64 11 window frame and floor replacement

[esde]

Now that I've got all of the pieces, I've been spending every spare second at the shop. Biggest improvement by far was getting the type34 out, and my other 65 in. It actually was a huge help today, having a straight, never hit bus to use for reference and measurements while working on the maushaus.

I snuck the 13 window along the back wall, and moved the 11 out where it had better light and room to work. Really nice to see it on wheels again, for the first time since replacing the frame! I used the better apron off the other bus, and found that I had to spread the frame rails a bit, and push the drivers side up a bit. Spent an hour or so walking between the busses checking measurements, and pushing stuff till I was happy with where I had the new d pillar positioned. Discovered at some point that this bus came with a later, shorter engine lid, and having those measurements mixed into my notes was causing confusion. Ahhhhhhh
Measure 500 times, cut once..

I welded the d pillar at the splice up top, but only tacked the bottom, till I'm sure everything is where it needs to be. Then I shoved it all together to see if it looked like a bus

And it does, but all of the seams are going to need tweaking to look good.
The side matched up nicely, just needs a little work to match up perfectly with the wheel well

I'm even thinking at this point it would be ok to let my wife see it, as it doesn't look so hopeless as before. When I brought it home I was worried that I'd have to live in it if she found out..

Next goal is to have it welded up by the end of the weekend. We'll see
SD

[esde]

Now that I've got all of the pieces, I've been spending every spare second at the shop. Biggest improvement by far was getting the type34 out, and my other 65 in. It actually was a huge help today, having a straight, never hit bus to use for reference and measurements while working on the maushaus.

I snuck the 13 window along the back wall, and moved the 11 out where it had better light and room to work. Really nice to see it on wheels again, for the first time since replacing the frame! I used the better apron off the other bus, and found that I had to spread the frame rails a bit, and push the drivers side up a bit. Spent an hour or so walking between the busses checking measurements, and pushing stuff till I was happy with where I had the new d pillar positioned. Discovered at some point that this bus came with a later, shorter engine lid, and having those measurements mixed into my notes was causing confusion. Ahhhhhhh
Measure 500 times, cut once..

I welded the d pillar at the splice up top, but only tacked the bottom, till I'm sure everything is where it needs to be. Then I shoved it all together to see if it looked like a bus

And it does, but all of the seams are going to need tweaking to look good.
The side matched up nicely, just needs a little work to match up perfectly with the wheel well

I'm even thinking at this point it would be ok to let my wife see it, as it doesn't look so hopeless as before. When I brought it home I was worried that I'd have to live in it if she found out..

Next goal is to have it welded up by the end of the weekend. We'll see
SD

[esde]

Two steps forward, one step back. Thankfully I have the other 65 right there while doing this rear metal to use as a reference.
I was sitting staring at it, and something didn't look right, so I broke out the tape measure again, and started checking stuff, again. In the end,
-part of the left side was still pushed in a bit
-the passenger side frame rail was bent down a bit at the end
-the drivers side rear wall, where the vents are was pushed into the bus about 3/8"
-I needed to raise the drivers rear corner by 3/16" for it to fit better
- and the biggest blunder, I had set the reap luggage tray where it seemed like it fit best, and some of the spot welds even lined up with the welds from the removed panels. In this instance though, I need the edge that is to the rear of the bus to be about 1/4" farther back.
So, I took it all back apart, except for the rear luggage floor, as that thing is in with a bazillion welds. I pushed out the drivers corner, and raised it, and it fits better. Had the corner on and off five times today till I was happy enough, or sick of it. Here you can see the hinge carrier can't go up where it needs to, as the lip it fits under is too far forward. My fix for this is going to be to cut the lip off, and make it wider, so the rear edge sticks back the correct amount.

I raised the driver side corner, to make the opening for the rear hatch the correct height. Now the lower front edge isn't lined up correctly with the original wheel well.

