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MrBusCo Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007 Posts: 1561 Location: stoughton, WI
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:31 am Post subject: |
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Sorry if this has been covered, I couldn't seem to find it.
Working on a split bus:
I want to put a Bug IRS transaxle conversion. I'm getting my head wrapped around the options. I'm looking at the Wolfgang kit here: https://www.wolfgangint.com/store/product/early-bus-irs-conversion-2501102/
I am not sure I want to buy the kit though... Can anyone tell me what the specs are on the axles in the wolfgang kit? The spline count and length? _________________ Josh The Bus Guy formerly known as JOGR
BlazeCutUSA.com MrBusCo.com |
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 918 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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Ahhhh, so close. Now that I've broken in the engine and done some final adjustments I pulled it off the jack stands at final weight with exhaust, engine, trans, etc. The... uh, back will probably have to come up unless I want a beat to hell muffler, I thought this sidewinder kit would sit higher.
Anyways, I wish I had bought the adjustable spring plates! Are there any tricks to pulling these off easily? It was a real bear getting my back wheels and rotors on.
I think I need close to 2" higher in the rear to drive safe. How many notches would that translate to, you pros out there.
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Split 66' Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2010 Posts: 1248 Location: Bay Area, California
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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electronictofu wrote: |
Are there any tricks to pulling these off easily? It was a real bear getting my back wheels and rotors on.
I think I need close to 2" higher in the rear to drive safe. How many notches would that translate to, you pros out there.
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I'm no pro, but after 25 years of driving my Bus lowered, I like the axles to have no camber in them at all, with wheels on the ground. Saves the axle spades and the tire tread. It also makes getting the wheels off and on much easier.
IMO, being too low just makes the drive too tense, sweating every speed bump and driveway sucks, takes away from the enjoyment, for me at least.
I was thinking you were really low when you posted pictures a while back, but didn't say anything as I thought you might want to go that low.
I set my un-adjustable spring plates to run parallel with the frame, or slightly sloping down to the rear. This gives me a much sportier feel in the turns, and has enough clearance in case something is in the road. My springplate is perfectly parallel to the torsion housing.
Looking great though, electronictofu.
EDIT: Based on your last picture, I would go one or two notches, pointing the rear most portion of the plate, towards the ground.
_________________ "OG = Original German" -- TheSamba.com dictionary |
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glifahrenheitcameron Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2013 Posts: 54 Location: United States
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Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:53 am Post subject: |
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Got a question for you guys.....can't find any info on it.
I just got done slamming my bus. The trans cradle is 3/8 of an inch from the ground, and the front of the bus is lowered enough to make everything level. I don't have exact measurements...but the front bumper guards are around 2 inches from the ground.
The bus is significantly harder to turn left and right now. Does anyone have any ideas? I can understand if lowering a bus that much makes it harder to turn, but it feels like it's too hard.
New beam, new tires (155/50/14 I believe), new drag link, new narrowed tie rods, I greased the spindles/beam/center pin, I lubed the steering box, my alignment is fine...can't think of anything else at the moment.
I've heard of people notching things when going this low, but I can't find anything rubbing.
Am I overlooking something? |
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JoelH Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2003 Posts: 1312 Location: North Dakota
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glifahrenheitcameron Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2013 Posts: 54 Location: United States
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Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:16 am Post subject: |
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JoelH wrote: |
Are the tie rods hitting the body? I've seen people notch the body to clear those before. |
I haven't noticed it, but i'll check again. |
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nynone4 Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2004 Posts: 299 Location: Central Illinois
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:30 am Post subject: |
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I'm considering raising the front end of my single cab up very slightly to allow for some front tires with a little more side wall than the bald 165/45s that are currently on the truck - and to help navigate the increasingly pot holed roads here in Central Illinois (might be going to a 194/45 up front and 205/50 in the rear)...
The truck has a narrowed, adjustable beam and drop spindles on it - and my initial plan was just to adjust the beam up a tooth or two. But - looking at the beam, from underneath, I'm confused. I think it may already be at it's "highest" setting. Here's my logic:
The adjusters for the beam tubes are on the back side of the beam (facing towards the back of the truck with the beam is in place) - and are currently in the lowest position (closest to the ground) on the beam. If I loosen the adjusters and move them up (towards the floor of the truck) a tooth, won't this lower the truck rather than raise it?
I've laid underneath it and talked myself through it so many times, I'm not sure anymore. Help! _________________ >>Looking for any and all Vic Williams, Peoria Illinois dealership items.<< |
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G-wood Todd Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2005 Posts: 1047 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:50 am Post subject: |
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^^^You are correct in your thinking. It sounds like you are already in the highest position.^^^ _________________ and take the kids for instance "Are we going in the Volkswagen bus?" and they say "Yay!" and clap their hands and if it's a glorious day you can slide the sunroof back and let a little of the glory in and all of a sudden, it stops looking funny.
