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Engine advise, Rebuild or Buy new?
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scott.carrick
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:20 pm    Post subject: Engine advise, Rebuild or Buy new? Reply with quote

I am 17 yrs old and currently own a 1973 Super Beetle. My engine runs somewhat strong however I plan to own this car for many years to come. I have had some small issues in the past which is why I thought to have my engine completely rebuilt. Here's the problem, my engine is (at least I'm told) a 1966 dual port 1600cc. My question is can this engine I have be rebuilt to a stronger more reliable state given its difference in year? Or should I invest in a brand new turn key engine? Please help, I really want my love back on the street soon. Thank you.
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volkswagen_bug
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the case is true, you can rebuild the engine. What makes you want to rebuild it? Also, dual port engines were not made in 1966. Post the number stamped into the case under the generator arm and we'll tell you what year the engine was produced.
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think its a 1966 1600 DP ...

other than that, I would do a rebuild ( unless there is nothing wrong with it ) or you can get another old engine to rebuild, while your current one is still running strong.
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Last edited by -Zodiac- on Tue Feb 24, 2015 7:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't rebuild if it's running good. Get a used engine and rebuild that if you need a project.

Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!! Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you !!!

Similar to "let sleeping dogs lie"
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scott.carrick
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@volkswagen_bug The number stamped says F0280832[/img]
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volkswagen_bug
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 1300cc 40bhp DIN, 50HP

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php
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andrewvwclassic
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no such thing as a 1966 dual port. If it is a single port 1966 motor imo switch it out with a dual port. there are howver some things that can be done with a single port to get it breathing a little fire. The best book by far that goes into depth with single port tuning is the how to hotrod your volkswagon book. be sure to read it all the way through to pick up on all the hidden tricks. I would definitely pick up a few other books as well to use in conjunction. I have 3 manuals and I need all of them. the vw like many have said is a finly tuned ballancing act that needs to be just right. Some people like keeping it stock you might want to consider that as well. if you do howver have a late model dual port it might be worth a better look to decide if it is worth a rebuild. if it is lacking the power or dressing you want for the future like the above poster said build one on the side and take your time. lots of people have learned to work on cars starting with the volkswagon. Welcome to the Samba
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jhicken
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's possible that an original 1300 was rebuilt to a 1600 and dual port heads were added. Regardless, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you are concerned about the condition/reliability of the motor, best thing to do is a compression check. If each cylinder is holding 115# or more, then it's healthy. Start a new motor fund, and deposit a hundred bucks a month till and save till ya need it. In the mean time, learn how to take care of the motor you have.

Keep it tuned, change the oil every 3000 miles and keep the valves adjusted. Make sure all the original engine tin is present and the engine seals, even the ones around the spark plugs, are in good shape. Change the fuel lines, chances are they haven't been changed in a long time. If you have a fuel filter within the engine compartment, move it to above the transmission. It's safer there. Check the brakes, replace the soft brake lines for the same reason as the fuel lines.

Buy a few manuals, the Muir book is a good primer for a novice, and the Bentley manual will have most all the technical info you'll ever need. Learn as much as you can and enjoy it.

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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dual Port:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Single Port:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Single Port Manifold:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dual Port Manifold end castings:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dual Port Manifold:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Heads:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by Danwvw on Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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scott.carrick
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice Jeffery. I have a question though, is it safe/good for the engine to run this set up? I'm worried that since this block originally wasn't dual port that it will damage the block, is that true?
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's fine! If what you have is a 1966 case that someone put the 1973 Dual Port Heads and Dog House cooling on then it's fine to do. The the F case won't be a dual oil pressure relief case and the 1973 case AE or AH or whatever was Dual oil pressure relief. The Dual relief cases are preferred though.
If you going to build your engine into a performance engine though like a 1776cc or more then it would be nice to get a dual relief case and use the Dog House Fan set up on it too. The Fan shrouds before the Dog House fan Shrouds like the 1966, 67, 68, 69, and 70 did not cool as well the fan's were narrower and the oil coolers were steel rather than aluminum and the steel oil cooler sat in the air flow to the #3 cylinder making it run hot. Volkswagen retarded the ignition on #3 about 3 degrees to compensate. This is a function of the distributor so it's important to use the correct distributor when using an non doghouse cooling system.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run it until it dies. Buy a true dual port engine/case from a later model car as it will have the updated changes (dual relief, doghouse system, 8mm head studs, case savers, etc) and build a bigger/stronger engine on that.
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jhicken
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scott.carrick wrote:
Thanks for the advice Jeffery. I have a question though, is it safe/good for the engine to run this set up? I'm worried that since this block originally wasn't dual port that it will damage the block, is that true?


No, it should be fine. People have been updating and increasing power in their VW's for decades, if the car runs well, and all checks out, just maintain it properly and it'll treat you well. Learn as much as you can but find a good air-cooled VW mechanic to help you get it all squared away. Best to start with a solid foundation.

-jeffrey
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Volks Wagen
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhicken wrote:
If you are concerned about the condition/reliability of the motor, best thing to do is a compression check. If each cylinder is holding 115# or more, then it's healthy.


I agree with keeping it running while building another, and I'd add to Jeffreys comment above to keep an eye on oil temperature and oil pressure as primary indicators of engine health.
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