1970 Squareback Project "The BIF-Mobile"

[brakeman22]

Okay, so I'm working on re-assembling this thing. I'm installing the inner fan and I'm having trouble getting it lined up. If I have the rear fan housing (closest to the block) aligned should the fan slide on relatively easily?

Here are some pics:

[Bobnotch]

[brakeman22]

Thanks Bob. It went in about 1/4" and then gave resistance. I gave it a few "gentle" whacks with the rubber mallet and it's in. Thanks again.

[brakeman22]

Another quick question. I did some digging and I couldn't find a source on the cylinder head temp sensor grommet/seal. This would seal the hole in the tin where the temp sensor passes through. Anybody know if these are still available?

Thanks,
Chad

[brakeman22]

Alright, today should be the day she gets dropped in! Here's a quick pic of just about everything set up:

I'm going to make a post about the alternator and the brackets in the gen to alt conversion thread.

So, here's my plan for break in:
I'm using Valvoline VR1 10/30 oil. On break in, I'll use about 1/2 a bottle of the Lucas break in additive w/ zinc. Valves are already set at .006.

1. Statically time it w/ the test light procedure.
2. Remove spark plugs/rocker arms and crank for oil pressure (Light stays out for 1 minute)
3. Check for oil/fuel leaks
4. Oil both ends of pushrods, reinstall spark plugs/rocker arms, generously oil valves, rockers.
5. Start up and run at 2500 RPM for 20 minutes.
6. Drain/refill oil and clean oil screen, let sit overnight
7. Adjust valves
8. Run another 2500 RPM for 20 minutes
9. Drain and refill oil
10. Check valves again after 50 miles
11. Rings can take up to 1000 miles to seal

As far as #2 goes, if I disconnect the trigger points at the distributor, that should prevent the injectors from firing and putting unburnt fuel into the cylinder, correct?

Anybody have anything to add, or use a different procedure? I'm sure everyone's break in procedure will vary, but it would be nice to get some input.

I'm also understand that in those first 1,000 miles, you kind of want to drive it hard, as in accelerating up the range fast between shifts and maybe even taking some time to run it uphill, really working the motor to help the rings seal?

Thanks guys. I'm really nervous at this point, but I'm sure that's how everyone feels when firing up an engine for the first time.

Chad

[Donnie strickland]

Good luck!

You're right, everyone's break-in procedures vary. I just drive normally for 500 miles, then do a tune-up/oil change and go on my way. The main thing is you don't want to stay at any one RPM for a long time; vary the engine speeds while driving.

Check the oil for a while, until the rings get seated.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[brakeman22]

Okay boy! She's in, I just finished cranking for a solid minute and the oil light stayed out. I noticed that my fuel pump wasn't kicking in, when I turned the key to the "on" position. I crawled under and checked for power and I have 12V to the fuel pump, so I'm guessing the fuel pump is frozen up. I'm wondering if I can try the reverse polarity trick to try and free it up while the pump is in the car or do I have to take it out?

I'm getting pumped, guys. It's actually going really smooth so far.

[brakeman22]

Okay, so some good news some bad news.

She started up and we were in the middle of the first break in running it at 2500 for 20 minutes. It seemed like it was running really hot and then the oil pressure light came on at around 10 minutes. It seems like there was a leak, but I can't find where. I had some drips on the drivers side, but the only place that looks moist is the where the rear (rear of vehicle) heat exchangers bolt to the head. The bottom of the heat exchanger looked moist. I pulled the oil bath air cleaner and it hadn't spilled or leaked from there, I'm probably going to have to pull the tin and see if I can see where it's coming from.

Edit to add: The oil level is still full, so I think that might have been coming from a spill when my brother was oiling the valve train.

Second question. Since I have to run it immediately at 2500 to break in the cam, do I just leave it timed statically or should I try and adjust the timing first?


Thanks for any help guys.

Chad

[Donnie strickland]

First we need to find out why the oil light came on. Either there's a blockage or the engine got way too hot, but neither is good...sorry, that's not much help, but I would say first check your timing with a light while it's running.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[brakeman22]

I'm thinking it got really hot, Donnie. I think I had the timing set retarded. I'm going to let it cool down overnight and check for pressure in the morning. How should I go about cranking for pressure? If I pull the center coil plug and the distributor trigger connection should that be safe to crank? It should go out within 30 seconds if there is pressure, right?

[Donnie strickland]

Yes, crank it and see if the light goes out. Then connect a timing light and check your advance.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[Mike Fisher]

Cars run hottest when standing still. 2500 rpm for 20 minutes standing still sounds bad to me. Drive it at 2500 etc rpm instead.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[Donnie strickland]

[brakeman22]

So this morning I checked valves. All were pretty tight. I adjusted them, reset the timing statically, pulled the coil wire of the dizzy and the trigger points connection of the dizzy and cranked for oil pressure. About 30 seconds in, the light went out. I reconnected everything and started it up and about 2 minutes in the light came on again.

I did some digging and here's what I have come up with. I think a 30mm oil pump was installed. I think that's too much pump for a stocker so I think it's pulling the sump dry and/or pressurizing the oil too much and making it hotter. Thoughts on this?

Thanks again for your help guys. What a learning process this has been!

Chad

[Donnie strickland]

Are you sure a 30mm pump was installed? Find out if at all possible.

Check your pressure relief valve. The oil may be bypassing the cooler and getting dumped back into the sump, which would account for the overheating. Too much oil pressure can cause this also.
If the light came on in only two minutes, something's definitely wrong.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[Clatter]

try maybe switching out the oil pressure sender?

new motors always run/smell hot as they break in.

if you are indeed not oiling, you want to get it back apart before you hurt anything.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Bobnotch]

[brakeman22]

I'm gonna get a mechanical oil pressure gauge just so I can see exactly what the pressures are in real time. I checked with Gary and it was for sure a 30mm pump he went with. I ended up going with 20/50 because I couldn't find the 10/30 Valvoline VR1 anywhere, so the thicker oil might be a contributing factor as well. Gary says a 30mm should be fine with this engine but through the search feature I've found a few different opinions. Do you guys think 30mm is too much pump?

I'm definitely going to drain and refill w/ 10/30 and just find a ZDDP additive and see if that helps. I'm also going to have to check those cooling flaps. They were moving freely when I put the upper tin on, but I'll check them again. Does a hair dryer put out enough heat to check the thermostat function? I boiled it in the bracket when I disassembled the engine and it was functioning at that time and Gary said he checked it out as well but I think I'll test it again.

Thanks guys!
Chad

[Donnie strickland]