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Type IV Oil Drain Plug
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my59
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain....
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Ian
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my59 wrote:
The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain....


That's a "last ditch" oil drain plug. Sold at FLAPS.
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray


Ray,

Not critical that the insert be flush with the bottom of the inside of the case. Preferred, yes, but not critical. The drain plug is a courtesy to make the removal of the strainer at "true bottom of case" less messy . . . Very Happy
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray


Ray,

Not critical that the insert be flush with the bottom of the inside of the case. Preferred, yes, but not critical. The drain plug is a courtesy to make the removal of the strainer at "true bottom of case" less messy . . . Very Happy


Oh I fully agree. I actually rarely do an oil change without removing and cleaning the strainer..... in the cautious belief that the one time you dont look in it....will be the time when the mystery metal chunk..... that was your one and only early warning to stop and correct....shows up!

I make this practice dead simple and leak free by adhering the gaskets to each side of the strainer itself (no RTV on the case or plate) with high temp, oily location RTV....like Ultra copper or ultra black. Put it on thin and clean, and clamp the assembly together loosely overnight. Oil the gaskets in the morning and tighten it up.

I typically get about 40-50k miles out of this before having to change the gaskets. It never leaks.

I just suggested to keep the thread flush....in case the owner did not have my ethic Wink . Ray
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my59
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian wrote:
my59 wrote:
The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain....


That's a "last ditch" oil drain plug. Sold at FLAPS.


Thanks for the info. Naturally when I had the case apart for the rebuild I forgot about it...till it was all back together and in the bus.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.
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Ian
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my59 wrote:
Ian wrote:
my59 wrote:
The threads on my case are buggered and some PO solution was to drill and tap the bolt for another bolt of about half the diameter of the original one. It takes a while for the oil to drain....


That's a "last ditch" oil drain plug. Sold at FLAPS.


Thanks for the info. Naturally when I had the case apart for the rebuild I forgot about it...till it was all back together and in the bus.


Been there done that. At least Type 4's have an actual oil filter and the strainer.
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay so finally had a chance to install the kit this weekend.

The kit was 113$ on Amazon with free shipping.

The kit part number is: 1415.

The time insert has not leaked since install. I put about 100 miles on her this weekend. I'll let you know if any issues come up.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:05 pm    Post subject: Type IV (4) drain plug thread repair Reply with quote

To link to this post
Code:
[url=https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7643214#7643214]Type IV (4) drain plug thread repair[/url]


Thank you for following up.
TIME-SERT M14 X 1.50 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1415
TIMESERT ® PROFESSIONAL THREAD REPAIR KITS METRIC SIZES


Link


Link


Tcash


Last edited by Tcash on Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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udidwht
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
Amskeptic wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray


Ray,

Not critical that the insert be flush with the bottom of the inside of the case. Preferred, yes, but not critical. The drain plug is a courtesy to make the removal of the strainer at "true bottom of case" less messy . . . Very Happy


Oh I fully agree. I actually rarely do an oil change without removing and cleaning the strainer..... in the cautious belief that the one time you dont look in it....will be the time when the mystery metal chunk..... that was your one and only early warning to stop and correct....shows up!

I make this practice dead simple and leak free by adhering the gaskets to each side of the strainer itself (no RTV on the case or plate) with high temp, oily location RTV....like Ultra copper or ultra black. Put it on thin and clean, and clamp the assembly together loosely overnight. Oil the gaskets in the morning and tighten it up.

I typically get about 40-50k miles out of this before having to change the gaskets. It never leaks.

I just suggested to keep the thread flush....in case the owner did not have my ethic Wink . Ray



I rarely ever pull the strainer (after first 300 miles). In over 35+ years there have probably been very very few times that I've ever found anything (worrisome) in the strainer plate. And of those very very few times (able to count on 1 hand) the engine (T-4) was already close to or north of 100K.

When do I pull the plate?

1. After initial cam break in (~20 mins)

2. After first 300 miles

3. Drive and enjoy for many miles.

4. Perhaps a pull of the strainer after 80+K miles.

Prior to my last rebuild I pulled the strainer plate at ~ 113K and found a few very small pieces of what I suspected were cam bearing. I was already in the planning stage of my next build and had it apart within 6 - 8 mos. Once apart I confirmed that it was indeed cam bearing material. But I also confirmed that I very likely could have gotten another 40 - 50K out of it before I started to have any oil pressure issue.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Type IV (4) drain plug Reply with quote

It seems there where two choices. These all are available new. They where used in various VW models. So VW dealer or Aftermarket will have them.
M12X1.5 prt# 171 941 550
M14X1.5 prt# N 029 701 2 or prt# N 902 889 01

Quote: German Supply
" generally later engines with fuel injection - use a 12mm drain plug, some use a 14mm plug"
12mm plug
14mm plug

#79 Oil Drain Plug
Thanks to mayor ratwell.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thanks to jerseylooker.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Don't forget to get a few sealing washers while you are at it.
C12X18 prt# N 013 805 1
C14X20 prt# N 013 815 6

Hope it helps
Tcash
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an oil drain plug question, so I'll just continue in this thread.

I am evaluating a used engine in a 1974 Westy -- seems like the original CB engine, with dual Solex carbs and all. So, I adjusted the valves, and drained the oil, cleaned the screen, replaced oil filter yada yada yada...

But the drain plug that is in there is not stock. It look more like a plug fitting, with a square head. I am a bit concerned that whatever PO did this may have used some 'merican threaded thing, instead of metric, but it does seem to be really close to
M16 1.50-mm thread pitch.

Was this ever a standard size for drain plugs? I do not see it mentioned in the above discussions.

Even if it is not an original size, I expect I can make it work. I can get an M16-1.50 tap and clean up the threads, I suppose.

But where, or where to find a drain plug for it? I have spent a good bit of time searching for an appropriate bolt, to no avail. A simple hex-head bolt, M16x1.50, maybe 12 mm long. And ideas on where to find such a beast aside from going down to the Big City 2 hours away to the bolt and screw warehouse?

Last resort: Put the square-head plug back in. Is teflon tape or oil-friendly thread sealant advised?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may have a 3/8" tapered pipe plug installed in place of the original plug. If the threads are decent it will likely work just fine. Many makes used tapered pipe plugs for the drain and fill plugs in transmissions and rear axles. Some small engine use tapered pipe plugs, and I suspect some automotive engines do as well, just can't think of one at present.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aircooled Time-Sert Tool Rental, 14 x 1.5mm
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