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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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joescoolcustoms wrote: |
Now is the chance to widen the torsion housing and the wheel track without going to obscenely widened trailing arms. will also lessen the stress on the bushings that widened arms can produce. |
I don't want to widen the track any more than the 3x3 already do. I need to keep the wheels located within the body to some extent to keep with the style.
The front beam is 5" over now and with 4 x 1.5's that makes me 8" over stock. This matches with the 3x3 rears and the different offsets in the Method Race Wheels.
The other issue with widening the torsion is that the smaller the arms the less the travel unless I move a heap of stuff around.
All that being said I did widen it a little as my rear arms will be made to suit anyway meanings I can reduce leverage on the outside area but decreasing the distance. |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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Iguana wrote: |
joescoolcustoms wrote: |
Now is the chance to widen the torsion housing and the wheel track without going to obscenely widened trailing arms. will also lessen the stress on the bushings that widened arms can produce. |
I don't want to widen the track any more than the 3x3 already do. I need to keep the wheels located within the body to some extent to keep with the style.
The front beam is 5" over now and with 4 x 1.5's that makes me 8" over stock. This matches with the 3x3 rears and the different offsets in the Method Race Wheels.
The other issue with widening the torsion is that the smaller the arms the less the travel unless I move a heap of stuff around.
All that being said I did widen it a little as my rear arms will be made to suit anyway meanings I can reduce leverage on the outside area but decreasing the distance. |
Close to what I was speaking of. Use a 0 X 3 arm, but push the torsion housing out 3 inches per side. It will help eliminate the awkward leverage arm the 3 additional inches wider cause for better control over the suspension, and still get the same wheel travel. Most likely would need to build your own arms. Mine are 0 X 1 1/2. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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joescoolcustoms wrote: |
Iguana wrote: |
joescoolcustoms wrote: |
Now is the chance to widen the torsion housing and the wheel track without going to obscenely widened trailing arms. will also lessen the stress on the bushings that widened arms can produce. |
I don't want to widen the track any more than the 3x3 already do. I need to keep the wheels located within the body to some extent to keep with the style.
The front beam is 5" over now and with 4 x 1.5's that makes me 8" over stock. This matches with the 3x3 rears and the different offsets in the Method Race Wheels.
The other issue with widening the torsion is that the smaller the arms the less the travel unless I move a heap of stuff around.
All that being said I did widen it a little as my rear arms will be made to suit anyway meanings I can reduce leverage on the outside area but decreasing the distance. |
Close to what I was speaking of. Use a 0 X 3 arm, but push the torsion housing out 3 inches per side. It will help eliminate the awkward leverage arm the 3 additional inches wider cause for better control over the suspension, and still get the same wheel travel. Most likely would need to build your own arms. Mine are 0 X 1 1/2. |
If I made 0 x 3 ( 0 out and 3 back ) I would have real issues with the coil over mounting and clearing bigger wheels dependent on offset. |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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Will you be running Micro Stubs, or conventional?
All the conventional bearing custom arms I have had,(1 X 1, 1 X 2, 3 X 3, 5 X 5) the lower shock mount was positioned right over the inner bearing. Which lines up very close to the spring plate and is the inner offset limiting factor on wheels. So the width of the arm would not have an effect on the lower shock location.
But a Micro Stub is a totally different design. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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Rear arms will be custom Micro Stubs. After all the issues I had with the Empi CRAP I don't do type 1 anymore and the cars I do have with them are all getting new arms.
Now the Tube is in the fun has begun ..
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:29 am Post subject: |
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So with the material in and the plan confirmed it was time to get down to making the chassis for the Baja Edition. The majority was made from 1 1/2" x 0.095 walled DOM 1020 grade with a few select pieces made from 0.120 wall.
The design as simple enough get full travel with 2.5 shocks and keep it all under the DualSports Body.
Got to spend a bit of time playing with the bender.
Front shock hoops are 158 degrees if anyone wants to make a set
The primary upper and lowers are sleeved onto the beam and front section. I do this but chamfering the 1 1/2" tube and then making a sleeve from 1 3/4" cut on the same angle / notched. When they are installed I run a root pass on the 1 1/2" tube and then slide the 1 3/4" over the outside and tig it in place as well.
Doing this reduces the stress point and gives you two separate welded about 1/4" apart.
The end that is not going onto the other tube etc is notched at 90 degrees so that the weld sleeve is not a straight shear,
Everything is then cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again. Fit and checked and checked
Once I am happy with the fit it is time to get welding. My original plan to get my mate to weld it out didn't work out as he is crook as a dog and this build time line waits for no man. With that sorted I spent a few hours running some beads and getting my heat issues sorted and set to welding it out.
Once the roots were done I could push the sleeves down and burn them in as well. I had to get the sequence correct.
Anyway far from perfect but I am sure by the time I finish welding it out they will get better.
Hope to have her on wheels by the end of the weekend so I can do steering geometry and start buttoning up. |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 10:42 pm Post subject: |
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with the chssis underway it was time to look at shock towers and getting the most out of the setup. I had heard a lot of interesting numbers quoted but from the outset I was going to be happy with anything over 12". With that in mind I pulled out the 4" Foddrill Arms and pressed in the bushings to the carriers. I have gone with King Kong Stubs and matched them to the Jamar Pro X 4 pot callipers.
Pressing the bushings into the spindles I was very impressed with the fit and finish, Foddrill had done a great job and they all went together well.
Once done I hung one side and started playing with shock placement.
I had the body on and off many times and was very happy to have a body I could use for alignment before we pickup the real Kit next week.
