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Pedal assembly help
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oc63rag
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike. It didn't look right to me but it worked.
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medrepairs
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:19 pm    Post subject: Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly Reply with quote

Today I removed the cluster from my '69 Beetle and cleaned it up. The reason for the removal was two fold. First, the clutch arm is cracked at the drift pin site and needs welded. Secondly I wanted to assure myself the cable shaft hook was in good condition. It was fine. Now to the dis-assembly. Nothing.. Frozen... I am going to PB Blast soak it this week and set it in the vise and try again. Yes I removed the circlip on the clutch pedal shaft. Anyone else have problems with these being so corroded? I thought the assembly would be able to be driven out with some persuasion but no go. Thoughts. Am I missing something here? Rolling Eyes

Thanks
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 1974, so I'm thinking my pedal assembly is different than yours. But since you're having a problem, is it possible that you have a clutch-arm pin that hasn't been removed?

When I removed this pin, the clutch shaft came out easily, and the rest just came apart.

Tim
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medrepairs
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:45 pm    Post subject: Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly Reply with quote

Got it unstuck. The clutch pedal is fractured at the base. It has a crack running about 3/4 of an inch around the cylinder and up the pedal slightly. It caused the cylinder to deform enough to bind the clutch pin. I had to drive it out by clamping it in a vise and using a 3/8"drift pin and a ball peen hammer. Cleaned all pieces up. De-greased everything, test fit all of it and took it back apart. Now to weld the broken area and powder coat each piece before reassembly with a new clutch cable.

Thanks for the response and help.
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blienemann
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to bring up an older thread but I'm having trouble with the brake pedal orientation. The spring is in the correct orientation but the pedal is pulled so far forward that it is unusable. It also pulls the MC push rod almost out of the rubber boot.

What is missing or incorrect?
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blienemann
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are pics:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Cusser
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a stop plate on the pan? Should be.

OK, my 2 cents: fix that pedal assembly while you have it out/loose. Your clutch cable isn't on the hook unless you've cable-tied it and haven't connected the rear part to the release bearing arm with the wingnut.

1. That long screw used as a pivot for the gas pedal is all wrong !!!

2. It looks like the lever that has the roller for the gas pedal is bent, needs to be bent back into alignment.

3. Was the pedal assembly working and you removed it, or is this a to-be-put-together VW?
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blienemann
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I am still trying to mock a few things up as this is a long term project hoping to get on the road soon.

Unfortunately there wasn't any floorpan under the pedal cluster when it came apart.

I think I figured it all out. Since there was no floorpan there I just made a patch panel which doesn't have the stop plate. I kept thinking about it all wrong and thought that had something to do with the return spring until I realized I was an idiot.

I will tidy up the other bits for the cluster before getting too far into it. The pedal pin had disintegrated and the closest thing I had was that screw for the time being and the clutch cable isn't connected/adjusted yet.
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hopkin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I happen to have removed my pedal assembly a week ago and took this picture before starting. You can see the stop plate for the brake pedal.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There are differences in the Master Cylinder push rod lengths as well, for example:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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blienemann
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pic hopkin! Another possible dumb question. Does that stop plate also act as the stop for the clutch pedal so it doesn't constantly hit the floor and lose the cable? Or is there something else?

It looks like it is far enough over to catch the clutch pedal but thought that would case the clutch pedal to be a little higher than the brake pedal. Has been a long time since I drove in a beetle to remember how they were oriented.
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70 Deluxe Bus - Project

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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a cable tie or a bread bag twist tie to hold the clutch cable end on the hook while you install the pedals. Yes, the stop plate is for clutch pedal too, but really the wingnut on the rear of the cable is what holds it in place.

I haven't been "lucky enough" to try the cable tie trick others have used here, I have previously always just barely started the wingnut on, then hooked the pedal hook into the clutch cable end inside the tunnel, and either used my left shoulder or a brick to keep the clutch pedal up - and therefore cable attached - while I installed the pedal assembly.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297
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hopkin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a bracket near the top of the clutch pedal that touches the carpet when fully depressed. Do the older Beetles have that bracket? (I have a '96 Mexican Beetle).

I was easily able to hook the clutch cable back on and feed it through the tube without it dropping off (no wire ties, etc). Maybe I got lucky!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
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1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)
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blienemann
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got it all sorted out today. Had to make a small stop bracket that caught both the brake and clutch pedals since my first one just hit the brake pedal and I kept letting the clutch cable drop to the floor (and it then dropping the clutch cable).

I didn't use a zip tie or anything but was using the same approach as Cusser above.

Also my clutch pedal looks the same as yours Hopkin. Thanks for the pictures and help from both of you. That is another thing off the long, but shortening list to get it back on the road.
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Current:
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70 Deluxe Bus - Project

"Aim for the sky and you'll reach the ceiling. Aim for the ceiling and you'll stay on the floor." Bill Shankly
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wantedabiggergarage
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hopkin wrote:
I have a bracket near the top of the clutch pedal that touches the carpet when fully depressed. Do the older Beetles have that bracket? (I have a '96 Mexican Beetle).

I was easily able to hook the clutch cable back on and feed it through the tube without it dropping off (no wire ties, etc). Maybe I got lucky!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My 71 has that, but I don't see it or the rubber, available anywhere. I picked up another pedal assembly from the swap, for that, and the pedal cluster assembly bracket, which is in better shape then the one I was rebuilding. I want to get a new setup together, with the bigfoot pedal and gas pedal upgrades, and then use the other parts to rebuild the factory one.
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