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drakonis
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as far as timing its correctly timed and its a pertronics distributor. no points.
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PITApan
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drakonis wrote:
well as far as cooling goes. im going to buy the correct tins and veins and all the internals so it cools correctly. right now the flaps are wired open as i dont have a thermostat. it came that way. i dont drive it much so right now its not too big a deal. im going to fix it right. as for the carbs i cant spend too much. i like the k-dogs but i may go with 40mm webber/hpmx type. right now its a 1600 but soon it will transform into a 1915 or a 2054. most likely a 2054. for right now im going to concentrate on the correct tins for cooling and the t stat. The carb situation im not sure a set of 40mm hpmx carbs would work well. im thinking it alot of carb for just a 1600. after i build a new bigger engine then i could see it working well. more thoughts please. and dont beat me up about a gauge being cheap. The dakota digital was not cheap. lol.


Building the engine up will cost you durability for not a lot more horsepower.

The Weber IDF takes interchangeable venturi. This matches the carb to a range of engines. You will want to have them set up for your engine and roughly jetted. See aircooled.net.

Any dual setup will be more complex than a single setup. You will want to be confident of your skills and prepared to learn heaps new stuff.
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richparker
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with upgrading he Weber IDF40s but I would not get them from aircooled.net. Athough they are the same carb the Kit (linkage, intakes etc) from CB is way better.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=6409
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
If you have even a minor combustion gas leak past the ring terminal your gauge will read very high even when your CHT's are normal.


x2. I danced around this problem for months before I found out that several different depths of spark plug wells exist, and the DD sender will not work without cutting a notch in the deeper ones. Notice how the maroon (crimp) gets pinched on the lip of the head and pulls the orange (sender) out of alignment causing a leak. Then you have 900* exhaust gasses leaking out the spark plug directly onto the sender.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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udidwht
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When/if you get a chance pull the sender and post a pic of it.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

40 IDF's are the PERFECT carbs for a 1600cc,, that's all I run Laughing
find some good used,, I prefer them to hpmx's Wink
cheaper($$$) then new kduds Rolling Eyes
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/CB-Performance-Dual-I...rb-kit.htm

Do you know what you are talking about? This is the same kit, but we offer a setup/jet service also. Maybe you didn't realize we sell 4 brands of carb kit, all with the same genuine Spanish Weber carbs?

I also recommend the CB linkage/filters/intakes, better than the others IMO.

richparker wrote:
I agree with upgrading he Weber IDF40s but I would not get them from aircooled.net. Athough they are the same carb the Kit (linkage, intakes etc) from CB is way better.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=6409

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Jody '71
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drakonis wrote:
sender ring is against head. then plug washer and plug. in that order. all brand new btw. just installed last week.
If I recall correctly the plug washer should be removed. The ring terminal is the plug washer in affect. Having the plug washer in conjunction with the ring terminal may be the reason you're seeing higher CHT temps.
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Heathintexas
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm confused about the diagram above. Even though the main idea is to point out that one make of head has a deeper recess, I do see that it shows to use a crush washer along with the sender ring. I thought you were supposed to replace the spark plug washer with the ring so that you don't tamper with how much the plug protrudes into the combustion chamber.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't remove the plug washer myself.

Put it back on there and see if that changes the CHTs you are seeing. It only needs a whisper of a leak to make it read really high.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can rig the plug washer/sender ring any number of ways. When I made the drawing last year that was how I was running my bus and it was working fine. I've also had success running it with the sender and washer reversed. I have not had much luck running without the crush washer though; the DD sender is just a drilled out ring terminal, so the drilling a can vary and once it's used as a crush washer it changes the metallurgic properties of the cheap metal so re-crushing it will usually end up in a leak.

Robbie
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please use this post for further CHT discussions.
CHT Nirvana
Thank you
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