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Quick rust stopping/slowing
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vwwestyman
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:21 am    Post subject: Quick rust stopping/slowing Reply with quote

I've got some rust on the panels over the transmission/under the gas tank.

I was thinking of hitting it with a wire wheel, spraying it down with phosphoric acid, letting that dry (or do you rinse it after the rust turns black?), and hitting it with some rustoleum for now. Maybe one day I'll do a more proper restoration of the bus, but for the moment I'd simply like to just stop the rust from progressing.

Or I could hose it down with bar oil or something like that. Again, I'm not going for pretty in this unseen area, just stopping the crusty rust from progressing.

Thoughts?
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PITApan
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Re: Quick rust stopping/slowing Reply with quote

vwwestyman wrote:
I've got some rust on the panels over the transmission/under the gas tank.

I was thinking of hitting it with a wire wheel, spraying it down with phosphoric acid, letting that dry (or do you rinse it after the rust turns black?), and hitting it with some rustoleum for now. Maybe one day I'll do a more proper restoration of the bus, but for the moment I'd simply like to just stop the rust from progressing.

Or I could hose it down with bar oil or something like that. Again, I'm not going for pretty in this unseen area, just stopping the crusty rust from progressing.

Thoughts?


The phosphoric acid treatment will convert thin rust to iron phosphate. Wire wheel off the chunks. Yes, rinse well. The phosphate offers no protection. But it's chemically bonded to the steel and it's porous. so oil or paint penetrates and sticks like crazy. This is what "black phosphated" fasteners are about. oiled iron phosphate.


I would use both your strategies. After the phosphate is rinsed and dried, hit it with a good primer, several coats, then the paint. Let that cure a week or better (if it's warm) then go with the cosmoline.

Waxoil either commercial or home made, CRC SP-400, LPS3 or one of their other waxy film products, etc. There are many brands. I have a gallon of LPS 3 and it's excellent. Brush on with a chip brush or spray with an undercoating gun.. Skip the bar and chain oil.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pictures would be cool.
How to post photos/How to post a photo in the Forums

VW Bus Cavity Preservation - March, 1972
Body rot places to treat
http://www.roversnorth.com/Manufacturers/19
http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

Good Luck
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've got the right idea! Remove as much of the rust as you can so the acid will penetrate further down.

Since that's a small area, make sure to use a proper air filter and safety goggles, phosphoric acid is nasty stuff with lots of fumes.
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 1:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Quick rust stopping/slowing Reply with quote

PITApan wrote:
The phosphoric acid treatment will convert thin rust to iron phosphate. Wire wheel off the chunks. Yes, rinse well. The phosphate offers no protection. But it's chemically bonded to the steel and it's porous. so oil or paint penetrates and sticks like crazy. This is what "black phosphated" fasteners are about. oiled iron phosphate.

I would use both your strategies. After the phosphate is rinsed and dried, hit it with a good primer, several coats, then the paint. Let that cure a week or better (if it's warm) then go with the cosmoline.

Waxoil either commercial or home made, CRC SP-400, LPS3 or one of their other waxy film products, etc. There are many brands. I have a gallon of LPS 3 and it's excellent. Brush on with a chip brush or spray with an undercoating gun.. Skip the bar and chain oil.

x2 This is the method I learned while at sea, where rust is a constant maintenance issue. It's also where I learned to love LPS-3. That stuff is great!

That will at least stop the rust from advancing until you can work on a more permanent solution.
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