Given smashed 50 year old bus parts, and reproduction sheet metal, who knows where the line is supposed to be. I'm going to trim and weld the pieces so they meet as designed..
On top of that, something wasn't adding up, and it turns out my hinge carrier is an 1/8" shorter than the one on the other 65. Not side to side, but the actual height from under the upper hatch, to the lower hinge mount. Considering everything else I'm doing to make this look correct, I suppose it hardly matters though..
Here is as it sits now. One side has a flat maypop, so it's sitting crooked, and I am not going to fix the frame rail and apron alignment until I have a decklid to mount.

So. Just more of the same and I'll get it there.

[esde]

Two steps forward, one step back. Thankfully I have the other 65 right there while doing this rear metal to use as a reference.
I was sitting staring at it, and something didn't look right, so I broke out the tape measure again, and started checking stuff, again. In the end,
-part of the left side was still pushed in a bit
-the passenger side frame rail was bent down a bit at the end
-the drivers side rear wall, where the vents are was pushed into the bus about 3/8"
-I needed to raise the drivers rear corner by 3/16" for it to fit better
- and the biggest blunder, I had set the reap luggage tray where it seemed like it fit best, and some of the spot welds even lined up with the welds from the removed panels. In this instance though, I need the edge that is to the rear of the bus to be about 1/4" farther back.
So, I took it all back apart, except for the rear luggage floor, as that thing is in with a bazillion welds. I pushed out the drivers corner, and raised it, and it fits better. Had the corner on and off five times today till I was happy enough, or sick of it. Here you can see the hinge carrier can't go up where it needs to, as the lip it fits under is too far forward. My fix for this is going to be to cut the lip off, and make it wider, so the rear edge sticks back the correct amount.

I raised the driver side corner, to make the opening for the rear hatch the correct height. Now the lower front edge isn't lined up correctly with the original wheel well.

Given smashed 50 year old bus parts, and reproduction sheet metal, who knows where the line is supposed to be. I'm going to trim and weld the pieces so they meet as designed..
On top of that, something wasn't adding up, and it turns out my hinge carrier is an 1/8" shorter than the one on the other 65. Not side to side, but the actual height from under the upper hatch, to the lower hinge mount. Considering everything else I'm doing to make this look correct, I suppose it hardly matters though..
Here is as it sits now. One side has a flat maypop, so it's sitting crooked, and I am not going to fix the frame rail and apron alignment until I have a decklid to mount.

So. Just more of the same and I'll get it there.

[esde]

finally progress
Spent an hour or so trimming and fitting the hinge carrier better. After it fit pretty well, I used the port power to push it up and in line with the corners. After I had that level it was a matter of making the carrier meet the luggage floor lip. The solution to that was finding a bigger hammer, and trimming a hair off of the hinge carrier. It fits pretty well now

You can see above that I haven't done a thing about the hatch alignment, and one of the hinges is bent.

And then did a bit of work to make the corner meet the wheel well.

Next to finish the odds and ends on the driver side, and get that into primer.
Also, get the gas tank painted and back in, as the engine is ready.
SD

[brettsvw]

Very nice.
_________________
.







My 59 kombi build.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=635003&highlight=

My buggy build.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=558601&highlight=

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289807

[Schwing]

Seth, wow looks great! Patience got you there.
That's a lesson to all of us fitting up these panels, that is some major surgery. Nice execution, its important to stay positive, but its also important to be honest with yourself if it doesn't look right. Great job dude, hopefully I run into you at Dubs n Shrubs this weekend.
_________________
Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=

Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[Schwing]

Did you test fit an engine lid yet? Or are you just copying measurements from the other bus? One thing I noticed while just doing corners is to watch that engine lid gap, it might need some tweaks when you get a lid on there.
_________________
Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=

Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[esde]

[esde]

slowly checking stuff off of my to do list:
Hauled the long block up from my basement assembly bench and over to the shop. Then I was able to hang the exhaust, and fit the shroud. Last engine I built was fully dressed and barely fit up the stairs, DOH!

1641 with a cam, mild head porting, doghouse cooler, full flow, and I modified a 30pict-1 for the hi speed jet. Hope it does ok..
Got the battery trays welded, just need to spray some epoxy in the engine bay, and I can run the wiring.

Also, sandblasted the gas tank, and sprayed it with some black epoxy. Need to find the new screen sock, and it's ready to go
Little stuff, like the vertical supports for the luggage floor, that had been cut when I swapped in the new floor.

