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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3781 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain.... _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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Ian Samba Moderator
Joined: August 28, 2002 Posts: 4930 Location: 713
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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my59 wrote: |
The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain.... |
That's a "last ditch" oil drain plug. Sold at FLAPS. _________________ All your Buses are belong to us.
Love and good roads!
IN LOVING MEMORY OF ROB CRESS 1968-2012 |
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Amskeptic Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2002 Posts: 8568 Location: All Across The Country
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:17 am Post subject: |
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raygreenwood wrote: |
I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray |
Ray,
Not critical that the insert be flush with the bottom of the inside of the case. Preferred, yes, but not critical. The drain plug is a courtesy to make the removal of the strainer at "true bottom of case" less messy . . . _________________ www.itinerant-air-cooled.com |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Amskeptic wrote: |
raygreenwood wrote: |
I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray |
Ray,
Not critical that the insert be flush with the bottom of the inside of the case. Preferred, yes, but not critical. The drain plug is a courtesy to make the removal of the strainer at "true bottom of case" less messy . . . |
Oh I fully agree. I actually rarely do an oil change without removing and cleaning the strainer..... in the cautious belief that the one time you dont look in it....will be the time when the mystery metal chunk..... that was your one and only early warning to stop and correct....shows up!
I make this practice dead simple and leak free by adhering the gaskets to each side of the strainer itself (no RTV on the case or plate) with high temp, oily location RTV....like Ultra copper or ultra black. Put it on thin and clean, and clamp the assembly together loosely overnight. Oil the gaskets in the morning and tighten it up.
I typically get about 40-50k miles out of this before having to change the gaskets. It never leaks.
I just suggested to keep the thread flush....in case the owner did not have my ethic . Ray |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3781 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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Ian wrote: |
my59 wrote: |
The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain.... |
That's a "last ditch" oil drain plug. Sold at FLAPS. |
Thanks for the info. Naturally when I had the case apart for the rebuild I forgot about it...till it was all back together and in the bus. _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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Ian Samba Moderator
Joined: August 28, 2002 Posts: 4930 Location: 713
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Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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my59 wrote: |
Ian wrote: |
my59 wrote: |
The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain.... |
That's a "last ditch" oil drain plug. Sold at FLAPS. |
Thanks for the info. Naturally when I had the case apart for the rebuild I forgot about it...till it was all back together and in the bus. |
Been there done that. At least Type 4's have an actual oil filter and the strainer. _________________ All your Buses are belong to us.
Love and good roads!
IN LOVING MEMORY OF ROB CRESS 1968-2012 |
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Manfreds78bay Samba Member
Joined: February 27, 2009 Posts: 754 Location: PNW
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:57 am Post subject: |
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Okay so finally had a chance to install the kit this weekend.
The kit was 113$ on Amazon with free shipping.
The kit part number is: 1415.
The time insert has not leaked since install. I put about 100 miles on her this weekend. I'll let you know if any issues come up. _________________ 1978 2.0L FI Campmobile
1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 3777 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:18 am Post subject: |
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raygreenwood wrote: |
Amskeptic wrote: |
raygreenwood wrote: |
I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray |
Ray,
Not critical that the insert be flush with the bottom of the inside of the case. Preferred, yes, but not critical. The drain plug is a courtesy to make the removal of the strainer at "true bottom of case" less messy . . . |
Oh I fully agree. I actually rarely do an oil change without removing and cleaning the strainer..... in the cautious belief that the one time you dont look in it....will be the time when the mystery metal chunk..... that was your one and only early warning to stop and correct....shows up!
I make this practice dead simple and leak free by adhering the gaskets to each side of the strainer itself (no RTV on the case or plate) with high temp, oily location RTV....like Ultra copper or ultra black. Put it on thin and clean, and clamp the assembly together loosely overnight. Oil the gaskets in the morning and tighten it up.
I typically get about 40-50k miles out of this before having to change the gaskets. It never leaks.
I just suggested to keep the thread flush....in case the owner did not have my ethic . Ray |
I rarely ever pull the strainer (after first 300 miles). In over 35+ years there have probably been very very few times that I've ever found anything (worrisome) in the strainer plate. And of those very very few times (able to count on 1 hand) the engine (T-4) was already close to or north of 100K.
When do I pull the plate?
1. After initial cam break in (~20 mins)
2. After first 300 miles
3. Drive and enjoy for many miles.
4. Perhaps a pull of the strainer after 80+K miles.
Prior to my last rebuild I pulled the strainer plate at ~ 113K and found a few very small pieces of what I suspected were cam bearing. I was already in the planning stage of my next build and had it apart within 6 - 8 mos. Once apart I confirmed that it was indeed cam bearing material. But I also confirmed that I very likely could have gotten another 40 - 50K out of it before I started to have any oil pressure issue. _________________ 1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Thu May 07, 2015 12:04 pm Post subject: Type IV (4) drain plug |
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It seems there where two choices. These all are available new. They where used in various VW models. So VW dealer or Aftermarket will have them.
M12X1.5 prt# 171 941 550
M14X1.5 prt# N 029 701 2 or prt# N 902 889 01
Quote: German Supply
" generally later engines with fuel injection - use a 12mm drain plug, some use a 14mm plug"
12mm plug
14mm plug
#79 Oil Drain Plug
Thanks to mayor ratwell.
Thanks to jerseylooker.
Don't forget to get a few sealing washers while you are at it.
C12X18 prt# N 013 805 1
C14X20 prt# N 013 815 6
Hope it helps
Tcash |
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jtauxe Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 5778 Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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I have an oil drain plug question, so I'll just continue in this thread.
I am evaluating a used engine in a 1974 Westy -- seems like the original CB engine, with dual Solex carbs and all. So, I adjusted the valves, and drained the oil, cleaned the screen, replaced oil filter yada yada yada...
But the drain plug that is in there is not stock. It look more like a plug fitting, with a square head. I am a bit concerned that whatever PO did this may have used some 'merican threaded thing, instead of metric, but it does seem to be really close to
M16 1.50-mm thread pitch.
Was this ever a standard size for drain plugs? I do not see it mentioned in the above discussions.
Even if it is not an original size, I expect I can make it work. I can get an M16-1.50 tap and clean up the threads, I suppose.
But where, or where to find a drain plug for it? I have spent a good bit of time searching for an appropriate bolt, to no avail. A simple hex-head bolt, M16x1.50, maybe 12 mm long. And ideas on where to find such a beast aside from going down to the Big City 2 hours away to the bolt and screw warehouse?
Last resort: Put the square-head plug back in. Is teflon tape or oil-friendly thread sealant advised? _________________ John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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You may have a 3/8" tapered pipe plug installed in place of the original plug. If the threads are decent it will likely work just fine. Many makes used tapered pipe plugs for the drain and fill plugs in transmissions and rear axles. Some small engine use tapered pipe plugs, and I suspect some automotive engines do as well, just can't think of one at present. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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