-Volkswagen ad |
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easy e Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2008 Posts: 3930 Location: 1 hr north of Santa Barbara
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nynone4 Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2004 Posts: 299 Location: Central Illinois
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies - not the answer I was hoping for... but what I suspected. It's always good to have someone else check my "work." This site is awesome for that! _________________ >>Looking for any and all Vic Williams, Peoria Illinois dealership items.<< |
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JoelH Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2003 Posts: 1312 Location: North Dakota
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cru62 Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2002 Posts: 4117 Location: Margaritaville.....24/7
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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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easy e wrote: |
If you've got dropped or flipped spindles... maybe get a less agressive drop on the spindles & then you can lower it with the beam adjusters. |
Most "flipped" spindles only offer a 3.5" drop. If you wanted more or less you would need cut and welded spindles.
You may be able to lengthen the existing slots in your beam. But you should also lengthen the teeth for the adjuster. _________________ "My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon
Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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DubStyle SBS Hit Squad
Joined: July 26, 2003 Posts: 6250 Location: SBS headquarters: Missery
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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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JoelH wrote: |
I've searched and have found a little info on the process of adapting e brake cables in a straight axle configuration. Does anyone have a step by step process to go about this? Maybe it's not difficult, I just can't wrap my head around it right now.
thanks guys |
They sell kits at Wagenswest or you can find the mod in one of the earlier pages of this thread. The kit is $22 and Nate is good people, so buy a set from him.
http://www.wagenswest.com/partstore/index.php/bus-...lates.html _________________ Anthony
SBS #1
SBS #1 on FB
"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club" |
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easy e Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2008 Posts: 3930 Location: 1 hr north of Santa Barbara
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Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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cru62 wrote: |
easy e wrote: |
If you've got dropped or flipped spindles... maybe get a less agressive drop on the spindles & then you can lower it with the beam adjusters. |
Most "flipped" spindles only offer a 3.5" drop. If you wanted more or less you would need cut and welded spindles.
You may be able to lengthen the existing slots in your beam. But you should also lengthen the teeth for the adjuster. |
The upper beam adjuster (on mine anyway)... interferes with the heater cable tubes on one end of adjustment limit... and the front shift rod at the other limit of adjustment. Lengthening slot would exacerbate interference issues. Being able to get a wrench on the bolt/nut would get tricky too. _________________ aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List |
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josetorres3908 Samba Member
Joined: November 15, 2009 Posts: 4 Location: dallas tx
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 9:22 pm Post subject: lowering 67 bus |
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Can I use a 67 bug transmission to lower a 67 bus? |
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Split 66' Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2010 Posts: 1248 Location: Bay Area, California
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: lowering 67 bus |
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josetorres3908 wrote: |
Can I use a 67 bug transmission to lower a 67 bus? |
Yes. _________________ "OG = Original German" -- TheSamba.com dictionary |
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Colorado Bulli Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2012 Posts: 106 Location: Western Slope, Colorado
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Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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i have heard differing thoughts so i am hoping to get a definitive answer....
can i run the new wide five cosmicswith my 2" beam, or will it be necessary to narrow to 4"?
Thanks _________________ 1956 Standard
1964 Beetle |
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pastyrich Samba Member
Joined: August 22, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Bournemouth
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Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 11:54 am Post subject: Running Gear Choices for a 1966 Samba |
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Ok so I am starting a project that i meant to start about 10 years ago but there's no time like the present!
So i have a shell of a 66 21 window samba with original running gear, a 1600 twin port engine and a few other bits. My plan is to get the running gear sorted first so i can move the thing and then get the rest sorted.
My thoughts are :-
front end: standard torsion beam but with leaves removed and red 9 design coil over shock kit fitted. Then fit CSP front brake kit with a dual circuit upgrade. Standard steel wheels but lowered maybe a couple of inches.
rear end: Bus Boys IRS suspension conversion kit with a Beetle IRS freeway flier gearbox and a 1600 TES green engine with CSP rear brake kit. I understand i need some bits to make this work (CV joints and control arm) but does the above make sense? Is there welding work required for the above or is is all just bolt on. Does anyone have better ideas or complaints about any of the above? scuse my ignorance |
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nvmipis1 Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2012 Posts: 246 Location: riverside , ca.
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 11:38 am Post subject: |
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Any one just do flipped spindles ?? And how was the ride and is it some difficult to do ? |
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Zebilmnc Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2014 Posts: 70 Location: Advance, NC
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Lots of people do just flipped spindles up front. The ride is great. No bumping or rubbing, at least for me. I did the swap myself in a couple of hours with instructions feom wagenswest and/or widefive. |
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