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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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MrBusCo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry if this has been covered, I couldn't seem to find it.

Working on a split bus:

I want to put a Bug IRS transaxle conversion. I'm getting my head wrapped around the options. I'm looking at the Wolfgang kit here: https://www.wolfgangint.com/store/product/early-bus-irs-conversion-2501102/

I am not sure I want to buy the kit though... Can anyone tell me what the specs are on the axles in the wolfgang kit? The spline count and length?
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhh, so close. Now that I've broken in the engine and done some final adjustments I pulled it off the jack stands at final weight with exhaust, engine, trans, etc. The... uh, back will probably have to come up unless I want a beat to hell muffler, I thought this sidewinder kit would sit higher.

Anyways, I wish I had bought the adjustable spring plates! Are there any tricks to pulling these off easily? It was a real bear getting my back wheels and rotors on.

I think I need close to 2" higher in the rear to drive safe. How many notches would that translate to, you pros out there.

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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

electronictofu wrote:
Are there any tricks to pulling these off easily? It was a real bear getting my back wheels and rotors on.

I think I need close to 2" higher in the rear to drive safe. How many notches would that translate to, you pros out there.


I'm no pro, but after 25 years of driving my Bus lowered, I like the axles to have no camber in them at all, with wheels on the ground. Saves the axle spades and the tire tread. It also makes getting the wheels off and on much easier.

IMO, being too low just makes the drive too tense, sweating every speed bump and driveway sucks, takes away from the enjoyment, for me at least.

I was thinking you were really low when you posted pictures a while back, but didn't say anything as I thought you might want to go that low.

I set my un-adjustable spring plates to run parallel with the frame, or slightly sloping down to the rear. This gives me a much sportier feel in the turns, and has enough clearance in case something is in the road. My springplate is perfectly parallel to the torsion housing.

Looking great though, electronictofu.

EDIT: Based on your last picture, I would go one or two notches, pointing the rear most portion of the plate, towards the ground.

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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a question for you guys.....can't find any info on it.

I just got done slamming my bus. The trans cradle is 3/8 of an inch from the ground, and the front of the bus is lowered enough to make everything level. I don't have exact measurements...but the front bumper guards are around 2 inches from the ground.

The bus is significantly harder to turn left and right now. Does anyone have any ideas? I can understand if lowering a bus that much makes it harder to turn, but it feels like it's too hard.

New beam, new tires (155/50/14 I believe), new drag link, new narrowed tie rods, I greased the spindles/beam/center pin, I lubed the steering box, my alignment is fine...can't think of anything else at the moment.

I've heard of people notching things when going this low, but I can't find anything rubbing.

Am I overlooking something?
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JoelH
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the tie rods hitting the body? I've seen people notch the body to clear those before.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoelH wrote:
Are the tie rods hitting the body? I've seen people notch the body to clear those before.


I haven't noticed it, but i'll check again.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm considering raising the front end of my single cab up very slightly to allow for some front tires with a little more side wall than the bald 165/45s that are currently on the truck - and to help navigate the increasingly pot holed roads here in Central Illinois (might be going to a 194/45 up front and 205/50 in the rear)...

The truck has a narrowed, adjustable beam and drop spindles on it - and my initial plan was just to adjust the beam up a tooth or two. But - looking at the beam, from underneath, I'm confused. I think it may already be at it's "highest" setting. Here's my logic:

The adjusters for the beam tubes are on the back side of the beam (facing towards the back of the truck with the beam is in place) - and are currently in the lowest position (closest to the ground) on the beam. If I loosen the adjusters and move them up (towards the floor of the truck) a tooth, won't this lower the truck rather than raise it?

I've laid underneath it and talked myself through it so many times, I'm not sure anymore. Help!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^You are correct in your thinking. It sounds like you are already in the highest position.^^^
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easy e
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've got dropped or flipped spindles... maybe get a less agressive drop on the spindles & then you can lower it with the beam adjusters.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies - not the answer I was hoping for... but what I suspected. It's always good to have someone else check my "work." This site is awesome for that! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've searched and have found a little info on the process of adapting e brake cables in a straight axle configuration. Does anyone have a step by step process to go about this? Maybe it's not difficult, I just can't wrap my head around it right now.

thanks guys
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

easy e wrote:
If you've got dropped or flipped spindles... maybe get a less agressive drop on the spindles & then you can lower it with the beam adjusters.


Most "flipped" spindles only offer a 3.5" drop. If you wanted more or less you would need cut and welded spindles.

You may be able to lengthen the existing slots in your beam. But you should also lengthen the teeth for the adjuster.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoelH wrote:
I've searched and have found a little info on the process of adapting e brake cables in a straight axle configuration. Does anyone have a step by step process to go about this? Maybe it's not difficult, I just can't wrap my head around it right now.

thanks guys


They sell kits at Wagenswest or you can find the mod in one of the earlier pages of this thread. The kit is $22 and Nate is good people, so buy a set from him. Wink

http://www.wagenswest.com/partstore/index.php/bus-...lates.html
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cru62 wrote:
easy e wrote:
If you've got dropped or flipped spindles... maybe get a less agressive drop on the spindles & then you can lower it with the beam adjusters.


Most "flipped" spindles only offer a 3.5" drop. If you wanted more or less you would need cut and welded spindles.

You may be able to lengthen the existing slots in your beam. But you should also lengthen the teeth for the adjuster.
The upper beam adjuster (on mine anyway)... interferes with the heater cable tubes on one end of adjustment limit... and the front shift rod at the other limit of adjustment. Lengthening slot would exacerbate interference issues. Being able to get a wrench on the bolt/nut would get tricky too.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 9:22 pm    Post subject: lowering 67 bus Reply with quote

Can I use a 67 bug transmission to lower a 67 bus?
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: lowering 67 bus Reply with quote

josetorres3908 wrote:
Can I use a 67 bug transmission to lower a 67 bus?


Yes.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have heard differing thoughts so i am hoping to get a definitive answer....
can i run the new wide five cosmicswith my 2" beam, or will it be necessary to narrow to 4"?
Thanks
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Running Gear Choices for a 1966 Samba Reply with quote

Ok so I am starting a project that i meant to start about 10 years ago but there's no time like the present!

So i have a shell of a 66 21 window samba with original running gear, a 1600 twin port engine and a few other bits. My plan is to get the running gear sorted first so i can move the thing and then get the rest sorted.

My thoughts are :-

front end: standard torsion beam but with leaves removed and red 9 design coil over shock kit fitted. Then fit CSP front brake kit with a dual circuit upgrade. Standard steel wheels but lowered maybe a couple of inches.

rear end: Bus Boys IRS suspension conversion kit with a Beetle IRS freeway flier gearbox and a 1600 TES green engine with CSP rear brake kit. I understand i need some bits to make this work (CV joints and control arm) but does the above make sense? Is there welding work required for the above or is is all just bolt on. Does anyone have better ideas or complaints about any of the above? scuse my ignorance
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any one just do flipped spindles ?? And how was the ride and is it some difficult to do ?
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of people do just flipped spindles up front. The ride is great. No bumping or rubbing, at least for me. I did the swap myself in a couple of hours with instructions feom wagenswest and/or widefive.
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