Fast forward way to many hours and the chassis is welded out and ready to move to the next stage. I was lucky enough to have my custom weld positioner on hand to let me flip it around and avoid any bad out of position stuff.
With that done it was onto the lift for the next phase which will be getting it on wheel, getting steering mounted, getting rear support sorted, getting shocks mounted and then laying out the additional braceing before pulling it all apart again to weld out to put it back together again to keep moving.
The engine and transmission combo I will be using is a SubaruGears 5 Speed Transmission mated to a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine. As I don't actually have my actual engine and trans yet I have managed to get a setup engine and mated it togeather. With the SubaruGears rear mount the point of balance is spot on and with a SteelArt Creations 3" shorter sump there is plenty of clearance.
Talking of sumps Paul will be here next week to join the build but just cause he aint here yet don't mean he ain't working. Like all good buggy guys he just started making the sumps for the car in the few days before he fly's out.
Sweet ... |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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It was a pretty big weekend with lots of thinking, assembly and testing. Of course with the race around 3 weeks I would have liked to get a lot more done than I did and I know I am going to be pulling it down a few more times yet before it is time to bolt it up finally.
I managed to get the wheels on front and rear and start cycling the suspension to see what hits what and what I need to take into account when I add in the rest of the support bars.
I should be picking up the DualSports Kit from Meyers Manx this wee so until then I just keep using my other body.
Now I had the body on I also started to looking at mounting the PRP front seats. I was lucky enough to get some spare frames so I could move them around without any chance of damaging them.
The Fortin 2.0 Steering rack was also put in place so I can begin to design a mount. To start with I made an adjustable setup so I can get it in the best position to limit bump steer.
Then I pulled it apart a few more times and hope to have the engine and trans mounted this week along with some more tube work done. |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:50 am Post subject: |
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wythac Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2004 Posts: 2791
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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Good thing you took pictures, it will likely be the last time you see those parts of the car clean! |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:38 am Post subject: |
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With 20 Days to go the rest of the Build Team has arrived. After a team meeting someone decided we should do Race Prep on the Meyers Tow'd to get it out the way before we finished off the Baja Edition.
I am not exactly sure WTF Happened next but as you can see from the below video the build of Baja Edition just took on a few distractions. |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:42 am Post subject: |
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Tom_Kathleen Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2004 Posts: 918 Location: Vernon, CT
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 8:57 am Post subject: |
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Aussi Aussi Aussi!!! Brad you are in trouble now with that crew in your shop. LOL Tom _________________ Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:01 am Post subject: |
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Well we are into it now, the boys arrived from Australia and before they had a chance to settle in we headed over to Meyers Manx to pickup the Manxter DualSport Kit, Baja Edition.
The Baja Edition starts life as a Normal DualSports Manxter and then gets an upgraded cage ( 1 1/2" 1020 DOM 0.120 wall ) and Tiw Welded with different rear shock mounts to suit the 2.5 Coil Overs. The rest ofd the modifications happen during assembly with additional internal supports and base plates.
The Kit like all Meyers Manx Kits comes complete with all the fasteners
Winnie goes through the kit and checks everything off the list.
The colour is a nice Orange that Winnie had made.
With all of it checked off we load her up and head back to teh shop.
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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Tic Toc goes the race clock ...
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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It has been together and apart many times.
We are hopeful of getting some paint on the chassis by end of the week and begin final assembly.
At the moment the Arclight CNC Plasma is going most of the day as we pump out all the stuff we need to keep welding out on the two cars.
Andrew got the short straw and got to cut the new fiberglass to suit the coil overs. With the 2.5's Sonny from Down South Motorsports setup for us we need a bit more room than standard.
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ellobo Samba Member
Joined: December 18, 2004 Posts: 286 Location: O.C. California
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Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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Brad... Fiberglass butcher... NOOOO. |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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ellobo wrote: |
Brad... Fiberglass butcher... NOOOO. |
hehe it was Andrew actually |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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With the body cut and fitted we could get down to setting up the steering and front end. We are using a set of 4" over front arms and spindles from foddrill, 4 pot front calipers and hubs from Jamar Performance, 10" 2.5 Piggy Backs built by DownSouth Motorsports and a Fortin 2.0 Buggy Power Rack.
The 2.5 shocks will sit on the inside mount as we need to keep them under the body lines. The steering with run Rod ends in double shear on the outer and inner on custom tie rods.
With that all setup we could do full cycle and steering and work on front end braces.
Once happy we added them in
Inside the seat mounts were added, these are custom units to work with the seats we have from PRP and also tie into the floor and be low profile to get us down as low as possible.
Now is time to start welding out. Due to the cage design we need to weld out the primary before we add more additional bracing.
Luckily we can pull it out and roll it around to get into an easy weld position.
We also added some more rear end braces after clocking the box's to where we liked.
Then Paul got to welding, welding and more welding. We decided to Tig weld the entire thing and luckily for me Paul is able to work in places I could never fit.
We then pulled the body again and flipped it over.
Weld weld and more weld
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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We mounted the Foddrill 2.0 Buggy Rack on the beam using the adjustable bracket we made. This let us position it in the best location for bump steer. Then using a straight edge and markers we managed to get 1/4" at 4' variation through full travel (14") so we are pretty happy with that.
We also finished off the knuckles and get them welded in.
With knuckles in the floor measurements could be taken.
[img]http://www.meyersmanx.info/ManxInfoGallery/var/resizes/Manxter-Dual-Sports-Pictures/Manxter-Dual-Sports-Builds/Manxter-DualSport-%23-DS-031/Week2/IMG_0724.JPG?[/img]
Soon it would be looking like a buggy .. |
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