More later.
SD

[esde]

Went out to the first dubs in the shrubs show in Trenton, NJ today. Saw some nice cars and met some great people, and gathered some more bits and pieces I need for the 65. Grabbed an engine lid, that needs some work but will do, and a 5 pound box of assorted small parts, clips, nuts, bolts, trim clips, etc..
Still inspired I unpacked my car from the trailer and shot the engine bay with some epoxy primer

SD

[mandraks]

nice work
_________________
regards

Uli

----------------------------------------
'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

[Undies]

I have it all to do on a '59 11 window without half of your talent.. I'm in Australia so at least I won't have to worry about Pneumonia! Good on ya mate awesome job. Undies.

[Schwing]

Nice! And funny our Beetles were parked so close to each other at the last show without having met before. That looks so good with the epoxy primer, I should consider doing the same when my engine bay is done, just for motivation.

What type of epoxy primer are you using? Or should I just buy the brand that will match my final coat?
_________________
Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=

Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[esde]

I'm using shop line, which is is PPG's economy line paint, so VW grade. The grey is close to the factory grey, so I'll leave it underneath. If you use it where you intend to topcoat, there's a seven day window to recoat with 2k primer. If you miss that, you have to sand the epoxy for a good bond, which sucks, and eats sand paper like a hog. For inside blind panels, or underneath though, it is the shit.
Good to meet you and your family, looks like you all had a great weekend.
SD

[FNGRUVN]

[esde]

[esde]

Major milestone this evening, and I almost didn't realize it. I am completely out of metal repair panels to weld into this pig! The green metal, and autocraft parts are over with, at least for this bus. There is some patching here and there yet, mostly on the cargo doors, but nothing major.
This eve I tackled the drivers front corner. It had been neglected, as it was closest to the wall for a long time. The outrigger, jack point, and b pillar closeout panel had not been installed. Plus, the rear of the dogleg, where it meets the rocker had a mean crease full of bondo. First operation, outrigger and jack point. Straight forward at this point: punch holes for rosette welds, clean primer off, and treat with weld through primer. Fit, clamp, weld

Then I ground out the old filler, and hammered out the crease. Used a torch and wet rag to shrink out the worst of the high spots. After that, weld in the close out panel for the b pillar, and weld the edge of the dogleg to the leading edge of the rocker

And then a thin skim of filler. I did work it down with a sure-form while it was still soft, it is going to look fine. The lower 3" of the wheel well edge is not crooked like it appears in the pic, must be the angle.

I've got to shorten two brake lines, and get the clutch shaft bushings in, and then maybe I'll be able to get the engine in..
Oh, still have the gas pedal assembly to weld in. I'm close, engine will be in shortly..

[esde]

As ever, two steps forward, one back. Note to any who use this thread for guidance: check your new clutch cable guide tube, to be sure the cable will fit after you make the needed bends. Probably not a bad idea to check before you weld it in 5 places, and install the trans. The tube that I used is a bit thicker wall than stock, and as a result, the cable end will not fit through a tight radius bend. It doesn't look too tight:

but it is.
I tried a few things, using the port power as a tubing bender to relax the bend. But it only succeeded in wasting time and pinching fingers. In the end, I chopped the end out, and made a new section. Carefully welded it into place, and that is done.

on the bright side, at least working under this bus there isn't any rust or grease
Also: got the last wheel well, drivers front in epoxy, and prepped the drivers side for 2K primer. It needs more body work, but being bare in my shop with the recent humidity isn't helping anything. Plus it'll just loo better.
SD

[esde]

Not much to show, as I've been farting around with the wiring harness, steering, getting the brakes adjusted, making the parking brake cable spacers, all the fun little jobs. Rather than push it out of the shop to turn it around (to work on the cargo doors), I've decided it has to drive out under it's own power.

First time the maushaus has had an engine in for 20 years. The uh-oh-9 distributor is just holding the drive down; I've picked up a 205T that should work well with the 30pict-1. Need to get some heat sleeve for the oil lines and an air filter too. But soon, very soon I'll fire it up.