wanting to lube everything that moves. In retrospect, I should've just used oil.

Threw on the cylinders. I use Curil T on the bases and a very light coat on the insides of the cylinders and piston skirts.

Nothing too special about the heads going on. Used that ARP lube on the threads and worked them up to 18 foot pounds in four steps. The inside washers got 518 sealant on them.

After the heads went on, I attached the cooler adapter to the cooler. I forgot to install the hoover bit, so it'll have to be separated again. The picture is showing how I oil the seals before crushing them. Lubricated seals love a lot longer than dry ones.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

My client ordered Norris aluminum pushrods awhile back. I needed to remove approximately half an inch from them.

They have a step inside, unlike the steel pushrods I've cut that needed to be cut down after shortening the pushrods. I simply measured the I.D. Before the step, and ordered the appropriate size bit. It slipped in and lowered the step perfectly! I bagged up the bit and labeled it for the next set of norris pushrods that I'll cut.

I cut them down on my company lathe. I also chamfered them with the same cutter (pictured) to ease installation of the ends.

After installing the ends, I brought them home to re-check my work. All of the pushrods were .005" within each other.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

My first choice was to use the CB steel hubbed pulley, but they are no longer in available in black. I ordered through ACN because I thought everything they had on their website was actually in stock. Unfortunately, they didn't, and coudn't get one either.

I went with JayCee through Pierside and ordered it with the sand seal hub instead of the grooved type. Today, these are pretty much the highest end pulleys available. Just for anyone that doesn't know, they ask what brand and type of seal you're going to use, so they can machine the hub to the right size. That must mean that different brand seals have different I.D.s. Anyways, they were so nice, I bought four of these pulleys. I hate when I go back to buy more of something only to find out that they're not available.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"