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SixStringMadMan Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2011 Posts: 263 Location: Roseville, CA
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 6:23 am Post subject: |
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Debating painting the front calipers, seems like a good idea to prevent rust. What color should I use VHT black, silver, or red?
Also have 2 new brembo rotors for the front. Should paint those as well? _________________ 1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm |
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Skoolieman Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2011 Posts: 573 Location: Chattanooga TN
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Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:35 am Post subject: |
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You can paint the calipers if you want to, I would use silver to most easily spot leaks and for the most factory look. For the calipers i am assuming you mean just the center hub? I wouldn't bother, you wont see them and they will just surface rust a little bit. Use anti seize compound on the mating surface.
My stupid question: I have a Bosch 205q distributor with functioning dual vacuum canister on my 1600dp. I am struggling with the points-they keep getting pitted and corroded to the point that it actually kept me off the road last weekend. I was looking around online and found there are specific condensers and points for each Bosch distributor. Do you think this could be the problem or am I just a victim of crappy aftermarket parts...
BTW I have them gapped properly and my dwell is around 46 degrees. _________________ '69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:45 am Post subject: |
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Skoolieman wrote: |
You can paint the calipers if you want to, I would use silver to most easily spot leaks and for the most factory look. For the calipers i am assuming you mean just the center hub? I wouldn't bother, you wont see them and they will just surface rust a little bit. Use anti seize compound on the mating surface.
My stupid question: I have a Bosch 205q distributor with functioning dual vacuum canister on my 1600dp. I am struggling with the points-they keep getting pitted and corroded to the point that it actually kept me off the road last weekend. I was looking around online and found there are specific condensers and points for each Bosch distributor. Do you think this could be the problem or am I just a victim of crappy aftermarket parts...
BTW I have them gapped properly and my dwell is around 46 degrees. |
Your points will burn is your condenser is bad or poorly matched to your coil. The points will also burn if you have bad wires or spark plugs, including plugs that are gapped too wide. Can you move the rotor side to side? If the bushings are worn and there is slop where there shouldn't be that will throw everything in the dizzy out of whack also potentially burning up the points. |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12688 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:48 am Post subject: |
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Pitting points could be a bad condenser, but I've never found the "wrong" condenser to be a problem when I've put them on other folks' cars in emergencies.
Poor quality points might be another problem. Check the recent "bosch points" thread for info why, most of it is above my typing level on my phone... If you bought all your points/condensers at the same time, there might have been a bad run of them. A bad coil could be suspect too. What's the primary and secondary resistance? Do you have the ground strap inside the distributor soldered on? And are you using good quality plugs/wires?
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:50 am Post subject: |
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FWIW I never change a condenser unless I am having a problem with the points or the condenser is so old it is literally falling apart. I have seen way more problems with new condensers than even decade old used condensers. |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12688 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
FWIW I never change a condenser unless I am having a problem with the points or the condenser is so old it is literally falling apart. I have seen way more problems with new condensers than even decade old used condensers. |
And the #1 reason I replace them is pinched and frayed (dangerous) wires due to bad installation. _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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I see sweet pictures people take of their factory sticker showing the paint code and color. Where is this sticker located on the bus? I have a 1978 bay. Did late bays even come with this sticker? I'd really really like to see it. lol _________________ -Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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sixer Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2014 Posts: 88 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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I just filled up the bus with fuel. Okay, I overfilled it a little bit. Drove home.
Now there is fuel dripping out of the fuel vent line behind the spare tire - new line, but probably needs to be replaced with a better fitting one.
Is this normal or should I be concerned? Obviously any fuel dripping is a fire hazard, but is this just occurring because I overfilled the tank? _________________ 1976 Transporter, Stock 2.0L
http://instagram.com/sixer.bus/ |
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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sixer wrote: |
I just filled up the bus with fuel. Okay, I overfilled it a little bit. Drove home.
Now there is fuel dripping out of the fuel vent line behind the spare tire - new line, but probably needs to be replaced with a better fitting one.
Is this normal or should I be concerned? Obviously any fuel dripping is a fire hazard, but is this just occurring because I overfilled the tank? |
How long has it been since that's been changed? If I were you I'd just change it and see if that makes a difference. _________________ -Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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sixer wrote: |
I just filled up the bus with fuel. Okay, I overfilled it a little bit. Drove home.
Now there is fuel dripping out of the fuel vent line behind the spare tire - new line, but probably needs to be replaced with a better fitting one.
Is this normal or should I be concerned? Obviously any fuel dripping is a fire hazard, but is this just occurring because I overfilled the tank? |
I used 7mm fuel line and clamped both ends. 5/16" will do also with clamps. |
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SixStringMadMan Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2011 Posts: 263 Location: Roseville, CA
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Ian Samba Moderator
Joined: August 28, 2002 Posts: 4930 Location: 713
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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I'm wondering if the shift rod is supposed to be straight until the bend for the rear shift coupler. This shift rod is rubbing on a cross member under the bus, and I noticed a little bend. Sorry for the crap picture, the bend is underneath my straight edge.
_________________ All your Buses are belong to us.
Love and good roads!
IN LOVING MEMORY OF ROB CRESS 1968-2012 |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like the tranny was allowed to hang down when engine was pulled. Pretty sure it is supposed to be straight. What year Bus? _________________ '72 Elm Green Deluxe |
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Ian Samba Moderator
Joined: August 28, 2002 Posts: 4930 Location: 713
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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73 _________________ All your Buses are belong to us.
Love and good roads!
IN LOVING MEMORY OF ROB CRESS 1968-2012 |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, that's bent, I've seen some where the end was welded on offset but the tube is always straight. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Rbridges Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Kansas
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Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 12:54 pm Post subject: Looking for information on this particular High Top bay |
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saw this bus today and looking for more information on that particular high top early bay window bus. Anyone have any information conversion or the build company that would of done this exact bus.
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crushie Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2011 Posts: 878 Location: alberta
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Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Can someone tell me, which battery does the interior rear camper ceiling lamp use? The main or the aux battery?
You pull the knob out from the dash but control the lamp through the lamp housing switch. _________________ 1974 VW Combi 1800 Auto. Weber 32/36 |
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kkjellquist Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2013 Posts: 752 Location: Asheville, NC
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Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 4:09 am Post subject: |
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Should the steering drag link have any play at all? I can twist mine a bit and I see some wiggle at the knuckles, but the bar itself moves immediately when turning the wheel. _________________ 1977 Sage Green Deluxe Campmobile - "Turtel"
(1978 2L FI, Pertronix, Hydraulic Lifters)
Turtel - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561195
Pisgah Bus Rally - New Year's Day
http://pisgahbusrally.blogspot.com/ |
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