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fix for broken tabs on instrument cluster housing?
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jwendorf
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:42 am    Post subject: fix for broken tabs on instrument cluster housing? Reply with quote

The left rear tab on my instrument cluster is missing (probably broken off by the PO), the one that screws to the dashboard and has a piece that the cluster cover latches. Because of this missing tab both the cluster and cluster cover move around and rattle a bit when driving.

I'm guessing it is common for one or both of the tabs to be broken. Outside of replacing the instrument cluster housing has anyone fashioned a fix for this problem?

I've search around but did not find any threads addressing this specific problem.

Thanks.

'89 Carat
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syncromike
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: fix for broken tabs on instrument cluster housing? Reply with quote

jwendorf wrote:
The left rear tab on my instrument cluster is missing (probably broken off by the PO), the one that screws to the dashboard and has a piece that the cluster cover latches. Because of this missing tab both the cluster and cluster cover move around and rattle a bit when driving.

I'm guessing it is common for one or both of the tabs to be broken. Outside of replacing the instrument cluster housing has anyone fashioned a fix for this problem?

I've search around but did not find any threads addressing this specific problem.

Thanks.

'89 Carat


I didn't have the tab break where the cover attaches, but 3 of the 4 points where screws secure the cluster to the dashboard were brittle and crumbled away. I hand-formed new tabs out of JB weld Qwik-Plastic and let them cure for a day and then drilled holes for the screws.

I've been happy with the fix, it's held up for almost a year now. There's a little elasticity in the JB Weld so it seems to handle vibrations well, which I was worried road vibrations would crack the tabs right off again. It would be a little more difficult to mold a new tab that the cover would latch to, but probably worth a shot.
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seabright_sc
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This happened to me a few years back and I just used a couple of self tapping screws adjacent to the originals. Seems to be fine.
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rlamb
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happened here. I just got some washers that fit the securing screw, and I dremeled out some of each washer so it fit flush over the remaining plastic. Works fine now.
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tclark
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I formed new tabs with fiberglass patch, then jb weld
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes a big washer will do the job. These things started breaking as they were rolling the bodies down the assembly line so don't blame the PO.
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jwendorf
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The instrument cluster stays in place just fine with the three remaining stock screws holding it. The cluster cover on the other hand is loose and rattling because the left hand vertical tab that should be holding it in place is missing.

i think i will look for someone who might have the broken tab sitting around, or an otherwise destroyed instrument cluster. i could then mount that broken tab with the screw or double side tape. I could then remove the cover and still remove the cluster, just the top left tab would always remain mounted.

Anyone have an extra tab or buster instrument cluster housing floating that they don't need Very Happy
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most hobby shops sell styrene plastic in small sheets of varying thicknesses. That is what I used to fashion new tabs. Two layers, one (larger) that went under the remaining stub and the other (smaller) on top of that to replace the missing bit.

Those same shops also sell a glue (clear liquid in a brush-in-cap bottle) that works very well on the plastics VW used. It is a solvent so it actually welds the repair rather trying to adhere to it. Sometimes JBWeld has a hard time staying stuck to smooth plastic.
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use JB Weld, the paste kind, not the liquid one in tube

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randywebb
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:

the plastics VW used...


the dash console is styrene, then? or not?
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randiego
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My housing has missing attachment points for the speedometer (3 out of 4 screw holes are broken/gone).

Having the speedo firmly anchored to the housing is important to the operation of the trip odometer. (The button is on the housing, the odometer on the speedo).

I'm so tired of pulling the speedo out to get it attached right and get the trip odometer working again.

Are the housing frames themselves totally unavailable?
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teej
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This GW fix belongs here, to the OP:

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_search_results.php?search_phrase=instrument+cluster+mounting+tab

I used glue when I discovered this condition on our new-to-us van. Been working for 6 years now.

To the most recent poster, the JB weld fix looks like it might work to rebuild the corners to hold the speedo screws. On ours I used some industrial quality duct tape to reinforce the speedo attachment. Still working.
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randiego
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, mine is put together with the one screw and some duct tape as well.

It's maddening. I guess this thing is a junkyard holy grail? Laughing
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Dampcamper
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
Ahwahnee wrote:

the plastics VW used...


the dash console is styrene, then? or not?

As I recall it was ABS. I used some scrap ABS plastic (it is cheap, got some from the scrap bin at TAP Plastics) and ABS sewer pipe cement to fill mine, then drilled new holes. Plastics stores also sell a water-clear ABS cement but it runs all over the place, the sewer pipe cement is thicker and tends to stay in place.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what plastic VW used - but whatever it is, the solvent/glue made for styrene worked on it as well -- thus using styrene to effect a repair set up just fine.
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Corwyn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try this:

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=23954
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