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Screen to simulate oil cooler
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Joel
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
[Yeah that Gene Berg had no experience or testing with VW engines....... Laughing
there is a lot he got rong too.


Not saying Bergs word is the be all and end all just making the point he actually did testing not the usual samba keyboard mechanics response I drove mine like that for 10 mins once and it didn't catch fire so can't be hot.

frankly I don't know why people have to go and bastardize the original setup which works do well but each to their own.
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

because we're hotrodders! If it can't be bolted together we'll MAKE it fit Very Happy Does it work?? lets find out.

But the idea is to make stuff work better, of course.
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel, my motor came out of a sandrail and is going into a full body sedan. Just trying to make it correct, not hacking up an already stock set-up.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so...how much power was the acvw made to put out??? and we are getting how much out of them??? and vw put 48 ida's on witch model? and vw made a 2332 when? vw added a turbo to the acvw when?? basturdize??? that'sup to you.I do my stuff corectly and it works corectly with no issues. you need to be smarter than what your working on....unless it's the internet.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U just made my day, well said thar govenor.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are going to omit the stock cooler, then use a doghouse shroud and fan, which is designed to not have a cooler in the way. Then just block off the cooler duct in the shroud.

It's a big mistake to remove the stock cooler in a non-doghouse shroud. The cooler is a big restriction, AND straightens the airflow to the 3/4 side. If you remove the stock non-DH cooler the 3/4 side gets too much air and the 1/2 doesn't get enough.

Worst case plug the case, but then bolt the stock cooler in place, even though it won't be used. At least the air flow will be normal.
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, your comments are along the lines of my original question. If removing the oil cooler disturbs the flow, couldn't the balance be restored by installing a screen in the oil cooler location with the similar surface area as the cooler?
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

why try to simulate the cooler when you can just use the cooler?
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was trying to avoid buying one. I'll just buy one now and do it right or maybe go as far as getting a doghouse shroud and blocking the cooler area like you suggested.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But why a screen? Why not... a piece of wood, or a tennis ball or two, or a little plastic buddah, all far better air flow characteristics than a screen.
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Joel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:

It's a big mistake to remove the stock cooler in a non-doghouse shroud. The cooler is a big restriction, AND straightens the airflow to the 3/4 side. If you remove the stock non-DH cooler the 3/4 side gets too much air and the 1/2 doesn't get enough.


Seems to be a concept a lot of people on here can't quite understand
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
But why a screen? Why not... a piece of wood, or a tennis ball or two, or a little plastic buddah, all far better air flow characteristics than a screen.


Because the oil cooler is basically a rectangle with vertical slots. Some air goes through it. Some air would go through a screen. Sizing the mesh to match the slot area of the cooler would be key.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no way you are going to get a "Screen" to flow air like the vanes in an oil cooler. Plug the ports on the block and I'm pretty sure you can get a busted leaking oil cooler (that is not going to flow any oil) for the same price as some chicken wire. Wink
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TinCanFab
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JPro62 wrote:
modok wrote:
But why a screen? Why not... a piece of wood, or a tennis ball or two, or a little plastic buddah, all far better air flow characteristics than a screen.


Because the oil cooler is basically a rectangle with vertical slots. Some air goes through it. Some air would go through a screen. Sizing the mesh to match the slot area of the cooler would be key.


How is rigging up screen inside the fan shroud easier than mounting an old blown cooler that also happens to be the most common and least desirable one they made? Go to any big swap meet and get the ugliest one you can find for $1. Cheaper than buying screen.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the 1/2 side has no finnage.on either setup. they are seperated by a lower and upper baffel/vane.I dont think all the air will go to the 3/4 side , as the air is coming out of the fan all the time it is spining where the openings are.1 side should not affect the other side unless the baffels are removed and both side connected . yes you will be better off using the dogystyle shroud. It would be nice to see a dyno cht reading for the non dh sh both ways.I doubt the 1/2 side will change more the 10-20 degrees.if at all. but I could be rong as I have been 8 times now.
the vanes on the 3/4 side keep the air directed,so it dosent "stackup" toward the top where it cant go any where but will hurt the flow. the 1/2 side cant do that. you could fab up a cooler replacement finnage thingy if you wished.probably just a few finns would be good to get the air going to the left to the other fins that are already there.instead of stacking tward the top due to the fins not being there to direct the are coming off the baldes.but a screan aint it.I should be easy&fast to do.just be sure it's sturdy, you dont ant nothing wadding up the fan. If you do use a old cooler I would remove every other or every other 2 "fins" so it straightens the air but dosent restrict the air.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does Mark, visualize how the air exits the fan blades. The air doesn't go straight out.

Over 10 years ago Jake Raby learned this in depth when he was developing the DTM.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes I know,but it should not affect the 1/2 side. it should have something there but a screan aint it. old shrouds should be cheep, hell a new one is cheep.
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first got my bug it had a Scat shroud. I soon found out that Scat shrouds don't provide enough cooling even for a stock engine when you live in the mountains. These are probably fine for flat landers who don't have to use full throttle for 10 minutes climbing a mountain. So I got a VW doghouse with a venturi ring. Much better!

Speaking of Gene Berg, I like his idea about oil coolers. If you're going to use an external oil cooler, keep the stock one and have two!
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil cooler plays a critical role in balancing the partitioned air within the upper plenums of the engine. This will vary based on the shroud thats used, as some have differences in the cooler cavity that can provide more, or less air to the oil cooler housing.

Everything matters. After spending years on this topic I still didn't learn it all.
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